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Is this an accurate way to mark the waterline? (Moved by moderator)


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I used this thin string and put it on a specific point at each end where I had marked the LWL on the bow and stern. At each end they are exactly 2 inches high. In the middle however, it is less than 2 inches. I pulled the string as tight as I possibly could without snapping the line, to try and make it completely straight all the way across, but it still looks off and the port and starboard sides look just a little different. So I'm wondering if string is not that accurate for this? Do I have to build a pencil marking jig? Is that my only option?

post-6152-0-06819500-1380911381_thumb.jpg

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Using a pencil jig is about the most accurate way to do it. Make sure your hull is level and you work on a flat, smooth surface. A string, no matter how tight you pull it, will always find the most direct route form point A to point B, unfortunately over a curved surface, it's not necessarily a straight line.

 

Andy

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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I think a pencil marking jig is more accurate and less hassle to make than the string method you describe. All you have to do is cut a piece of wood and tie a pencil to it. Just my 2 cents :)

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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Posts on this site have shown hulls mounted securely on a flat smooth surface and a wandering marker mounted on a block type of device that is ran around the hull by hand, marking as it goes a line that is a uniform vertical distance from the flat surface the hull is mounted on to the line being marked on the hull. 

jud

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Defiantly use a hull marking jig. As mentioned before the string will always be out of whack. You can buy them or simply make your own.

Regards, Scott

 

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

 

Completed builds:

1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli  -  1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli  -  1:54 Adventure, Amati  -  1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL

1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli  -  1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel  -  1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

 

Awaiting construction:

1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL  -  1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

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I level the surface the model sits on, in this case the build table.  This is the base.

 

The waterline is marked at the bow and the stern.  I measured up the sternpost from the heel for the aft mark, and propping the hull so that it was the right height from the base at a certain station, measured up the stem from the base for the forward mark.  In the picture you see a stick under the keel holding the bow up.  I measured from the heel aft, going forward on the plan to where the keel was the height of my stick above the baseline, 3/4" in this case, and simply placed the stick so it's aft side was at this mark on the keel.

The hull is then securely propped so that both marks are the same height from the base.

 

The hull is also leveled side-to-side using a bubble level - that's why the base has to be leveled first.  If your construction was accurate and symmetrical, you should be able to measure from the base to some point up the hull and get the same measurement on either side.

 

You need a block the height of the water line minus half the width of the pencil.  I cut the block to the waterline, put the pencil on it, and measured the distance between the two marks, and cut half that off the block.  Check it and cut it till it's perfect.  If you cut too much, shim it back up with card stock.  Check the pencil at both fore and aft marks.

 

The block has to be large enough to be stable while you move it and for the pencil to rest on it securely.  The pencil needs to be long enough to reach up under the bilges at the quarters without the block bumping the hull.

 

The waterline doesn't have to be struck in one movement.  So long as the hull is secure from movement, the block rests flat on the base,and the pencil lays flat on the block (remember it's usual octagon shape here), it should be perfect no matter where you start.  Note in the pics I actually struck it more than once 'cause I wanted it dark enough to see through the fiberglass that would cover it.

 

It's sounds complicated, but then a detailed explanation of tying a shoe lace would sound complicated too.

 

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Edited by JerryTodd

Click a pic to go to that build log

sig_flags.png stamp_stella.jpg stamp_mac.jpg stamp_pride.jpg stamp_gazela.jpg

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post-512-0-16208500-1380994868_thumb.jpg

 

Another option.

 

 

PROWE

 

If someone says something can't be done, it only means they can't do it.

 

Building:Shipyard - HMS Mercury card madel

 

Completed Builds:

Wood Models; AL Bluenose II 1989, Corel Toulonnaise 1995, Corel Flying Fish 2000, AL Scottish Maid 2005,

Sergal President 2010, Mamoli Beagle 2011, Corel Eagle 2013, Mamoli Constitution Cross-section 2014, Victory Cross-section 1/98 by Corel 2015, Occre San Francisco Cable Car 2018, Model Shipways Armed Long Boat 2021

Card Models

Christmas Train by PaperReplika 2012, Yamaha DSC11 Motorcycle 2013, Canon EOS 5D Mark II 2014, WWII Tiger I Tank by Paper-Replika 2014, Wrebbit Mercedes-Benz 500K Roadster 2014, Central Pacific no. 60 Jupiter card model 2015, Mirage III 1/30 converted to 1/33 card model 2017, TKpapercraft 1912 Mercer 2021

 

 
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Bogey,

 

    I believe that is the method used by the folks in the Southern Hemisphere.    :D 

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans)

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Chuck,

 

Certainly not expensive, and the base (board) the ship is setting on was also used for the planking. I actually found it easier to do the planking with the ship in this position.

There are dowels placed into the base jig that fit into the mast holes in the deck to hold the ship in place. I also used wedges of scrap wood glued to the base jig to level the ship all around.  Without any difficulty I could take the ship off of the base jig and put it back on as needed.

 

It worked very well but I have to admit that standing on my head for extended periods was a bit tedious..

Edited by bogeygolpher

PROWE

 

If someone says something can't be done, it only means they can't do it.

 

Building:Shipyard - HMS Mercury card madel

 

Completed Builds:

Wood Models; AL Bluenose II 1989, Corel Toulonnaise 1995, Corel Flying Fish 2000, AL Scottish Maid 2005,

Sergal President 2010, Mamoli Beagle 2011, Corel Eagle 2013, Mamoli Constitution Cross-section 2014, Victory Cross-section 1/98 by Corel 2015, Occre San Francisco Cable Car 2018, Model Shipways Armed Long Boat 2021

Card Models

Christmas Train by PaperReplika 2012, Yamaha DSC11 Motorcycle 2013, Canon EOS 5D Mark II 2014, WWII Tiger I Tank by Paper-Replika 2014, Wrebbit Mercedes-Benz 500K Roadster 2014, Central Pacific no. 60 Jupiter card model 2015, Mirage III 1/30 converted to 1/33 card model 2017, TKpapercraft 1912 Mercer 2021

 

 
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On  a theoretical basis, if you are setting up a line for masking tape, would using a laser pointer instead of a pencil help do the job without leaving a mark?

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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SpencerC

I salute you Sir! Every one of your posts has caused me much amusement!

Please keep posting - I love to see how the dark side lives!

Best Regards

Pierre

Just Started: Golden Hind scratch build

Previous - Scratch Built :Mayflower  HMS Myrmidon 

Kit: HMB Endeavour

+/- 20 RC Boats:Tugs,Yachts, Skimmers 

4 Miniature Freestyle Sailing Boats

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Jaager, that is exactly how I marked the water line on the Bounty Launch. The only trick was keeping out of the way of the laser while applying the masking tape.

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The dark side? Lol

 

Around here, scratchbuilding is referred to as "the Darkside".  :D  :D

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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  • 1 month later...

Spencer, dark side is dark side.

 

Lot of problems you do not have following kit instructions. But, even in a kit building, if you must/want to step away of instructions ( adding details, implement some things and tehnics there are not in instructions) it is very easy to slip to the dark side  ;)

 

Modified quote from Star Wars

 

Fear ( could you can do it)  is the path to the Dark Side. Fear leads to anger ( if you couldnt) ; anger leads to hate ( hate your model) ; hate leads to suffering ( why I can not do this) ... Train yourself to let go of everything you fear to lose ( and to start over and over) ... You cannot escape your destiny ... I can feel your anger... it gives you focus, it makes you stronger!

Edited by Nenad M

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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