Gunboat PHILADELPHIA by Chuck Seiler - Scale 1:48 1776 Scratch from MS Plans

[the learner]

From John Fox from one of the other discussion groups:

 

"Check this out!

 

http://3d.si.edu/explorer?modelid=47

 

Pan, zoom, top, bottom, P&S views of Philadelphia as she sits in the Smithsonian. There's a measuring tape you can use to find dimensions and spacing of chosen features, like beam and frame spacing.

 

Now that is truly a cool thing to view!"

 

It requires Internet Explorer 11 to view (which I don't have yet...but I see it in my Update queue to download).

I tried to check this out but for some reason the Smithsonian will not accept my e-mail address when I try to register but sounds interesting. I do not have version 11 of IE perhaps that is why?

 

Your build looks fantastic and the 1/4 scale looks like it will work! I know Dave Yotter's boat is huge but it allowed him to add a lot of detail.

 

I look foward to following the rest of the build

Edited March 4, 2014 by the learner

[Chuck Seiler]

Guy,

    I still have not loaded IE 11 yet, so have not yet attempted to get on.  I plan to do that this weekend.  I will let you know if I have similar issues.

[Chuck Seiler]

Dave,

   Which paintjob are you talking about?  The longboat or cookstove?

 

Chuck

[dgbot]

If you have Chrome you can view it. Very interesting. I use IE9 and Chrome.

David B

[Chuck Seiler]

I expect to have pics showing progress on cookstove, deadeyes and mast support beam by tomorrow.

[Chuck Seiler]

This photo encompasses almost al the work I got done since last post.

 

--Cook stove complete and mounted.

--Lower deadeyes rigged and installed.

--Mast support beam completed and installed.

 

Close up of cook stove.

[captainbob]

Beautiful wook, and you're right, can't have much of a fire in that stove.

 

Bob

[Chuck Seiler]

Several of us were opining whether or not it was moved from that location (where it was stored) and used in a more open location (less prone to setting critical parts of the vessel on fire).  It is constructed in a wooden box filled with sand.  Movable but heavy.  It just seems very inconvenient where it is.

[dgbot]

Great work keep it up.

David B

[Mike 41]

Hi Chuck,

Nice work on the stove. I doubt very much if it was used where it is stored.

Mike

[mtaylor]

Could there have been a metal 'top' fitted under the beam to deflect the heat and smoke much like the French ships' fireplaces?

[Chuck Seiler]

I don't believe so.  I don't think there is any metal plate on the Smithsonian ship.  The book I was reading indicated there was charring.  I suppose metal could be charred, but I took it to mean wood.  I will go back and re-read that source.

[Chuck Seiler]

   It has been a slow weekend.  Big decisions....should I work on the model or go to the beach? Build model-go to the beach? Model-beach?  beach-model?   Hmmmmmmm

 

    Here are some more shots of previous work.

 

    Here you can see the lower deadeyes better than in previous shots.  Yes, Virginia, the deadeyes are inboard.  More proof that it was designed by army guys.

 

    The lower deadeyes are "stropped" with rope, with the two ends run through holes in the hull and knotted on the outside.  Mine are simple overhand knots.  I suspect the real ones are a bit more complicated.

 

    I had some problems with this.  At first, I ran the lines through the holes and attempted to knot the lines.  Once the lines were knotted, I could cut off the excess.  <NOT>  The locations of the knots had to be precise in order to ensure the deadeyes lines up properly.  Given that one of my nicknames is "Nine Thumbs Charlie" I found this undo-able.  I decided to knot the lines first, THEN pull the know through the holes.  In order to do this, I had to enlarge the holes; large enough to get the knot through but not so large as to let the knot pass back through.

 

    You see some of my ironwork in the background.

[Chuck Seiler]

 

    Here is some miscellaneous work I have been doing.  I need to get a bunch of ringbolts, eyebolts and blocks ready for the next couple of phases. 

 

    I generally have two problems with commercially bought eye bolts: (1) They are never quite the size (eye size) that I need/want...either too big or too small.  Some of the eyebolts I have purchased or snagged from other kits I have (languishing on the back shelf) are the right size and some are not.  (2) The brass is too pliable...too much stress or strain on the bolt will cause it to deform or open up.  To solve this, I take 'too large' eyebolts and resize them.  #1 solved.  I also silver solder the eye and part of the shaft.  This hardens and strengthens the bolt.  Sometimes I will solder the eye closed so that there is no split in the eye and sometimes I will not, depending on whether or not I plan to put a ring in it later (or if I screw up the solder job...still learning).  At any rate, it is hard enough that even if the gap is not shut, it will not pull open under strain.

 

    Hooks made from eyebolts.  They will be soldered and blackened later.

 

   Two blocks have been completed, attached to eyebolts and mounted to the bulkhead for the port side 9 pounder gun.  These blocks appear large, but that is what the plan calls for.  Blocks are from Chuck Passaro.

 

    Brass is blackened using "Blacken-it".

Edited March 21, 2014 by Chuck Seiler

[dgbot]

Chuck, take a break and go to the beach.  Yoou deserve a break.

David B

[Chuck Seiler]

This weekend looks to be a little chilly...only 72 degrees.  I will stay home and work on PHILLY.

 

coming up...GUN CARRIAGES.

[Chuck Seiler]

POOP!!!  The stuff I put in last night apparently went away with the server.  Fortunately I received an email/digest with it all included.  I will reconstruct as best I can.

[Chuck Seiler]

    One of the things I need to get out of the way sooner or later are the gun carriages.  The two 9 pounder guns have traditional carriages, except the front wheels are the same size as the rear.  The 12 pounder s mounted on a slide carriage (sled?). 

 

    I am using cast pewter guns from LUMBERYARD.  The carriages available from them are okay, but I am not wild about them.  Chuck Passaro's carriages are too small for the guns used...plus I wanted to go with boxwood.

 

   Modeler12 in his "Making Gun Carriages" shows a great way to mass produce the sides of the carriage using a mill.  Being a tablesaw/dremel type of guy, my method is less precise but simpler. 

 

    The plans I was using had a good profile view of the slide carriage but only a quarter angle view of the traditional carriages.  Taking measurements from the quarterview, I made modifications to the slide carriage diagram in order to fit the bill.

[Chuck Seiler]

     I cut the carriage templates to size and rubber cemented them to the stock I was using for the carriages.  I decided to use a double wide piece of stock in order to facilitate using the table saw.  It will be more obvious once you see it.

 

 

    I rubber cemented two pieces of stock together so that when I made the cuts, I would have two exact pieces.  I actually made the stock slightly oversized, then milled it to the correct size...again, so the pieces would be exactly the same.

 

    In Modeler12's post, he is making a bunch of pieces at the same time.  I could do the same by adding more pieces of stock, in multiples of 2.  The other option (in retrospect) would be to use a thicker piece of stock and slicing it off later.  Thickness is restricted by how long my drill bit used for drilling holes in the side (for bolts and eyebolts).

 

    This shows the basic milling method.  I sense a bunch of folks with REAL mills are shuddering right now.

 

    The first cut is to make the trunnion "hole"...or half hole.  I am sure there is a term, but I cannot recall.  This is a starter cut.  It will be rounded out with a file later.

 

 

  

  Here I am cutting the indent for the front axle.  Now it is the safety guys that are shuddering.

 

    I decided to change operations a little in order to cut the rear axle indent.  There was not enough stock to do it safely or accurately.  It turned out pretty well.

 

    Next step was to cut the steps.  This went well until I got almost to the end, then part of the stock snapped off.  No damage, but I would have preferred it not happen.  When I cut the other side, I made a initial cut at the back end of the carriage.  This worked...it did not snap off this time.

 

   These look pretty crappy, but that is due to the paper residue, not the cut.  If you looked from the other side you would see that it is very crisp.  I don't know why I didn't take any pics of the reverse, but you will see them later.

 

   

 

[Chuck Seiler]

    I will be doing more work tonight and tomorrow, so I will have more pics...including my assembly jig.

 

    A question for the assembled gallery:  What color should I make the carriage?  I am not s re the plan specifies.  My original plan was some sort of brown stain, but I have plenty of brown already.  Natural stain?  Pale yellow dye? (more of an ocre)  Barn red dye (much like the bricks)?  Your thoughts and recommendos are encouraged.

[BRiddoch]

I think you should leave them natural Chuck.  I doubt they put much effort into painting them on the original.

 

        Bob R.

[dgbot]

Nice process Chuck.  As for the color I wuld go with the wood the originals were made of.  These vessels were made quick on a shoe string budget and not meant to last for very long.

David B

[Chuck Seiler]

It sounds like the consensus so far is "natural".  I will try some natural stain on scrap and see how it looks.

[Chuck Seiler]

As promised.

 

Here is a picture of the building jig.  I have subsequently made some changes and will show them in a future post.

 

1.  I want to color the jig so the carriage wood is more discernible.

 

2.  The sides come right up to the hole for the rear carriage bolt.  When the hole is enlarged to accommodate the bolt, it is lower than the side.  I had to put a crease in the jig along that access.

[Chuck Seiler]

Carriage sides cleaned up.

 

9 pounder carriage in its jig (right).  I stained the jig a little darker so you can differentiate jig from carriage.  I'm not sure it helps.   12 pounder slide carriage in its jig (left) with gun mounted for size.

[Mike 41]

Hi Chuck,

Nice work on the gun carriages. Your jig works really well.

Mike

[Chuck Seiler]

I got the idea on the jig from Clay Feldman, as part of his LEXINGTON build.  It helps keep everything aligned properly.  Seems like a waste when making 1 or 2 carriages (One 12 pounder and 2 nine pounders), but essential when dealing with 8, 10, 36 guns.

[Chuck Seiler]

    More on the cook stove.  I checked the reference book I spoke of.  I stated that when found, the cook stove was located on the center deck, just forward of the port 9 pounder, as indicated here.  (Along with cooking gear and at least 1 bone) 

    This is where it is located on the PHILADELPHIA in the Smithsonian

 

    It went on to say that due to the scorching on the underside of the mast partner, it was routinely used in the forward cockpit.

So, there is evidence it was used in both locations.

 

    If you have been following Mike41's build log of his 1775 Row Galley WASHINGTON, you will see a discussion on stoves.  See below (I hope this link works)

 

   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5902-uss-washington-by-mike-41-1776-row-galley-scale-148/page-4#entry175102

 

   The 'inside story' on that thread is that both PHILADELPHIA and WASHINGTON were part of the Continental fleet at Valcour Island.  As the PHILADELPHIA was sinking, the WASHINGTON came alongside and offloaded the crew.  Believe you me, they were quire disappointed to learn that, while they were eating hot dogs on a stick, the WASHINGTONians were getting donuts and baked Alaska

 

[Chuck Seiler]

    A post to get me back on page 1. 

 

    I didn't get as much 'ironwork' done last week as I would have liked.  This weekend I want to focus on a couple ironwork projects to get key areas done:  Pintols for the rudder, swivel gun straps and a prototype swivel gun yoke. 

 

    Here is what I have ben working on this week.  The gun carriages you have seen.  Left rear is the rudder (AKA The Barn Door).  In the foreground are brass strips cut for the swivel gun straps.

 

    Unlike many ships that have the gun mounted on a stock, PHILADELPHIA uses a strap wrapped around the caprail (with some of the caprail cut away).  I assume they were easier to make, but it is harder for me...so experiment I will go.

 

    I got a lot of work done today, but no fully completed projects.  More tomorrow.

[Chuck Seiler]

 

    Here is how my experimentation with the swivel gun yoke turned out.  Not bad for a prototype, but still needs some work.

 

    "Barn door" with lower pintol in the background.