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Schooner Yacht Atlantic by Kevin from Hampton Roads - Scientific - Old kit started in 1988

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Yesterday while I was in the garage looking for tools I came across a model I started back in 1988/9. I never got a chance to finish the model because I joined the Navy. I thought this had been lost over the years so was a nice surprise.

I did not plan to start another build log until I was further along on the Ship's boat kit, but I need to soak some of the strips before I could continue. This gives me something to do while waiting on the other project.


I had completed the work on the hull and was working on the deck fixtures when i left off.


I believe I still have all of the parts.


The bulwark on the starboard side was cracked either from age or being banged around. All of the fixtures that had been fixed to the deck had fallen off.


Today I just plan to glue the crack in the bulwark. I cut a piece of bamboo to use as a spreader to push the bulwark out while the glue dried.




After the glue dries I will sand the crack and repaint the ship.


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I was searching the web and found these images of the Schooner Atlantic.Painting-of-the-original-Schooner-Atlant



In 2010 a full size replica was built.



In all of the pictures of the original Atlantic, the hull is a dark color and the reproduction the hull is black. The kit had me paint the hull ivory. I am thinking about changing the hull to black to better match the original. What do you think?

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I got some time to work on the Atlantic this weekend and here is where it is at. Greg, green is my favorite color,but I decided to paint it black to better match the original.


I also made 25+ eye bolts from some very fine wire wrapped around 20 gauge wire. Then drilled and mounted them on the deck.



I also mounted the bowsprit. I added some wood putty to fill in the gaps.


Edited by Kevin from Hampton Roads
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I worked on the Mast and Bowsprit Spreaders. They are made from 20 gauge steel wire. The directions have you glue the stays to the end of the spreaders. I decided to add eyes to the end of the spreaders. It has been years since I have soldered anything smaller then copper pipe, but I figured I would try my luck. I dug out my old soldering iron but the only solder I could find was 3mm for plumbing. I did Ok on the mast spreaders despite the fact the soldering iron did not seem to be as hot as it should. The soldering iron actually stuck to the wire a couple of times.

The plan also has you solder the dolphin striker to bowsprit spreader. This is where a hotter iron would have been nice. After several failed attempts to solder the spreader and striker together, I decided to make the bowsprit parts out of wood dowel. After the parts dried I decided they were to large to use. I decided to give the soldering another try and I would skip soldering the parts together. The soldering iron worked perfectly today and the bowsprit parts came out looking than the mast spreaders.


I found the old pennys looking through boxes of old model parts. Thought I would hold onto them to use for size comparison.


I started this model in 1988 and found it in the cabinet a couple of week ago. I realized last week the hull was never carved completely. There is about a 1/4" to much in the bow. I apparently only sanded and then painted it. Looking at it and seeing the hull not shaped correctly bothered me, but I kept telling myself that no one would notice. Well I did not listen. This evening I took the knife to it.




It is still not the correct shape, but the bow has the correct rise and at the casual glance it looks correct.

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Had some free time today due to the weather, so I finished carving and sanding the hull. The instructions have no cross sections to check the hull with so the shaping of the hull was pure guess work. I decided that the keel should be more obvious.


The next step is to paint the hull again this weekend.

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I have not made much progress of late. My shipyard in in my sun room and it is currently 52F.  I need to re-paint the hull on the Atlantic which requires me to re-mark the waterline. The cradle that came with the kit is not stable enough to mark a straight line so I made one from some scrape plywood. No if it would warm up enough to work I will get it painted.



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I have completed repainting the hull. I decided to go with pretty look, instead of authentic or real look. So I used semi gloss red and black paint for the hull. I figure the shiny paint will awe my audience and they won't notice any mistakes.



The red paint is actually pretty thick. I used a black sharpie to mark the waterline. It took 3 coats to cover the marker. I will never us a sharpie again (fingers crossed, it usually takes a couple of times for me to learn from my mistakes).





The black paint is a little thick as well. It was drying as fast as I put it on. I just looked over at my ship yard and spied the ceiling fan running on high. A little late I guess.


Well I guess I can't put off working on the masts and rigging any longer.


Till next time, see Ya!

Edited by Kevin from Hampton Roads
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Thanks, I may have to do that. I believe the softest pencil I have is an HB and that is what I started with. I use a H6 for marking wood for cutting. You have to have good lighting to see it.

Edited by Kevin from Hampton Roads
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  • 3 weeks later...

Today I finished putting the Masts together. The instructions have you cut 1/16" strips of paper and wrap it around the mast 5 times, then around the mast and topmast 4 times.


The first attempt looked better than I was expecting, but was to large. I thought about making the caps out of wood. I made 1 from a scrap piece of wood as a trial. It only looked marginally better than the paper and involved a lot of sanding and shaping. I decided to stick with the paper strips. 

Here is how they turned out.



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I was glad to see how the paper strip mast assembly worked out. My Scientific kit Bounty uses the same technique, and I was worried how well it would work. I am a couple of steps from building my masts.


Following you build with great interest.



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