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Astrolabe by jrozhon - Mantua - Scale 1:50


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  • 2 weeks later...

With the deck planking finished I installed the bulwacks.  It was pretty straight foward using Hurbert's methodology and I am pleased with the results.  I now must try to locate the gun ports.  The plans that came with the model look more like an artist rendition than a blueprint.  I plan to try and locate the two ports opposite the main mast and then space the rest from  there location.  It looks to me that the vertical sides of the ports are perpendicular to the keel and they do not follow the sheer of the deck.  I hope that this is the correct approach, if not, please let me know.  Thanks 

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  • 1 month later...

With the bulwarks installed and the gun ports located and outlined it is time to plank the inside of the bulwarks.  (In my last post I misspelled that word).  I used some 7mm wide walnut that came with the kit.  After I finished planking I decided to run the width of 7mm through the scale converter and the actual width would be a little over 13 inches.  That seems a little wide but I am sure the shipbuilders in the 1800s would have had wood that wide.  My next endeavor is to install the timberheads out of 2x3mm strips.  I think then I will stain the wood with walmut stain to even out the color followed by a clear coat.  Well that is the plan, we will see how it goes.

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  • 2 months later...

Well it has been some time since my last post.  My daughter and I both had some health issues that are all corrected now and I did finely get the material I ordered, thanks to the UK. I finished installing the timberheads and the parts that go along the deck between the timberheads.  All went well until I had to bend some very small pieces of 2mm x 3mm walnut.  I soaked them in water and clamped them in a curling iron for a few minutes and they came out with the correct curve.  I even put some timberheads at the stern.  I then stained the bulwarks and timberheads with some walnut stain thinking it would even out the color.  It came out OK, but I think that it may have been too dark a stain.  Since I am new to ship modeling, I don't know what would have been the correct color or shade.

 

I guess it on to the secold planking.  Wish me luck.  Thanks

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Hi J--Hope you and your daughter are both back to 100%!  I've been following your build with interest and I think everything is going to turn out well.  Your craftsmanship is evident.

Tom

 

 

Current: Sergal Sovereign of the Seas

Previous builds:  AL Swift, AL King of the Mississippi, Mamoli Roter Lowe, Amati Chinese Junk, Caesar, Mamoli USS Constitution, Mantua HMS Victory, Panart San Felipe, Mantua Sergal Soleil Royal

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thanks so much for the kind words.  My daughter and I are doing very well.  The forums have been the inspiration and much of the know-how I am using on my model.

 

Thanks again

 

jeff 

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  • 2 months later...

Again, its been some timesince my last post.  I have sold my house and I am in the process of moving to my condo, much less work and smaller.  I have started the second planking on the starboard side with the first six stakes which are the easiest to do and then I will do the same on the port side.  I extended them to the stern even though they will be covered by the gallery.  Then, I am going to cut out the gun ports and install the wales and then the main rail.  I still have no idea how I will plank the first turn or corner at the stern filler block.  I hope if I can get the first one (stake 7) correct the rest will follow.  Until next time, Thanks

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A new build I haven't seen before (well, an older build I suppose, but new to me).  I've never seen the Astrolabe before, interesting how the first planking is not extended into the bow and stern filler.  Will be interested to see how that works as you complete it.

 

Great job so far, it's looking fine!

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Thanks for the kind words. I got the idea from Hurbert  Sicard web side Wooden ship modeling for dummies.  This was his way of planking and since I have not ever built a model ship I thought it was a good idea to use the first planking as practice. I hope it will turn out well. Again, thanks for the kind words 

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Hi

 

I read in the description of the kit I found on www that the hull is only single planked. It seems you do a second planking. Can you help me? Is this right - and is this recommended in the instructions or was it your idea to do a second planking? I am a fan of the Astrolabe and it is a part of my immense wishlist :D But I am not sure if I want to have just one layer of planks... you have almost no chance to correct some mistakes.

 

Thx and Cheerio

 

Max

 

:10_1_10:

Next: Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde by Euro Model 1:47

 

Finished: Half Moon Corel;  HMY Royal Caroline Panart; HMB Endeavour Occre 1:54; Fregatte Berlin, Corel, 1:40

 

 

A life without dogs is possible... but worth to live?

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the two layers of planking is not my idea. I got it from Hubert Sicard web site wooden ship modeling for dummies. He shows you the entire procedure There is a one time charge to join the web site. I have been using it for several years.  I was like you I wanted to use two layers of planking so I could correct any errors on the first planking.  The web address is shipmodeling.ca.  Good luck

jeff

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Hi Jeff,

 

thx a lot for the link. I will visit the site asap

 

cheerio

 

Max

Next: Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde by Euro Model 1:47

 

Finished: Half Moon Corel;  HMY Royal Caroline Panart; HMB Endeavour Occre 1:54; Fregatte Berlin, Corel, 1:40

 

 

A life without dogs is possible... but worth to live?

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  • 2 months later...

Well I finally got move into my condo and as a result I lost my big studio and am now confined to a closet.  I am sure that many a find model were built in a closet.  I finished the port side second planking (fist 6 stakes) and now I am going to cut out the gun ports.  The tools are simple a saw, knife, end snips and a homemade sander.  Before I started cutting, I taped the outside of the openings to avoid splintering, the timberheads protected the inside.  I then cut about half way down the gun port on both sides with the saw and  cut out the wood from the center to the edge with a hobby knife and removed the center with the end snips.  I continued to the bottom of the port and squared them with the sanding strip.  This is the procedure I used for all 16 gun ports.  My next challenge is going to construct the top rail.. The directions with the model call for a lamented rail made from 7 walnut strips taped  to the side of the vessel to form the curve then rip cut down the middle to make the port and starboard sides.  I am going to try and make one from solid pieces of bass wood stained.  I am going to need some luck!!  Again, thanks for all the kind words of encouragement, support and help.  

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  • 1 month later...

Well I got back to work and started on my cap rail.  My first task was to make a card template from the port and starboard sides of the vessel which was transferred to some 3mm x 2 inch bass wood and I cut it out on my scroll saw.  I bought this saw from Harbor Fright Tool Co. for $70.00 and I was really surprised as to how well it works considering the price. Also, It is variable speed.  Then I was just a matter of sanding and gluing it to the top of the timberheads.  I bought some 2mm half round molding, painted it flat black and glued it to the outside edge of the cap rail.  Gluing it was a real challenge and no matter how many times I used a wet rag to wipe off the excess glue I still got some light spots when I stained the rail.  Even so, it looks pretty good.

 

Now it's back to the second planking.  I still do not have a good way of clamping the stakes until the glue dries. I am going to try push pins to start with and go from there.  Again thanks for all y'alls support and help.

  

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have gotten back to work and I have installed 5 stakes of the second planking at the keel on both the starboard and port sides.  I bought some of those metal clamps for the hull planking and I was surprised at how well they work.  I had to file them down to the thickness of my material, but after that, they worked.  I did not have to drill very many holes since there were holes available from the first planking.  Now I have to add five more to the top of the hull and I guess I will just have to come up with a way to plank the stern.  If I can get these 5 installed I believe I will be able to complete the planking

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I think the beginner here has a real problem and I don't have any idea what would be the best solution.  I added two more stakes at the top of the port side hull.  Based on the information I have gleaned from the forum and other sources, these planks have not been tapered.  They have laid very straight with out any side bending.  I put another batten strip on the vessel and it shows that I am running out of space at the bow.  I have 125mm at amidships which will take 25 5mm stakes to cover.  At the bow I have 50mm and at no.10 bulkhead, aft of the bow I have 80mm.  At the stern I have 101mm along the gallery floor and the stem post and 90mm at bulkhead 1 just forward of the stem.

 

At the bow the stakes will have to be 2mm to fit and that is to narrow.  At bulkhead 10 the stakes will be 3.2mm which is OK but narrow .  At the stern the stakes will be 4.04mm which is OK but at bulkhead 1 the stakes will be 3.6mm which means that the stakes will narrow the widen again.

 

The only idea I have is to use drop planks at the bow on all remaining stakes starting at bulkhead 9 or 10 and use stealers at the stern.

 

Please give me a hand here, I am sure some of you experienced modelers have run into this before. Thank you in advance for your help! 

 

 

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I have added 5 additional planks to the top of both sides of the vessel.  I think my mistake was as a result of the first planking.  I was given to understand that the first five planks from below the deck line, and from the  keel were to be installed without tapering and to let them run unrestrained which was not a problem because they did not run all the way to the bow and stern. I used the same method on the second planking from below the bulwarks and up from the keel resulting in lack of space at the bow and stern.  I think I will be all right at the stern but the bow is going to be a tight fit.  I was going to use drop planks but I am using 5mm planks which are not wide enough to cover two planks at bulkhead 2 and 3.  My question is, would it be acceptable to buy say 7mm planks to use for the drop planks, or would it look better with the narrow planks at the bow?

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  • 1 month later...

Well I got back from my 30 day trip to China and Southeast Asia and recovered from the jet lag, and got some work done on my model.

 

I still am not sure about using drop planks, so I decided to try and see what happens.  While I was gone, I ordered some.5mm x 8mm  planking material from Cornwall Models in England.  I decided to start using drop planks from number one bulkhead to the bow.  I still believe I will need to use stealers at the stern.  I added two more planks on the port side and stopped them at the first bulkhead.  I then added the drop plank and tapered it to a little less than 4mm at the bow.  There are 3 more planks in this belt and then I will start on the starboard side.  If Y'all have any other ideas I would love to hear from you.  Thanks again. 

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  • 3 months later...

It 's been some time since my last post and I finally finished the second planking of my vessel.  My inexperience in ship modeling real shows in the planking,  I tried using the drop planks but , again I was quickly running out of room at the bow and stern So, I went back to the 5mm planks and kept installing until I was out of space at the bow so I had to use a herringbone pattern to complete the job.  I should not have run so many planks without some taper at the bow and stern.  By the time I realized the results, it was too late to correct the error. I feel that after I sand and finish the planking the vessel will look OK but I would not want sail on her.  Thanks for your help I am glad to be able to do some other task other than planking.

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  • 8 months later...

I finally was able to get some work done on my model.  I am so glad to be finished with the planking.

That took a long time.  I then spent some time filling in and sanding and trying to correct some imperfections.  Then I installed the wales.  These were difficult to bend because they were 2mm thick so I cut some small kerfs in the back toward the bow which make bending much easier.  I also finished the beak which took some time since everything had to be fitted around the wales and the bow sprit.  Fitting the gallery pieces was even more difficult because I had to bend the plywood parts in three different plains.  I but two coats of stain on the hull and sanded it between the coats and one coat of satin clear finish.  I think it came out quite well considering all the problems I had with the planking.  I am now turning my addition to the deck furniture.

 

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  • 4 months later...

I got some work done on my model.  To finish this project is going to take a long time but I knew that fact when I started.  What I did not know was this "kit" is a box  of building material with very few parts prefabricated.  I did not know that I would have to make so many parts.  I think that's what makes the project a challenge.  I finished my deck furniture and installed the rudder.  Again, I had to make three hinges the stern post was too wide after being planked.  My next challenge is the blacking some brass parts.  My problem is that the finish easily comes off after it is dry. I am going to try a clear coat, but that will be difficult on very small parts.

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