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Onwards with the build, and onto the side rails and embellishments 

 

first off the list was the troublesome stern part of the kick board, the angle needed was tricky to get with the provided sapelli, the grain of almost all strips were to an angle rather than ripped straight, meaning any attempt at bending ended up with it flaking out at the bend.

Finaly, after about 5 attempts i had one i could work with

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from then on it was fairly easy sailing

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here it is blended in

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now for the uprights, these were spaced at 14mm

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the 'embelishments' took a fair chunk of time to make, and i wasn't too keen on them protruding from the sides, but this was just a case of what the kit called for, also i am awear that they dont continue around the stern on the actual ship but the kit instructions pictured them to

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post-6383-0-52482100-1395391857_thumb.jpg

 

Edited by Luca_B
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Very good, Luca

You follow plans well, even plans are quite different than CS in Greenwich on stern inside bulwark

 

Those white panels ... They take couple of months on my CS, and they are so small, you can not even sneeze when working with them

 

Realy nice looking inside bulwarks

 

Keep god work !

 

Nenad

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Hi Luca

  is there a reason why I'm unable to view your photos all I'm getting arew numbers and a jpg letters 

and when I try to click it, it starts buffing and never shows up, reason I want to follow your post is that 

 I also have the AL Cutty Sark  kit 

                                       Ronald 

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Hi Luca

  is there a reason why I'm unable to view your photos all I'm getting arew numbers and a jpg letters 

and when I try to click it, it starts buffing and never shows up, reason I want to follow your post is that 

 I also have the AL Cutty Sark  kit 

                                       Ronald 

 

 

Hi Ronald.

yeah the server for the site apparently had a glitch so i will have to reload my pictures again, will get onto it soon hopefully.

 

also a quick update.

first on the list was finishing off the railing.

The kit instructed to use 1x3 sapelli, which i thought wouldn't be thick enough, but used it anyway.

the upside was it was realy easy to shape to the curve, also it dosnt look too out of place there.

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Next I tackled the rub rails.

main problem with this was the bend at the stern, and limited material i had left for it.

Luckily i planned way ahead by buying the same dimension of styrene moulding.

This made making the curve a breeze.

I had seen this done on another log somewhere here, cant exactly remember where sorry

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post-6383-0-06032800-1395621469_thumb.jpg

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Nice job, Luca

 

You have got right angle and curve of stern profile, which is really tricky.

 

In the middle of the deck it seems that you had a small barely visible problem with the width of the bulwarks, or with a line of deck ?  It is not quite visible, but right on that place, I bumped in swamp, so I looked very carefully. Or, it is only angle of shooting ?

 

Keep good work

 

Nenad

Edited by Nenad M
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Nice job, Luca

 

You have got right angle and curve of stern profile, which is really tricky.

 

In the middle of the deck it seems that you had a small barely visible problem with the width of the bulwarks, or with a line of deck ?  It is not quite visible, but right on that place, I bumped in swamp, so I looked very carefully. Or, it is only angle of shooting ?

 

Keep good work

 

Nenad

Haha yeah it is a bit off, i only really noticed it a quarter of the way through, the problem was I thought just cutting mass strips at 5inch would work rather than slowing down and marking it all out on ply, I didn't think it would really matter back then, but of course I nearly lost sleep over the damn thing...

Lucky the caulk isn't as dark, it should be drowned out with all the fittings

 

Luca

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... it should be drowned out with all the fittings ...

 

 

 

Just like that. My mistakes are much bigger, and intend to overload whole deck to mask them. Yours are invisible. That is exactly point in one of my first posts about "not run" thing. Saving all lines and curvatures and angles of deck lines and hull lines in proper shape and proportion is pretty f*** thing to do. I discover this too late, you have better luck or more skill

 

Waiting for more of your good work

 

Nenad

Edited by Nenad M
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Thanks all for the kind words.

Bob, same felt here. I defiantly wouldn't have got this far by now without everyone's help and helpful build logs to get inspiration.

And yes Alistair, onto the much anticipated coppering!

 

First off i feel like an idiot, i may have wiped the SD card of the camera unknowingly.

Luckily only losing a small part of the build, but still wasn't too happy...

 

all i could salvage was one photo of drilling the port holes

 

post-6383-0-90899900-1396002451_thumb.jpg

 

anyway this is the stage i am at now.

Paint is down, with some touch ups needed, photo etch parts glued into place and also started with the first run of copper plates.

the copperline instructed by the kit felt to me to be way too low, opinions on where it is now before i get too ahead of myself?

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Thanks

Luca

 

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Paint is down, with some touch ups needed, photo etch parts glued into place and also started with the first run of copper plates.

the copperline instructed by the kit felt to me to be way too low, opinions on where it is now before i get too ahead of myself?

 

Luca,

 

It all depends which period you want to depict. The load line during the tea runs on China was higher than during the wool runs on Australia. I can get you the exact figures but I need to go out for a few hours. When I get back, I'll look it up.

 

Lou

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Luca,

 

It all depends which period you want to depict. The load line during the tea runs on China was higher than during the wool runs on Australia. I can get you the exact figures but I need to go out for a few hours. When I get back, I'll look it up.

 

Lou

I reckon ive nutted it out Lou, ive been looking through all pictures i could, especially your onedrive, and it looks to be alright.

this AL kit is more so on the 'stylized' side than 100% accurate replica ,what i am wanting to achieve on future models.

Next kit i buy or even scratch build i will research a bit more and spend a bit more where it counts, any ideas of good kit brands?

I have heard caldercraft is quite good, but Amati fittings are from what i have seen, quite accurate.

 

Thanks

luca

Edited by Luca_B
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For people taking the Accurate Approach: B) (like me, the nutty professor)

 

From the Original specification:

No.58 Yellow Metal Sheathing. Vessel to be sheathed from Keel to 18 ft water mark on top of paper and tar sheathing to be to be smoothly put on, sheets to be 22, 24, 26 oz. metal.

 

This applies to her period as a tea clipper. From this figure and the scale you are using you could calculate how high the the sheathing should go. During her wool period under Captain Woodget the load waterline was 20 ft. (higher than in the tea period, not lower as I wrote before) and the sheathing should end a bit above that.

 

Finally, for smart appearance the upper belt was raised a bit at both ends of the ship.

 

Lou

 

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Lou, what you meant was that she FLOATED higher right? ;) LOL

As far as raising the ends a bit, it was raised more in the bow and the reason was so that the bow didn't look droopy. Because the bow is closer to the centreline of the boat (obviously) a straight line will move further from the viewer when seen in profile view. By adjusting it up a bit aft and even a bit more forward, you compensate for this tromp d'oeuil. 

This slightly raised bit was the boot topping or boot top. Often times (though not in the case of our ship) a different colour of paint between the bottom paint/copper and her topside paint.

Edited by Sailor1234567890
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quick question, what would the preferred layout of the tiles be?

would it follow the same pattern of this picture?

i am unsure of what would be right for the cutty.

also this is my first coppering attempt, any help or tips would be much appreciated!

 

thanks 

Luca

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Edited by Luca_B
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I haven't a clue about the right height for the waterline for Cutty Sark. Overall your build looks amazing - very crisp and clean.

For the plating I suggest working from the keel upwards. That way if you do need to overlap the plates the lap will be on the upper side of the run. I found overlapping and avoiding stealers gave me the result I wanted. That said my hull is much more curved than Cutty Sark.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Your post beat mine. That looks like a very complex layout. Perhaps simplify with overlaps? I'm sure it is right but it just looks very difficult to do. Coppering isn't easy as I have found and just getting the hull coated is enough. Perhaps go for the two top lines of copper and then dress up from the keel? Or do a gore line and lay up from that? In any case I still reckon go from the keel up and you can overlap the plates as you need to.

 

Not much help I'm afraid, others may offer better.

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Thanks Al and Bob, yeah I know it isn't a clipper, was just wondering if we followed the same sort of guidelines.

I think I will just do the two waterline rows then come up from the keel as suggested.

Just wondering Bob, did you end up doing a row at the waterline, or sheared the last plates to the waterlines horizontal level?

I have looked through your log but it's hard to spot.

 

Thanks

Luca

Edited by Luca_B
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Lou, what you meant was that she FLOATED higher right? ;) LOL

In the tea period she floated higher (draught 17'6") so the upper sheathing belt ended lower. In the wool period she floated lower (draught 20') because of the heavier cargo, so the sheathing ended higher. Or the other way around. At the moment she doesn't float at all. :(

 

Lou

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