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FIRST STEPS IN SPRAYING


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I am just getting ready to do some painting on my Pegasus.

 

Labouring away with my little brushes and Admiralty paints going ok but palled a bit, so - just as a variation - I thought I might try simple spraying.

 

Saw the Tamiya little spray cans - suitable to have a go?

 

So any advice - I dont want to get involved in getting a air brush etc yet but as I have commented before my brush paining is poor and sooooo slow.

 

So - any spraying advice - for  wood  and for metal - cannon barrels etc would be well received.

 

Is Tamiya can a good start or are car accessory cans just as good or are spray cans a dead end ?

Edited by SpyGlass
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Tamiya is a perfectly good paint to start with.

 

A good piece of advice I can offer, get one extra can and some cardboard to practice getting an even finish.

 

Start spraying just off the piece and draw the can across at a distance of about 8", keep going until you pass off the piece on the other side, then stop. Don't change direction midway across a piece, or you risk having a blob of runny paint. Make several light passes in one direction, overlapping the last pass slightly, until the face of the piece is covered, then make more light passes in a perpendicular direction. As long as you keep the passes light, you will create a nice clean even finish.

 

If you have a piece full of angles or hard to reach areas, paint them first. You will have to manipulate the piece in many different directions to get the paint to go where you need it to go. Always try to hold the can as close to upright as possible and perpendicular to the piece. Holding the can at an angle can result in a fillet of paint building up on inside corners.

 

Primer is essential for plastic or metal, I don't find it necessary for wood (which I prefer to brush paint anyway). For your canons, I'm sure you've seen on other build logs, find some finishing nails that will fit down the barrels and plant a pile of them in a board to use as a holder. Of course for canons, you only need to paint in the direction of the barrels, no point in going across. When the paint on the sides is dry, lay the canons down and paint the muzzles.

 

Hope that helps. Again, practice on scrap and leftovers first to get the technique, and you should be ok

 

Andy

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Thanks Folks all advice welcome.

 

Just tooo late Andy  -  finished my barrels with brush - not tooo bad - but I have a few spare so I may give them a whirl with a spray and see.

 

How "glossy" are these paints ?? will for example the PS5 black be suitable for barrels or other metal ?

Edited by SpyGlass
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You can purchase Tamiya paints in flat colors. I used Krylon flat black in the spray can on my Conny barrels and they turned out just fine. I also use off-the-shelf primers from Walmart with no issues. You get a lot more for your money and I use a lot of primer.

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Ahoy Mates :D

 

Here are a few tips on using spray paints I have learned over the years

 

1) Shake the can about 3 times as much as recommended. You can not "over shake" it

2) Place the cans in warm water prior to use to warm the paint.

3) Check the weather. Its more important then you think.

 

Painting

 

1) Multiple light coats

2) Hit the hard parts first (areas that are difficult to reach) Do the big easy areas last.

3) There is a range the nozzle needs for the paint to function properly. Too far away will effect the finish.

 

 

Professional results can be achieved with spray paint.

 

PS: Tamiya primer in a can is the bomb. It is so good that some high end modelers empty the can into another container so they can use it in airbrushes. Second in my book is the Mr. Hobby line

Edited by JPett
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Ahoy Adrieke :D

 

What did you paint and with what kind of paint

 

With most spray paint, on plastics and metal I use Testors Universal Enamel Thinner and a brush. On plastics I would only work the area for a few minutes. Then clean it with soapy water. It generally takes a few applications. Small metal parts can be soaked.

 

Lacquers require a stronger agent that can not be used on plastics

 

There are chemicals to remove paint from wood which work really well; sold at most hardware stores. Most come in a gel form and are easy to use. I never used them on Basswood but have used them on soft woods like pine with excellent results

Edited by JPett
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Ahoy Adrieke :D

 

With plywood you need to use extra care. Thinners and strippers could affect the glue that binds the plywood.

 

Is the plywood a flat sheet or an assembly.

 

What is the problem, wrong color, runs, paint is too heavy, finish ???

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Ahoy Adrieke  :D

 

I would love to say here's an easy solution but

 

With the amount of work your looking at it might be easier to remake the part

 

Paint stripper will remove the paint provided there is no plastic under there. You can use steel wool to scrape it off but it will be a slow process. Test first on a piece of scrap (even if you have to make it) and then work slowly doing sections. Don't try to do the whole thing at once as it will take multiple applications anyways.

 

As a test I would take a piece of wood and put it in a small container of stripper for an hour. It is possible the stripper will not effect the plywood and this would be good to know.

Edited by JPett
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thanks JPett

 

yes i have considered remaking the parts (so far for me not doing much scratch building on her lol)

 

i have also considered scraping off the paint with razorblade to scrape off the irregularities and then use sanding paper to get a nice smooth surface again

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Well got the Tamiya PS spray paint and gave them a whirl.

 

Lot easier than I expected  - as instructed lots of shaking and a bit of warming.

 

I used three "mist" and a couple of "wet" passes

 

The test gun barrel came out a treat - maybe a teeny bit glossy but a coat of matt varnish should fix that if required.

 

Tried some test planking and was very pleased UNTIL ..

I decided that I would like the surface just a little bit more smooth and just gave it a light touch with wire wool before adding more coats.

 

At  the touch orf the wire wool, the paint cover came away back to the wood more than expected - did i need to prepare the surface somehow - should I have put more coats on or what.

 

No problem addressing a fix  - just  a few more coats -  just wondered if i should aim for better adhesion somehow?

Edited by SpyGlass
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Ahoy Spyglass  :D

 

On wood it is always best to prime prior to any spray painting

 

I personally am not a big fan of canned spray painted wood. Much better to go with multiple coats of thinned paint with an airbrush or just an old fashioned  paintbrush. Just my two cents

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Ahoy Spy :D

 

Painting with a brush is easy.

 

Here is my current method. I am new to painting ships but not painting

 

 For ship building with model paints I use a wipe on polyurethane. Although not a true primer it does seal the wood, allow you to sand out the grain if you want, create perfect lines with tape and most importantly "I have it". To completely remove the grain will require a few coats. Each one sanded up to 400 or even 600 grade. I like to see some grain so I sand the wood smooth, wet it to raise the grain and then seal it with the poly. Then I only scuff it, I am currently using the scouring side of a blue kitchen sponge with very good results for this. I find the model paints like the poly but if you want the most durable finish you really need to go with full on primer. I am sure Model paint primers will work just fine. Remember to thin whatever primer you use. I use mineral spirits for the poly (50/50). There are water based polys but I have not used them.

 

I like the water based model acrylics but these should have a clear coat to protect them. I use enamel paints when detail is important. The clear coat diminishes them.   

Never paint from the jar. Stir don't shake either. Use the stirrer to take out a few drops. I use a cheap tile (HD sells then for 10 cents) to hold the paint I plan to use. Try to keep the paint off the lids and sides of the jar. It can dry and contaminate your paint.  

Thin the paint: 50/50 is a good place to start with most model paints.

Dip the brush half way in the paint and then touch a paper towel with it. The paint should wick into the towel. Pay attention to the spot size and depth of color. It will tell you if your mix is good. If the paint sits on top/coats the towel with a small dot it is too thick. It should soak in as soon as you touch it, but if it is translucent. it is too thin

Too thin is better then too thick though.

 

Cut in all your corners first with a nice light smooth stroke. Do not go back over one stroke with another unless there is too much paint. If you touched the paper towel there shouldn't be (touch it every time you pick up paint) . Don't go to long with your stroke either. You move the brush with your hand in an arcing motion. This is natural. Learn to use a portion of this arc for your stroke. Start you next stroke slightly overlapping the last. The brush only lightly gliding along  the surface.  Next do the larger areas. Again working from one side to another with nice even strokes and never going over or "working" the paint back and forth. Always one direction working from point A to point B. Your stroke should be horizontal to the direction that the item that is painted will be viewed (there are exceptions).  For long areas you do one stoke next to the other and work your way across.  If you are covering the wood with one coat it is way too thick . Go for no less then three to five coats, one stroke at a time. I understand Chuck uses 20. Scuffing or sanding between each coat  Use a wide brush for large areas and a thinner one for cutting in. Buy good brushes and take care of them. Always cleaning them and then form then into shape with your fingers. A little salvia helps here. Store them head up in a can or cup. Acrylic thinners are much better then water but water will work.

 

Practice, practice, practice. Just not on your model

 

 

PS> Your spray paint may have dried before it came in contact with the wood. This happens if you hold the nozzle too far away. Or the wood was not clean. A clean oil free surface being just as important for painting with a brush 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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