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Beef Wellington

HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 (First wooden ship build)

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Jason, I've seen a type of spray for the dust at the yard...

Is it an anti-dust type for compiouters etc? Some kind of them extrude small quantities of a liquid material (wich evaporates immediately) with the air, but I dont know whether is safe for the paint, varnish, etc...

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Hi Jason, I installed my Bowsprit at a fairly early stage mainly because I wanted to fit the gammoning before I finished off the headworks otherwise it can prove tricky to work the line.

 

I don't think there are any other issues in the timing of fitting the bowsprit; knocking it whilst working isn't really an issue, although I leave the Jib attachment until the last possible moment, as this is a high risk fitting.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

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@ Ferit, Alistair, Hamilton, Mort - as always, appreciate you looking over my shoulder and supporting

 

@ Dafi - thanks for taking time to stop by, this is a very humble build compared to your wonderful Victory!

 

@ Stergios - yes - the dust blower is the type used for computer keyboards, it works pretty well.  The only material that you see is just solidified carbon dioxide which forms during the rapid pressure release/gas expansion when sprayed from the can.  If you do see any, you're probably blowing too close with the nozzle, but even if you do, its harmless and evaporates (or more accurately sublimates) almost instantaneously.

 

@ B.E. - thanks for confirming...next step, attach the bowsprit and complete the gammoning.  Quick question - the instructions indicate to use 0.5mm thread for gammoning but not sure it looks right (too thin) and am tempted to go with 0.75mm.  I couldn't find what you had used on your Pegasus but it looks spot on.

Edited by Beef Wellington

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Hi Jason

 

I fitted all the deck fixings before installing the bowspirit and therefore didn't pin it in. If the bracing for the bowspirit is filed to the correct angle then the bowspirit will wedge itself in nicely. A bit of CA and all the subsequent gammoning and rigging and the bowspirit will not be moving anywhere.....!

 

Jim

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Hi Jason,

 

The Gammoning for Pegasus is 4½" circ which scales to 0.56mm diameter. I used  Morope 0.6mm diameter line which just happened to be spot on for scale.

 

Whichever you go for remember to allow a fair length to complete the gammoning including the frapping, I allowed 40" just to be sure.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

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@ Jim - I'm sure you're right, however, I'm paranoid with some of the 'hobbitses' that tend to touch things they know they shouldn't, I've already had to make a fix on one of the channels, the circumstances behind which it seems will never be known....

 

@B.E. - thanks as always, very helpful.  I've measured the supplied  "0.75mm" line and it seems closer in size (though larger) to 0.5mm than .75mm, I don't have any means to get a more precise estimate, but could be why that looks better.  The supplied 0.5mm looks to be smaller than .5mm by a tad.  Can't be too critical I suppose given the mass produced nature of these items and cost of the kit.  Next build I will definitely use Morope or similar from Chuck right from the start and plan the budget accordingly (not cheap but seems well worth it).

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Glued bowsprit in and completed the gammoning..

 

Used the supplied .75mm line, however I'd estimate its closer to the 0.6mm as estimated per B.E.s recommendation.  I like the way it turned out.  Found an online reference to show how the gammoning would have been done in practice and just followed that. http://modelshipmaster.com/about/tech23--bowspritgammoning.htm

 

post-891-0-41234600-1382144949_thumb.jpg

 

Bowsprit pinned for extra security, to ensure it was fully square at the cap a little adjustment was needed at the deck, either the dowel is slightly warped, or the hole in the hull is not in right place.

 

post-891-0-79320500-1382145072_thumb.jpg

 

The forebits are supposed to clamp the bowsprit, but the precut hole I found to be a little large which resulted in a large gap.  To tidy this up a bit more, I used a slice of dowel to simulate the end of the bowsprit...

 

post-891-0-11027500-1382145076_thumb.jpg

...and installed. It's a cheap 'trompe l'oeil', but it works.  You can also see the ringbolts installed for the two cannons, I'm guessing they should be there but as can be seen, there is very limited room here to manage a gun.  Still need to figure out how the fore ladders can be installed in a way that feels right.

 

post-891-0-02590400-1382145079_thumb.jpg

Edited by Beef Wellington

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Hamilton, Richard, Mike, Daniel, Sjors, Jim - thanks as always for looking in.

 

Apart from a few deck details, pumps (which I'm working on) and the shot garlands, pretty much ready to move onto the masts and spars, a step that will probably be a challenge. I'm sure it'll all work out fine when I get going, but definitely a bit apprehensive.

 

Bow area complete (the gap behind the aft grating will be covered by a shot garland, I miscalculated the deck planking at the time)...

 

post-891-0-43602800-1382395142_thumb.jpg

 

Flintlocks are now attached to the two cannons...

 

post-891-0-09250200-1382395147_thumb.jpg

 

Added some detail to the chimney...

 

post-891-0-85020800-1382395150_thumb.jpg

 

Wrapped the anchor cables around the bits, thought it makes it a bit more interesting (starboard being 'with the sun' and larboard 'against the sun' - love to know how those descriptions came into being. Although this is how they would have been used while anchored, it makes sense to me that they would also be wound on the bits as a safety measure in case an anchor became loosed during sailing, last thing you want would be anchor heading to the seabed while under full sail. At least that's what I'd do if I were captain...

 

post-891-0-73211200-1382395154_thumb.jpg

Edited by Beef Wellington

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Starboard -- from the steering oar or board side

 

Larboard I think corrupted to match starboard from loading side both I think originally Norse

Edited by SpyGlass

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sorry being dozey after midnight! Not heard the sun one except in relation to passages to India

where the starboard side was the sunny one on the way out - hence POSH expensive cabins Port Out Starboard Home

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Hi Jason,

 

I can magnify the pictures and when I do that, I don't believe that you are shaping and painting that wood.

I think it comes strait out of the box, painted and all !

Unbelievable neat and shapely …….

 

animaatjes-sjors-94584.gif

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Ferit, Sjors, Alistair, Stergios - you are too kind. I'm a 'nervous' builder, its only a by product of taking a lot of time over the seamingly smallest of tasks...maybe the Caldercraft '74 will be ready by the time I'm finished!

 

Spyglass - love that - "But if you ask the reason of this, many will be found who never though about it" (!!!) Never has a truer word been said. I may need to put that on my signature!

 

Hamilton - thanks. The rope was simple Amati 2mm line purchased separately. There is a photo here that shows the comparison to the kit supplied stuff. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/509-hms-snake-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-scale-1-64-first-wooden-ship-build/page-10#entry44872 It was quite stiff, so it was necessary to try 'stretch it out' for a few days to remove larger kinks. I then found that soaking it in warm water gave it sufficient play to attempt to simulate a natural lay. A few spots of glue were still necessary otherwise it still tended to levitate above the deck!

 

BE - appreciate the kind comment, means a lot from you but doubt there is much you could learn from me, quite the reverse. As always, its the builder who lives with his flaws and mistakes :-)

Edited by Beef Wellington

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Hi Jason, as I' m about to start the channels and drill the ringbolts holes etc

Could you please please help to locate the "Rigging Period Ship Models" pages that illustrate the whole procedure?

Thanks.

 

Stergios

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