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HMS Victory by Paragraf – Shipyard – Card – 1:96


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  • 2 months later...

Furnishing Admiral’s cabin has been completed. I performed a table leg using the jig (as usually I do). The jig was cut out of pressboard (thickness 0,8 mm). Between movable (this on the right side) and fixed element of the jig (this on the left side) I’d put wet strip of alder veneer (pear veneer was too hard), and then the movable element of the jig I squeezed with clip. Veneer remained in the jig until dry, about an hour.

 

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To be continued...

Edited by Paragraf
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello, I peeked into your log as I am looking into a Victory model.

 

Extraordinary work!  Your furniture work is very inspirational, as another hobby of mine is dollhouse miniatures.

 

And I see my good friend Nenad is following as well B) .

 

Keep up the great work, this is incredible detail...

 

Cheers,

 

~Bob

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I’ve started laying planks on the sides. As a first step I’d set on the sides the lower edge of the main wale. Next, using tracing paper, I made a pattern corresponding to the shape of the main wale. Then I temporarily glued the pattern to the pressboard, which may seem a bit strange, from the inside of the pressboard, i.e. this side which is glued to the hull. Then I copied a shape of the main wale onto the pressboard and cut pressboard into single planks.

 

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Now a few words about why I’m cutting the planks from the inside. Typically, the paper is cut from the outside, i.e. from the side visible after gluing the element. This time, leading the blade from the inside I’m doing this because of the shape of the blade and the tendency to "extend" the thick pressboard during cutting. The blade, as is well known, has a conical shape. When a pressboard is cut with a knife, in particularly pressboard having a thickness of at least 1 mm, a V-shape slot is forming between the cut edges. The slot on the upper surface of the cut pressboard is wider than at the bottom (upper drawing). When such planks are laid on the sides, the wider part of the gap is placed on the inner side (this glued to the hull) and due to the oval shape of the hull, internal, diagonal cutting edges of the planks, joins together almost without leaving a space between them. What is important, the wider part of a gap is not visible on the outside (this illustrates lower left drawing). If the pressboard were cut from the outside, on the sides would be visible V-shape gaps (smaller or larger). This shows lower right drawing. 

 

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To be continued...

Edited by Paragraf
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  • 2 weeks later...

Outstanding craftsmanship and attention to detail.  I am very impressed by your types of material you are subbing in this build.  I am @ this time building a HMV USS Ticonderoga, though mine is pretty much stock as comes in book.  Much to be learned from watching your build and I look forward to more.

Rick B)

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  • 1 month later...
 

 

Today's soap opera episode is about my way of marking planks on the ship's bottom. As the first step, a frame the longest in the circuit (a distance calculated from the lower edge of main wale to the keel) had been divided to 7 equal portions, each of 15 mm width. The last eighth section is about 12 mm width.

 

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Then, using masking tape, I fixed temporarily the battens to the hull. The first batten was fixed 15 mm below main wale, the second 30 mm beneath main wale, the third 45 mm etc. After laying all the battens, I marked them on the hull with a pencil. After that I removed all the battens. This way I got eight long belts. Each of these belts will be first copied on tracin paper, then on the pressboard and finally the pressboard will be cut into single planks. 

 

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Now a few words about how I share the long belts into single planks. For this I use the pattern shown below. The vertical line on the right side, shows the maximum width of the plank that is needed. 

 

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The first thing is to put the triangular pattern onto the belt, previously drawn on the pressboard, so that the bottom edge of the belt come together the lowest, horizontal line of the triangular pattern. The second step is to move the pattern to the left or right, until the top edge of the belt will cross with the upper diagonal line of the pattern (the contact points are indicated by the arrows). The third is to mark the points in these spots, where diagonal lines crosses with the vertical line. So I follow until the end of belt. At these points where the belt is narrow (for example closer to the bow), the narrower part of the triangular pattern is put on the belt. In this way it is possible to smoothly taper single planks from their largest to the smallest width.

 

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Finally I join the points marked on the pressboard. 

 

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To be continued...

 
 
 
 
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Thank all of you for your compliments. Work still goes on, slowly but forward. Soon I'll show some update. The work is dragging like a turtle because there is not enough time to building the model. Additionally I decided to destroy some part of the current work and make corrections. I changed, for example, the look of the beakhead bulkhead and improved the gunports on the upper deck, which after the painting looked ugly.

 

Modlerbob. Banding card planks is for certain easier than wooden, but cutting them is much more difficult because it’s been done handly. It really hurts:D

Edited by Paragraf
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  • 2 months later...

 A few photos of my current work. Only several details have been added such as four giant cleats for fore sheets and main tacks and the deck beams. Deck beams are not glued yet; they are just lying. I've decided to change the beakhead bulkhead and lower the door opening and the gunports; this detail was done improperly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update. I've made the ladders, leading from the upper to the middle deck.

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Firstly I'd drawn the cheeks of the ladders, marking them under the appropriate angle (60 degrees), as a mirror image.

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Then, I glued croswide the painted straps of the pressboard; I set the distance between the straps by means of a spacer strip, corresponding to the thickness of the step.

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After sticking all the horizontal straps a kind of Christmas tree appeared.

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Then I cut off the cheeks of the ladders, cutting down on the lines drawn previously; It created a kind of comb with the slots in which I finally glued the steps.

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Edited by Paragraf
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