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The "What have you done today?" thread.


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40 minutes ago, Nirvana said:

Hopefully that will stop some of them to re-appear.

Not Blackberrys, It will slow them down for a few years and allow you to keep up, but if you turn your back long enough they will be back.

 

Up here in my area we also have Morning Glory. The only way to deal with that is drowning it in weed killer while they are still in the ground and AFTER they die pull them up and burn them! Even then If your neighbor does not do the same to their yard you will be out again next year doing the same thing! It is like a Zombie plant.

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1 hour ago, Nirvana said:

Hopefully that will stop some of them to re-appear.

You probably got most of it, the seeds are so small and blackberry is relentless. A couple years ago I finally won the war between me and the black berry in my back yard. If you see any sprouts cut them and immediately spray with a weed killer then dispose of the sprout don’t let it even touch the ground lol. Eventually you will get them all!

 

Bradley

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Re landscape design, consider taking a sketch of your lot with dimensions to the local nursery showing property orientation (south facing? sun/shade on what parts of the property at what time of the day?).   A local nursery will know what will do well in your local climate.   If you are doing new gardens invest in some good soil. Think about the future, any hardscaping you are thinking about?  That might impact what and where you plant.   Just wondered what are your plans for that fence in the front yard?  Totally personal choice/opinion (no right or wrong approach) but imagine the fence gone.  Would that help to open things up?   Most of all have fun!

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2 hours ago, Haliburton said:

 Just wondered what are your plans for that fence in the front yard?  Totally personal choice/opinion (no right or wrong approach) but imagine the fence gone.  Would that help to open things up?   Most of all have fun!

 

I would love to do that, however then the dogs won't stay in the yard....... lol

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I re-did the shelving over my one workbench yesterday. The programming station for my model train locomotives was set too close to the workbench, shading a large part of the back, from the overhead light. It was also too low to mount that same light under. In addition I bought a new control system, as the old one had developed problems.

 

This picture shows the old setup. The over head light just shows at the upper left corner, and you can see how the shelf shades the workbench.

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Here is the new setup. Notice that the new controller setup dispenses with the three switch project box. I laid down separate tracks for the Main and Programming Tracks, and a third for the short DC powered track. You have to test any regular DC locomotives, before you install DCC, to insure you are starting from a good base. If it doesn’t work on DC, you need to fix it before installing a DCC decoder.

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With the new controller shelf raised up I hung the light from it. I’ll install an under cabinet light above the controller shelf, to provide a little illumination for it. The large black thing with the silver buttons is my temperature gauge/clock, and not a permanent part of the assembly. My parts shelf is also more assessable now. By the way the wood boxes on the parts shelf, are items I got at Dollar Tree. They are quite handy. I’m sure any craft store would have similar ones.

 

I plan to paint the outside front of the light black, as this light has a frosted clear shade, and it is now at about eye level when I’m sitting down.

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In line with my previous post, I also did a little rearranging of the shop. Due to my upcoming hip surgery, that will prevent me from sitting at a workbench, during the 3 month recovery, I bought a second workbench. I had lowered my first one to sitting height, so this one was assembled at the original standing height. I moved the old bench to the opposite wall, and it will become my model train workbench, after my recovery. I assembled to new bench in the old location. Once I’ve recovered, I’ll lower that one too.

 

As a note the newer Harbor Freight work bench is of slightly lower quality than the first one I bought a couple years ago. The drawer slides came apart into many little disappearing ball bearings, just from trying to slide the drawers in!, I had to take a couple of the unused ones from the first bench to replace them. The drawers will go away when I lower the new one, but I had planned to reuse them at a different spot. I’ll have to buy new slides when I do. Also none of the new drawer front and back pieces were predrilled for the assembly screws, like on the first one., and the afore mentioned new slides will not mate with the older ones.

 

Old bench moved. (Yes, it will get cleaned off, this was shot in the middle of assembling the new one.) Sorry, my phone took really poor shots of these.

 

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New bench, with the three drawers I managed to install. This picture was before I added the parts self, mentioned in the previous post.

 

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My spray booth had been against the wall that the old bench was moved to, it now sits on the right side of the new bench.

 

I also made a simple holder for some new paints I bought. The tray is another wider one, I got at Dollar Tree. With three slats of 1/64th plywood glued in as separators. These are railroad (Santa Fe) Badger color paints. I don’t know why they came in two different format bottles, but I got them all in the one tray.

 

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Edited by thibaultron
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It's Spring and the wood work moves to the forefront it's a project that has been on the mind for a while a new outdoor table for the backyard to go under the oaks w/two new chairs.This one is made of Sapele and Philippine Mahogany to which the base is all mortise/tenon and she came out pretty square 43 7/8" one diagonal and 44" the other 99.8% and she sits flat.I use a citrus oil out of Vicksburg MS that is most excellent and really brings the grain/color out of the woods let it dry for a bit 3/4 days ready for varnish.The varnish I will be using will be marine in this case since this will live it's life outdoors 100% also all the tenons are drilled 1/4" hole with a 1/4 square dowel driven in to secure them.The pic without flash better represents the color when she makes it out back in the yard I will take a natural light pic.;) Kevin

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The wood work is done on this one just need to screw the top down and varnish it to which I think the varnish in 7/10 days see if the color mello's out some as the oil dries.I did take this photo with a stormy yellow sky at sunset so may of added to reddish color looks brown inside?but it will be a nice new aid when grilling out for trays and such .I often read out here in the morning while drinking coffee under the oaks it's peaceful I do miss all the big family gatherings for cookouts lost to many relatives in the last five years.I'll be getting back to the Mossie one day next on the list is Momma's carport got to borrow a jackhammer drill from a Buddy to anchor the poles.

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46 minutes ago, Javlin said:

The wood work is done on this one just need to screw the top down and varnish it to which I think the varnish in 7/10 days see if the color mello's out some as the oil dries.I did take this photo with a stormy yellow sky at sunset so may of added to reddish color looks brown inside?but it will be a nice new aid when grilling out for trays and such .I often read out here in the morning while drinking coffee under the oaks it's peaceful I do miss all the big family gatherings for cookouts lost to many relatives in the last five years.I'll be getting back to the Mossie one day next on the list is Momma's carport got to borrow a jackhammer drill from a Buddy to anchor the poles.

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Very nice  - ready for the summer.

 

OC.

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  • 2 weeks later...

In preparation for building my Granado Cross Section, I decided to add another shelf over the work bench. The first one was great for holding various supplies and parts, but I decided I needed one just for ready access tools.. I added another between the first one and the shelf for the DCC Controller.

 

Before:

 

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After:

 

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For my layout modules, I need many 3 ¾ inch wide strips of both ¾” and ¼” plywood. All must be straight and uniform in width. My first attempt was using the standard fence which came with my table saw. Complete failure! The strips all came out banana shaped. So I built the fixture below.

 

The major component was a “L” shaped fence made out of two 8 foot lengths of ¾ inch thick plywood, both 3 3/4 inches wide. I cut them from the factory edges, so I knew that that edge was straight. I glued the two straight edges together, insuring a straight assembly. Then I added the table at the side, so that the plywood would sit flat, as I cut it.

 

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Before I added the table, I positioned the L so that it would always be locked into the correct position. I cut a piece of ½” thick strip to fit in the table miter gauge slot, then clamped the L to it. I ripped a short piece of 2X3 using the base of the L as the fence. I then positioned this piece, against the outside of the L and screwed it and the ½ inch piece to the L. This way all I have to do is slide the ½ inch piece in the slot, and the assembly will always lock in the same distance from the blade.

 

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Today I tried this setup. It was better, but still a failure. The L bends too much sideways, as the plywood is fed through! The pieces I cut are good enough for the leg frame work, but tapered at the ends. I thought the 3 ¾ inch base would be stiff enough, but it was not. Yes, I clamped the jig down when I used it, as well as screwing the plywood base of the saw onto the ramp. I used a crate with a plywood top on the out feed side to catch the uncut plywood as I fed the sheet through. The saw was turned 180 degrees from these pictures, so I was standing on firm ground, not the side with the ladders.

 

I need to use a wider piece as the base of the L, so I’ll have to make another using  a base as wide as the saw table to the left of the blade. I will at least, be able to reuse the ½” strip, and ripped 2x3 piece, on the new jig.

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Completed another ~8 feet shelf/layout leg section. This will be the last of the shelf containing leg sections. The remaining sections will have larger things stored under them (my ride behind gas loco, metal cutting band saw, and a 6 foot counter type glass display case).

 

This last section is for my plastic model kits, some of the HO stuff. Yes, I am a kit hoarder! I’ll never be able to build them all, but it gives me a nice selection, of which one to start next. Yes, I also need to make a dump run.

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    I haven’t done any jigsaw puzzles since Pandemic puzzle #23 back on March 2.  As a matter of fact, I just disassembled that one today.   If I were ever to recommend a puzzle based on quality, that one would get my vote.  I mentioned the fact back then that the pieces have a real good bite that allows a very secure connection between the pieces, but until I actually attempted to take it apart, I really didn’t appreciate just how secure the connection was.  It took me about 40 minutes to get it apart!  I can literally roll the puzzle up like this photo below, and it will still hold together!

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    Several other features of the puzzle contributed to my recommendation.  First off, it comes in a heavy duty box constructed like an actual drawer complete with a pull handle.  Secondly, the pieces themselves come in a draw string bag so it’s very hard to lose any of them.  Thirdly, (Is that an actual term?) it comes with a full size poster of the picture for a guide.

All three of these features are shown below.

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    Another important feature is the letter matrix printed on the backside, which allow you to confirm whether or not the piece actually goes there.

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    This 1000 piece puzzle is part of the Fantasy series called the Age of Discovery series from www.ingood.com.  One reason for the puzzles’ tenacity to hold together is the fact the pieces are actually cut from basswood for an extremely precise fit.

    As far as the price goes, I couldn’t say, as it was a gift.

 

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