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Old Collingwood

HMS Greyhound by Old Collingwood - Corel

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Decided to do a bit more painting today, the plan was to do the upper hull broad band of yellow ocre or mustard as was known in 18th century,  I had to mask the upper edge of the wale line first using narrow strips of tape,  after applying a few coats of my admiralty paint, I noticed that the planking was quite badly scored from over zelous sanding, it will need a bit of wood filler and gentle area sanding.

Also I had a small area of my deck develop a mark again due to over aggresive sanding revealing the dark under deck.

 

So - I haver decided to re-plank the whole  deck   (I know  madness)

 

OC.

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4 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

So - I haver decided to re-plank the whole  deck   (I know  madness)

 

Ah, I thought you would be having a perfect score, but there it is ... a redo!!! It's a good decision though, it would be a painful memory if you wouldn't have done it. Every time you would look at it you would know ...

She is turning out quite a beauty!

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37 minutes ago, cog said:

 

Ah, I thought you would be having a perfect score, but there it is ... a redo!!! It's a good decision though, it would be a painful memory if you wouldn't have done it. Every time you would look at it you would know ...

She is turning out quite a beauty!

Yep  I am having to scavenge the deck planks from my new xmas pressy  Corels HMS Peregrine,   to complete the deck planking.

 

OC.

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So  head on into re planking the deck   -  I first sorted out enough planks then gave then a light sanding on both faces, then I made the decision to bleach them in some household bleach, I put them all in a large flat bottomed dish - layed them all out flat and bunched together, then poored the bleach over them (enough so they were immersed in bleach) I also ran a sponge over them to make sure the bleach was doing its job well.

After about an hour I took them out and soaked them in plain water to get rid of the bleach, then towel dried and taken to the table.

 

 I dived straight into planking by measuring out the planking plan using 20foot eqv planks, I decided to do a four plank tier system, and so far I have put down three runs.

 

The upper hull planking where the grooves are will need to be filled with wood filler,  fingers crossed and weather allowing (we have our first large amount of snow) I will buy some wood filler tomorrow and get it thinly layered on the hull.

After it has been sanded smooth I have decided that the (mustard)  Yellow Ocre  is too vibrant and deep colouring, so I will add some dull White to it to tame it a bit.

 

OC.

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Evening all,   I finallly got round to finishing the deck planking, I think I have done a tidier job than my first deck planking, I added some thicker planks between the center sections, and will construct the frames around the masts.

It will need a gentle sanding then a couple of coats of flat coat.

 

OC.

 

 

DSC00023.JPG

DSC00024.JPG

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7 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:

too bad you couldn't have hid the blemish with a rope coil or something.  the redo came out nice though  ;) 

I am pleased because like most things - the more attempts at the same thing - the better they become,   I  was also more careful  about the deck layout keeping it to a 4 plank system with 20ft  eqv sized planks, and even the side  planks where they meet the bulwarks are more precise.

Its made the hull stronger aswel with a slightly thicker deck.

 

Next stage will be to build the mast surrounds then a gentle sanding.

Then I will apply some wood filler (that I brought today) this will be applied to the grooves on the upper hull as shown in my previous picture, then sanded and more yellow ocre applied (but lightened slightly with dull white).

Well thats the plan.

 

OC.

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13 hours ago, cog said:

Lovely deck planking OC. Will you be treenailing it, or leave it like this. When I look at how hardly visible the treenails on Victory are in real life, I would leave it like this.

Thanks carl,   I will not attepmt treenailing for the same reason you mentioned.

 

OC.

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Another update folks -  I lightly sanded the deck and did a small amount of wood dust filling, then I worked on creating some mast/deck supports, these were made using 1.5mm stock wood, I built up three flat sections from two strips glued together, then when set I sanded them to thier slightly different lengths, then after sanding smooth they were glued down on to the deck.

When these had glued I drilled out the centeres then used firstly using my fine rounded file then a half moon one, to get the correct size aperatures checking with my masts.

 

Here are a couple of pics.

 

OC.

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DSC00026.JPG

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29 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:

look'in pretty sweet now OC!  mast collars came out nice too  :) 

Yeah  with the mast collars I wasn't sure wether to do them square or simple round rings,   I have seen the square ones done on the large scale where they are pieces of art in them selves, and  join around the mast in a locking method.

 

OC.

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1 hour ago, popeye the sailor said:

if they were rings,  I'm surprised they weren't laser cut,  since this is a kit.   all the kits I've done had laser cut collars,  with the exception of the Sergal kit.  they look great none the less ;) 

Thanks mate,  very much appreciate your feedback and kind words.

 

OC.

 

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Evening folks,  last time I posted I was going to fill the grooves in the upper hull with wood filler,  this was only so so sucsessful as I did not want to smother the hull with too much filler,  so after applying a liberal amount and letting it set, I was able to do some gentle sanding.

After checking the area over - the grooves were still there just not as deep.  so I decided to just paint the upper hull from the wale to line of gun ports,  first off I mixed some yellow ocre with flat white to lighten the color slightly, I came up with quite a plesent shade that I feel is more appropriate, I started on the side with the grooves and applied the first thinned coat - that was  dried with the aid of a hair dryer, I carried this on with  about 8 layers each dried between coats,  I then turned the hull over and did the same to the other side.

It covered quite well  Admiralty acrylic paints are always good with brush painting, and dry to a nice hard finish.

The black on the wale will need some touching up a bit.

 

Here's the pics -

 

OC.

DSC00028.JPG

DSC00027.JPG

Edited by Old Collingwood
spilling.

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Hi folks,   more work today using a hairy stick thingy  and some of that colored wet stuff,  after masking off the yellow ocre I painted a fresh line above the wale, and gave it  several coats of dull black, after drying I removed the tape and was quite pleased with the result, I then moved up the hull painting in some of the details, till I got to the upper section where I decided to add some french blue.

It was a case of some touch ups including inside the gun ports and details with red ocre.

 

I am quite pleased with the color mix, will just need a couple of coats of flat top coat to blend it all in when its fully hardened.

 

A few more pics.

 

OC.

DSC00029.JPG

DSC00031.JPG

DSC00030.JPG

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Hiya folks,  Right so the second lower hull planking has begun,  I sorted my planks 3mm x 1mm and taperd the top section strarting from roughly the middle of the hull, going from 3mm to 1.5mm at the bow end,  I then cut the plank in two and also beveled the top edge, I then used my heated plank bender to get a nice curve for the bow and gently carried this back towards the mid hull area, I used a small amount of ca glue to hold the bow end and used pva on the rest, then I taped the mid hull end.

I then checked the mid hull to the stern area with the off cut - this plank did not need tapering however to let it lay freely,  I have  a  half stealer to fit between the bottom of the wale at the rear of the stern, its quite a long pointed gap going from a planks width at the stern and to a point, about a quarter of the way back towards the mid ship area.

I guess I will need to wait till the plank has set then mark and cut out to take the  half stealer.

 

OC.

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Folks  the dark areas that look like burning are "ermmmm burnt wood"  I used my heated plank bending tool  (soldering iron with a round flat thingy on top) to super heat up the planks after they were laid on the hull, my method was to gently slide it over the plank/s thinking it would bond quicker like a heat glue gun does,  yep it works but as I found out I have to be careful not to leave the heat concentrated in one place too long, or it will burn the wood.

 

OC.

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More work second planking - bit tedious to be honest,  I think its a combination of the kit, how the bulkheads came out, and my original positioning of the rabbat line - garboard  plank and the wale,    I have been struggling to keep a smooth line of planks without them needing to twist in a clinker style.

I decided after a couple of planks following the wale and including tapering the planks at the bow,  I needed to create more of a curve - so I shaped a couple of planks going from full plank width in the middle to nothing at each end,  I think this has helped with the natural run of the planks.

 

OC.

DSC00035.JPG

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DSC00037.JPG

Edited by Old Collingwood

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It does help the tapering, but it's not the way it's supposed to run. Did you have a look at the MSW article database, the one on planking ? Maybe an idea for your next hull ... however, you do have a tight fit on the planks which is important and gives it a smooth finish.

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55 minutes ago, cog said:

It does help the tapering, but it's not the way it's supposed to run. Did you have a look at the MSW article database, the one on planking ? Maybe an idea for your next hull ... however, you do have a tight fit on the planks which is important and gives it a smooth finish.

Half of me thinks I should have second planked from the keel upwards,  however I will still do that  and meet the wale planking somewhere in the middle,  I tried laying some thin long planks over the first planking to get a feel for natural lines, but they seemed to want to go in differtent directions due to the curveture of the hull.

It doesn't matter too much  as there is going to be a watermark line and painted flat white below that and yellow ocre above that upto the wal. so as long as it is smooth and looks ok and matches both port and starboard.

 

OC.

Edited by Old Collingwood

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