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USS Constitution by Kimberley - Revell - 1:196 - PLASTIC


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MSSpringer, thanks for the amazon link.  I did ask Eric about my brushes, and he said they are good brushes.  Not the best really expensive ones, but they are good.  Eric said they are the correct type of brushes for the paints I am using.  I do have some pretty small ones.  He said you can go even smaller, but he does not see a need for that yet.  I guess I will find out the more I paint.  By the way, my husband is an industrial designer, so I do trust him when he tells me things about paints, brushes, etc.  That is why he is so good at free hand painting on his model cars.  I want to do my own paint.  That is why I am learning so much from you guys. 

 

Thanks for the tips Sam.  I am going to try the tape off tip on one of my older ships.  I am going to go to the hobby store today.  Hopefully, I can find the dullcoat.

 

I have been working on my masts the last 2 days.  I am also going to start putting the cannons on the deck today.  I don't want to put the hull cannons on until I get it completely painted. 

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Hi Kimberly,

 

You are struggling with two subjects I have the worst time with; painting something white and masking tape bleed.

 

You got the best advice for the masking tape bleed.  I use the Tamiya tape and seal methode and have not had any trouble since learning about it.

 

For the white paint, this kit tought me that Krylon primer gray and primer white were my best friends.  The last one I built, which was my fourth, I primed all the parts to be dark colrs with primer gray spray paint and all the white parts with primer white spriay paint.  After that, brush painting the final coats went on easy with no doulbe coats.  The primer also made painting tight areas easier because it gave the paint "grip" so it wouldn't run as easily.

 

Another technique I would like to add in regards to painting the "ginger bread" scroll work and window frame details would be to learn the "dry brush" technique.  This is where you take a soft, flat brush, load it with paint, then stroke the brush over a flat piece of paper or cardboard until the brush seems it needs more paint, then take the brush and lightly stroke it across the details you want painted.  the coats may seem very light at first, so you will need to repeat the method a few times to get the color to thicken on the detail your are painting.

 

Current Builds:  Revell 1:96 Thermopylae Restoration

                           Revell 1:96 Constitution COMPLETED

                           Aeropiccola HMS Endeavor IN ORDINARY

Planned Builds: Scientific Sea Witch

                            Marine Models USF Essex

                            

 

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Scott and the others are right about the primer, its your best friend when painting. I wont go off topic here, but there have been a couple of times where I have seen an entire paint job fail because of the wrong primer(s) being used. Anybody can PM me if they like horror stories.

 

As you get farther on your journey here and more comfortable with painting an airbrush might be in order, you can tint your primer with a similar color if you need to. I suppose you could do that with brush paints but I have never tried it on a model. Isnt 'sperimentin' fun??

 

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

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"Sperimentin" is fun Sam.  I am glad I have 2 messed up boat that I can use to practice on and experiment on.

 

So when I do my next ship, the USS Constitution 1:96, should I prime all the pieces before I start painting anything?  I am going to have a lot of questions about priming that one.  I am still kind of confused about priming. 

 

I got most of my cannons done on the deck.  I am very pleased with the outcome this time.  I used my pin vice, another great tip you guys told me to get, and opened up the holes more so the cannon pegs would fit in them.  Last time I just stuck them on without really putting the pegs in the holes because they did not fit.  It was a real mess.  Here is what it looks like so far.  You can also see that I am using a gloss over my paint.  What do you think?

 

post-7263-0-70851600-1393696450_thumb.jpg

 

post-7263-0-34451900-1393696464_thumb.jpg

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For white paint over plastic surfaces, my favorite is Tamiya white primer. It comes in spray cans, so masking is required, but it controls nicely and goes on w/ a great finish. (especially if warmed in a small pot of hot--not boiling-- water beforehand)

 

I usually glue and putty the hull halves and paint everything with Tamiya gray so I can see the details and what needs correcting. (black plastic is tough to see detail.) Another coat of gray to cover contrasting colors in putty, detail sanding, scribing,etc., then 2 fine coats of white.

 

For the Connie, you can then just mask over the white stripe and spray the rest in black. Probably all you need to do, but a finish coat w/ Tamiya semi-gloss clear would tie it all together...

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Kimberly,

Its been a long time since I built a plastic model but this what i did. With all the parts still on the trees I washed everything in lukewarm water with a bit of dish detergant and then rinsed well with clean water and left everything out to dry overnight. I then primed everything, light primer for light parts and med gray for everything else. I re-primed as needed and then painted my sub-assemblies as I went.

 

I built mostly planes then so; engines were painted before installation as were cockpit assemblies etc. Part of the challenge was determining when to paint and that comes with experience. For instance if I had a lot of small details to add to an engine assembly I painted just before I attached those parts. In your photos above I think you did the right thing painting your barrels before installation. Depending on what your plan is now might be a good time to paint those steps on your deck if they are to be a different color. I am using that as an illustration, somebody who is familiar with this kit could advise you better there.

 

As far as you choice of sheen, my personal preference is matte or eggshell/satin, but its your build, do what you like.

Hope tis helps.

sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

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post-4738-0-06623900-1393705499_thumb.jpg

 

Here are thin nice brushes I use. When wet, top of brush is narrower, almost as a needle

 

Rough one is used for takeing off paint/glue from wrong places

 

 

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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Wow!  I have gotten some great tips on priming.  I had no idea.  I will definitely follow your priming tips on my big USS Constitution that I am going to do after this small one.  So, after I get all the parts washed, then the first step is to put primer on everything before I start painting anything?

 

Well, I did it.  I finally got my white stripes to where I like them.  The hobby store said the didn't carry the dullcoat.  I will still get some somewhere else for later project.  Anyway, I decided to test the Testors white pen, and I like the results.  I am sure I am going to get a lot of practice taping off when I work on my next ship.  I am going to also practice on my spare ships.  I am just glad to have the white stripes done on this one.  I also got my other 2 masts done.

 

Nemad thanks for the brush examples.  What size is that really small one, and do you just use it for detail work?  I have brushes down to 0.

 

post-7263-0-68440000-1393713785_thumb.jpg

 

post-7263-0-91792700-1393713803_thumb.jpg

 

  

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I do not know size. Went to shop look and chose smallest one. Smaller is little trimed by me.

 

 

Left one has plastic hair (?) and others has natural "hair"

 

 

Sorry for my English. I m on the phone without Google translate

Edited by Nenad M

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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If you start spraying with paint cans, one useful device is somethin called a "can gun". I basically slips over the top of the open spray can and remotely activiates the spray button. Some people have had great results with it, others, not so much.

 

They run about 4-5 dollars at the hardware store. I like them-they seem to help the spray stay more uniform when it comes out.

 

And, I assume you've heard/read about the turning the spary can upside down when you're done, and spraying till only clear propellant comes out. That, and a wipe down of the nozzle with paint thinner, should give you a fresh start on your next spray job.

 

Could you post a pic of the Testor's paint pen? I believe I've seen it, but would like to see it again.

 

BTW, great job on the white stripe! Looks good an crisp!

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

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Kimberly, nice job with the white stripes and masts. I'm glad you're having good results with the paint pen. 

Thanks,

 

Patrick

 

YouTube Channel for fun: Patrick's Scale Studio

Finished: Model Shipways US Brig Niagara

Current: I Love Kit USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54

 

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday"

- John Wayne

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I finished putting all the pieces on the deck.  I have a question.  Some of the holes on my deck ended up too big.  Someone mentioned something about using plastic off of one of my trees and melting it down to fill in holes.  How do I do that?  Or is there some other way I am supposed to fill in gaps?  I put the gloss on the hull which blended in the black that I kept using to cover up the white stripes I didn't like.  I also got the cannons in the hull part.  Next move is to get the hull and deck together.  I am hoping like heck I get it right so the back end fits on right.  I will have Eric help me put the hull and deck together.  Here is my deck and a picture of the Testors' paint pens I am using that Harvey wanted to see.  I do know they do not carry a whole lot of colors.  At least not at the hobby store I got them at.

 

 


post-7263-0-18482700-1393863958_thumb.jpg

 

post-7263-0-17267500-1393863984_thumb.jpg

 

 

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  • 5 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Hi, just found your build log and read over it.  I have quite a bit of experience with plastic kit modeling so thought I would share some tips, if you don't mind.

Last time I built a plastic model was 1987 (and it happens to be the last model I did until I started on my first wood ship) so is been a while but I can remember allot of how I use to do things.

 

As mentioned  by src.  before you start anything on a plastic kit, clean all the parts with a degreaser first.  If you have allot of small parts and fragile parts on the trees like the constitution kit does ( I built it in the early 80's ) remove the parts place in a mason jar with water and degreaser soap and shake well then drain with a wire mesh strainer and rinse.  The reason you clean it is this.  They use a form release spray on the mold before injecting the plastic so the parts don't stick to the mold when they goto take the trees out.  This stuff is a petroleum based material and the factory doesn't remove it later, they just pack it in the box as is.  This stuff will cause no end of grief with paints and glues.

 

Glues, use thin coating.  If doing a US or european made kit use model GLUE.  if making a kit out of asian use model CEMENT.  The plastics and glue/cements are formulated differently.  US and most euro companies use the same plastic formula that when you use model glue the glue chemicaly reacts to the plastics causing them to 'weld' at the surfaces ( unless you don't get the form oil off the parts first).  Asian kits the plastic wont weld so you have to use cement.

 

Paint also does not stick well to the form oil, especially acrylics (water and oil :) ).  When painting don't over load your brush ( no bulbous glob of paint on it ).  Paint with brushs same rule with house painting  always in the same direction.  never one way then another.  Don't try to get a full covering in one coat.  Do it in layers vs a heavy coat.  Takes longer for the paint under the surface of a heavy coat to dry and paint can then run and sag.  Don't over brush your paint.  Running your brush over the same spot over and over you will see the paint start to set up and then you will shred the paint surface and  shredded paint can't be fixed by just painting over it, you have to remove it and do it again before it drys.  

 

Learn some artist paintbrush techniques like fan brushing, dry brushing, washs, fades, and so on and on...

 

Don't mix your bushes.  a brush you use for acrylic, always then acrylic.  Oil based always oil based.  They leave residues behind in the brush and especially on the adhesive used to hold the hairs together.  will make the brush deteriorate faster and effect paint you use.

 

Get some cheap throw away brushes for dirty jobs and good brushes for the good jobs.  

 

http://www.mcgillswarehouse.com/ great place to get some of your supplies like brushes.

 

Don't rely on just brushs for paint application.  Use your imagination here.  sponges, sticks, fingers q tips cotton balls, paper towel... I knew a painter that only did his paintings with a crowbar.  Need to be imaginative to solve these problems.

 

Don't remove paint mistakes with a hobby knife, or sand paper or emory board ect.  You dig into the plastic and cause it to 'whiten'  plus you disrupt the paint surface.  Keep clean paint brushs, q tips, cotton balls, paper towels, rags, toothpicks, and clean thinner handy and dry brush the excess off.  For detail removal wrap a bit of paper towel around a thin stick of wood or metal or even a toothpick.  Light bit of thinner on the towel and work the paint off. 

 

To paint straight lines mask, as mentioned.  Don't use masking tape or cellophane tape, masking is porus and cellophane will 'rip/tear at the paint as you peal the tape off.  Use a normal painters tape from any place that carries paint.  You can also use other stuff to mask with besides tape, just be sure its easy to remove later.  Like latex or silicone calking, rubber cement, elmers white school glue, greese/vasoline, modeling clay ( this one is super easy to make straight lines with), electric glue gun glue, ... use your imagination something that can it a form can be trimmed to the desired line/edge and easy to remove.  Just remember that many of these leave a residue so you need to remove that as well.  When using a mask to paint and edge.  keep the paint as THIN as possible along that masking else you will rip and tear the paint job when removing the mask ( like the cellophane tape will).  Keep as much paint OFF the mask as possible also.  If you get paint on the masking, wipe off the excess right away, don't let it set up or dry.  the more you keep off the masking when time to remove the less damage you will do to the paint job. 

 

Also brush work will help you paint straight lines.  light load your brush, start out brush AWAY from the line edge and paint INTO the line.  If you have a rippling bulge of paint on the leading edge of your brush when you brush to your line you have too much paint.  Back off and spread the paint a bit then go again.

 

Learn how to mix and thin your paints.  Many model paints are too thick when trying to do detail work.  Need to thin them out a bit.  Thin with linseed oil, not thinner ( for enamels ) unless your doing washes ( then use both )

 

Don't rely on just model paint to paint your model.  You don't have to restrict yourself to get the results you desire.  I've used inks, markers, crayons, dyes, oil paints pastels... what ever gets the results you want.   For detail work like the prow and name plate you can dry brush the color over the surfaces or you can goto a shop that sells ceramic supplies and get antiquing rubs.  They are a colored ( usually metallic shades) wax comes in a small jar like carmex.  Rub your finger on it then rub your finger over the raised surfaces you want to color,  blow off any dust, then coat it with a clear coat like mogpodge, varnish or modeling clear coat. 

 

Speaking of wax.  Get some bees wax for your rigging lines.

Edited by Grimber

Current Build Log(s):

-Swift Virginia Pilot Boat 1805- Artesania Latina 1985 no sails kit.  My first wooden ship build.

Carrack - Woodkrafter Kits

 

Completed Build Log(s):

-Pirate Ship- Woodkrafter Kits Ship in a Bottle - First ship in a bottle kit build.

-The Secret Revealed Boat in a Bottle Kit- Authentic Models - Ship In Bottle

 

On the Shelf to build:

- Build a Ship in a Bottle Kit - Authentic Models

- The Chesapeake Bay Flattie - Midwest Products

- Armistad 1832 - Serial Modellbau

- San Gabriele 1497 - Serial Modellbau

- Clara May English Ketch - Artesania Latina

- Santa Maria - Scientific

- Margaretha - Tris Model

- Paranzella - Tris Model

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  • The title was changed to USS Constitution by Kimberley - Revell - 1:196 - PLASTIC

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