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Licorne (1755) by mtaylor - (POF) - 3/16 - French Frigate (Hahn) - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED


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Doesn't look bad to my eye Mark.  I know my first attempts at carving will be nothing short of laughable.  :P

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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Interesting method Mark; I am assuming you laser cut this then cleaned the char and did a bit of relief carving - did I get that right?

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Thanks for the comments and the "likes".

 

 

Interesting method Mark; I am assuming you laser cut this then cleaned the char and did a bit of relief carving - did I get that right?

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

Exactly Pat.  I couldn't (and I did try) cut something out that tiny to save my soul.  I did do a clean-up and relieve between "La" and "Licorne" but it was touch and go as even the smallest scalpel I have was almost too big.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Pretty cool!! Mark....

frank

completed build: Delta River Co. Riverboat     HMAT SUPPLY

                        

                         USRC "ALERT"

 

in progress: Red Dragon  (Chinese junk)

                      

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I think they look great Mark. Like you said, none of us have macro eyes, well all except maybe my boss but his eyes arent human.

 

I dont think you need to change anything, but if your goal was to have the letters stand proud, could you set the laser to remove everything but the letters?

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

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I dont think you need to change anything, but if your goal was to have the letters stand proud, could you set the laser to remove everything but the letters?

Sam

 

Dooohhhhhhh............ post-76-0-67529200-1444021299.gif    Now that the gauntlet has been tossed, I must try it.  Yeah... leave the letters and burn the area I want to shave down.... hmm... rats... still leaves clean up around them.  That probably won't work either.   Good idea though..... 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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RESPECT, Mark that looks fantastic, it looks to me that you have got it just about right. If it looks better in the flesh than in the picture then I would say your already there. :dancetl6:

 

I know it may be late but you have made a superb job on your stern counter, it certainly paid off to do the redo although it may not have seemed like it at the time. Lovely stuff. :)  :)

 

Kudos all round mate.

 

mobbsie

mobbsie
All mistakes are deliberate ( me )


Current Build:- HMS Schooner Pickle

 

Completed Builds :-   Panart 1/16 Armed Launch / Pinnace ( Completed ),  Granado Cross Section 1/48

Harwich Bawley, Restoration,  Thames Barge Edme, Repair / Restoration,  Will Everard 1/67 Billings 

HMS Agamemnon 1781 - 1/64 Caldercraft KitHM Brig Badger,  HM Bomb Vessel Granado,
Thames Steam Launch Louise,  Thames Barge Edme,  Viking Dragon Boat


Next Build :-  

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Mark

How bad is the char? You mentioned rubbing alchohal(?) to clean up most of it? Do you by any chance have one of those cheapie sand blasters? http://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-hopper-gravity-feed-spot-blaster-gun-95793.html

We use something similar at work to sandblast detail into foam for plugs with corn starch or baby powder. Turn the air down low.

Just a thought, again I think what you have looks great.

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

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Mark, you could also use a Macaroni chisel (yes, there is such a chisel and it's not made from semolina ;) ).  Pfeil makes them down to 4 mm in width. Some other brands may go as small as 2 mm. It has a square shape and cuts on three sides. Looks like picture below.  Would be far easier than trying to program the laser.  BTW I have two of these chisels.

$_35.JPG

 

 

Looks great as is tho. Nice job.

Edited by Jack12477
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Thanks for the "likes" and comments and for helping me push the envelope a bit further.

 

 

Mark

How bad is the char? You mentioned rubbing alchohal(?) to clean up most of it? Do you by any chance have one of those cheapie sand blasters? http://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-hopper-gravity-feed-spot-blaster-gun-95793.html

We use something similar at work to sandblast detail into foam for plugs with corn starch or baby powder. Turn the air down low.

Just a thought, again I think what you have looks great.

Sam

 

Sam, no sand blaster here.  The alcohol soak gets the smoke and much of the char off.  A bit sanding takes care of the rest.  :)   It's not so much the char that is the problem but the Euro Boxwood seems to have a lot oil in it that turns into a black glaze when hit by the laser.  Not a serious problem though.

 

 

Mark, you could also use a Macaroni chisel (yes, there is such a chisel and it's not made from semolina ;) ).  Pfeil makes them down to 4 mm in width. Some other brands may go as small as 2 mm. It has a square shape and cuts on three sides. Looks like picture below.  Would be far easier than trying to program the laser.  BTW I have two of these chisels.

$_35.JPG

 

 

Looks great as is tho. Nice job.

 

Jack,  I've got chisels (Dockyard brand) down to 1.5 mm and a couple of micro-surgery scalpels even smaller.  The lettering on the plaque is <1mm high.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Microsurgery ... I like it !

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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Jack: how do you sharpen a small macaroni chisel? I've always been curious about that.

 

Have not had to do that to mine yet.  Just stropping it (carefully) has kept the edge sharp.  You have to strop each side individually just like you would a V-gouge. Before I start carving I strop any knife/gouge first then after about 10-20 minutes of carving I stop and re-strop them before continuing. That pretty much keeps the edge razor sharp (at least for me).

 

To re-sharpen it I would image you would start with the flat bottom, sharpen it on a stone, then do each side holding the side flat to the stone, then use a small square stone to sharpen the inside edge. I would not try to use a belt sander on this one. Some of my woodcarving mates use small belt sanders to do their knives and gouges even V-gouges.  I would do this one by hand on a very flat stone probably one of my ceramic stones.

 

It does do a nice job of cutting a squared bottom / side tho and without a lot of effort.

 

The Pfeil brand chisels come razor sharp and honed right out of the box so they are ready to use immediately.

Edited by Jack12477
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Jack: ¿Como afilar macarrones cincel pequeño de la ONU? Siempre que Teñido eso Sobre curiosidad.

Druxey hola. Yo no soy un experto, pero con la Dremel y archivos pequeños, hice mis propias guvias.
practicando en poco tiempo obtendrá un buen progreso.
Pongo fotos de mis guvias. y aliexpres, es una tienda a través de Internet, no hay costos de transporte. Puse 2 enlaces: 4 guvias 1,5 mm y guvia 1 1 mm.
saludos cabrapente
 

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/Trumpeter-09923-Micro-Model-Chisel-F1-Flat-1mm-Tip-1x1mm-Free-Shipping/2020492323.html?adminSeq=201843456&shopNumber=413964

 

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-4Pcs-Big-Size-Woodpecker-Dry-Hand-Wood-Carving-Tools-Chip-Detail-Chisel-set-Knives/32233733646.html?adminSeq=201687738&shopNumber=1342030

post-407-0-51343900-1444076412_thumb.jpg

post-407-0-57379900-1444076413_thumb.jpg

post-407-0-08607700-1444076415_thumb.jpg

post-407-0-48040000-1444076416_thumb.jpg

post-407-0-95105000-1444076417_thumb.jpg

Edited by cabrapente
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Mark,

 

Nice job on the carving. You could cut out the letters and glue them on another piece of wood if you wanted more height and better access to the crannies and nooks in the letters ... looking at the result, you hardley need the height ... it stands out pretty well on it's own!!!

 

 

Jack: how do you sharpen a small macaroni chisel? I've always been curious about that.

There we need a sharpening steel Druxey ... a common kitchen utensil ! Comes in mighty handy in modelbuilding ...

 

Have not had to do that to mine yet.  Just stropping it (carefully) has kept the edge sharp.  You have to strop each side individually just like you would a V-gouge. Before I start carving I strop any knife/gouge first then after about 10-20 minutes of carving I stop and re-strop them before continuing. That pretty much keeps the edge razor sharp (at least for me).

 

To re-sharpen it I would image you would start with the flat bottom, sharpen it on a stone, then do each side holding the side flat to the stone, then use a small square stone to sharpen the inside edge. I would not try to use a belt sander on this one. Some of my woodcarving mates use small belt sanders to do their knives and gouges even V-gouges.  I would do this one by hand on a very flat stone probably one of my ceramic stones.

Which means ... trial and error ... toss the ones which are ruined after sharpening and buy a new one ... which is sharp like a rasor on arrival, and doesn't need sharpening ;) (saves a lot of time sharpening too! ;) )

 

Cheers

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Thanks, Jack, for describing how you keep your macaroni's edges keen. I have a number of other Pfeil brand craving tools, and can attest to their sharpness, as well as their quality, straight from the factory. 

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Carl,  it's cheaper to keep them razor sharp - these tools in US retail starting at $45-$55 and upwards per chisel.  Kitchen steel will ruin one of these chisel.  Rather we use either a ceramic stone (new type) or the older style Arkansas stone.  The ceramic stones do not need a lubricant like the Arkansas stones do and the sharpen a lot faster. I've used both and prefer the ceramic for my carving tools; I use the Arkansas for other knives (e.g. pocket knife).

 

Druxey: The other brand, which I do not have (yet), that is as sharp as Pfeil with same quality is Two Cherries brand.

Edited by Jack12477
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I've not used the water-stone yet but plan to get one sometime in future. And, yes, I forgot to mention that I use a leather strop with a white chalk-like "pumis" (for lack of a better name) which I dust onto the leather.

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When was moved my sister packed my stones.  But they left my leather strop.  Now I have to get a new one when I get  chance.

David B

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Minor update... planking is ongoing but I needed a break.  So back to the longboat.

 

Reworking again... 5th time I think, the form for making the longboat.  1st was the hand carved plug... tossed it.  2nd was the bulkheads like Chuck uses and BE did so well at 1:64...  broke the bulkheads.  3rd was the same using thicker bulkheads, still broke off the framing bits.   4th was a plug that used the laser to cut out... Something hiccupped and it came out 1" too long.  I'm still not sure what happened...  So.. number 5... in all it's glory.  Exact size and I'm happy.   Now to put it together and start adding stuff like frames and keel.  :)

 

post-76-0-33269900-1444773449_thumb.jpg

post-76-0-86287100-1444773470_thumb.jpg

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I'm not sure how many is the charm anymore, George.   I know I turned the air blue and paint peeled off the walls when the keel didn't fit...and then I discovered what happened.....  Even the dog hid. ;)

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I remember those feelings also. Got them a few times on the different work sites. Show 'em what to do and even demonstrate how to do it, and they still get it wrong. Yeah ---- I've "lost it" a few times!   :D

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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Something to consider for keeping carving tools sharp:

 

Get some pieces of scrap leather from a local shop that works leather.

Coat the smooth side with Flexcut Gold Polishing compd. 

 

It comes as a stick - use like a crayon to coat the leather.

 

 

Strop the edge frequently - pull the blade.

I must sometimes move the blade slightly in the cutting direction when I place it on the leather - I can tell because it messes up the surface of the leather.  Several back up pieces of leather is useful to have.

 

Unless you mar the edge of the tool by hitting steel or something, you should not need to use a sharpening stone ever again.  Stropping should be enough.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Your 'bread 'n' butter' longboat be coming along nicely there, Mark.

 

I know I turned the air blue and paint peeled off the walls when the keel didn't fit...

 

Ah yes ... the wailing and gnashing of teeth, as well as ample usage of ye olde sailing language, wouldst be a staple in my build room.

:cheers:

Edited by CaptainSteve

CaptainSteve
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   I know I turned the air blue and paint peeled off the walls when the keel didn't fit...and then I discovered what happened.....  Even the dog hid. ;)

 

 

Ah yes ... the wailing and gnashing of teeth, as well as ample usage of ye olde sailing language would be a staple in my build room.

:cheers:

I thought that was a prerequisite for ship building?

 

I think you're on to the solution with V5.0 Mark. Will be watching closely, I would like to add a ships boat or 3 to my next build.

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

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Hi Mark - 

 

Looking good.  That stack of lifts for the longboat should work out well.  Looking forward to your progress.

 

For carving those really small letters, I have had some good success by using micro-bitts for the Dremel that I have accumulated over the years.  Here is a photo of some of the smaller ones.  The last on the right is from my dentist, who is a great source of tiny tools.

 

Dan

 

post-3092-0-40786800-1444831961_thumb.jpg

Current build -SS Mayaguez (c.1975) scale 1/16" = 1' (1:192) by Dan Pariser

 

Prior scratch builds - Royal yacht Henrietta, USS Monitor, USS Maine, HMS Pelican, SS America, SS Rex, SS Uruguay, Viking knarr, Gokstad ship, Thames River Skiff , USS OneidaSwan 42 racing yacht  Queen Anne's Revenge (1710) SS Andrea Doria (1952), SS Michelangelo (1962) , Queen Anne's Revenge (2nd model) USS/SS Leviathan (1914),  James B Colgate (1892),  POW bone model (circa 1800) restoration

 

Prior kit builds - AL Dallas, Mamoli Bounty. Bluejacket America, North River Diligence, Airfix Sovereign of the Seas

 

"Take big bites.  Moderation is for monks."  Robert A. Heinlein

 

 

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Carving out the inside of that boat will be easier with a moto-tool and a small bit then finish with sandpaper to clean it up.  I normally use my Foredom as I have more control over the carving.  Besides I foolishly brought my Dremel to work so I could sharpen a bunch of spur bits that our grinder was too large for and it walked off.  Since I never used it for modeling I did not miss it.

David B

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