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Swift 1805 by DC-ocker - Artesania Latina


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Bought the kit in 1985 when model expo was in New Jersey. It sat virtually unopened for 28 years until a couple years after I retired.

(There was another model in front of it that had been incomplete from about the same time: 1939 Mercedes W154-M163.)

 

Thankfully, I found MSW soon after I decided to start the build.

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first planks attached

 

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progress on the first planking layer

 

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closing in on the last couple of planks

 

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and the first layer is complete

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The stains near the bow are from the metal binder paper clips used to bend the wet plank.

 

Question:

  1. Should I remove the stain in case it bleeds through to the final layer?

 

Now on to smoothing out the hull. Some of the planks look like a clinker hull.

 

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clinker effect is still evident after some hull smoothing.

 

Trevor

Edited by dc-ocker
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Welcome to MSW Trevor,

Nice job on the first planking. Its nearly impossible the plank using kit planking without getting some clinkering effect. Just keep sanding until she's smooth. I found using scrapers also handy for smoothing the first planking prior to the second planking. Getting her as smooth as possible is important as it's the base for the second planking. I wouldn't worry about the bit of staining either.

It looks like you have a good solid foundation going, keep up the wonderful work.

 

Congrats on retirement also.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Satisfied with the hull sanding. The clinker appearance has gone and its nice and smooth.

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Should I be concerned about the occasional gap between planks in preparation for the second hull planking? The gaps are little more than a razor blade wide.

 

Next is the deck planking.

 

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Built a rudimentary plank cutter to get all deck planks the same length.

 

From Ulises Victoria deck planking article, I used his five plank shift scenario.

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Used a pencil to highlight the joins and hopefully make it look realistic.

 

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Used a gel sealer finish on the deck. The bow in this photo has a couple layers of clear gel finish rubbed into it to show the contrast.

 

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And here’s the full coated deck with the stringers added.

 

Now it’s on to adding the bulwarks.

I agree with other Swift builders that the supplied plywood bulwarks are difficult to fit. Seems like the angle at the bow results in them being too splayed out.

I’m considering using some veneer wood to do the bulwark and plank inside and out.

 

Trevor

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Hey Trevor,

The deck looks great, I like the 5 plank stagger it looks really good without being to busy.

Capt Harv suggested using 3'' basswood sheeting to cut the bulwarks from rather then using the kits ply and I found it to be excellent advise.

 

I found the razor thin gaps easily fill with a small dab of glue rubbed into the gaps, then sand with 220 paper and the dust mixes with the glue and fills the hull gaps quite well. They shouldn't be an issue though. Unless the 1st and 2nd plank gaps lay on top of each other, which they didn't for me.

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Thanks for the encouragement and kudos on my planking, Russ and themadchemist (Keith?)

 

I first tried a dry fit with the supplied plywood,

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but the plywood layers keep splitting.

 

Next I cut a piece of veneer.

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It certainly follows the curve easier, and I could almost use this blue painters tape as my clamps.

But not satisfied with that as I’ll have to use at least two sheets to get a decent strength/thickness.

 

So its onto your suggestions: Basswood.

 

Trevor

 

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Busted a couple of basswood bulwarks before I remembered to soak and bend. Found a convenient heat source for my bending: my gas furnace exhaust flue. Its only steps from my workshop.

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Here’s the starboard bulwark

 

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And the port side.

 

With a good soak and bend to the right shape, I was able to use these mini clamps to hold it in place without any other rubber bands or clamps.

 

I’ve been following the ‘blue sheet’ directions that came with the kit as to what sequence to assemble. But I think the deck stringers should be done AFTER the bulwark, which I now see on 3Sheets10’s build; and thechemist.

 

Handling the hull to dry fit the port bulwark, I cracked the starboard bulwark so I came up with this jig to hold onto the model so I don't break something else.

 

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The dowel in the foremast hole applies enough pressure to keep the jig from falling out of the cabin holes.

 

Now that I have the bulwarks on I notice they have an irregular height. It varies from 12mm up to 15 mm. When I switched to basswood bulwarks I thought I’d just pencil in the inside planks. Now I think I’ll get the bulwarks all to 15mm and hide the joins with some veneer planking.

 

Trevor

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Once you get the height of the bulwarks settled, your idea of planking both inside and outside will work. So long as the planking is not too thick, the width of the rail can cover it all and no one will be the wiser. Just remember that you still have the stanchions to deal with and their upper ends should come under the railing.

 

Russ

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I planked the inner bulwarks before adding the stringers also, but it shouldn't matter as it looks like the stringers and bulwarks are tight against each other. Russ is dead-on about not worrying about the tops, once the stanchions are on and the bulwarks inner and outer planked, the cap rail will cover any unevenness of the inner bulwark.

 

You'll also find that adding the stanchions help solid up the bulwarks considerably.

 

Nice job on the bulwarks. To bad your plank bender is only seasonal (winter use), nice improvisation.

 

I plan to get back to my Swift rigging soon also. Gabe just finished rigging his Swift and incorporated many of the changes I've been contemplating. My advise on using the AL instructions.... I quit using them very early and used the MSW communities advise instead. I would have never learned to plank as I have without Russ's excellent mentorship. Everything I know, has been taught to me by someone here. I have yet to find an MSW member that doesn't answer questions when asked and usually without even asking.

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  • 1 month later...

It's been over a month since I posted progress. Most of March was a battle with pneumonia so there was no progress at all. Didn't even feel like going out on the bike.

 

Added some basswood to even out the bulwark height. Next the inside bulwark planking is complete. Just three planks bow to stern.

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Took someone’s advice to double layer the lower transom as the outside layer seemed too thin for the rudder hole that will go through it. Used some veneer that I think is teak.

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Wasn’t sure how to finish the stern below the transom as it seemed too thin (vertically) to do anything fancy. So used more teak veneer. I think I’ll drill some pilot holes for wood pins to secure the rudder/keel as all this veneer could be flimsy when I just glue on the rudder post.

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Next?

Not sure if I’ll do the outer bulwark planking or move on to the deck houses.

When I do the outer bulwark, I think I’ll cut into short planks rather than try one plank bow to stern.

 

Trevor

Edited by dc-ocker
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Personally I found outer 2nd planking placement worked well after the keel, stem and stern posts were fitted and placed. I felt I got a nicer bearding line between the keel/stem and hull that way, as fitting the stem post can be a bit of a chore and its much easier to work with the 1st planking on that issue.

  

If I remember correctly I placed stanchions and caprails next, then fit the keel, then 2nd planked. You'll find that stations and cap rails really make the bulwarks a lot more solid. 

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