Blue Ensign Posted February 26, 2014 Share #1 Posted February 26, 2014 Proxxon Micro MBS 240/E Band Saw Review Since I posted my new toy on my build log it has been suggested I write a review of this Band saw.This is really first impressions by a novice user. It may be of interest to those in the UK that the machine was purchased not from Chronos the UK Proxxon dealer, but from TBS- Aachen in Germany. Delivery was very quick, I was able to pay by Paypal, and there was a saving of £52.72 over the Chronos price, including a modest postage charge. http://www.tbs-aachen.de/Proxxon/table_top_tools/bandsaw/Proxxon_27172_MICRO_bandsaw_MBS_240/E_i2486_42358.htm A few general shots Note the push stick hanging on the side of the machine, this is included. First impressions.This is the largest of the Proxxon tools I have, measuring 19½" high x 15½" deep x 11" wide. (including the motor on the side, and the table) It sits on a base of mdf 1” thick, 9¼" wide x 12¼" deep. The machine feels sturdy, it is quite stable, but portable, and I can pick it up one handed.As can be seen below it sits comfortably on my desk. The machine arrived with a standard blade already fitted, and all that was necessary to set it up was to attach the table and get familiar with the operations.I found it useful to photocopy the exploded views in the manual so easy reference could be made to the parts etc; when reading the text. Changing blades is fairly straightforward but as a complete novice with band saws it would have been comforting to have some sort of tensioning gauge when fitting blades rather than the narrative dire warning:- putting too much tension on the blade can tear apart and damage the device.How much tension is too much tension, should there be any lateral play in the blade at all or should it feel rigid when pressed from the long side. It seemed to me that there is a range of tensions where I can’t detect differences in performance, but which is the optimum one.Tensioning is done by degrees using the knob on top of the machine, best done with the cover off where the blade can be felt. I worked on the basis of when there was minimal play in the blade on the long side and the motor ran quietly, it was about right.Access to the internals is via four Allan bolts to remove the cover which remains attached to the machine via a chain. A hinged door system would have made for quicker adjustments/cleaning. The lower running wheel with the drive pulley attached. The wheels have a plastic cover around them over which the saw blade runs. In the photo you can see a brush which clears away bits of plastic scuffed off the wheel. These are replaceable items and I have noticed that the rate of wear changes depending on the tension, but again as a novice user it is difficult to know what is normal for this machine. The machine has quite an efficient dust clearing system using the vacuum cleaner hose attachment. Using the machine.My initial use was limited to practising curved cuts on scrap wood which it easily accommodated. I progressed to cutting out the keel and false keel for my attempt at a 1:64 scale Pinnace. This is fairly fine stuff using 1.5mm boxwood sheet, and it (or perhaps me) struggled a little with the internal curves given the scale.I rather think a scroll saw would be more suited to the job, and certainly for the boat frames which are quite small.Even so this is a very useful addition to the workshop and apart from cutting more complex shapes it will replace my table saw for many jobs also. Here’s the official video of the machine. Any member who has perhaps more experience in using this particular machine please feel free to comment. B.E. Q A's Revenge, Edwardkenway, Yambo and 16 others 19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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