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HMS Victory by tinyellie - Constructo - 1:94


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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I have the same kit and looking at where you are we are almost at identical points. ( obviously when you posted this back in February ) I decked the lower decks as per manual but end up putting another layer on with the addition of caulking to the planks.  As this is my first post I am struggling to post images. or even find out how

 

Builds looking good

 

Paul

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Paul

 

Have you started a build log?  I'd love to see your progress as there aren't many of the Constructo kits on here and we may be able to help each other as we go along.  What technique did you use to caulk your planks?  When I sanded with #0000 steel wool I found it left residue in the nooks and crannies and seemed to similate it quite well.

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  • 3 weeks later...

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k295/Paul0367/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-05/PICT_20140504_003204_zpsakqlhqq_edit_1399209339495_zpsmmyuvihn.jpg

 

I'm not sure regards the posting of images on this forum so here goes. Please note the error made on the constructo kit, the grates or grilles as some call them should be the same as those on the top deck, the main parts, meaning the solid as viewed from above should run fore to aft but for some reason the lower deck runs from port to starboard, why, not sure but I found this info after I installed them. Hope the image posts ok

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Im not sure what you mean re steps but there is another 2 sets to be made which go up to the poop deck above the captains quarters, as for caulking I used pencil around the edge of every plank and the finished look is great. I put images on but being new I put them in finished models section. Whoops sorry admin, we need to email to prevent cluttering your log

Edited by Paul0367
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After making the first 3 steps I still have 4 full length sides that's 2 L/H & 2 R/H plus half a length of each also, I'm not sure why your so short on stock. That said you can always make your own sides from stock timber if you do fall short.

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Looking good, I'm, time wise quite far ahead of you as the planking of the hull eats time for fun. I have at this point decided to colour my model as she sits in Portsmouth and have the cannons as per real ones and not pretty brass. This decision was made and helped along by the wood grain / colour, the wood is, well wood, and the grain and colour differ from strip to strip as one would expect. I struggled to get enough planks what I would call suitable to sit side by side to be varnished to match box art but that said when I went for this Beautiful ship the colour was also part of the look. I don't take well to painting wood as wood is lovely natural look. What is your intension regards finishing, varnish or paint

post-11858-0-92908200-1400098620_thumb.jpg

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Your planking is looking lovely Paul.

 

I'm probably going to go down the painting route too. Definitely for the black and yellow above the water line. Slightly undecided for below at the moment. I need to do some testing first to see how it looks.

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Great job!

I have the same doubt about painting job on the ship.

I have covered the under water hull with copper plates, as the real ship is.

But, I prefer the wood color to the black and yellow on the rest of the ship.

Not decided yet, but still thinking....

Anyway, keep on the good job! looking great and well done :)

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pilidk, where did you get the copper plates from to match the scale as I intend on having her look she does in dry dock. Tinyelle if you using the pliers that snip the plank to enable the bend, be careful, too deep on the light wood and you can sand into the compressed wood and it will show a line, I have sanded and have 4 visible near the bow. Oh if you were to use the Vaneer sheets how on earth are they to follow the contours of the hull. I did a dry fit to get the look but they want to buckle to conform to the curves. PLANKING is slow, very slow, two an evening if I'm lucky, due to clamping the first. Oh just a helper, I started using a tiny drill bit and drilling the plank then using the kit brass tacks and putting then 3/4 through, this works fine if a pin head doesn't come off but I later snapped my ideal drill bit and started using the plastic headed drawing pins and they are far easier to use.

Edited by Paul0367
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Oh, planking is a huge time absorber mainly as due to clamping your looking at two and evening, I have been sanding as I go along rather than all at the end. I have fitted 22 each side so far and I'm close the the bottom most sharp curve looking at 9 each side to hit the bottom but its slow and repetitive stuff, that said not as difficult as we read about but I've the tricky keel to hit yet. Oh just to help, I found the Sapelly very tough to work with especially on the aft section where the curve is extremely tight. I snapped a few I'm my learning and finally found for me the only way is soak in boiling water about 20 mins and apply the thick part of a soldering iron to the area and gently pull up as I slide the iron over the area. I would if I build another purchase the proper iron / bending mould but its patience because just when you think you can just go that bit further, snap, a long time wasted and I've done it a few times as I said. I am concerned regards my plank stock as 5 strips were quite a lot thinner than the rest.

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Be careful with your Sapelly planks for the hull. Do a stock check and ensure they are all the same thickness of 2 mm. I have 6 X 1.5 mm mixed in, the other thing is to look for cross grain, these will snap rather than allow you to plain them, I lost a few to this phenomenon. I have decided as I only have 6 planks to finish the hull that I'm going to use some vaneer as packing to acheivce the 2 mm required. I will message you the quantity of planks I have used to give you an idea how many by our likely to use.

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Total planks used on my hull as a guide for you was, below the last two light Ayous strips 21 x 6 mm x 2 mm  on each side and about 5 more each side for packing any gaps, the kit provides 56 strips. Some will snap due to the grain direction and also due to grain be a nightmare to plane and also snap. ( normally when you have spent a while getting it perfect) I did use the veneer on my last 5 strips, I veneered the hull frames first and added the 1.5 mm strips to it when dry. this was because the strips should have been 2 mm but the quality control staff sent me 1.5. I did buy 12 extra strip and guess what, the shop only had 1.5 mm. read my log regards other issues I have had so you can avoid some problems

 

Manzonia strips do not like doing as there told, Like a petulant teenager. ( my log will reveal all )

 

Hope all is ok

Edited by Paul0367
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  • 3 weeks later...

hi,

I know building is the last thing your thinking about at the moment but keep this for the future, no matter how much you measure the hull plans and transfer to your model some hatches hit the main ribs in the hull. I used a vernier quage and measured the plan exactly and hit ribs. The lower ribs to be fair are not a problem only three hit the ribs

but I had to adjust the four hatches which are on the deck, centre of the ship because the plan would have hit two of the deck ribs and that's on full view from just under the deck above. You can not actually tell I've moved them from the image but just bear I'm mind, measure twice cut once. My problem started from the very first cannon which, yes, hit a rib, so the allarm bells rang making me check all of them.

 

Take care

 

Oh you may notice the bottom two Wales curve up, the very bottom one actually cuts into the light Ayous timber, this is because the Wales on the real ship don't follow the cannons and running them straight makes the hull appear flat, well I thought so

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hi,

I know building is the last thing your thinking about at the moment but keep this for the future, no matter how much you measure the hull plans and transfer to your model some hatches hit the main ribs in the hull. I used a vernier quage and measured the plan exactly and hit ribs. The lower ribs to be fair are not a problem only three hit the ribs

but I had to adjust the four hatches which are on the deck, centre of the ship because the plan would have hit two of the deck ribs and that's on full view from just under the deck above. You can not actually tell I've moved them from the image but just bear I'm mind, measure twice cut once. My problem started from the very first cannon which, yes, hit a rib, so the allarm bells rang making me check all of them.

 

Take care

 

Oh you may notice the bottom two Wales curve up, the very bottom one actually cuts into the light Ayous timber, this is because the Wales on the real ship don't follow the cannons and running them straight makes the hull appear flat, well I thought so

post-11858-0-49008600-1404387635_thumb.jpg

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