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HMS VICTORY by Kevin - FINISHED - Caldercraft/Jotika - 1/72


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Derek , good morning

 

The dead eye strop started as a pain, what i did was make a small hole using a 1mm drill bit where the pronges of the strops are fitted in the channel, then push the fixture into position with a pair of thin long nose pliers, worked a treat, to keep them in place a little dab of c/a glue, and covered with the outside strip

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i think i am going to start a topic "do we deserve crap instructions to be supplied with kits" 

Hi Kevin  i started a topic which is going strong in discussions called what would you like changed in your kit and why use that.But yes a rolls royce build with  lada instructions  For £700 plus it leaves a lot to be desired.  DEREK :pirate41:

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Not much to show for the few hours i have put in on the build this weekend, the bow timbers that fit into the head timbers are giving me a nightmare, with the decorative strip that flares in from under the cat-head, 

 

The rail that comes from under the cathead cuts unto the upper wale and stops where the the upper head timber strip comes into contact with the hull

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Astounding how well the proud lady looks.  Can I ask when that photo was taken?

i googgled for a photo, so i don't have a date, the photo stock didn't provide it

 

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=hms+victory+bow+photo&hl=en&rlz=1C1GGGE_en-gbGB473GB473&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=KE9iUdHOCInT0QXzsoGwBg&ved=0CDsQsAQ&biw=1680&bih=937

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Hi Kevin that rail that comes under the cat head i have not done that as of yet still deciding how to do it ,the manual says bend one of those brass strips i tried gave up its not as easy as it sounds you have to bend it sideways i tried it heated and all sorts the angle on the bend is more acute then it looks,i might try styrene,but doing the rigoles and lids first,cat heads i have knocked of so many times leaving putting those back untill later.Bye the way those channels do have  and i not done several rings and  cleats on them.Yep another master piece of the manual    DEREK     :pirate41:

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Hi Kevin

 

I used styrene strip - 1.5mm x 2.0mm - it worked quite well. The copper profile was impossible.  Unfortutely I went too far and tried to add the blue strip by sticking a smaller strip of styrene, painted blue, on top and that messed it all up !

 

Cheers

 

Yon

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i am continuing doing the stbd side, the cat head is finished and fixed/pinned, and i managed to successfully make the strip underneath it, cutting the wale was my biggest heartache, as i found it hard to mark everything and get the angle right, but like everything else, it will get done, all a learning curve

 

i used the brass profile, and bent with molegrips and a vice, then used fine wet and dry to rub out any marks, and yes it is fairly acute angle

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Cat heads 

As i continue working the stbd side, these were ok to build, but i either made a big fuss about nothing or they were just a pain to get the decorative strip under it, using the brass profile, it requires to be recessed into the upper wale, as well as running in all angles

 

Stbd side decorative strips

most of the brass profiles are now fitted between the upper gun ports,

 

 

channels/allready fitted with dead eyes

after repainting the ships side where necessary, i hope to have the stbd side fitted this weekend

 

 

Captains access access hatch -

stbd side ready to fit

 

ladder - stbd side 

being worked on

 

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Hello Kevin

Nice job with the cat heads and beak. I was comparing your pic's with the photo in the previous page and it looks Great. 

 

just a few things I noticed and I'm no expert, that is for sure, and dont know how many incarnations the Vicky went through....

Looking at the blue striped beam that runs down the cat heads bracket to the beak, in the photo there is what looks like a gunport but it seems to have side hinges and be smaller then the other ports. I looked over a few of the other Jotika kits and they all seem to have to same gunport placement. Is this something specific to the replica? There also appears to be an extra lower deck gun port directly under the cat head.

 

I'm still taken back when looking at the complexity of the Victory build, She's a magnificent Lady and has such a history. Guess I need to do more study. I can't help looking down that 3 rows of gun ports and thinking - look at all those ports to build and rig.  

 

To Victory and the modelers brave enough to build her :cheers: CHEERS!

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Kevin your paint work looks so smooth and dust free please tell me its a trick of the light.     DEREK    :pirate41:

yes it's a trick of the light

 

but i have spent quite a lot of time trying to keep it tidy, but it starting to cause me problems, mainly with the black, the wale's and down to the waterline were done in Halfords spray matt black, when it comes to touch-ups i am finding the pots are very glossy, as you can see on the upper black areas.

 

i lost a few more tiles last night, i dropped one of the captains entrance sides into the hull, and it bounced (laughing at me) all the way down to the keel. it's a big hull for turning upside down getting the dam thing out.

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Secure apparantly loose parts..

Invert ship, discover missed loose parts, re-right the ship

Curse

Secure newly found loose parts

Invert again

Shake the bejesus out of the ship..

Listen for rattle

No rattle, assume piece has now wedged itself in some truly inaccessible area

Curse

Insert ship into paint shaker

Vibrate the living daylights out of ship

Watch various formerly secure parts fly in all directions..

Curse loudly (paint shakers make a good bit of noise, you know)

Remove ship from paint shaker

Curse

Shake ship by hand once again...

No rattle

Curse

Put ship down.

Start cleaning up parts form all over the room

Find missing part under ship's stand

Pick up part

Try to reapply part to ship

Drop part back into the same opening it fell into in the first place

Curse a blue streak

Repeat

 

Andy

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Securing Chain Plates to the Hull

 

i have found that if the bottom of the chain plate is bent to approx the angle required, then you are able to mark the position with a Map pin.

 

Using a 0.5mm drill i have made a hole for the pin and tapped it in with a toffee hammer, worked so far.

Continually checking with the plans to ensure that the gun ports are kept clear

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Looks Marvelous, that picture with you holding pin drill really shows off the side paint job. The sheen on those black wales is perfect, along with the deadeyes.

 

but like always I have questions, Why are smaller deadeye always incorporated in the channel. I've always wondered as I've seen that done in many different kind of ships and never found a reason while researching. Again just curious.

 

Great Work Kevin

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Looks great Kevin, that's pretty much exactly the way I did mine. The only differences, I used the point of a divider to mark where the hole needed to be, and I used a slightly larger drill size, so the nail went in without putting pressure on anything. (All nails where secured with glue anyway).

 

Andy

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Hello Kevin

Yes excellent work on the channels and chainplates, every thing is crisp and clean. I did the same as Andy on the pins, made the hole a push in fit for the nail with a small dot of ca on the pin. Remember the dead eyes are reversed on the port side channels when compared to the drawing which shows the starboard side, if you see what I mean. Yep good stuff Kevin. DAVID

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Great work Kevin.

 

but like always I have questions, Why are smaller deadeye always incorporated in the channel. I've always wondered as I've seen that done in many different kind of ships and never found a reason while researching. Again just curious.

 

Keith,

 

The smaller dead eyes are for things such as backstays, which run from the topmast (ie higher up), and hence use a smaller line than the shrouds.

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