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Deck planking - simulation of caulking


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Hi,

 

I'm about to start my next build and need some advice regarding deck planking. How have you made simulated caulking? On my current build I usted a thin tread however seems a bit 'over the top''.

 

Seen several buildlogs Where the caulking Washington simulated with a pencil. Any good suggestions are most welcome

 

Regards

Soren

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Hi Soren

Much depends on what scale you are working to.The neatest way is to glue thin black paper to one edge and end of each plank,however obviously depending on the paper thickness,it can look too much on the smaller scales.For the smaller scales,pencil,or mixing a little black ink with the glue can be used.The result from the ink method is dependent on the absorbency of the timber so experimentation is advised.A permanent marker can be used but again do a trial run to check it doesn't bleed too much into the wood.I think in all cases making a little 'dummy' section of deck with the same timber as the model is the best way.You can make a sample of each and see what you prefer.Apply what ever finish you will be using,I use the pencil method and after sanding you can't see it,however after applying the poly I use,the appearance changes dramatically.

 

Kind Regards Nigel

Currently working on Royal Caroline

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I used a number two pencil sharpened to a very sharp point. I sharpened the pencil between each row to make the nails and seams as tight as possible. It turned out well for my level of building skills (second build).  Some of the very advanced builders go to great lengths with deck planks.

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I also use a lead pencil.  And instead of sanding the deck I would take either a single edged razor blade or a utility knife blade and scrape the deck smooth.  Scraping shaves the wood leaving a smooth and polished look.  Sanding might tear the grain.

David B

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i have used a couple different ways.  I have used a pencil, an archive pen, an artists marker and ebony wood putty.

 

I liked the putty - but it is a major pain to work with and the returns on the work invested wasn't that spectacular.

The pencil worked okay, but I really liked the archive pen!

-Adam

 

Current Builds

Santa Maria - Artesania Latina (1:65) POB

MayFlower - Model Shipways (5/32"=1') POB
Blue Shadow - Mamoli Revolutionary War Brigantine. (Fict) (1:64) POB (Recommissioned as the Kara June)

 

On The Shelf Waiting so Patiently

USRC Ranger - Corel (1:50) POB

18th Century Longboat - Model Shipways (1:4) POF

La Nina - Artesania Latina (1:65) POB

U.S Brig Syren - Model Shipways (1:64) POB

 

Completed Builds

Phantom NY Pilot Boat - Model Shipways (1:96) Solid Hull

 

Decommissioned Builds
(Time and conditions were not good to these. They have been cancelled =( )

Willie L Bennett - Model Shipways (1:32) POF
USRC Harriet Lane - Model Shipways (1:128) Solid Hull

 

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Hi Adam,

 

Thanks for your comment. Been considering a permanent marker or archive pen but a bit worried about the bleeding into the wood. I like a clean look with straight lines (why I decided to go with the treat on my current build). I will make some test samples and post the results here.

 

//Soren

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In my scale it is impossible ( for me) and not in real ship.

 

Somewhere ( maybe in MSW ) I had seen very interesting technique, but if it fits to your scale

 

Drill little holes for "nails", bye thinnest possible black plastic guitar string ( or black, also thinnest possible, fishing line), cut little pieces, glue them in holes, and when glue dry, sand deck. Effects are marvelous

 

Do some tests.

 

Also try BEFORE planking to make planks, drill holes, paint them ( not whole plank) with thin acrylic, and after drying, sand to clear wood. Painted holes stay

 

In picture above you can see "weathering" effect of sanded acrylic paint on veneer. Try to imagine your holes painted and sanded

 

post-4738-0-11109000-1392279228.jpg

Edited by Nenad M

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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I have a question about the pencil option. Do you use the pencil along the deck lines after the deck is built, or do you use the pencil scraped along the edge of the plank before attaching it to the deck?

I would use a no2 pencil and rub it along the edge of the plank on one side. After gluing the plank the graphite would mix with the glue. Once everything was done i would then use a homemade scraper and scrape the deck. This method will shave the deck smooth and help to burnish and polish it. A scraper can be made from almost anything,

David B

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I use a number 2 pencil rubbed along the edge of the planks before they are installed. I place a penciled edge against a plain edge and the result is a thin line to represent caulking. It is not overdone, and has a decent scale appearance. You can see it in my current project where I just recently completed the deck planking.

 

Russ

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In my scale it is impossible ( for me) and not in real ship.

 

Somewhere ( maybe in MSW ) I had seen very interesting technique, but if it fits to your scale

 

Drill little holes for "nails", bye thinnest possible black plastic guitar string ( or black, also thinnest possible, fishing line), cut little pieces, glue them in holes, and when glue dry, sand deck. Effects are marvelous

 

Do some tests.

 

Also try BEFORE planking to make planks, drill holes, paint them ( not whole plank) with thin acrylic, and after drying, sand to clear wood. Painted holes stay

 

In picture above you can see "weathering" effect of sanded acrylic paint on veneer. Try to imagine your holes painted and sanded

 

attachicon.gifpost-4738-0-96586300-1390077148_thumb.jpg

I once used bristles (sp?) from a broom to simulate treenails for my Endeavour

post-975-0-55054900-1392866735_thumb.jpg

post-975-0-70442700-1392866753_thumb.jpg

post-975-0-34897900-1392866777_thumb.jpg

post-975-0-25478900-1392866798_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ulises Victoria

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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I once used bristles (sp?) from a broom to simulate treenails for my Endeavour

 

It is just what I mean and had seen !!!

 

Thanks

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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I think the Admiral might have something to say about the bald patch in her broom :D

But that is a good idea

No Admiral here whatsoever. Broom is all mine.  :P  ;)  :D

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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  • 1 month later...

Hi,

 

I'm about to start my next build and need some advice regarding deck planking. How have you made simulated caulking? On my current build I usted a thin tread however seems a bit 'over the top''.

 

Seen several buildlogs Where the caulking Washington simulated with a pencil. Any good suggestions are most welcome

 

Regards

Soren

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I am new to this wood model ship building however I played with a few planke to see what I liked best. My ship is 24" long so what i did is I used a paint sitck (dark brown) first I snaded and sealed the top of the plank to stop some blead then I coated the edges all the way around two times to build up the paint. When butted together it looks great !! for bigger ships do more coats. as far as the nail holes I have played with this as well. The sides of my ship are dark so what I'm doing is drilling a very small hole then using Durams wood putty to fill the holes. Afrer sanding the holes are lighter and can be seen very well. The deck on the other hand is light so I think I will again drill the little holes and mix the Durams with a little dark brown paint instaed of water and see how that  goes ??  Although the guy who said to use black fishing line may be an option ?

Good Luck

Brad

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  • 1 month later...

I use a black Kuretake Zig Brushable Colour Graduation Twin Brush Tip Marker Pen. It has a dark black end and a slightly lighter more charcoal coloured black on the other, it doesn't bleed into the grain and doesn't get ruined by danish oil finish either.

 

For me it has been the best solution for caulking, quick and easy.

Kits owned: Mamoli Royal Louis, Mamoli Friesland, Mamoli HMS Victory 1:90, Occre Santisima Trinidad, Constructo HMS Prince

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Here's my deck that I used a straight edge to cut the cross cuts and then a number two pencil to simulate caulk and nails. I made sure the pencil point was always sharp to set the graphite deep so it will never smear.

post-4214-0-93583600-1401292868_thumb.jpg

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I thought I would post a couple of pics as this thread has popped up again.Having taken on board all the different methods employed by everyone,I feel I have come up with a new alternative :D .I developed this for my Mordaunt build to be used on both deck hull and keel.The fact the model will be finished in Shelac immediately precludes the use of any type of marker as the alcohol or meths base will dissolve this and cause it to smear.It is time consuming,but I feel gives a thinner sharper line than using black paper.I opted to use black tissue paper as not only is this much thinner,it allows doesn't run the risk of weakening the joint like paper.I do propose to post a tutorial on it as there are some differences to the paper method.The part laid deck in the picture still needs more scraping to the finished level,but gives an impression.The deck is pear with a max plank width of 5.7mm(the planks are tapered)

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

post-1641-0-76547300-1401300338_thumb.jpg

post-1641-0-08830400-1401300366_thumb.jpg

Currently working on Royal Caroline

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Yes Nigel, I have been following your Mordaunt build log and I was impressed by your planking. If you could post a tutorial, I would be really grateful. 

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

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No Problem Keith,it is in the pipeline ;) When I do the other half of the deck I will take pics of the steps involved.I will finish this half and scrape it down so everyone will get a good idea of the results.Can't really post a tutorial without a finished example :D  :D

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Currently working on Royal Caroline

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I have seen very some incredible solutions here for caulking a deck. Not sure whether it may have been mentioned but would a fairly good size kit rope inked with black ink and filling into seams as is done on real life older ships work??? I am considering this for my Xebec that I have finally gotten back to work on. Please if someone has tried this arduous procedure completed let us know....I suspect it may take some time but the effects to me anyway would seem to appear quite realistic.

Creativity Heart & Soul!

 

Happy Model Ship Building Friends!

 

John E.

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John,

I've seen it done.  Use the thinnest thread you can find, even thinner than the kit rope.  Sanding and/scraping does become issue however as it tends to fuzz the thread. 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Consider the scale ,i sometimes wonder if anything above 1:75 needs anything  .My experience is limited but have used the pencil method a couple otf times with reasonable success , Have never tried thread as most reports i read it,s not always satisfactory .Good luck in your choise !!!

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I have seen very some incredible solutions here for caulking a deck. Not sure whether it may have been mentioned but would a fairly good size kit rope inked with black ink and filling into seams as is done on real life older ships work??? I am considering this for my Xebec that I have finally gotten back to work on. Please if someone has tried this arduous procedure completed let us know....I suspect it may take some time but the effects to me anyway would seem to appear quite realistic.

I personally wouldn't go that route. Even if that's the closest possible to the real thing, I don't think it would be feasible on a scale model. What scale is your Xebec? My opinion is the inking of the sides of the planks is enough.

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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