HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64

[Hollander-jan]

The first planking is finished it was a real job. With some filler it is smooth as it can be. Not totaly to my liking but can not do better as a first timer. Hope that the second planking will go well. I had clinker in mind but I think that it will be carvel, not decided yet. Afraid that klinker will be to difficult but do not know, I will

give some thougt and diced later. 

next time foto off the second planking.

 

jan

[Hollander-jan]

Planking repairing the bulkwark see for youself I am going on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you see it is clinker planking. So far so good I hope. Shut down some gun ports and made new ones. It all be allright in the end I hope.

This is it for now I will be planking for the next week or so.

 

se you all greetings Jan

Edited January 4, 2014 by Hollander-jan

[Hollander-jan]

More of the same planking I mean. Clinker planking is more difficult than I thought but it is going the way I want, although it is a hell of a job.  

 

I am doing the best I can and even more some time I surprise my self and learning in the process.

 

I have to slow down myself before I make mistakes that will cost me. On the other hand I can not wait to work on the deck or other things, but for now I will slow down a bit before it is to late. I think this slowing down is one off the things I learn from this hobby.  

 

Have solved the bulkwark problem by closing two gunports and opening two other ones. in time I will see if that is enough to overcome my mistake.

Enjoying this whole thing of building a boat very much.

 

Jan 

[Hollander-jan]

Hello

 

I have come a long way with the clinker planking on one side of the hull. But I had some problems.

Because the first planking was not that perfect, Bumps and dents. The second planking was, when I went higer 

on the hull comming further and further out. In my opinion there was a way to solve this and that was to 

construct the main whale and work may way op to there. The whale was my reference in the planking.

 

The thougt was to make a whale - stop the walnut planking there - place the whale and go on planking the last 

planks. The extra was that the last planks would go straight on and shoud solve my problem, how to end the 

clinker planking in a nice looking way, so I did.

 

I constructed a whale out of a couple of first planking planks bend it in shape sanded it and this is 

the result. 

 

 

There is one major thing can I repeat it at the other side so there will be a good look and not musch 

difference? None I hope! The whale will not be to difficult to remake but the clinker planking has to 

be the same at least.

 

This is the result of all that planking. Whale in place and one plank glued.

 

jan

Edited January 9, 2014 by Hollander-jan

[tkay11]

Well done for getting this far so quickly! Clinker planking is more difficult to do than the carvel type. I am sure you enjoyed working out the solution to your problem.

 

If you want to see the effect on another Sherbourne, have a look at Stockholm Tar's at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2918-sherbourne-by-stockholm-tar-moved-by-moderator/?p=83995. You'll see the concentric effect there as well.

 

Good luck on the other side!

 

Tony

[Hollander-jan]

Thank you Tony I appreciate your compliment What you said on our own build about planking both sides the other one is already half the way.

 I know the boat of Stockholm Tar looked at it several times. Actually he told me that clinker was well to do with the wood from the kit.

 

It is with this wood from the kit well to do but next time I will give more attention to first planking that makes it easier to do than what I just did.

 

I will doe the other side and see what comes up next.  

 

jan     

[Hollander-jan]

Sorry Tony forgot to tell you about working out the whale solution. Yes it gave me confidence to work it out and to see the result.

When I look at it now it appears natural to me . It looks like two big wooden beams making the whale together.

 

All in all a good looking solution of a not so big a problem.

 

Jan

Edited January 10, 2014 by Hollander-jan

[Hollander-jan]

Planking 

 

I almost finished my planking on the Sherbourne. Just one ore two planks and the whale on the starboard side. 

 

What is there to say about this project. 

 

To be honest it was above my capabilities. And I mean by that woodworking and caracter. To eager to prove 

I was able do do it. But had not enough patince to carry the project to a better standard and most of all 

did not do the first planking to well. Because of the first planking being not to well I had to do this 

clinker planking to hide all the faults I made.

 

What to say about the end product is is what it is. I have learned a lot. About model ship building and about 

how I can do it better. First be more patient in working out, it will come in the end. Second technique. 

 

I am satisfied with the result it looks ok with all the faults and mishapes it is what i could do at 

the moment. And there are musch better plankings than this one.

 

It is my ship and thats what it is with all his or her inperfection. And most of all one side is musch 

better than the other side.

 

I will glue in little splinters here and there and go on with the build and leave the hull and planking 

for what is was. A proces with a verry steep learning curve and fun to do.

 

Her is a picture of where I am now.

 

Jan

 

 

 

 

 

 

I little remark the wood provided by the kit is ok it is very brittle and some of the planks for the second planking split easy.

 

All in all clinker planking can be done with the wood of the kit.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 11, 2014 by Hollander-jan

[tkay11]

For all your self-criticism, it looks good, and you have to start looking at it closely to see the difficulties. It's also highly probable that friends or relatives will look at it and admire the work -- precisely because they don't see it with the same precise attention to detail that you have given it for such a long time..

 

You'll find it a common theme amongst the ship modellers here that they are their own severest critics -- it's part of the deal when you are into something that demands, as you say, a lot of patience. It is deeply satisfying when technique improves with experience. I am constantly learning more patience.

 

Looking forward to the continuation

 

Tony

[Stockholm tar]

Hi Jan,

 

I've just caught up with your log. Good work with your clinker planking, and I think you've found it's not so difficult. Believe me, I felt the same before doing mine, and as I think you've found, it is manageable. If I have a small criticism, it is that I think you might have overlapped the planks perhaps a little more, and you have to keep an eye on the tapering. All in all though very well done.

 

I think you've also learnt that it's better to progress at a slower pace, trying to make each part as best you can, rather than hurrying to get to a perhaps more enjoyable part of the build. Trying I know, but you'll end up with a better model as a result. Tony also hit the nail on the head when he said that we are our own worst critics!

 

I see you've made up one of the guns. Good idea for checking those gunport heights – I wish I had thought of doing that, since my larboard bulwark was a little too low at the stern. It isn't noticeable, but let's just say the two after guns needed some serious modification to fit – and even then they just cleared the upper edge of the port! You might want to think about shortening the trunnions, they're the metal pins the gun rests on on the carriage, as they shouldn't overlap the carriage sides. A small file should do it.

 

Look forward to seeing what's next.

[CAd My Fingers]

Hi Jan,

 

Congratulations with your planking--it looks good! Tony is right about us being our worst critics--would we tell our loved ones sometimes what we tell ourselves? In my view, I believe the most important thing about first and second builds is what we learn vs. how well the ship looks. You are learning many valuable things both about building boats and probably about your self and it sounds like you are loving those discoveries! It is that learning that makes these first projects perfect and beautiful!

 

I'm looking forward to following your progress!

 

Cheers,

Jay

[Hollander-jan]

Thank you all for giving me this good advise and for looking at the log and the pictures.

 

@Tony

I have to be very self critic on my work, But I thank you for what you say I keep it in mind.

 

@Kester

Thank you for the words about my clinker planking I did what I was capable of but a bit more patient will be the word from now on.

 

@Jay

I have learned again about myself and that is a good thing. But I have also learne how much fun it is to build a small boat like this.

 

 progress will be slow I have a bathroom to renovate. There will be time for the boat. There will be study for the deck and how to do the caulking. and so on and son.

 

As soon as there are things to report or questions to ask you will hear from me.

 

By for now Jan

Edited January 11, 2014 by Hollander-jan

[Hollander-jan]

Can anyone tell me what the best way is to cut out the gun ports. This because of a small disaster by witch I almost destroyed my bulkwark. Now in repair mode  

 

The damage is sever but the wood is patient as always. Please I am in need of advise

 

jan

[tkay11]

If you post some pictures, then maybe someboldy would be able get a full understanding of the situation so that they could work it out.

 

Tony

[Hollander-jan]

Sorry for no picture I am a shamed the damage has been repaired but now I have to open 7 more of those ports and do not know the way to do it  I make a picture but the light is bad so the picture will be not to good> I will see what the picture of the repaired damage will show and a few pictures of the port situation I am in.

 

Jan

[Hollander-jan]

Here we have a few pictures

 

picture of the damage 

 

 

repaired it as best as I could

This is the situation I am in. I fear to open the other ports because I do not know how to.

 

As you see the other side is planked the inside is not yet planked.

 

I have done my best to repair the damge as you can see but not very pleased with this. Before I go and open the other ports I need to know how I can take that project on with a bit more know how.

 

A not so happy Jan

Edited January 15, 2014 by Hollander-jan

[amateur]

Dremels are beautiful, but also quite powerfull (too powerful in my opinion, I have a 40W minicraft, and it is well suited for most jobs, powerwise speaking)

 

Do you have something like a X-acto or Swan knife (blade 11)? Getting your knife in from the outside of the hull, and starting in the centre of the gunport, and slowly cutting towards the sides. The small round holes: I would suggest a small round ratfile (search for naaldvijl in Dutch). slowly turning round and gently pushing inward, until the correct diameter is reached.

 

Jan

Edited January 15, 2014 by amateur

[Hollander-jan]

Thank you Jan I thought that it would be someting like that. We will be more careful the next time.

Thanks for the reply.

 

Jan

[Stockholm tar]

Jan,

 

I think I would approach this from the other side, as it were. From the inside of the bulwark you can actually see the position of the gunport, and sweep ports, on the opposite side – something rather difficult to gauge any other way! This will give you the exact size to go for.

 

Next, I think I would try drilling the holes for each port across the model, from inboard – one in each corner and one in the middle. Start by pricking where the holes should go (so that the bit doesn't 'wander'). If you're very careful you might use be able to use a Dremel, with a small size bit. If you don't think you can manage that, try doing it by hand. In awkward places I have often held the bit by hand (pressing with the thumb) against the wood and twisting it. This will take a little while, but it does work.

 

When the holes are made, and so marking the area to be removed, from the outboard side you can then carefully cut straight between them with a sharp knife, and then tidy each port up with a file. I hope this helps.

 

Something to remember, perhaps, for your next model. It might be better, and easier, to plank around the gunports (how it is done on the real ship) rather than plank over them, and cut them out afterwards. As you become more proficient in model building, you'll probably realise the instructions are there only as a guide – and that there are other ways to achieve a goal!

 

Btw, I don't fully understand why you moved some of the gunports, as I think this could cause problems later, with other deck fittings.

Edited January 15, 2014 by Stockholm tar

[Hollander-jan]

Thanks for this very well done answer Kester. I have thougt about planking around the ports in some way and will do this in the futher.

For now I am busy and very careful opening the ports and is satisfactory. 

 

The trouble is that there is not enougf patients in me but it is comming around.

 

About the ports and the places this is due to an erlier mistake. I have checked but all wil go as far as deck is concerned.

 

I see this as a learning ship and stil having fun to work on it.

 

Jan 

Edited January 15, 2014 by Hollander-jan

[Stockholm tar]

Jan,

 

Ok, I'm sure you'll get there. As you say, look at it as a vessel to learn on – and I'm glad you're having fun!

[Hollander-jan]

The planking of the out site hul is finisht. Here are some pictures of the boat as he is now.

 

 

 

 

 

Jan

Edited January 16, 2014 by Hollander-jan

[CAd My Fingers]

Jan, she's coming along nicely!  Glad you're having fun with your build--you're right, these first projects are all about learning!

 

Cheers,

Jay

[Hollander-jan]

A jig for the carriages

 

I have made a jig for putting togeter the carriage for the cannon. My problem was the carriage is to smal to 

handel and to get a copple of carriages that are the same I had to get something that would help me to get it

the same. A jig was the answer. But to glue the carriage together and getting them out of the jig was 

something else.

The anwer is shown the picture. The axels go in, A and the sides fit over the axels. The main problem was all 

has to very tight. 

Sanding the axels to the right proportions so they will get in and out is what you have to do and be sure off.

The sides have to fit easeley as well. But all has to be tight. Dry fit to be sure. It all looks much work 

but it gave me confedence in getting the carriages right. And all off them the same and as Tony says not look 

like "Go Carts". The jig as shown in the picture is not perfect.

 

The first carriage worked wel but the next I made where more problematic. The fitting was not precies enough and by the lake of tollerance in the scale it was not to be adjusted. After all a nice exercice but not what I had expected. It helped a bit but after all I had to make them by hand. Wich was not aesy because of the trembling in my hands. Iff I had to make more carriages I would have made a better jig but now it was to do by the number of carriages 8 in total.

 

The wheels will be put on and all will be painted after that inner bulkward and the deck. Progress will be slower because of other building projects in the house (bathroom)

 

foto jig

 

.

 

 

Jan

Edited January 19, 2014 by Hollander-jan

[tkay11]

I love seeing people's ideas for jigs. They are always so interesting, and stimulate new ways of thinking. Yours is no exception -- nice idea, Jan! Hubert Sicard also has some nice jigs for cannon at his site 'Wooden Ship Modeling for Dummies'. His hands are some of the shakiest I have seen, yet he manages very well -- so take heart!

 

Tony

[Hollander-jan]

Is there anyone who can tell me what the funcyion is off the copper wire in the building off the carriages. Likes a dumn question but I do not understand this.

[Gregor]

Hi Jan. Chuck offers an excellent guide for assembling the parts of a gun carriage. There you can see how the "wire" holds the two sides together.

Cheers,

Gregor

[tkay11]

In the Sherbourne kit Gregor is right in that the wire is there just to keep the sides upright. It is a kind of bracing bar. However, it is not in the correct position in terms of a real carriage as the photo below from the AOTS book on the Cutter Alert shows.

 

In Chuck's version, it is also performing the function that was originally for the real gun -- there was a transverse rod on which the bed rested and this bed rested on the rear axle tree and held the quoin at the same time. In the Sherbourne kit, as far as I remember, it didn't hold any bed and the quoin just rested on the axle tree -- hence leaving the copper bar just to hold the sides at the right distance apart.

 

Since it is hard to see the details of the bed of the carriage in the assembled carriage with the cannon, not many people would really notice. The problem for me was that the sides of the carriage in the kit just looked elongated and out of proportion.

 

 

I hope that's right, and that it's correct!

 

Tony

[Hollander-jan]

Thanks Tony and Gregor that gets me forward. Sorry Gregor but as always Tony gifs an answer that is so well done you can not mis what he is telling excellent man, I love your reply's. (is your milling bit already there?)

 

Another thing is that I have decided to go for six (6) guns. This is due to the replacing of the gun ports after gluing the bulkward wrong.

It is not a big deal for me because the ship is, as I said, a schooling project. Opening more ports wil give trouble with the channels. On the other hand I will construct a nice deck house to let the captain enter his quarters. You wil see in due course.

 

Jan

[tkay11]

Thanks, Jan, but please note that I only make suggestions based on my highly limited experience. Others have more knowledge about the Sherbourne and model ship building than I could hope to achieve in a long time. You'll probably see in other posts I make about other builds that sometimes I give an inadequate suggestion, or even (in one case) where I have misunderstood the request entirely due to the fact that I hadn't read the request thoroughly!

 

So never be surprised if you find others providing even better explanations or suggestions!

 

And yes, my package arrived today, but unfortunately they sent some drill bits in error, so I have to send them back and wait for a replacement.

Tony