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gil middleton

HMS Victory by gil middleton - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:72

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Hi Gil,


Thanks for bringing your Victory log back! She is really a beauty.


And thanks for your posting on hammock netting, since I'm going to be doing that on the Constitution in the near future. I do have a couple of questions.


1) Does your netting go one piece across the bottom, or is there an inboard and outboard piece of netting?


2) I like your idea of using the annealed wire at the top of the netting. But, in the last picture, the inboard wire looks a lot thicker than the outboard wire. Is that a trick of perspective?


Thanks again!



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Hi Gil


Thanks a lot for loading up again all your great pictures and especially all the drawings you made. It will be a great help for all modelers!




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Harvey, Popeye, Lawrence, Rosmarie and Grant. It's nice to hear from each of you and see the build logs coming back to life.  There are still some wonderful  logs that haven't reappeared, however, I'm only about half done sorting and posting, so perhaps most will reappear.  Cheers, Gil

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11.    BOW


Continuing in my attempt to recover the build log by arranging photographs for each area of the build.  The bow has a striking beauty that was missing in the late 1800's and early 1900's.  We've all seen pictures when the Victory's bow was boxed in creating a rather ugly entry to the water. The transmogrification with the restoration is what makes building the Victory (at Trafalgar) so much fun.


Building the roundhouses. Vertical planks were glued and sanded.post-68-0-22879300-1361735733.jpg


Starboard round house faired and painted.post-68-0-40393600-1361735817.jpg


Once again, an example of the color change observed with flash photography.post-68-0-67288300-1361735914.jpg


Attempting to drill the porthole, the round house was shattered. Rather like being hit by a 12 pounder. A small pilot hole followed by a rotating abrasive worked better.post-68-0-31194100-1361736185.jpg


Fortunately, the ship's carpenter was at hand.post-68-0-84866500-1361736245.jpg


Forward gratingpost-68-0-42780300-1361736298.jpg


Head timbers placedpost-68-0-77080300-1361736335.jpg


Forming false rails, contoured by soldering iron and curved wood plank bender.post-68-0-80720000-1361736442.jpgpost-68-0-91018600-1361736465.jpgpost-68-0-48888000-1361736498.jpg


Compound curvepost-68-0-40682500-1361736574.jpgpost-68-0-96386600-1361736598.jpgpost-68-0-95383300-1361736617.jpgpost-68-0-24879900-1361736655.jpgpost-68-0-64045000-1361736675.jpg


Building the Catheads. Base bevelled to the angle of the catheads. The three strips of lighter wood in each are temporary spacers for the sheeves.post-68-0-83695700-1361736847.jpg


Horizontal supports glued in place.post-68-0-43943800-1361736957.jpgpost-68-0-63818200-1361737814.jpgpost-68-0-57026600-1361737848.jpgpost-68-0-63756800-1361737882.jpgpost-68-0-14795300-1361737919.jpgpost-68-0-69099500-1361737953.jpg


Figurehead.  Parts were hand painted and look OK.  To see what is possible, look at Daniel's log (Dafi) who made individual lions to place on the crest.post-68-0-82026400-1361738258.jpgpost-68-0-75730800-1361738303.jpgpost-68-0-15888400-1361738333.jpgpost-68-0-08596600-1361738357.jpegpost-68-0-33826600-1361738389_thumb.jpegpost-68-0-40685400-1361738415_thumb.jpegpost-68-0-71888600-1361738443.jpgpost-68-0-45463000-1361738471.jpgpost-68-0-29591800-1361738497.jpg


More details on the bow will be added with the post on the Bow Sprit and rigging. Cheers, Gil

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12.     STERN


When the stern details were added, my wife said  "It's beginning to look like a real ship."  A rewarding comment after four years. But on with the build.


The inner layer of the stern fascia.  Outboard windows are the quarter galleries.  Inner openings were painted white to try to achieve an appearance of depth, while the central white board was then painted black.post-68-0-99644600-1361739640.jpg


Back side of outer fascia. Experimenting.  Placing the windows from behind (opposite from instructions) gave much better definition to windows.post-68-0-04795800-1361739825.jpgpost-68-0-97763400-1361739878.jpg


Initial painting.post-68-0-30274000-1361739920.jpg


Deep fascia painted around the windowspost-68-0-97527200-1361739982.jpg


Black painted using fine line masking, then touch up with reverse masking.post-68-0-62629800-1361740065.jpg


Ballisters painted yellow ochre before glueing in place.Horizontal black above and below windows is styrene strip painted black before glueing.  Spacers between windows ; styrene, painted black.post-68-0-24885200-1361740280.jpg


Painting stern decoration (was not on Victory at Trafalgar)post-68-0-24793700-1361740367.jpg


Glueing stern fascia in place.post-68-0-82980500-1361740422.jpg


Tying the fascia (transome) to the counter of the hull required cross planking.post-68-0-33774600-1361740544.jpgpost-68-0-88769400-1361740579.jpg


Details added. Camera angle made appearance of stern look square. See next photos.post-68-0-27817300-1361740755.jpgpost-68-0-29963100-1361740782.jpgpost-68-0-58941100-1361740815.jpg


Real ship, quarter viewpost-68-0-85612000-1361740885.jpgpost-68-0-44029600-1361740920.jpgpost-68-0-18408700-1361741049.jpg


Natural light photopost-68-0-93039500-1361741284.jpegpost-68-0-84067300-1361741313.jpeg


Rudder.  Small addition to trailing edge to raise chain attachment above the waterline.post-68-0-27907700-1361741449.jpg


Preparing for copper platespost-68-0-81023700-1361741508.jpgpost-68-0-32961100-1361741539.jpg


"Nails" placed by ponce wheelpost-68-0-42917300-1361741608.jpg


Pintles and gudgeons.post-68-0-25653200-1361741680.jpgpost-68-0-05987700-1361741703.jpg


Pintles and gudgeons. "Bolts" are small rivets (0.035") placed in drill holes.post-68-0-95957500-1361741823.jpgpost-68-0-35763200-1361741849.jpg


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14.    BOW SPRIT


The bow sprit and its rigging is logged as one section. It required tapering along with the yards.  The following is a simple rig for sanding and tapering a dowel (picked up from Donny. However, he has moved on to a much better  lathe). post-68-0-37228400-1361743151.jpgpost-68-0-79537100-1361743214.jpgpost-68-0-87725500-1361743254.jpg

Making the gammoning saddles. The dowel is cut half way through.post-68-0-63579100-1361743344.jpg

Approximately, 1/2 of the dowel removed.post-68-0-66952300-1361743413.jpg

Drawing angled cuts.post-68-0-46007200-1361743484.jpg

Hollowing out the half dowel.post-68-0-22843400-1361743558.jpg

Cutting on the angle.post-68-0-41164600-1361743615.jpg

Glueing elevations to create saddlespost-68-0-59785100-1361743694.jpg

Tapered dowel, "iron" bands, and gammoning saddles.post-68-0-17831700-1361743781.jpg

Tenon for cappost-68-0-22973300-1361743827.jpgpost-68-0-53850200-1361743996.jpgpost-68-0-25859600-1361744024.jpg

Added stop cleats for rigging, bees and cappost-68-0-31820700-1361744096.jpgpost-68-0-73078300-1361744126.jpgpost-68-0-56466600-1361744151.jpgpost-68-0-05441000-1361744202.jpgpost-68-0-58919900-1361744230.jpg

Bow Sprit, Jib boom and Flying jib boom.post-68-0-09827600-1361744311.jpg

Jib boom at cappost-68-0-36738200-1361744374.jpg

Flying jib boom bracket on jib boompost-68-0-96875200-1361744469.jpg

Sorting out the congestion and somewhat confusing rigging on the bow sprit. (plans from JoTika)post-68-0-13033600-1361744595.jpg

Fitting blocks and deadeyes to the bow spritpost-68-0-82999700-1361744672.jpgpost-68-0-15213100-1361744706.jpg

Rigging the bobstayspost-68-0-45004500-1361744790.jpg

Bobstays served and spliced through the stempost-68-0-65277200-1361744885.jpg

Close up of bobstay attachment at stem (cutwater).post-68-0-61521900-1361744978.jpg

Attaching shrouds to hull eyebolts. Shrouds served at bolts.post-68-0-55950000-1361745099.jpg

Bobstays and shrouds at bow sprit.post-68-0-14829600-1361745166.jpg

Gammoning the bow sprit. Inner, outer and flying martindales attached by lashing to eyebolt on knightheads.post-68-0-21843100-1361745338.jpg

A trick to simpliy gammoning. Daniel (Dafi) would simply have one of his little men stationed in the bow timbers to pass the line through. Lacking the Lilipution crew, painting the gammoning line with C/A creates a long thread needle to pass the line through the bow timbers.post-68-0-74800100-1361745662.jpgpost-68-0-51097100-1361745689.jpg

Dolphin strikerpost-68-0-32051600-1361745768.jpg

Flag staffpost-68-0-99906400-1361745825.jpg

Yard slung by served sling with lashingpost-68-0-61746900-1361745906.jpg

Forestay and preventer attached at bow sprit by served collars with lashings (details in rigging section)post-68-0-95092200-1361746100_thumb.jpg

Forestay and preventer attached. Topmast stay and preventer passing through sheeves in the bees.post-68-0-07079200-1361746255_thumb.jpg

Topmast stay and preventer terminate at lower lashings at the starboard and port knightheads.post-68-0-29031400-1361746378_thumb.jpg

Overview of bowsprit and guys.post-68-0-88790300-1361746432_thumb.jpg

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15.    MASTS


Rake of the masts. Foremast 0 degrees,  Mainmast slight and Mizzen more.post-68-0-66990200-1361746889.jpg


Lower masts are tapered athwartships but not fore and aft.  This is a simple jig for shaping the masts.post-68-0-48832700-1361747033.jpg


Dowel in the jig to progressively plane down the sides.  Small Stanley plane at left. The nail glued through a hole in the near end simply prevents rotation and ensures the same parallel planing to the opposite side.post-68-0-12034500-1361747362.jpg

Foremast narrowed side to side. "Iron bands" (styrene) placed with cheeks over.  Squared top with tenon for mast cap. Preparing fore top with styrene strips.post-68-0-16849900-1361747561.jpg


Side view of foremast and under side of fore toppost-68-0-59851000-1361747642.jpgpost-68-0-19054700-1361747683.jpg


Top of foremastpost-68-0-17321300-1361747743.jpg

Foremast with cheekspost-68-0-33219600-1361747798.jpg


Foremast. Additional "iron bands" over cheeks and vertcal batten along the forward side of the mast separating the lower yard from the mast.post-68-0-03135100-1361747954.jpg


Side view of foremast.  Dowel for main mast abovepost-68-0-51434800-1361748049.jpg


Details of mastpost-68-0-16248900-1361748136.jpgpost-68-0-39713600-1361748160.jpgpost-68-0-27909000-1361748192.jpg


Fore top and main top. Actually black, however, flash photo changes color to brownpost-68-0-72487800-1361748310.jpgpost-68-0-33985700-1361748332.jpgpost-68-0-87075400-1361748355.jpgpost-68-0-96989700-1361748382.jpg


Foremast with fore toppost-68-0-00988300-1361748441.jpg


Lower masts with tops.post-68-0-55678600-1361748513.jpg


Adding battens and iron bands to squared endpost-68-0-02766700-1361748591.jpgpost-68-0-47843100-1361748621.jpg


Battens and deadeyes.post-68-0-07013500-1361748685.jpgpost-68-0-39152700-1361748719.jpgpost-68-0-71606500-1361748747.jpgpost-68-0-24761200-1361748771.jpg


Adding top mastpost-68-0-09554500-1361748849.jpg


Top mast and topgallant mastpost-68-0-44079400-1361748917.jpg


Top mast, hand mast and bolsters for shroudspost-68-0-20035500-1361748995.jpg


Topgallant mast to top mast.  Eight sided portions by sanding blockpost-68-0-11463900-1361749104.jpg


Blocks previously sanded, then stained "English Oak"post-68-0-67902500-1361749185.jpgpost-68-0-72412400-1361749220.jpg


Attaching blockspost-68-0-39654900-1361749279.jpgpost-68-0-28864600-1361749312.jpgpost-68-0-70465900-1361749337.jpg


At top mastpost-68-0-01850000-1361749392.jpg


At topgallant mastpost-68-0-20711300-1361749440.jpgpost-68-0-62128900-1361749465.jpg

Rigging a blumb bob to set the rake of the mastspost-68-0-12668800-1361749679.jpg


Ready at last for the standing riggingpost-68-0-85965000-1361750066.jpg


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Thanks Kevin and Joe.  I know this is all old stuff and it takes a while to redo the build site.  With any luck, I'll get to new photos in a few days.  cheers, Gil

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For those who haven't yet rigged a full ship, a few thoughts might be in order.  For those who have, my apologies for the redundancy. My most valuable aid in rigging is the Lazy Susan to swing the ship back and forth while installing and tensioning shrouds and stays.post-68-0-06179800-1361772472.jpg


Another is a means of serving shrouds at the mast tops, the leading shroud at each mast and portions of the stays.  This is a simple rig from "Ships Ahoy" models.post-68-0-07115400-1361772643.jpg


Some form of third hand is virtually mandatory for complex splices, rigging blocks, adding a running line to blocks, etc.post-68-0-10043400-1361772754.jpg


My instruments concist of a heavy duty needle driver with cross serrations in the jaws for grasping (left), a fine smooth jaw needle holder for fine instrument ties (2nd from left),  angled forceps that can reach just about anywhere and sharp serrated scissors that will cut on the knot.  One hears comments such as "I hate C/A" or "Of course one can't usa C/A in the rigging."  I aggree with Ed Tosti, with his magnificent scratch built Victory, that there are rigging challenges that I could not do without it. Of course if it irritates one's nasal cavity or bronchi, better stick to white glue or work with an open window.  I keep a tiny cup of fast C/A glued to a piece of wood (non-spill) with a small applicator or toothpick, rolling each on a paper towel after each application. These will last for an all day session.post-68-0-27703000-1361773550.jpg


One can't have enough small clamps or alligator clips.  With a bit of masking tape over the teeth, they will hold the smallest thread.post-68-0-71863600-1361773676.jpg


Beginning with the shrouds, these were laid on following the JoTika plans and McGowan's book with McKay's drawings.  Each shroud with deadeye measured and labelled.post-68-0-48942600-1361773869.jpg


All shrouds served at mast.post-68-0-34886300-1361773923.jpg


Shrouds attached alternating starboard to port to even tension.post-68-0-81912600-1361774007.jpg


Deadeyes and lashing of shroudspost-68-0-87089200-1361774070.jpg


Graph paper on cardboard to align the futtock stave and later for rat lines.post-68-0-58991000-1361774463_thumb.jpg

Deadeyes at main mastpost-68-0-56846700-1361774582.jpgpost-68-0-89052500-1361774627.jpg


Pendants made with served line around a bullseye and an eye splice. Good seamanship often favored a tapered splice.post-68-0-95661600-1361774772.jpg


To simulate a tapered eye splice, sieze the bight with several turn (I prefer repeated half hitches, alternating the diredtion of the turn with each hitch).post-68-0-46811100-1361775005.jpg 


Follow by separating and cutting off one strand and sieze a few more turns.post-68-0-02267300-1361775097.jpg


Cut another strand plus a few more turnspost-68-0-44981600-1361775176.jpg


Finally cutting the last strand plus siezing and one has the appearance of a tapered splice.post-68-0-72594400-1361775269.jpg


Another advantage of C/A glue.  If one is left with a protuding stump, a light clamping before the glue has cured will reshape it.post-68-0-11006100-1361775516.jpgpost-68-0-21593600-1361775540.jpg


Making the catharpins with eye splices at each endpost-68-0-31058500-1361775609.jpg


Catharpins can be seen lashed to the futtock stavespost-68-0-42785700-1361775678.jpg


Futtock shrouds in placepost-68-0-74917900-1361775735.jpgpost-68-0-40006300-1361775777.jpg


Mizzen shroudspost-68-0-39085600-1361775864.jpg


Top mast shroudspost-68-0-46955200-1361775913.jpgpost-68-0-86587900-1361775940.jpgpost-68-0-81054500-1361775968.jpg


Lining up fore mast, main mast and mizzen while adjusting tension port and starboard.post-68-0-07436900-1361776062.jpg


Shroud cleats in placepost-68-0-72199400-1361776117.jpg


Bullseye attached to base of topmast shroud deadeye, to be swung inboard to receive topgallant shroudpost-68-0-71527000-1361776245.jpg


Topgallant shroud after Longridge. post-68-0-78559100-1361776331.jpg


Topgallant shroudspost-68-0-00532300-1361776418.jpg


Topgallant shrouds pass inboard of staves in topmast shroudspost-68-0-12688200-1361776506.jpg


Terminate with lashing to bullseye attached to base of deadeyepost-68-0-78742700-1361776612.jpgpost-68-0-03498700-1361776633.jpg


Shrouds in place.  Ratlines will be shown as a separate topic.post-68-0-82215000-1361776721.jpg


I would suggest completing rat lines before tying down the topgallant shrouds, sliding backstay, breast backstay, etc. It's much easier to tie rat line without adjacent lines interfering.post-68-0-45924000-1361776901.jpg


To be continued................









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Hi Gil,

I'd like to add my thanks for uploading the build log. It'll be a constant source of reference and awe as I strive to complete my Victory.

Best regards


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Well this is exellent, over such a short period of time. I was only waiting for the fitting of the rudder to bring me back up to date. Thanks for giving my plans back. Regards DAVID

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Hi Daniel,  I am remiss in not keeping up with your log and others, however, I'm still learning how to use the new site and above all to restore the build site.  It should be done in a day or so, when I can sit back and enjoy the work of our many friends on MSW.  I'll even have a few new photos to post.

David and Jim, It's nice to know someone actually reads all this stuff.  I've certainly learned my share before "the crash of 2013,"  We're all learning from each other and it will be good to get back in stride.  Cheers, Gil

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On with reloading the build site.




Experimenting with a mouse and eye for the forestay.  Forming the eye with served line.post-68-0-27168700-1361831413.jpgpost-68-0-10816300-1361831465_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-85672400-1361831495.jpg


Forming the mouse with extra winding.post-68-0-44115400-1361831558.jpg


Mouse and eyepost-68-0-93919900-1361831604.jpg


Bow sprit collar (served)post-68-0-01999100-1361831659_thumb.jpg


Attaching bow sprit collar with lashing between eyespost-68-0-50765700-1361831731_thumb.jpg


The forestay and mainstay are served at the mast to just beyond the mouse, and wormed from there on.  Serving the forestay.post-68-0-36455000-1361831869_thumb.jpg


Backwinding to begin the mousepost-68-0-02567500-1361831921_thumb.jpg


Winding to build the mouse. A little C/A helps build the trailing end and serving continues just beyond the mouse.post-68-0-90894400-1361832050_thumb.jpg


Serving ended by passing thread through the stay.  I did not glue and cut this worming line until the three worming lines were passed. It is nearly impossible to pass a needle through C/A treated line.post-68-0-17191800-1361832339_thumb.jpg


Three strands passed through the stay to begin worming.post-68-0-29016800-1361832429_thumb.jpg


Worming the forestaypost-68-0-81679200-1361832486_thumb.jpg


Served on right, Wormed on left.  Mouse to be added.post-68-0-80050700-1361832553_thumb.jpg


Forestay and preventer at fore toppost-68-0-02028900-1361832663_thumb.jpg


Mouse and eye (served).  Starting lacing line between stay and preventer.post-68-0-92006900-1361832807_thumb.jpg


Forestay and preventerpost-68-0-61088100-1361832865_thumb.jpg


Attached at bowsprit to served collars with lashings.post-68-0-64092800-1361832998_thumb.jpg


Main stay and preventer at main toppost-68-0-64914800-1361833062_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-82157700-1361833101_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-46153800-1361833142_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-39815400-1361833174_thumb.jpg


Attached to collars around the bow spritpost-68-0-97761600-1361833256_thumb.jpg


Main top mast shroud and preventerpost-68-0-47166400-1361833329_thumb.jpg


At fore toppost-68-0-90065000-1361833385_thumb.jpg


To lashing at deck eyepost-68-0-82798200-1361833441_thumb.jpg


Mizzen top mast staypost-68-0-17907200-1361833525_thumb.jpg


Mizzen stay and top mast staypost-68-0-61891600-1361833598_thumb.jpg


Mizzen staypost-68-0-21569100-1361833645_thumb.jpg


Main top mast stay and preventerpost-68-0-55122800-1361833698_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-57164500-1361833735_thumb.jpg


Main sliding backstaypost-68-0-66917600-1361833788_thumb.jpg


Main breast backstaypost-68-0-48225500-1361833848_thumb.jpg


Foremast sliding backstaypost-68-0-04198800-1361833906_thumb.jpg


Foremast breast backstaypost-68-0-44923700-1361833953_thumb.jpg


All stays and backstays were left adjustable until final tensioning and alignmentpost-68-0-57814500-1361834050_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-69242200-1361834081_thumb.jpg




About a year ago, Mike Graff gave our Puget Sound Ship Modellers (PSSM) group a superb well thought out presentation on improving our model photography.  The need was obvious.  Here, the Venetion blinds obscure the rigging details.post-68-0-27504500-1361834331_thumb.jpg


I tried poster board which was totally inaddaquate.post-68-0-81250200-1361834399_thumb.jpg


Finally, I obtained a "baby blue" pull down shade which should improve my posts from here on.post-68-0-20868600-1361834524_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-09198500-1361834556_thumb.jpg


Next up, Rat linespost-68-0-30984000-1361834645_thumb.jpg

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My first thought on ratlines is to complete them prior to some of the standing rigging.  Here the topgallant shrouds, lashed to bullseyes just inboard of the topmast shrouds, play havoc with tying the ratlines.post-68-0-68970500-1361835021_thumb.jpg


The second thought is I rather wish I had gone with black thread.  The natural thread contrasted with the black shrouds makes the ratlines appear almost white by comparison.post-68-0-29270400-1361835225.jpg


The result is that one's attention is drawn to the ratlines rather than the more important rigging that supports them.  I tried toning down the contrast by painting the ratlines with a "black wash" (very dilute black paint) with some success.post-68-0-56101100-1361835417_thumb.jpg


Graph paper used to align the futtock stave and ratlines.post-68-0-17289600-1361835484_thumb.jpg


The color contrast appears less intrusive with less intense lighting.post-68-0-87948900-1361835589.jpg


I began with clove hitches but switched to overhand knotspost-68-0-74190000-1361835681.jpg


Overhand knots resulted in only one line around the dtay rather than two with the clove hitchpost-68-0-26983200-1361835762.jpg


Ratlines on main mast.post-68-0-80132600-1361835809.jpg


On futtock shroudspost-68-0-55329700-1361835861.jpg


Top mast shroudspost-68-0-01606200-1361835904.jpg


Inboard view of top mast shroudspost-68-0-45066500-1361835952_thumb.jpg

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Wow! You wormed your stays before serving?


Does worming improve the lay of the serving?


Looking A+++ as usual. Thanks Gil!



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    I am thinking that second time around is better than the first time I see this part of the update. Keep the post coming.

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Finally the running rigging.  This will bring the build log up to date, with a few new photos at the end.  There are still a number of small details  to add on the ship such as boomkins (deferred in order not to knock them off), lanterns, etc. and much more running rigging so I'll probably be busy for another year.  Work on our real boat begins in March to prepare it for summer cruising, so priorities will change. Grant (gdale) will pass me by and I'll get to study his rigging before making mistakes.  It's a relief to have the build log back in place and to see others taking shape. MSW is alive and well, and our sincere thanks to all the moderators who have suffered through the trials. Our inconvenience is but a fraction of their increased work load, dedication and frustration. Thanks you!!!


On with the rigging.  On the right, the initial square jeer block.  Center: sanded and stained with "English Oak"post-68-0-98601500-1361837223_thumb.jpg


Lower and upper jeer blocks.  Indentations for double stropping.  These massive blocks were 26" long on the real ship.post-68-0-70193500-1361837367_thumb.jpg


Experimenting with yard lift and battens (styrene) at central yerdpost-68-0-80997100-1361837453_thumb.jpg


Battens and iron bandspost-68-0-99121600-1361837503_thumb.jpg


Double stropped jeer blocks (served)post-68-0-29276000-1361837585_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-50079100-1361837614_thumb.jpg


Warps of rope to support jeer blockspost-68-0-46092900-1361837763_thumb.jpg


Lower: Main yard with battens, iron bands and yard cleats.  Next up: studing sail (stuns'l)) booms. Middle: Foremast yard, tapered by sanding with power drill lathe (ends to be cut off).  Supplied stuns'l rings too large.  Replaced by cut section of styrene tubing (5.5mm diameter)post-68-0-41889200-1361838095.jpg


Rigging for yard lift, jeer blocks (double stropped), all servedpost-68-0-49591600-1361838183_thumb.jpg


Supplied stuns'l boom rings and replacementpost-68-0-17798800-1361838261_thumb.jpg


Central yard, plus iron bands and yard cleatspost-68-0-71596100-1361838317_thumb.jpg


Yard cleats.  "bolts" are .035" rivets.post-68-0-63179200-1361838427_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-93974700-1361838456_thumb.jpg


Fittings at end of yardpost-68-0-15605400-1361838507_thumb.jpg




Main yardpost-68-0-47469700-1361838593_thumb.jpg


Stuns'l boom rings.  Stirrups for foot rope (horse) from 24g dark annealed wire with thread lashing around yard.post-68-0-27605300-1361838764_thumb.jpg


Siezing around wire to simulate eye splice supporting foot ropepost-68-0-12899000-1361838892_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-34541100-1361838920_thumb.jpg


Styrene and square brass rod for stuns'l boom supportpost-68-0-85959600-1361839011_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-32431100-1361839076_thumb.jpg


Yard rigged with yard sling,jeer blocks, yard lift blocks, horse and stirrups and Flemish horses at ends.post-68-0-36140200-1361839231_thumb.jpg


Jeer blocks with lashing through eye splices from stroppingpost-68-0-31865600-1361839318_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-43952500-1361839430.jpg


Stuns'l booms addedpost-68-0-64598200-1361839497.jpgpost-68-0-94260700-1361839529.jpg


Brass wire to pin yard to mast (to stabilize yard for rigging)post-68-0-04618100-1361839607_thumb.jpg


At last, the build log is up to date.  The next few pictures are work done just before the crash and not yet posted.  Cheers, Gil

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Thanks Joe.  I hope you're back to modeling before long.

Harvey, I'm not that clever.  I served the stay to just beyond the location of the mouse and then wormed it from there on.  Perhaps I should have done what you describe.  Gil

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RUNNING RIGGING  Continued.   New posts


Foremast yard with yard sling.  Yard pinned to mast for stability with brass wire drilled into mast and yard, + C/A gluepost-68-0-94223500-1361852066_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-31604100-1361852125_thumb.jpg


Yard sling plus jeer blocks.  Timber hitch on yard leads to upper jeer block, and from blocks leads down to deck. Yard jeer blocks lashed to yard through eyes in tail of double strops.post-68-0-60689000-1361852326_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-18950200-1361852748_thumb.jpg


Truss pendants. Each passes around back of mast, through bullseye lashed to yard on the opposite side and down to deck.post-68-0-09748400-1361852796_thumb.jpg


Rigging truss pendants to block and tacklepost-68-0-58658200-1361853014_thumb.jpg


Main mast truss pendants terminate at block and tackle to deck eyebolt and finish at cleat at base of mast.  Jeer blocks line terminates through sheeve in the main top bowline bitts just aft of the main mast.  Yard topping lift terminate through sheeves in the kevel at bulworks (below forward shroud).post-68-0-37007600-1361853319_thumb.jpg


Topping lift.post-68-0-11153000-1361853394_thumb.jpg


Foremast yard topping liftpost-68-0-79725200-1361853447_thumb.jpg


Foremast yardpost-68-0-24178000-1361853485_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-43732800-1361853509_thumb.jpg


Jeer blocks line terminates at fore top bowline bitts (aft of fore mast), truss pendants to tackle forward of mast and tooping lift to kevels at bulworkspost-68-0-43073800-1361853653_thumb.jpg

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Superb craftsmanship as always Gil. Your posts on the early stages of the Running Rigging will be a great help to me - very soon! I was interested in your reflections on your ratlines. Indeed it was your comment that helped me to decide on going with black ratlines and I'm very pleased I did. I have however, stuck with clove hitches for all the ratlines. To be honest, I'm not sure that most observers would be able to tell the difference anyway.

I'm not sure I'll overtake you - somehow work and life seem to conspire to severely limit my shipyard time!



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Hi Gil,

I'm Jerry and I just started bilding HMS Victory like yours.  I have a question that I hope you will answer for me.  Did your bulkheads fit the slots of the keel immediately or did you have to trim (sand) the slots to make the pieces fit?  Thanks for your answer or anyone elses answer who may read this.



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