HMS Victory by JPett - Corel - 1:98

[mtaylor]

I'm with John... nice looking planking.  I think once you sand out the clinkering on the first layer, you'll be ok.  Nigel has probably the best solution for the second layer.

[Sjors]

Very nice JP !

 

You see, you can handle it !

 

Sjors

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Thx for the likes and comments 

 

Neptune: Welcome aboard; I see that you have build this kit. Your company and comments are most appreciated 

 

Nigel: Thank you. I do agree that spiling would actually be much easier here but I have this whole OOB thing going on for this build. I am contemplating gluing two of the kit supplied pieces of planking together and then spiling that. On a side note I have just found the kit supplied wheel. That is going to be a big problem. 

 

Mark: I am hell bent on correcting the kinkering and not sanding it out. 

 

Sjors: Always a pleasure. I am a persistent "bass turd". That is my real strength. I am still working on the "skill" thing. 

 

Back to the build 

 

I am posting this for anyone who might be using my log as some sort of reference for their build.

 

There seems to be a point where the planks need to transition around what I would call the hip of the stern. (We could talk jeans here).  I am getting a lot of kinkering: More then what would be safe to sand out even if I were to sand ..

 

What I have found is that after forming and installing these planks individually that I can come back to them and reform them again but now as a group.

 

First I clamp a wet paper towel to the area and let that sit for 15 to 20 minutes. I re-wet the towel, then nuke the area with my heat gun. When I start to smell glue I start making adjustments. By only wetting and heating certain areas and leaving others bonded I have found that I can now form sections instead of just planks to create a smoother surface.  I did not take any "before" images but if you look at my last post, the image of the stern shows the start of the klinkering (its out of focus) which got really bad on the final plank for this belt.  . 

 

The image shows how I used a piece of kit wood to "persuade" these planks as a group. This set up was nuked with the heat gun. The wood traverses four planks which all had some klinkering to a degree. It took multiple sessions applying pressure and heat in different areas to get this wood to lie as it does in the final image 

 

 

 

[mtdoramike]

Beautiful planking job.

[dragzz]

much better then mine keep up the great work

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Mike: Thx, I am hoping this will all be gone soon except the experience I gain from it 

 

Dragzz: Please delete some messages, your mailbox is full  

 

Back to the build 

 

Just posting this so I don't forget it. I use my log as a notebook of sorts 

 

While waiting for a plank to soak I decided to address a small gap in the bow planking. It really was not necessary but more of an experiment.  I really should have been doing treenails. Originally my plan for these was to use the sawdust and PVA trick when I did my final sanding

 

They are just little 1/32 by 3/32 scraps sanded into a wedge. Flat tree nails. If I have another opportunity to try this I think I might use a wider piece and put it so the grain follows the planks. The edge grain looks a little dark to do this on any final planking. I have not sanded it yet and it is still wet too. I just snipped them off with my plastic sprue cutters 

Edited October 24, 2014 by JPett

[GuntherMT]

That's an interesting idea.  I think it might be very viable to make a long thin wedge and work it in parallel to the grain like you suggest.

[dragzz]

hello jpett   my mail is all clear now  keep up the great work that u are doing

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Brian: I did a grain matched wedge. They might work too good. The seam between the planks has almost completely disappeared. It looks a little off, the lack of any seam kind of highlights it. I should be able to cut a new one with the Xacto but it does work. 

 

Lawrence: Thx: did you change your signature 

 

Dragzz: Thx 

 

 

I am just posting this link as it is very helpful. 

 

http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/victori/index.htm

 

The images of the stern are very good. There are not many of them on the web. I also really like the color scheme. I might like it too much  

 

Thx to Pronto for directing me to this site 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5399-mordaunt-1681-by-nmbrook-euromodels-160-beyond-bashed/?p=252941

 

I also found Danny Vadas's Vic 

 

http://www.shipsofscale.com/gallery/danny/victory/index.html

Edited October 27, 2014 by JPett

[dragzz]

tys a helpfull link tys

[scott larkins]

That is some serious bending of the plands there at the bow.  Better you than me man. LOL

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

This should be my last post as a Commander

 

Dragzz: That build is amazing 

 

Scott: It's the edge bending 

 

Lawrence: It just looked odd but its yours to do as you please. The wedges are coming in quite handy on this first planking. Not sure if they will be good on the second 

 

Back to the build 

 

Well planking this beast is sure turning out to be a learning experience. I still can not seem to get my head around belts; that and the edge bending is really getting a little out of hand.

 

I have completed the port belt and decided to do the Garboard belt next. My hope is that once complete I will be able to better plan the next two belts. I am winging the plank widths. I am going with "they need to taper just before the stern and then flare" as my last model did. So far it looks like I am close and any errors should only cause minor problems. Fingers crossed.

 

The edge bending has me concerned on all three belts. I am hoping the thinner walnut will be a little more receptive to the curves. The drop plank on the port side had to be done three times. I now have some "franken planks" as a result of my changes. I normally would have just replaced the complete plank but do not know how much extra wood Corel has included. Currently my waste is less then one strip. Possible only a half. 

 

In the stern my planks do not line up on both sides and I will have to pay better attention to this with the walnut. I am debating whether to make a correction on this or not. On the bow I had to pull back my drop plank due to all my mistakes and there were quite a few. I was happy with the way it turned out until I saw this picture. I see I have one more issue to address. I am hoping all this experience will only help me on the final planking. Trust me when i say the thought of just slapping all these  on and then throwing a sanding party; then inviting some filler is entertained quite frequently in the shipyard.

 

The bow end of the garboard plank was much easier then I thought. I just terminated it at bulkhead 2. Any further and it was curving up which I was told is something this plank should never do. I have some doubts as to how much and how I tapered the following planks as this led to considerable edge bending to get compliance. I went slightly wider on the last plank  to hopefully reduce it for the ones that follow. If I were to do this again I would put a filler here. 

 

In the stern getting the planks to conform and contact the plywood keel was not so easy. I found that nuking small pieces of paper towel in a shallow dish of  water and then clamping them to the wood very helpful. Getting the wood to make full contact with the plywood keel took no less then five sessions.. Because I believe I will be sanding most of this all the way back down in some areas I felt full contact necessary. Its just which area???, that is why it all needs to be put down. Sanding here, fitting the walnut and the keel post are one of my biggest concerns with this project. I also pulled up the garboard strake where it met the keel post. The plans do not show the planks sweeping up as mine do but I felt that if I matched the plans with this layer I would not be able to with the final one. I did this plank two times before I realized this and then did it another two more times to get this. . I am be big believer in water solvable PVA.  it really is a newbies best friend. 

Edited November 1, 2014 by JPett

[augie]

 "they need to taper just before the stern and then flare" 

 

And here I thought I was the only shipwright to face this phenomenon.  Ah, the joys of planking.

 

Coming along nicely JP.  No filler for you!!!!!

[scott larkins]

LOL,  Nice job on the nuclear, H2O2 and He there, right up my job field.  Never thought I see my work life brought into the ship building world. LOL

[dragzz]

hello jpett   looking good buddy keep up the good work

[Martin W]

Hi there, JPett -- This is a fantastic build, and your narrative of the travails along the way is as interesting and clear as always. 

 

Here's the planking mantra:  "hmm, that looks right . . . it's gotta be right . . . . oh, @#$%&* now I have to pull it off"  Say that 3 times and you just might get the plank to sit right.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[md1400cs]

JPett,

 

Nice!! you are certainly an established master at planking super nice work. I will enjoy following along..

 

Yea you might be slightly "off" those electron microscope pics. show all errors.

 

Michael

Edited November 4, 2014 by md1400cs

[challenger86]

Hi JP!

Great Build so far. I will certainly use your blog as reference while I build mine, thanks!

[challenger86]

Hey JP, quick question (I'm sure I will have many). I'm dry fitting deck #18 and when sitting on ribs 1,2 and 3, it really puts a big bend, did you shave off the tops of those 3 ribs a little to not make it not bend so much at the bow?

[JPett]

Ahoy Robert

 

I have not installed the upper deck. I saw that Dragzz had this same problem. 

 

What I am doing is leaving the upper deck (part 18) off until after I plank most of the hull. Realize you also have to remove the upper section of a few bulkheads for gunports on the lower deck, then install those cannons but only after cutting out the gunports which will require the hull to be planked.  This would be insanely difficult if you follow the instructions by severely reducing your access here with part 18.  ATM I do not see this deck as being anywhere near necessary before planking at least up to the lower gunports either. Not to mention the curve in the bow which may or may not need an adjustment.  I plan to leave the last few rows of my first layer of planks off as i come up to this deck and then decide how to proceed.

 

I have not even planked the lowered deck yet either.I will most likely only start the lower deck once I reach it with the hull planks and finish it only after I planked the hull enough to cut those bulkhead sections out for the gunports. Cutting them out after planking the deck is going to leave a something undesirable. Not to mention what an oops might do to the deck cutting out gunports.  

 

My plan is to have most of the planking done, bulkhead sections removed, lower deck planked, gunports cut, and maybe even all the cannons mounted on the lower deck before I mount part 18. Read some of the Caldercraft  Vic logs. That's what I used to developed this plan.  

 

What I did so far was to plot the line which separates the wales from the hull and am currently planking the first layer of the lower hull. I will then use this line in conjunction with more measurements with the hull in a building jig and the plans to get the sweep of this deck. easy peasy lemon squeezy

 

 

Your build looks great so far BTW 

 

I have not seen this plan done in any other logs or completed it myself so please keep this in mind. Oh and i don't know what i am doing either. 

Edited December 9, 2014 by JPett

[dragzz]

yes jpett mine is installed there nothing that i can do now some of thos ribs might be to tall but iam not to sure on that if post a pic of that would help to see what is going on so we can help 

[challenger86]

jpett / dragzz, thanks for the help. I'll post a pic on my build tomorrow. I enjoy reading both of your builds, it already has helped me a lot...This is my second build, after I completed the Schooner a couple of weeks ago. Learning quite a bit!

[challenger86]

Another question, how far in are you planning to put #31 in between each rib? By the looks of plate 3, they seem to be in about 3-5 mm, from the edge of the rib.

[JPett]

Ahoy Robert

 

"LOL" That my friend is the 69 cent question. As you can see in my earlier post I have them at 8mm in from the bulkhead edge on the cannon center for the 2 lower decks and for reasons unknown, slightly less on the upper gun deck. See plate 5

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=250111

 

My plan is to be close. Close enough that I can space them out with a washer or counter sink them to match. Do not make the mistake I made in mounting them on the same plane as the waterline. This was wrong and I may have to remove or make an adjustment on some.

 

I used my pencil jig to transfer the height of the gunport center from the plans to each bulkhead. Then measured in 8mm on each bulkhead and use a square off my building board to get that line. Here is that post. 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=249707

 

My next attempt involves plotting a line across the bulkheads on the plans using the gunport center and then transferring those measurements to the bulkheads on my kit

Edited December 16, 2014 by JPett

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Augie:  "they need to taper just before the stern and then flare"   Seems we both had it wrong. 

 

Scott: My professor said that science covers it all. Go figure 

 

Lawrence: I agree. Even the admiral liked a good planking.

 

Dragzz: Thanks D 

 

Martin: Got to go with the  @#$%& on this one 

 

Michael: Looks whose talking. If you have some kind of quark based microscope over in your shipyard you need to share it  

 

Robert: I already got you 

 

 

Back to the build: 

 

Well not really. We have been a little preoccupied and work in the shipyard has been a little slow.  Stagnate might be a better word. 

 

I have been studying and while helping another member I found this which is a real game changer. It was in the back of the Corel catalog included with the kit 

 

I also solved the riddle of the upper stern post. The entire keel is covered with planking (thx Mark). I believe this would also include the rear of the keel where the ply is exposed. This will add 2mm here and should be just fine for me.  

 

The little bulb is glowing. Time to get to work   

Edited December 23, 2014 by JPett

[patrickmil]

Just catching up on your build log JP. The planking is looking great!

[the learner]

Oh well!