Jump to content

Table Saw Hand Safety


Recommended Posts

Like robnbill I also have a woodworking shop. A Sawstop is next on my list. It is an exceptionally well made saw and cost about the same as a comparable cabinet saw. Contrary to popular belief, the saw does not have to be rebuilt if the cartridge is activated. One other point to remember is to avoid ripping short pieces. I do my jointing, planing, and ripping before crosscutting to length. As several other members said...trust your gut. If you feel uneasy about a proceedure, find an alternative method.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know why anyone invented it, but I used a push stick that I inherited from my father that was Aluminum - plastic grip - inch scale engraving.  It came in contact with the blade and removed a carbide tooth.  What was a smooth running expensive Freud rip blade was then out of balance.  I had the tooth repaired, but I suggest using Fir or Pine from a scrap 2 x 4 or furring strip to make a push stick. Use one for each hand.

Ripping (resawing) is best done with a band saw.  You can use short pieces of wood, no kickback and the kerf is significantly less.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For my little table saw, I use a couple of largish chopsticks.  They're dirt cheap, sacrificial, and being bamboo, pretty tough.   For the big saw, it's couple sticks of fir I picked up at Lowe's in the so-called "scrap bin".  Got them for I think 25 cents apiece.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is also a very nice tool called the MicroJig. It allows the control of both sides of the cut wood all the way through while keeping your hand away from the blade. 

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is also a very nice tool called the MicroJig. It allows the control of both sides of the cut wood all the way through while keeping your hand away from the blade. 

Funny you should mention that Bill.  Tonight I used the Microjig Grr-Ripper for the first time with my Byrnes saw and absolutely loved it.  I am surprised more people on here aren't using it.  It is fantastic - easy to use, keeps your hand away from the blade, and you no longer need to deal with featherboards, etc.  Well worth the money in my opinion.

 

I used it to saw 0.5mm maple sheets for deck planking.  I was having trouble cutting straight planks due to the fact that the wood was thin as paper and would slip under the fence at times, or even ride up over the blade.  The Micro jig worked like a charm and made cutting straight planks a breeze - and with 100% safety.  I wholeheartedly recommend it.

 

Here is a picture of it in case people are interested.

 

post-1194-0-53895700-1414039805.jpg

Edited by Landlubber Mike

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are there work gloves that would protect my hands from potential table saw damage?

 

In the past, I have used protective gloves when sculpting with knives and chisels but I am not sure they would offer much protection on a table saw. I understand about using push sticks etc. but I wanted to check and see if anyone knew of more effective protection that would allow me to work without hindrance.

 

My wife is buying me a mini table saw for my birthday and asked me to check.

 

Richard,

A piece of safety equipment that I haven't seen mentioned is "hearing protection"; Table saws and similar machines are very noisy and can damage your hearing over time. Safety glasses whether they are goggles, side shields or prescription safety glasses are also very important.

Current project: Retired

www.howefamily.com

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Safety glasses whether they are goggles, side shields or prescription safety glasses are also very important.

Safety Glasses is a big item that shouldn't be overlooked,

I couldn't agree more. A friend of mine had a near miss using his accu drill.

 

This, and the fact that it bothered me to always had to make two or three steps to grab my goggles when working with another tool were the driving factors for me to do a relatively cheap but very effective upgrade: every stationary powertool has now "its own" goggles, strategically placed in a way that I can't use the tool without moving the goggles "out of the way - onto my nose".

 

I got used to this system very quickly and shed live is now much easier (and a fair bit safer). When using an electric hand drill or a hand powered handdrill with very thin drill bits I reach for the goggles of the next powertool and put them back to their place when done.

post-15481-0-98338900-1414157681_thumb.jpg

Edited by nobotch

- Markus

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike,

 

    The Micro-Jig looks interesting but appears it is not useful for anything under 1/8" wide cut.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Funny you should mention that Bill. Tonight I used the Microjig Grr-Ripper for the first time with my Byrnes saw and absolutely loved it. I am surprised more people on here aren't using it. It is fantastic - easy to use, keeps your hand away from the blade, and you no longer need to deal with featherboards, etc. Well worth the money in my opinion.

 

I used it to saw 0.5mm maple sheets for deck planking. I was having trouble cutting straight planks due to the fact that the wood was thin as paper and would slip under the fence at times, or even ride up over the wheel. The Micro jig worked like a charm and made cutting straight planks a breeze - and with 100% safety. I wholeheartedly recommend it

Thanks for showing us this Mike. I've just ordered one! :) Edited by gjdale
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike,

 

    The Micro-Jig looks interesting but appears it is not useful for anything under 1/8" wide cut.

I guess for me, 1/8" or more picks up a lot of wood cuts.  If you wanted something smaller, I suppose you could always run the cut off the side of the blade opposite the fence?

Edited by Landlubber Mike

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for showing us this Mike. I've just ordered one! :)

Let us know what you think Grant.  I'm very much a novice at table saws, so I'm sure folks with more experience might be comfortable with featherboards, push sticks, etc.  I just had a hard time getting that to work, so tried this thing out and it's made a world of difference for me.  

 

I should add I have no connection with this company.  Just a very happy customer.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The largest difference this jig has over push sticks and feather boards is the ability to control both sides of the wood through the entire path of the cut. This ensures there is no kickback since the wood does not veer side to side during the cut. It does not allow for cuts smaller than 1/8th but as Mike said, that does leave lots of cuts it does work for. The interior of the jig is movable so it can be adjusted for the various size cuts.

 

It still can be used to cut smaller thicknesses if you have the cutoff to the left of the blade. The jig would just not straddle the blade and only be used on the part to the right. This still leave you more in control than just pushing the wood through from the end. 

 

I know others have used feather boards for this, but there is a guide for ripping thin sections for the table saw. It rides in the miter slot to the left of the blade. It has a wheel in the end to allow the wood to easily slip past. You set the width of the cut you want ( to the left of the blade) then slid the wood between the fence and the wheel. Make the cut and shift the fence to the left until the wood contacts the wheel again and make the second cut, snd so on.  This allows for consistent thickness cuts to the left of the blade. 

 

Anyway, both of these jigs/guides make my life easier and a bit safer. As Mike said, I don't have any interest in these companies other than I use their products. If you are interested both of these are available for a number of different sources on line.

post-10450-0-22617200-1414186264_thumb.jpg

Edited by robnbill

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having watched the demo videos (of the Microjig Grr-Ripper), my opinion is that this will get a lot of use in my workshop.  True, for widths smaller than 1/8" a different method will be needed, but there's still an awful lot of cutting to do at wider widths.  The fact that it can be used equally on the Byrnes saw or a full sized table saw (not to mention band saw, router table, etc) is a huge bonus.  I think this will be money well-invested, and being a safety item, there was no problem in gaining funds approval from the Admiral ;)

Edited by gjdale
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Come to think of it, I don't do MANY cuts under 1/8".  I look forward to hearing more.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bill,

I like the idea of the Thin Rip Jig but am using the Byrnes saw which has 1/2" wide by 1/8" deep slots. Based on your jig, is the slide easily changeable?

 

Richard

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have seen the results of accidents caused by inattentiveness caused by repetitive operations. That is when making multiple pieces. After 8-9 cuts ones motion tends to get a little automatic and thats when carelessness gets involved. BILL

Bill, in Idaho

Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015

Next  Model Shipways Syren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a shop made jig/fixture to cut repeated widths of thin stock.  The clamp is an old Xacto clamp that has been narrowed to fit into the slot of the Byrnes saw.  A mill is not needed - I used the carbide blade on the Byrnes saw to make the rabbet a close fit to the saw's miter groove.  The wooden jig piece needs to have the ends thicker then the center area to fit to the clamp.  I will be remaking the wooden piece from Plexiglas as this was just a test jig to get a job done.  Now that I know it works for me the upgrade to Plexiglas will follow.  The fixture is moved back, closer to the operator, when making cuts.

Kurt

post-177-0-02923300-1414251903_thumb.jpg

post-177-0-60953600-1414252110_thumb.jpg

post-177-0-01259800-1414252223_thumb.jpg

Edited by kurtvd19

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bill,

I like the idea of the Thin Rip Jig but am using the Byrnes saw which has 1/2" wide by 1/8" deep slots. Based on your jig, is the slide easily changeable?

 

Richard

That might be a bit of a challenge since it uses a double acting bolt. When you tighten the knurled knob on the top of the jig it swells the fitting riding in the miter effectively locking the jig in both directions. It could be replaced but it would require some ingenuity.

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For UK readers,

 

The thin rip guide featured in this thread is available in the UK from Axminster Tools who list it as the Axminster thin rip guide! It sells for £21.96

 

Mike.

Previous Build: LA gun deck cross section.
Previous Build: Lancia Armata. Panart 1:16
Previous Build: HMS Pickle. Jotika Build.

HMS Triton cross section 1:32.

Shelved awaiting improved skills:

Chuck"s Cheerful.

Current build.

Tender Avos.

HM cutter Alert.

 

 

:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

I've found after many years dealing with slow witted apprentices that K.I.S.S(keep it simple, stupid) works best.

 

So I just used to tell them "keep the soft fleshy bits away from the hard sharp bits. Works for any tool especially the thick ones...

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All,

 

I read through this entire topic and I don't have much to add, except one of the first posts in the topic said to stick with hand tools if your frightened. While that's probably sage advice, after 40+ years around power tools, I have to admit, that after some of the things I've seen, I'm ALWAYS a bit afraid around table saws (large and small), band saws, lathes, and routers. I think a little bit of fear keeps me on edge and very focused on what I'm doing. Anyway, it works for me.

 

Best,

John

Edited by Landlocked123

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  I call that respect for the danger and power they have and the damage they can do if you are not paying attention.  

David B

Edited by dgbot
Link to comment
Share on other sites

See enough blood and it becomes hard to forget.

 

John

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is the reason I upgraded my table saw to a SawStop. I hope never to test it, but I think it still provides more margin of safety than any other saw out there. 

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Used all different types and sizes of power tools all my life, and knock on wood, only got wounded from one once. A nail-gun double-tapped on me while I was on a ladder and reaching up to nail an up-right 2 x 4 to the top header of a wall. Run the nail into the side of my finger just missing the bone. Never had a problem with any other tool. You just have to maintain the appropriate amount of respect and caution when using them. H--l, a car will kill you if you don't use your head, just like anything else.

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A while back, I saw those youtubes you mentioned. It is really an amazing technology! Does it add a lot to the cost of the machine? I would think that if it does, after a while it would even out as lawsuits against manufactures who don't provide it would add up. I can picture a lawyer in court asking a saw manufacturer "why is it sir you did not incorporate this safety feature in your product?"

 

Best,

John

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The cost is comparable to other saws of it's type. It is a damn good table saw on it's own. I really have enjoyed using it. Having a good, well tuned table saw and a sharp blade makes a world of difference. 

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There isn't a tool manufacturer out there that can build a "fool-proof" tool. It's a "buyer use at your own risk" type of thing if you hurt yourself. Provided, of course, the tool doesn't fly apart and works as it was designed to. 

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...