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Cutty Sark by SpencerC - Artesania Latina - 1/87


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Before i start i wanted to let you know my "e" key sticks so im sorry if my spelling is a bit off.

 

So, i told myself i would never do a kit build, i dont consider them to be true ship modeling. Scratch all the way. HOWVER, i could not pass up a $50 BRAND NEW 40 inch long latina cutty sark POB model!! This was probably the best craigslist deal i have ever found. I looked it up and these are 450~ new. It is ten years old (not the 40 yar old model i thought it was) but in great condition for the price. The awkward thing is, I am also doing a scratch built clipper ship from the same era, the Ariel tea clipper. And that project is my baby so i cannot turn my back on that now that i have a kit of almost the same model...

 

There was, however, a warped/bent bulkhead and the false keel was slightly bent as well. verything else was fine. So i clamp down the bulkhead and douse it in CA, and put the keel in my home made keel straightener/holder which works EXTREMELY well for just being two perfectly straight pieces of wood glued parellel to each other on a plywood board. Let them sit over night. The next day (today) after work I check them and the keel is completely straight and the bulkhead is about 85% straight, much btter than what it was.

 

After perusing through the box i notice a few things missing. The gold scroll work and the gold lettering for the bow and the stern are gone, as well as the plastic "glass" for th skylights. If anyon knows where i could purchase this in 1/84th scale pleas let me know. everything else seems to be in order.

 

I then proceed to dry fit everything and after a few adjustments find that everything is good to go. i glue the blkheads in with elmers wood glue, and while waiting for that to dry i paint the sides of each bulkhead so i can make sure each is symmtrical while fairing the hull. i then dry fitted the false deck and that is where i am at now besides a tiny bit of fairing of the stern.

 

Any advice or help is greatly appreciated. anything in general i should know about kits. Also is the rigging on this bad boy as complex as it looks? It frightens me.

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As you can see I have layer the first four deck strakes and the first three hull strakes.

 

Deck Strakes- I run the strakes all the way down the deck without doing the brick pattern. I will do that later and show you how I replicate the brick pattern. I also lay a very dark brown thread in between each plank so replicate caulking. I do this with all my ships decks.

 

Hull Planking : I am already seeing some problems in the planking for this ship. The timbers are so fat that even when I soak them in hot water for over Thierry minutes I cannot get then to bend around the stern without cracking. So until I get my hands on a plank bender I am just working on the above deck stuff. Let me know what ya think! :)

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Yeah, here comes another Cutty !!!!

 

Go forward, I`ll watch carefully and with great interest.

 

Planking ... you go well ( for now) ... that was a nightmare for me

 

PS

 

"slots in the keel that are for the masts were slanted for some reason"

 

They have to be slanted !!!!

 

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See you

 

Nenad

Edited by Nenad M

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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To catch the wind on better way and to spread forces of strong winds to hull construction

 

Somewhere ( I dont know where) I read that with CS there was novelty with her mast angle, and that enabled her to get fantastic speed on strong winds. And angles are not the same on each mast ... 

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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Spencer;  Get yourself a set of G. Campbell's plans;  they are indispensable for this ship, whether kit or scratch built.  Also, the book "China Tea Clippers" by the same author (George Campbell) would help in any clipper ship build.  The book is out of print, but I had no problem whatsoever finding a pristine copy on ebay for $15.  I believe you can get the plans from the Cutty Sark's website.  I was fortunate enough to receive them in my 40 year old Billings Boats kit.  (Which is now mostly scratch built).

 

Happy modeling...

 

Bob

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  • 2 weeks later...

This build has been going very slowly unfortunately. However the planking is looking phenomenal. I've gotten used to the extremely thick planking planking strips for the most part, however since they're so thick I actually have to use my Dremel to spile them. Ill post some pics tonight I promise :D

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I am extremely satisfied with the planking I have done on this ship. Through trial an error on my other clipper I believe I have mastered a pretty nice technique. I create a sort of belt at the top where all strakes lay flat and straight. Then when I place the last belt strake I then start from the bottom going towards the top and they start to curve up in a wide U shape towards the belt. Each U gets smaller and smaller and they fit perfectly inside one another until the very last one is just a sliver of a plank. Comments?

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Spencer:  Your build is looking great!  Your technique for planking works well for coppered models, where you can hide this technique;  I did my CS in much the same way;  however, in true shipbuilding, planks would never end in a sliver;  they would pop out and buckle and probably tear the ship apart.   Each plank would be shaped to give the maximum contact with the frames as possible, while following the contours of the ship.  Your copper will cover this part of the planking;  Remember, this is YOUR model, and however you'd like to proceed with it's construction is totally up to you... :D

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Spencer,

 

Regarding the mast 'rake' as it's called, most ships masts had this, not only Cutty Sark.

 

The foremast was normally the most upright, the main had rather more rake, and the mizzen the most of all. The amount of rake varied between ships and periods. In the book of his model of the Cutty Sark, Neapean Longridge gives the amount of rake for the CS as: 86° for the foremast, 85° for the main, and 84° for the mizzen. Incidentally, I believe the reason for rake is as Nenad suggests, rather than for any speed advantage as is often thought, which is probably minimal.

 

I'm not sure that fractional difference would show on a model, but the masts should have some approximation. It looks as though it's a little late to reverse your alterations, but you just might be able to alter the rake by means of slightly enlarging the after side of the holes where the masts pass through the deck, and then filling in the gaps.

 

As a general tip though, make absolutely sure that the kit construction isn't made that way for a reason, before you alter anything.  As Bob suggests, it's a good idea to get a few books on the subject. The book I have 'The Cutty Sark' by Nepean Longridge, is also a good one to have. It's a little dated now, 1975, but he produced a first class model. You might be able to get it reasonably cheaply in a second hand shop or on-line. ;)   

Edited by Stockholm tar

Kester

 

Current builds: Sherbourne (Caldercraft) scale – 1/64th;

 

Statsraad Lehmkuhl (half model) 1/8th" – 1'.

 

Victory Bow Section (Panart/Mantua) scale – 1/78th  (on hold).

 

Previous build: Bluenose ll (Billings) scale – 1/100th.

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Been busy. Got over half the deck framed, the bulwarks glued and painted, glued the stem keel an stern assembly, glued the bowsprit chuck, and painted the ships boats. I'm thinking about "planking" the boats with paper or very thin card. The boat will have a canvas cover over them. Let me know what you think.

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Even I am so far from boats, in my kit I got some ugly plastic stuff. I think I will make them from zero all wooden. we ll see. But, dont listen to me, my ideas are contagious ( ask Bob if you dont believe)

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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Hi Spence-

Your planking alignment with the front stem looks great - and is probably what's intended in the kit. As I've said, in mine, the alignment was nowhere near as close, so I need some major re-work.

 

But, that's how you learn.

 

Great posts - please keep doing so.

 

The SA build of the CS is now very firmly in last place... :huh: 

Regards,

 

Dognut.

 

Currently building - Cutty Sark 1:115- Constructo : First build

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Hi Spence,

Maybe I'm being a bit picky, but I was really not happy with the alignment. Unfortunately the camera (digital piece of c@#p), doesn't allow me to get too close, so I can show the problem in it's reality.

I'm a bit old school with photos, as I learnt on my 35mm film Olympus SLR (still have it).

 

Anyway, to keep on.. (and watching yours and the others with keen interest)

Regards,

 

Dognut.

 

Currently building - Cutty Sark 1:115- Constructo : First build

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i know man my camera does the same thing. i try to get a close up but it turns out all blurry. makes it hard for taking pics of little stuff. it helps if instead of getting up close with the camera you stand back where it focuses and then zooming in. but yeah i grew up w a canon 35mm, i had an olympus at one point though.

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Ok guys a new big update, I prefer to do alot of work and then update as opposed to updating for every little step. Here my progress:

 

1. Planked the deck and put in the forecastle deck

 

I really like the way the deck turned out with the string used as caulking I think that looks amazing. However for some reason the forecastle deck was waaaay too wide for to fit in the bulwarks, so I had to carefully cut some off each side, after being completely certain it was symmetrical I fitted it in there ontop of the counter bulwarks. I plan to do some joggling on the forecastle deck so I added to nibbing strake on either side.

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3.Lastly but surely not least I am now working on the stanchions. I didn't have a soldering iron so I just glued the little rings on the stanchions, but I really hate how it looked, even though you can't really see the glue, it looks like the ring is just stuck on there somehow, it didn't look like it was welded, but once I painted it white, the magic happened! The paint covered the glue which filled the gap for the side of the ring to the pole and it looks JUST like it was welded on there. I am extremely happy with how these turned out so far.

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I also thought i should post a pic of my workspace, I recently cleaned it up a bit and added this really cool thing I found at a garage sale. It this rectangle lazy Susan type thing that is perfect for hobby and crafts. It's perfect for painting things that you don't want to touch with your fingers and end up smudging them and whatnot. I also thought it was funny how my glue bottles went from largest to smallest in the order of; insta-cure (large), medium cure (medium) and lengthy cure (small). Haha I got kind of a kick out of that :P anyways, back to work please let me know what ya think!

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Spencer;  Deck is looking great!  When I installed my forecastle deck, I also installed the center pawl bit and carrick bits just to make sure everything lined up.  I wouldn't worry about nibbing strakes on the forecastle and poop, they only existed on the main deck in the real ship.  However, nibbing is cool, and makes a nice effect nonetheless...  Keep an eye on the camber of the forecastle, another good reason to install the center pawl bit.  Also make sure you have a good solid landing for the bowsprit before permanently placing the forecastle;  I actually shaped my bowsprit before any planking began, and built up a solid area beneath the forecastle deck that I could insert the bowsprit at the proper angle without worries later on.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Bob

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Hi Spencer, second the comment from Rob - good work.

 

Just a little nag - I know it's a bit of a chore, but if you can, maybe, perhaps, possibly post a bit more often? the smal detail steps are what makes our ship..

 

a heartfelt ASSEBLIEF!! (Afrikaans with emphasis - meaning pleeeeese!)

Regards,

 

Dognut.

 

Currently building - Cutty Sark 1:115- Constructo : First build

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Hah okay for sure ill try to post more often. Ok so why doesn't the forecastle have nibbing? Don't they do that so they don't have sharp pointed planks that would possibly splinter off? And also I figured I would just be putting some glue on the end of the bowsprit and pushing it in til it hits the deck under the forecastle, hold it in the position I want and wait until it dries. Would that work or do I really need to remove the forecastle? And ya know that's a good Idea I think I will make the center pawl bit to see if its lined up correctly, right now it's just lightly glued on, I will later have what I call the "second bulwark" ontop of the forecastle so I should make sure before I lock it in when I put that on.

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Spencer;  as far as the nibbing on the forecastle, I rely on G. Campell's plans almost exclusively for my build, which shows an extension of the main rail covering the forcastle nibbing, as well as the poop (or stern quarterdeck).  However, upon researching modern photos of the CS, you can indeed see the nibbing, so I believe it would be a matter of taste, in this case.

 

If you already have the forecastle deck permanently fixed in place, I wouldn't worry about the bowsprit placement.  I decided to shape the end of mine, and provide structural support, (as I did with the mast blocks) so I would have the exact angles right without, (hopefully) any tedious adjustments in the blind spots below the permantly installed decks.

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Got all the "ringed" stanchions in. I expected the rings to fall off once I started popping the stanchions into the holes I drilled but the CA. Held firmly as they popped into place. I used my Dremel to drill these little devets into the wood, I may post a pic of them later, and popped each tinge stanchion in. Every OTHER Stanchion has a ring on it, so now for the in betweeners. I think they turned out really good.

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