Jump to content
gil middleton

HMS Victory by gil middleton - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:72

Recommended Posts

Hi Gil,

 

Thanks for bringing your Victory log back! She is really a beauty.

 

And thanks for your posting on hammock netting, since I'm going to be doing that on the Constitution in the near future. I do have a couple of questions.

 

1) Does your netting go one piece across the bottom, or is there an inboard and outboard piece of netting?

 

2) I like your idea of using the annealed wire at the top of the netting. But, in the last picture, the inboard wire looks a lot thicker than the outboard wire. Is that a trick of perspective?

 

Thanks again!

 

Harvey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Gil

 

Thanks a lot for loading up again all your great pictures and especially all the drawings you made. It will be a great help for all modelers!

 

Cheers,

Rosmarie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Harvey, Popeye, Lawrence, Rosmarie and Grant. It's nice to hear from each of you and see the build logs coming back to life.  There are still some wonderful  logs that haven't reappeared, however, I'm only about half done sorting and posting, so perhaps most will reappear.  Cheers, Gil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

11.    BOW

 

Continuing in my attempt to recover the build log by arranging photographs for each area of the build.  The bow has a striking beauty that was missing in the late 1800's and early 1900's.  We've all seen pictures when the Victory's bow was boxed in creating a rather ugly entry to the water. The transmogrification with the restoration is what makes building the Victory (at Trafalgar) so much fun.

 

Building the roundhouses. Vertical planks were glued and sanded.post-68-0-22879300-1361735733.jpg

 

Starboard round house faired and painted.post-68-0-40393600-1361735817.jpg

 

Once again, an example of the color change observed with flash photography.post-68-0-67288300-1361735914.jpg

 

Attempting to drill the porthole, the round house was shattered. Rather like being hit by a 12 pounder. A small pilot hole followed by a rotating abrasive worked better.post-68-0-31194100-1361736185.jpg

 

Fortunately, the ship's carpenter was at hand.post-68-0-84866500-1361736245.jpg

 

Forward gratingpost-68-0-42780300-1361736298.jpg

 

Head timbers placedpost-68-0-77080300-1361736335.jpg

 

Forming false rails, contoured by soldering iron and curved wood plank bender.post-68-0-80720000-1361736442.jpgpost-68-0-91018600-1361736465.jpgpost-68-0-48888000-1361736498.jpg

 

Compound curvepost-68-0-40682500-1361736574.jpgpost-68-0-96386600-1361736598.jpgpost-68-0-95383300-1361736617.jpgpost-68-0-24879900-1361736655.jpgpost-68-0-64045000-1361736675.jpg

 

Building the Catheads. Base bevelled to the angle of the catheads. The three strips of lighter wood in each are temporary spacers for the sheeves.post-68-0-83695700-1361736847.jpg

 

Horizontal supports glued in place.post-68-0-43943800-1361736957.jpgpost-68-0-63818200-1361737814.jpgpost-68-0-57026600-1361737848.jpgpost-68-0-63756800-1361737882.jpgpost-68-0-14795300-1361737919.jpgpost-68-0-69099500-1361737953.jpg

 

Figurehead.  Parts were hand painted and look OK.  To see what is possible, look at Daniel's log (Dafi) who made individual lions to place on the crest.post-68-0-82026400-1361738258.jpgpost-68-0-75730800-1361738303.jpgpost-68-0-15888400-1361738333.jpgpost-68-0-08596600-1361738357.jpegpost-68-0-33826600-1361738389_thumb.jpegpost-68-0-40685400-1361738415_thumb.jpegpost-68-0-71888600-1361738443.jpgpost-68-0-45463000-1361738471.jpgpost-68-0-29591800-1361738497.jpg

 

More details on the bow will be added with the post on the Bow Sprit and rigging. Cheers, Gil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

12.     STERN

 

When the stern details were added, my wife said  "It's beginning to look like a real ship."  A rewarding comment after four years. But on with the build.

 

The inner layer of the stern fascia.  Outboard windows are the quarter galleries.  Inner openings were painted white to try to achieve an appearance of depth, while the central white board was then painted black.post-68-0-99644600-1361739640.jpg

 

Back side of outer fascia. Experimenting.  Placing the windows from behind (opposite from instructions) gave much better definition to windows.post-68-0-04795800-1361739825.jpgpost-68-0-97763400-1361739878.jpg

 

Initial painting.post-68-0-30274000-1361739920.jpg

 

Deep fascia painted around the windowspost-68-0-97527200-1361739982.jpg

 

Black painted using fine line masking, then touch up with reverse masking.post-68-0-62629800-1361740065.jpg

 

Ballisters painted yellow ochre before glueing in place.Horizontal black above and below windows is styrene strip painted black before glueing.  Spacers between windows ; styrene, painted black.post-68-0-24885200-1361740280.jpg

 

Painting stern decoration (was not on Victory at Trafalgar)post-68-0-24793700-1361740367.jpg

 

Glueing stern fascia in place.post-68-0-82980500-1361740422.jpg

 

Tying the fascia (transome) to the counter of the hull required cross planking.post-68-0-33774600-1361740544.jpgpost-68-0-88769400-1361740579.jpg

 

Details added. Camera angle made appearance of stern look square. See next photos.post-68-0-27817300-1361740755.jpgpost-68-0-29963100-1361740782.jpgpost-68-0-58941100-1361740815.jpg

 

Real ship, quarter viewpost-68-0-85612000-1361740885.jpgpost-68-0-44029600-1361740920.jpgpost-68-0-18408700-1361741049.jpg

 

Natural light photopost-68-0-93039500-1361741284.jpegpost-68-0-84067300-1361741313.jpeg

 

Rudder.  Small addition to trailing edge to raise chain attachment above the waterline.post-68-0-27907700-1361741449.jpg

 

Preparing for copper platespost-68-0-81023700-1361741508.jpgpost-68-0-32961100-1361741539.jpg

 

"Nails" placed by ponce wheelpost-68-0-42917300-1361741608.jpg

 

Pintles and gudgeons.post-68-0-25653200-1361741680.jpgpost-68-0-05987700-1361741703.jpg

 

Pintles and gudgeons. "Bolts" are small rivets (0.035") placed in drill holes.post-68-0-95957500-1361741823.jpgpost-68-0-35763200-1361741849.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

14.    BOW SPRIT

 

The bow sprit and its rigging is logged as one section. It required tapering along with the yards.  The following is a simple rig for sanding and tapering a dowel (picked up from Donny. However, he has moved on to a much better  lathe). post-68-0-37228400-1361743151.jpgpost-68-0-79537100-1361743214.jpgpost-68-0-87725500-1361743254.jpg

Making the gammoning saddles. The dowel is cut half way through.post-68-0-63579100-1361743344.jpg

Approximately, 1/2 of the dowel removed.post-68-0-66952300-1361743413.jpg

Drawing angled cuts.post-68-0-46007200-1361743484.jpg

Hollowing out the half dowel.post-68-0-22843400-1361743558.jpg

Cutting on the angle.post-68-0-41164600-1361743615.jpg

Glueing elevations to create saddlespost-68-0-59785100-1361743694.jpg

Tapered dowel, "iron" bands, and gammoning saddles.post-68-0-17831700-1361743781.jpg

Tenon for cappost-68-0-22973300-1361743827.jpgpost-68-0-53850200-1361743996.jpgpost-68-0-25859600-1361744024.jpg

Added stop cleats for rigging, bees and cappost-68-0-31820700-1361744096.jpgpost-68-0-73078300-1361744126.jpgpost-68-0-56466600-1361744151.jpgpost-68-0-05441000-1361744202.jpgpost-68-0-58919900-1361744230.jpg

Bow Sprit, Jib boom and Flying jib boom.post-68-0-09827600-1361744311.jpg

Jib boom at cappost-68-0-36738200-1361744374.jpg

Flying jib boom bracket on jib boompost-68-0-96875200-1361744469.jpg

Sorting out the congestion and somewhat confusing rigging on the bow sprit. (plans from JoTika)post-68-0-13033600-1361744595.jpg

Fitting blocks and deadeyes to the bow spritpost-68-0-82999700-1361744672.jpgpost-68-0-15213100-1361744706.jpg

Rigging the bobstayspost-68-0-45004500-1361744790.jpg

Bobstays served and spliced through the stempost-68-0-65277200-1361744885.jpg

Close up of bobstay attachment at stem (cutwater).post-68-0-61521900-1361744978.jpg

Attaching shrouds to hull eyebolts. Shrouds served at bolts.post-68-0-55950000-1361745099.jpg

Bobstays and shrouds at bow sprit.post-68-0-14829600-1361745166.jpg

Gammoning the bow sprit. Inner, outer and flying martindales attached by lashing to eyebolt on knightheads.post-68-0-21843100-1361745338.jpg

A trick to simpliy gammoning. Daniel (Dafi) would simply have one of his little men stationed in the bow timbers to pass the line through. Lacking the Lilipution crew, painting the gammoning line with C/A creates a long thread needle to pass the line through the bow timbers.post-68-0-74800100-1361745662.jpgpost-68-0-51097100-1361745689.jpg

Dolphin strikerpost-68-0-32051600-1361745768.jpg

Flag staffpost-68-0-99906400-1361745825.jpg

Yard slung by served sling with lashingpost-68-0-61746900-1361745906.jpg

Forestay and preventer attached at bow sprit by served collars with lashings (details in rigging section)post-68-0-95092200-1361746100_thumb.jpg

Forestay and preventer attached. Topmast stay and preventer passing through sheeves in the bees.post-68-0-07079200-1361746255_thumb.jpg

Topmast stay and preventer terminate at lower lashings at the starboard and port knightheads.post-68-0-29031400-1361746378_thumb.jpg

Overview of bowsprit and guys.post-68-0-88790300-1361746432_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

15.    MASTS

 

Rake of the masts. Foremast 0 degrees,  Mainmast slight and Mizzen more.post-68-0-66990200-1361746889.jpg

 

Lower masts are tapered athwartships but not fore and aft.  This is a simple jig for shaping the masts.post-68-0-48832700-1361747033.jpg

 

Dowel in the jig to progressively plane down the sides.  Small Stanley plane at left. The nail glued through a hole in the near end simply prevents rotation and ensures the same parallel planing to the opposite side.post-68-0-12034500-1361747362.jpg

Foremast narrowed side to side. "Iron bands" (styrene) placed with cheeks over.  Squared top with tenon for mast cap. Preparing fore top with styrene strips.post-68-0-16849900-1361747561.jpg

 

Side view of foremast and under side of fore toppost-68-0-59851000-1361747642.jpgpost-68-0-19054700-1361747683.jpg

 

Top of foremastpost-68-0-17321300-1361747743.jpg

Foremast with cheekspost-68-0-33219600-1361747798.jpg

 

Foremast. Additional "iron bands" over cheeks and vertcal batten along the forward side of the mast separating the lower yard from the mast.post-68-0-03135100-1361747954.jpg

 

Side view of foremast.  Dowel for main mast abovepost-68-0-51434800-1361748049.jpg

 

Details of mastpost-68-0-16248900-1361748136.jpgpost-68-0-39713600-1361748160.jpgpost-68-0-27909000-1361748192.jpg

 

Fore top and main top. Actually black, however, flash photo changes color to brownpost-68-0-72487800-1361748310.jpgpost-68-0-33985700-1361748332.jpgpost-68-0-87075400-1361748355.jpgpost-68-0-96989700-1361748382.jpg

 

Foremast with fore toppost-68-0-00988300-1361748441.jpg

 

Lower masts with tops.post-68-0-55678600-1361748513.jpg

 

Adding battens and iron bands to squared endpost-68-0-02766700-1361748591.jpgpost-68-0-47843100-1361748621.jpg

 

Battens and deadeyes.post-68-0-07013500-1361748685.jpgpost-68-0-39152700-1361748719.jpgpost-68-0-71606500-1361748747.jpgpost-68-0-24761200-1361748771.jpg

 

Adding top mastpost-68-0-09554500-1361748849.jpg

 

Top mast and topgallant mastpost-68-0-44079400-1361748917.jpg

 

Top mast, hand mast and bolsters for shroudspost-68-0-20035500-1361748995.jpg

 

Topgallant mast to top mast.  Eight sided portions by sanding blockpost-68-0-11463900-1361749104.jpg

 

Blocks previously sanded, then stained "English Oak"post-68-0-67902500-1361749185.jpgpost-68-0-72412400-1361749220.jpg

 

Attaching blockspost-68-0-39654900-1361749279.jpgpost-68-0-28864600-1361749312.jpgpost-68-0-70465900-1361749337.jpg

 

At top mastpost-68-0-01850000-1361749392.jpg

 

At topgallant mastpost-68-0-20711300-1361749440.jpgpost-68-0-62128900-1361749465.jpg

Rigging a blumb bob to set the rake of the mastspost-68-0-12668800-1361749679.jpg

 

Ready at last for the standing riggingpost-68-0-85965000-1361750066.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Kevin and Joe.  I know this is all old stuff and it takes a while to redo the build site.  With any luck, I'll get to new photos in a few days.  cheers, Gil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

16.    STANDING RIGGING

 

For those who haven't yet rigged a full ship, a few thoughts might be in order.  For those who have, my apologies for the redundancy. My most valuable aid in rigging is the Lazy Susan to swing the ship back and forth while installing and tensioning shrouds and stays.post-68-0-06179800-1361772472.jpg

 

Another is a means of serving shrouds at the mast tops, the leading shroud at each mast and portions of the stays.  This is a simple rig from "Ships Ahoy" models.post-68-0-07115400-1361772643.jpg

 

Some form of third hand is virtually mandatory for complex splices, rigging blocks, adding a running line to blocks, etc.post-68-0-10043400-1361772754.jpg

 

My instruments concist of a heavy duty needle driver with cross serrations in the jaws for grasping (left), a fine smooth jaw needle holder for fine instrument ties (2nd from left),  angled forceps that can reach just about anywhere and sharp serrated scissors that will cut on the knot.  One hears comments such as "I hate C/A" or "Of course one can't usa C/A in the rigging."  I aggree with Ed Tosti, with his magnificent scratch built Victory, that there are rigging challenges that I could not do without it. Of course if it irritates one's nasal cavity or bronchi, better stick to white glue or work with an open window.  I keep a tiny cup of fast C/A glued to a piece of wood (non-spill) with a small applicator or toothpick, rolling each on a paper towel after each application. These will last for an all day session.post-68-0-27703000-1361773550.jpg

 

One can't have enough small clamps or alligator clips.  With a bit of masking tape over the teeth, they will hold the smallest thread.post-68-0-71863600-1361773676.jpg

 

Beginning with the shrouds, these were laid on following the JoTika plans and McGowan's book with McKay's drawings.  Each shroud with deadeye measured and labelled.post-68-0-48942600-1361773869.jpg

 

All shrouds served at mast.post-68-0-34886300-1361773923.jpg

 

Shrouds attached alternating starboard to port to even tension.post-68-0-81912600-1361774007.jpg

 

Deadeyes and lashing of shroudspost-68-0-87089200-1361774070.jpg

 

Graph paper on cardboard to align the futtock stave and later for rat lines.post-68-0-58991000-1361774463_thumb.jpg

Deadeyes at main mastpost-68-0-56846700-1361774582.jpgpost-68-0-89052500-1361774627.jpg

 

Pendants made with served line around a bullseye and an eye splice. Good seamanship often favored a tapered splice.post-68-0-95661600-1361774772.jpg

 

To simulate a tapered eye splice, sieze the bight with several turn (I prefer repeated half hitches, alternating the diredtion of the turn with each hitch).post-68-0-46811100-1361775005.jpg 

 

Follow by separating and cutting off one strand and sieze a few more turns.post-68-0-02267300-1361775097.jpg

 

Cut another strand plus a few more turnspost-68-0-44981600-1361775176.jpg

 

Finally cutting the last strand plus siezing and one has the appearance of a tapered splice.post-68-0-72594400-1361775269.jpg

 

Another advantage of C/A glue.  If one is left with a protuding stump, a light clamping before the glue has cured will reshape it.post-68-0-11006100-1361775516.jpgpost-68-0-21593600-1361775540.jpg

 

Making the catharpins with eye splices at each endpost-68-0-31058500-1361775609.jpg

 

Catharpins can be seen lashed to the futtock stavespost-68-0-42785700-1361775678.jpg

 

Futtock shrouds in placepost-68-0-74917900-1361775735.jpgpost-68-0-40006300-1361775777.jpg

 

Mizzen shroudspost-68-0-39085600-1361775864.jpg

 

Top mast shroudspost-68-0-46955200-1361775913.jpgpost-68-0-86587900-1361775940.jpgpost-68-0-81054500-1361775968.jpg

 

Lining up fore mast, main mast and mizzen while adjusting tension port and starboard.post-68-0-07436900-1361776062.jpg

 

Shroud cleats in placepost-68-0-72199400-1361776117.jpg

 

Bullseye attached to base of topmast shroud deadeye, to be swung inboard to receive topgallant shroudpost-68-0-71527000-1361776245.jpg

 

Topgallant shroud after Longridge. post-68-0-78559100-1361776331.jpg

 

Topgallant shroudspost-68-0-00532300-1361776418.jpg

 

Topgallant shrouds pass inboard of staves in topmast shroudspost-68-0-12688200-1361776506.jpg

 

Terminate with lashing to bullseye attached to base of deadeyepost-68-0-78742700-1361776612.jpgpost-68-0-03498700-1361776633.jpg

 

Shrouds in place.  Ratlines will be shown as a separate topic.post-68-0-82215000-1361776721.jpg

 

I would suggest completing rat lines before tying down the topgallant shrouds, sliding backstay, breast backstay, etc. It's much easier to tie rat line without adjacent lines interfering.post-68-0-45924000-1361776901.jpg

 

To be continued................

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Gil,

I'd like to add my thanks for uploading the build log. It'll be a constant source of reference and awe as I strive to complete my Victory.

Best regards

Jim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gil

Well this is exellent, over such a short period of time. I was only waiting for the fitting of the rudder to bring me back up to date. Thanks for giving my plans back. Regards DAVID

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Daniel,  I am remiss in not keeping up with your log and others, however, I'm still learning how to use the new site and above all to restore the build site.  It should be done in a day or so, when I can sit back and enjoy the work of our many friends on MSW.  I'll even have a few new photos to post.

David and Jim, It's nice to know someone actually reads all this stuff.  I've certainly learned my share before "the crash of 2013,"  We're all learning from each other and it will be good to get back in stride.  Cheers, Gil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On with reloading the build site.

 

RIGGING THE FORESTAYS AND PREVENTERS

 

Experimenting with a mouse and eye for the forestay.  Forming the eye with served line.post-68-0-27168700-1361831413.jpgpost-68-0-10816300-1361831465_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-85672400-1361831495.jpg

 

Forming the mouse with extra winding.post-68-0-44115400-1361831558.jpg

 

Mouse and eyepost-68-0-93919900-1361831604.jpg

 

Bow sprit collar (served)post-68-0-01999100-1361831659_thumb.jpg

 

Attaching bow sprit collar with lashing between eyespost-68-0-50765700-1361831731_thumb.jpg

 

The forestay and mainstay are served at the mast to just beyond the mouse, and wormed from there on.  Serving the forestay.post-68-0-36455000-1361831869_thumb.jpg

 

Backwinding to begin the mousepost-68-0-02567500-1361831921_thumb.jpg

 

Winding to build the mouse. A little C/A helps build the trailing end and serving continues just beyond the mouse.post-68-0-90894400-1361832050_thumb.jpg

 

Serving ended by passing thread through the stay.  I did not glue and cut this worming line until the three worming lines were passed. It is nearly impossible to pass a needle through C/A treated line.post-68-0-17191800-1361832339_thumb.jpg

 

Three strands passed through the stay to begin worming.post-68-0-29016800-1361832429_thumb.jpg

 

Worming the forestaypost-68-0-81679200-1361832486_thumb.jpg

 

Served on right, Wormed on left.  Mouse to be added.post-68-0-80050700-1361832553_thumb.jpg

 

Forestay and preventer at fore toppost-68-0-02028900-1361832663_thumb.jpg

 

Mouse and eye (served).  Starting lacing line between stay and preventer.post-68-0-92006900-1361832807_thumb.jpg

 

Forestay and preventerpost-68-0-61088100-1361832865_thumb.jpg

 

Attached at bowsprit to served collars with lashings.post-68-0-64092800-1361832998_thumb.jpg

 

Main stay and preventer at main toppost-68-0-64914800-1361833062_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-82157700-1361833101_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-46153800-1361833142_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-39815400-1361833174_thumb.jpg

 

Attached to collars around the bow spritpost-68-0-97761600-1361833256_thumb.jpg

 

Main top mast shroud and preventerpost-68-0-47166400-1361833329_thumb.jpg

 

At fore toppost-68-0-90065000-1361833385_thumb.jpg

 

To lashing at deck eyepost-68-0-82798200-1361833441_thumb.jpg

 

Mizzen top mast staypost-68-0-17907200-1361833525_thumb.jpg

 

Mizzen stay and top mast staypost-68-0-61891600-1361833598_thumb.jpg

 

Mizzen staypost-68-0-21569100-1361833645_thumb.jpg

 

Main top mast stay and preventerpost-68-0-55122800-1361833698_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-57164500-1361833735_thumb.jpg

 

Main sliding backstaypost-68-0-66917600-1361833788_thumb.jpg

 

Main breast backstaypost-68-0-48225500-1361833848_thumb.jpg

 

Foremast sliding backstaypost-68-0-04198800-1361833906_thumb.jpg

 

Foremast breast backstaypost-68-0-44923700-1361833953_thumb.jpg

 

All stays and backstays were left adjustable until final tensioning and alignmentpost-68-0-57814500-1361834050_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-69242200-1361834081_thumb.jpg

 

PHOTO  BACKDROP

 

About a year ago, Mike Graff gave our Puget Sound Ship Modellers (PSSM) group a superb well thought out presentation on improving our model photography.  The need was obvious.  Here, the Venetion blinds obscure the rigging details.post-68-0-27504500-1361834331_thumb.jpg

 

I tried poster board which was totally inaddaquate.post-68-0-81250200-1361834399_thumb.jpg

 

Finally, I obtained a "baby blue" pull down shade which should improve my posts from here on.post-68-0-20868600-1361834524_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-09198500-1361834556_thumb.jpg

 

Next up, Rat linespost-68-0-30984000-1361834645_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

17.    RATLINES

 

My first thought on ratlines is to complete them prior to some of the standing rigging.  Here the topgallant shrouds, lashed to bullseyes just inboard of the topmast shrouds, play havoc with tying the ratlines.post-68-0-68970500-1361835021_thumb.jpg

 

The second thought is I rather wish I had gone with black thread.  The natural thread contrasted with the black shrouds makes the ratlines appear almost white by comparison.post-68-0-29270400-1361835225.jpg

 

The result is that one's attention is drawn to the ratlines rather than the more important rigging that supports them.  I tried toning down the contrast by painting the ratlines with a "black wash" (very dilute black paint) with some success.post-68-0-56101100-1361835417_thumb.jpg

 

Graph paper used to align the futtock stave and ratlines.post-68-0-17289600-1361835484_thumb.jpg

 

The color contrast appears less intrusive with less intense lighting.post-68-0-87948900-1361835589.jpg

 

I began with clove hitches but switched to overhand knotspost-68-0-74190000-1361835681.jpg

 

Overhand knots resulted in only one line around the dtay rather than two with the clove hitchpost-68-0-26983200-1361835762.jpg

 

Ratlines on main mast.post-68-0-80132600-1361835809.jpg

 

On futtock shroudspost-68-0-55329700-1361835861.jpg

 

Top mast shroudspost-68-0-01606200-1361835904.jpg

 

Inboard view of top mast shroudspost-68-0-45066500-1361835952_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow! You wormed your stays before serving?

 

Does worming improve the lay of the serving?

 

Looking A+++ as usual. Thanks Gil!

 

Harvey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gil,

 

    I am thinking that second time around is better than the first time I see this part of the update. Keep the post coming.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

18.     RUNNING RIGGING

 

Finally the running rigging.  This will bring the build log up to date, with a few new photos at the end.  There are still a number of small details  to add on the ship such as boomkins (deferred in order not to knock them off), lanterns, etc. and much more running rigging so I'll probably be busy for another year.  Work on our real boat begins in March to prepare it for summer cruising, so priorities will change. Grant (gdale) will pass me by and I'll get to study his rigging before making mistakes.  It's a relief to have the build log back in place and to see others taking shape. MSW is alive and well, and our sincere thanks to all the moderators who have suffered through the trials. Our inconvenience is but a fraction of their increased work load, dedication and frustration. Thanks you!!!

 

On with the rigging.  On the right, the initial square jeer block.  Center: sanded and stained with "English Oak"post-68-0-98601500-1361837223_thumb.jpg

 

Lower and upper jeer blocks.  Indentations for double stropping.  These massive blocks were 26" long on the real ship.post-68-0-70193500-1361837367_thumb.jpg

 

Experimenting with yard lift and battens (styrene) at central yerdpost-68-0-80997100-1361837453_thumb.jpg

 

Battens and iron bandspost-68-0-99121600-1361837503_thumb.jpg

 

Double stropped jeer blocks (served)post-68-0-29276000-1361837585_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-50079100-1361837614_thumb.jpg

 

Warps of rope to support jeer blockspost-68-0-46092900-1361837763_thumb.jpg

 

Lower: Main yard with battens, iron bands and yard cleats.  Next up: studing sail (stuns'l)) booms. Middle: Foremast yard, tapered by sanding with power drill lathe (ends to be cut off).  Supplied stuns'l rings too large.  Replaced by cut section of styrene tubing (5.5mm diameter)post-68-0-41889200-1361838095.jpg

 

Rigging for yard lift, jeer blocks (double stropped), all servedpost-68-0-49591600-1361838183_thumb.jpg

 

Supplied stuns'l boom rings and replacementpost-68-0-17798800-1361838261_thumb.jpg

 

Central yard, plus iron bands and yard cleatspost-68-0-71596100-1361838317_thumb.jpg

 

Yard cleats.  "bolts" are .035" rivets.post-68-0-63179200-1361838427_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-93974700-1361838456_thumb.jpg

 

Fittings at end of yardpost-68-0-15605400-1361838507_thumb.jpg

 

post-68-0-83829400-1361838555_thumb.jpg

 

Main yardpost-68-0-47469700-1361838593_thumb.jpg

 

Stuns'l boom rings.  Stirrups for foot rope (horse) from 24g dark annealed wire with thread lashing around yard.post-68-0-27605300-1361838764_thumb.jpg

 

Siezing around wire to simulate eye splice supporting foot ropepost-68-0-12899000-1361838892_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-34541100-1361838920_thumb.jpg

 

Styrene and square brass rod for stuns'l boom supportpost-68-0-85959600-1361839011_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-32431100-1361839076_thumb.jpg

 

Yard rigged with yard sling,jeer blocks, yard lift blocks, horse and stirrups and Flemish horses at ends.post-68-0-36140200-1361839231_thumb.jpg

 

Jeer blocks with lashing through eye splices from stroppingpost-68-0-31865600-1361839318_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-43952500-1361839430.jpg

 

Stuns'l booms addedpost-68-0-64598200-1361839497.jpgpost-68-0-94260700-1361839529.jpg

 

Brass wire to pin yard to mast (to stabilize yard for rigging)post-68-0-04618100-1361839607_thumb.jpg

 

At last, the build log is up to date.  The next few pictures are work done just before the crash and not yet posted.  Cheers, Gil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Joe.  I hope you're back to modeling before long.

Harvey, I'm not that clever.  I served the stay to just beyond the location of the mouse and then wormed it from there on.  Perhaps I should have done what you describe.  Gil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

RUNNING RIGGING  Continued.   New posts

 

Foremast yard with yard sling.  Yard pinned to mast for stability with brass wire drilled into mast and yard, + C/A gluepost-68-0-94223500-1361852066_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-31604100-1361852125_thumb.jpg

 

Yard sling plus jeer blocks.  Timber hitch on yard leads to upper jeer block, and from blocks leads down to deck. Yard jeer blocks lashed to yard through eyes in tail of double strops.post-68-0-60689000-1361852326_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-18950200-1361852748_thumb.jpg

 

Truss pendants. Each passes around back of mast, through bullseye lashed to yard on the opposite side and down to deck.post-68-0-09748400-1361852796_thumb.jpg

 

Rigging truss pendants to block and tacklepost-68-0-58658200-1361853014_thumb.jpg

 

Main mast truss pendants terminate at block and tackle to deck eyebolt and finish at cleat at base of mast.  Jeer blocks line terminates through sheeve in the main top bowline bitts just aft of the main mast.  Yard topping lift terminate through sheeves in the kevel at bulworks (below forward shroud).post-68-0-37007600-1361853319_thumb.jpg

 

Topping lift.post-68-0-11153000-1361853394_thumb.jpg

 

Foremast yard topping liftpost-68-0-79725200-1361853447_thumb.jpg

 

Foremast yardpost-68-0-24178000-1361853485_thumb.jpgpost-68-0-43732800-1361853509_thumb.jpg

 

Jeer blocks line terminates at fore top bowline bitts (aft of fore mast), truss pendants to tackle forward of mast and tooping lift to kevels at bulworkspost-68-0-43073800-1361853653_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Superb craftsmanship as always Gil. Your posts on the early stages of the Running Rigging will be a great help to me - very soon! I was interested in your reflections on your ratlines. Indeed it was your comment that helped me to decide on going with black ratlines and I'm very pleased I did. I have however, stuck with clove hitches for all the ratlines. To be honest, I'm not sure that most observers would be able to tell the difference anyway.

I'm not sure I'll overtake you - somehow work and life seem to conspire to severely limit my shipyard time!

 

Cheers,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Gil,

I'm Jerry and I just started bilding HMS Victory like yours.  I have a question that I hope you will answer for me.  Did your bulkheads fit the slots of the keel immediately or did you have to trim (sand) the slots to make the pieces fit?  Thanks for your answer or anyone elses answer who may read this.

 

Jerry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...