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Grants Triton (COMPLETE)


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Wow Love the outside planking look that you are using. Also thinking about using brass cannons myself.

Grant what scale is it that you are using?

Also I like the way that your doing the decking and planking, leaving areas open to show the work under. NICE!

 

Might I ask what wood did you use where? That's a big question as I can see a lot of different woods being used.

Wow! just has to be said again. Nice Work.

 

Later 42rocker

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Thanks for the interest and kind words guys.

42rocker, scale is 1:48 as per the plans. The cannons will eventually be chemically blackened. Regarding timber, the "orange" coloured timber is Fijian mahogany, dark red timber is jarrah, the deck and exterior hull planking is probably Tasmanian oak, though I'm not entirely sure. The jarrah and Tassie oak are recycled from old kitchen cabinet carcases. Old timber tends to be of a better quality.  If you are going to all the trouble of framing the deck, might as well show it off.

 

Grant.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Snowmans. Progress has been a little slow, all the gun carriages are complete, just need to blacken the barrels to finish.

 

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Due to numeracy issues, I have too few ring bolts. So here is a 'how to' for any that are interested.

The copper wire (stripped from electrical cabling) is approximately 0.5mm diameter and has been annealed to soften it, the rings are formed around the shank of a 1.8mm bit.

 

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The spiral is then cut using a jewllers saw.

 

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The rings removed, separated and sqeezed together.

 

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A small amount of silver solder paste is placed on the joint, then heated until the solder melts. I'm using a cheap pencil torch. Followed by a quick touch up with a file.

 

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Bent wire can be straightened by rolling under a timber strip. The wire end needs to be flat to give a good contact with the opposing surface, (solder paste is not good at filling gaps).The eye of the bolt is formed around the shank of a 1.0mm bit, then opened up and the ring attached, then squeezed shut.

 

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A dob of solder is applied as before, the ring is gripped with pliers (this also provides a heat sink to protect the existing joint), making sure the eye of the bolt is level or tipped slightly backwards, otherwise solder will run with gravity around to the ring fusing the pieces :angry:.

 

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Grip the assembly in pliers and straighten, then cut it off.

 

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This is not a difficult task, just fiddly. The tools and materials are cheap, you have no excuse. :)

 

Regards,

Grant.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pete, Ron & Joss, thanks for the comments. It's a public holiday here today, so, apart from a reasonably brief foray for coffee and browsing the discount racks at a dress shop with the Admiral, all day has been in the workshop.

Blackening the ringbolts and cannon barrels. Everything I know about this came from a tutorial by Pat (Banyan) in MSW 1.0. I'm using this product diluted at the ratio of 3 parts solution to 7 parts demineralised water.

 

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The ringbolts were left in a citrus (white vinegar works also, I believe), pickling solution for about an hour, then scrubbed with a toothbrush in an acetone bath. For the black to properly work, the metal needs to be completely cleaned of all dirt, grease etc.

 

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They were dunked in the dilute solution for about 1 minute, rinsed off and allowed to dry. The strainer/cradle idea courtesy of Bosco (Ship ModellingFor Dummies, I think)

 

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The cannon barrels were treated to the same scrubbing in acetone, supported by a sling they were dunked in the dilute solution for 1.5 minutes. You need to make sure the solution gets inside the barrel by poking a thin wire in whilst it's submerged. Rinse thoroughly and  drip dry. A syringe is needed to inject water to clean out the solution from inside the barrel. In spite of the scrubbing, 2 of the barrels were duds and had to be redone.

 

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The barrel on the right has been rubbed with a soft cloth to finish, this removes excess chemical residue.

 

Regards,

Grant.

 

 

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Daniel,

glad to be of help to you.

The gun assemblies are finally complete, time required:10 weeks. For a first attempt at this stuff, I'm  satisfied with the result. This model was supposed to be finished for my sons last birthday, I'll be lucky to finish in time for the next one. Still, haste makes waste.

 

post-666-0-24505900-1362653626.jpgpost-666-0-42971000-1362653662.jpgpost-666-0-45458800-1362653681.jpg

 

Grant.

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Grant

 

Beautiful work on the guns. If I were your son I would be very proud to receive such a gift. I can only hope that I will do such a great job on mine when the time come to do my first guns.

 

Where did you find all the information on the guns? Is there somewhere on MSW that has all the information with regards to dimensions for all the guns sizes? I mean for turning them on the lathe, brass rod size, scale size and barrel sizes, 9 Pound, 12 Pound and such or did you find the information from an outside source. I think that info would be great to have in my things to know database.  

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We provided drawings for every part of the cross section, including the guns and the carriages etc. These are available to the members of the Triton build group.

 

For dimensions of guns, we used Lavery's Arming and Fitting and for carriages we used the excellent article in Nautical Research Guild's Shopnotes.

 

Very nice guns and carriages, Grant. Good work.

 

Russ

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Lovely work on the cannons, Grant.  Very well done.   You might want to adjust the quoins a bit.  With the deck round-up, your guns are aimed downward.

 

On second look, I think you have the trucks reversed... the smaller ones should be in the back, the larger ones in the front. This should get your barrels raised.

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Mark:

I could not see any real difference in the trucks from front to back. They look about the same size. But you right that there should be larger trucks forward and smaller in back. However, I think that if he pulls the quoin a bit further back, that might do the trick.

 

Russ

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