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Armed Virginia Sloop by BareHook - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 - First Wood Ship Build


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A continuation of the build started in Sept 2011.

 

I have finished the decks and cabin face. The decks took a lot longer than expected, I used black hull paint for the caulking, so had to wait for each plank to dry before bonding in place. The deck furniture is placed temporary.

 

In following posts I will re-post images of the build that were lost.

 

Ken

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Hi Ken,

 

Your AVS looks great!

 

I have a question on your hull planking. Are you using rare earth magnets to hold your planks in place while the glue dries, and if so, what is on the inside that they are attracted to? I salvage magnets out of computer hard drives and find all sorts of uses for them. The reason I ask is the silver disks on your planks look like they might be magnets.

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Jim,

Yes they are magnets. I got the idea from the "Ship modeling for dummies" site. They are very usefull for keeping the planks aligned until the glue dries. Once you are down to the last couple planks, you can no longer use them as there is a mating magnet on the inside that must be removed. I found they were a lot easier to use than pins or clamps. I did all my planking with "Weldbond" and didn't have to use any CA ahdesive, which I preferred as it allowed me to do small adjustments before a fixture cure of the adhesive.

 

All,

Please feel free to ask about any previous steps or images and I can expand on how I did the process.

 

Ken

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Hello,  I just recently bought this kit and it is going to be my next build.  Are you using the Lauck Street Shipyard practicum?  I am considering buying it to help with the build and improve the skills that are needed for ship building.

 

-Aaron

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I started with it, the first chapter is a free sample, but then diverged to The Model Boatyard practicum by John H. Earl which is a free download http://www.modelboatyard.com/avs_articles.html due to being unable to afford the Lauck Street one.

 

It is more general as a guideline, where the lauck street is very specific, but I have done ok with all the support at this website.

 

Ken

 

P.S. Please be sure to start a build log for it. There are a lot of modelers on this site who have already built this kit and can provide tons of info and suggestions. (i.e. The blocks for the cannon rigging are too big and should be replaced with 1/8" blocks)

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Thanks for the compliments! I've racked my brain a little and here are some AVS tips and tricks that I can remember.

 

Framing:

  • Use even spacer blocks bonded outboard between the bulkheads, this really strengthens and stiffens the frame assy.
  • I cut the rabbet after installing the bulkheads and keel and seemed to work fine.
  • Use Bow & stern Filler blocks.
  • Spend extra time faring, I needed to add some shims to some bulkheads.
  • Pay extra attention to the cabin framing, they have a slight angle for the window frames and is tricky. I ended up doing vertical widow sided with the top/bottom window angles aligning to the poop deck arc (not to plan) but am happy with the look.

Planking:

  • Buy some wider plank material for bow spiling.
  • Use magnets to help hold planks in place
  • Do not install final bottom counter plank until after the hull planks, allow the hull planks to extend into the counter and cut them all together, then install the counter plank. This creates a nice clean joint between these planks.

Other deviations:

  • For sweep holes, I created a drill fixture from brass shim for drilling the sweep holes (3 hole pattern), then drilled to larger sizes. I used a small saw blade to connect them then cleaned it up with knife blade and needle file. Was fiddly but cam out ok.
  • For the windows, I radiused the frame edges and painted two-tone for better contrast blue outer and gold cross, then installed with the radius protruding instead of installed flush.
  • I used Weldbond for the window glass.
  • I didn't paint the framework black inside the cabin, windows were too small to see thru.
  • I created a nameplate and named the ship after one of my daughters, future gift to decorate her home, plus gaurantees me at least 3 more builds to be done for the other kids ;)
  • I made wood handles on the cabin doors and companionway instead of metal.

Thats it for now, coming soon... Pumps and ships wheel

 

Ken

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For anyone planning to build the AVS, I have planking spreadsheets and a lot of building documentation I can email to you. They were originally provided to me from Peter Jaquith, whose build of the AVS provided much inspiration to me.

 

Ken

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  • 1 month later...

Working on finishing up the deck furniture. Those scary dark rigging clouds are looming on the horizon :o

  • Installed the timberheads and decided to keep them with a natural finish.
  • Fabricated the Bowsprit but still need finishing and details, just placed loose. Tried to do it the "planer/octagon" method and created scrap, had better luck with the drill motor and sandpaper. (would still like to achieve plabner skills, prob need better planer than $10 stanley trimming plane?)
  • Catheads installed/Painted
  • Swivel posts installed, I opted for a pair on the quarter deck instead of between the shrouds, plus provides a bit more firepower toward the stern area.
  • Stairs were a pain in the butt, managed it but spiked my BP :angry: , (next time make a fixture).
  • Working on the cannons. The laser cut trucks end up a bit small when made true round, so I used the large ones as the small and fabricated large trucks.
  • Next up, blackening metal for all the various ringbolts, cleats etc.

Question regarding cannon rigging.

There is an eyebolt and a ringbolt on each side of the carriage. I know the size to use for the ringbolt, but what about the eyebolt? Large 3/32 or small 1/16 dia provided? It is where the hook on the block attaches.

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That looks really good Ken. Decking is great. It is amazing how much of that detail - scarf joints and nibbing gets covered up in the end but still I'm glad I made the effort like you did. I had to really work at the bow sprit to get it to sit down on the deck and have the right angle forward of that - i.e. perpendicular to the mast. I can see you're in for that work. I also added some details to the swivel cannon posts which you might want to look at. You will have to watch out for rigging interference with your aft most swivel posts. A lot of lines come down at that point onto the quarter deck rail. I fixed the shroud swivel post after I'd done the shrouds and it worked out fine.

 

Definitely use the small eyebolt for the cannon rig. I think you can see it on my log. I used a very soft and fine black jewellers wire for the hooks this worked really well. I did a mini photo tuttorial on that on MSW V1 but unfortunately I have lost the photos do to a computer meltdown.

 

Look forward to your progress.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Thanks all or the info and comments! Alistair, yes that bowsprit angle will be interesting, I'll probably estimate the waterline angle in relation to the bottom keel, then determine the bowsprit angle from there.

I've been working on the cannon carriages and trucks. I created an assembly fixture for bonding the carriages, shown in the pics and loosly assembled one for a quick veiw as assembled. I've also completed a lot of fiddly little things:

  • painted the carriages and trucks
  • assembled ringbolts
  • cleaned-up brittania metal for blackening
  • fabricated wood anchor cross pieces
  • fabricated trunion straps and bolts
  • Fabricate rope coil fixture similar to the "modeling for dummies" site type
  • Fabricate channels, just need to add slots, waiting for creation of chainplates.
  • Fabricate traveller, drill deck for install.

Next up is blackening lot of little parts, completing cannon assembly, rigging cannons, rigging anchors & bouys, finish channels, make chainplates.

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HI Ken,

 

Great display of craftsmenship as you build your AVS. You may want to consider using the baseline to determine the angle of the bowsprit.

 

Looking forward to following your build.

 

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted Gallery

 

Current: Sultana (MSW)

Current: Phantom (MSW)

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

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Hi Ken,

 

Take a look at AVS Plan Sheet 2 - Hull construction. At the bottom of the plan sheet is the the "Framing Profile" drawing. Follow the keel forward and as the keel bends to begin forming the stem you will see the word "Baseline" underlined with a dotted line. The base line is the base of the hull. On the drawing the keel is attached to the baseline of your AVS. Using the base line to establish the the angle of the bowsprit is easy and very accurate. 

 

The reason I use the base line is because the bowsprit cap connecting the bowsprit to the jibboom is at a right angle to the base line on the Sultana I am building. I note on the AVS bowsprit drawing the bowsprit cap is at a right angle to the bowsprit.

 

In either case, one cannot go wrong establishing the angle of the bowsprit using the baseline.

 

My two cents.

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted Gallery

 

Current: Sultana (MSW)

Current: Phantom (MSW)

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

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Couple questions regarding Chainplates.

  1. The kit provided black coated steel wire for fabricating chainplates and block stropes. My concern is that this wire will eventually start to rust and stain the wood/rigging adjacent to it where installed. Should I find some .03 brass wire to use instead and blacken it?
  2. Should I reeve and space the deadeyes before installing one end on the chainplate and onto the hull and channels? Or install the deadeye/chainplate on the hull/channels, then reeve/space while on the hull?

Thanks!

Ken

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Hi Ken

1. I used brass wire for the chains - I did not use what came with the kit. I beat it flat after formed, blackened and painted it. I followed another log for the method but that has disappeared in the fall of MSW V1.

 

2. I rigged the lanyards after installing the chains and deadeyes and shrouds with their deadeye. The rope I used was very springy which made equalising the deadeye spacing between the shroud and the channel very easy.

 

Note also that the deadeyes have a rounded and flattened face - make sure the rounded face faces outboard - it looks better and mixing them up doesn't look good at all. Another trick is make sure the deadeyes can spin within their strope/chainplate. When gluing one of the chainplates into the channel I also glued the deadye, in the wrong orientation, into the strope/chainplate by accident and didn't discover this until I came to rig = big re-work on that channel...

 

Cheers

Alistair

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