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18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways


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Hello everyone,
 
This is my very first model ship build and I am very happy to be posting it on MSW. I'm finding out that model ship builds are quite unique and challenging. You don't have to try it first to know that. Just reading the build logs on MSW is enough. There is a lot to learn for sure. I chose the Longboat because it seemed like a good place to start as a first build. I have read every build log for this boat and I just want to say what a great job everyone has done. I have learned a lot and I would appreciate any help or suggestions that you might have as I move ahead.

 

Using very thin plastic tape which goes around curves easily, I was able to sand away without going past the bearding line. A few strokes after removing the tape finishes the work. I used 1/4" tape but somehow I lost the package. See below for the same product but a different width.

 

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A simple way to line up the bulkheads square to the false keel. The bulkhead tops were aligned by eye after the first one was squared in both directions. I found that using Elmers Carpenters Wood Glue gave me approximately 5 minutes to check things over both ways before the glue started to set. Since it is water based I sanded a tad more clearance between the bulkheads and false keel to allow for swelling.

 

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I will use this sticky back sandpaper and a "T" sanding block made from 1/8" balsa to fair the hull. I Left the transom off for now.

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I found that close pins worked fine here without any worry of creating dents.

 

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Made this template from balsa to mark location of the shear line which turned out to be inaccurate. One strake ended up slightly lower than the other. At the time I went with it anyway.

 

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Shear strakes in place.

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Garboard planks installed

 

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Lesson learned. . .never try and build when you are sick, coughing and medicated. After ten days and 75% of the planking completed I started to realize that the front end was not going to close up properly with the last plank. The first mistake was tapering the garboard plank too abruptly. Not only were all subsequent planks a nightmare to edge bend at such an extreme curve but doing so prevented each plank from going forward enough to fill in the bow area, I think. Also, Chuck pointed out that I tapered the second plank down from the shear line to nearly a point at 1/64" when I should have only removed 1/64" to produce a very slight taper instead. Really dumb as I misread the instructions.

 

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Frustrated and wanting to kick myself, but not one to give up easily, I carefully removed all the planks as well as the keel and stem. The kit provides an extra set of these. To be honest I didn't know that I would be successful tearing everything down but it all worked out fine. I'm glad I used Elmers Carpenters glue and not CA.

 

Here you can see the new garboard plank with a much more gradual taper. As described in Bob F's log, http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/page-2, I transferred a tick mark to each bulkhead.


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Shear strake and following strake installed. This time I tapered the second strake just a bit as per Chuck's instructions. Shot was taken at and angle giving a distorted few of the other side of the boat.

 

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Thanks again to Bob F. and Chuck for all your help!

 

Finally! for what seemed like forever, the planking is finished and 95% sanded. Prior to sanding I used these. . http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020022/19046/Curved-Scraper-Set-of-4.aspx. . which I found very useful. They allow the removal of just the high spots thus saving as much plank thickness as possible. I suggest that anyone doing the Longboat should read Bob F's log. . . http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/?hl=%2018th%20%20century%20%20longboat. . . which contains very useful tips and how to's on planking the longboat from both his initial comments as well as his comments from the dialog he and I had on page 8. I did the planking with 11 strakes which worked out well. I had thought that I would have to taper the strakes at the stem to almost 1/16" but that turned out not to be the case. The most I had to reduce each plank by was no more than around .030. I found the last plank on each side to be the most difficult to make since it had to fit between 2 planks. I tried spiling them but the angles and curves made it difficult to do. Perhaps there is an article on MSW on the best way to do this.

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Edited by Stuntflyer
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  • 3 weeks later...

Very nice...although the photo of the bow fully planked should be flatter,.    See this image of your model.  You planking comes to a point on an angle and this may make it difficult to put the caprail on effectively.  The cap rail should be flat just abaft the stem.  I am not sure how you will achieve this however if the sheer planks followed the path of the green line it would be much easier.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Chuck

 

planking.jpg

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Chuck, I see what happened. The stem has an indent(for lack of a better word) in it's profile. Instead of leaving clearance for the cap rail I ran the shear plank up tight against the indent. I checked the measurements on each bulkhead from their tops down to the top of the shear plank and they are all correct. It's only after "H" that I pushed the shear strake up into the indent. This is what created the extreme curve in the front. In order to clear for the cap rail I would have to remove 1/32" from the top of the shear plank and gently taper the shear plank aft. I doubt if this would totally remove all of the the curve however. This would also probably create a problem for the frieze fitting nicely into a constant shear plank height. I'm not quite sure how to get around this one. Unless I start over AGAIN!!!! LOL!

Edited by Stuntflyer
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Planking at the bow should have a gentle "S" curve where it flattens out as it butts the stem.   This creates the flat area from one side of the stem to the other.  To better explain see this new doctored image which is a corrected version of your planking.  Although exaggerated a bit.

 

Chuck

 

plankshape.jpg

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Having stained a few small test pieces(roughly sanded)I noticed that using a 50/50 mix of Minwax Golden Oak and Natural produced some patchy spots whether I used the Minwax Pre-Stain or not.  I decided to compare the 50/50 mix with a mix of 1 part Golden Oak to 3 Parts Natural like Ryland Craze did on his build. I Pre-Stained the sample and waited an hour before applying the stains. The picture shows the untreated(roughly sanded)wood of the same color tone above the stained sample. The 1 to 3 mix on the left and the 50/50 mix on the right. I appears that using a lighter stain on basswood gives a better result. However, what I found was sanding the wood very smooth with 400 sandpaper before applying the stain gives good results whether using a light or dark stain.

 

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Edited by Stuntflyer
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Sam, Great advice, I will keep that in mind when I start the staining process.

 

Andy, One reason why I picked the Longboat was that it had both planking and rigging. I wanted to see if I could build it without making a mess of things. The planking was very challenging and I expect the same thing when I do the rigging. So, for sure, my next build will take rigging into the equation.

Edited by Stuntflyer
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  • 2 months later...

Decided to fix the shear plank by redoing the planking once more. I realize that I could have left things as they where but I need planking experience anyway. After sanding the hull with 400 sandpaper to a near sheen I applied the stain, 1 part Golden Oak to 3 Parts Natural and a coat of Wipe-On-Poly. After removing the bulkhead centers I thinned the bulkhead tops to 3/64". 3/64" + 1/32" plank + 1/64" overhang will give a 3/32" cap rail. I stained the hull inside as well. I then added the cap rail which is now ready for sanding.

 

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Edited by Stuntflyer
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First two friezes finished. Used Krylon Workable Fixatif 1306 to protect them and 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. If you happen to get some of the adhesive on the out side there is a great product called UnStik (see below) that will easily remove any excess without harming the frieze or the planking. I used it for many years when I was in the picture frame business. You can even use it on glossy photos.

 

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Edited by Stuntflyer
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David and Chuck, thanks! much appreciated. Chuck, you said in the Longboat Instruction Manual ". . take your time and treat each plank as a small milestone", which I think is great advice. I am trying to do this with each step regardless of how simple it may seem.

Edited by Stuntflyer
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Molding strip under friezes and some interior details completed. The red paint is much smoother than it appears here. I applied 4 coats thinned just a little bit with water. Used 1/64" and 1/32" shims to get the floor spacing as close to the plan as I could. The front platform required a lot of sanding and fitting to place it low enough thereby making room for the risers which I have yet to work on.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

More interior details completed. I ended up braking a thwart while trying to get it under the cap rail. Fitting them close to the inner hull width means that one has to bend them slightly and they can break easily. Raising one end up so it touches the cap rail makes it easier to insert the other end. I'm still working on the wider thwart for the mast and need to paint the filler piece at the bow red.

 

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Locker and cockpit details completed. The hinges were made as Chuck suggests in his build log using card stock and 28 gauge wire. I know that the contemporary model calls for a red cockpit but it ended up not looking very authentic when painted on such a broad surface using a brush. I was trying to get a even coverage but it didn't work out. I decided to do the cockpit area over again. The instructions say that using stain here is okay.

 

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Edited by Stuntflyer
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