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HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72

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It's certainly a shame that all of the data has been lost.  It was a wonderful resource.  I still have some of the photos of my progress on the Vanguard and I will try to put these up now. I have just competed the wales and the first of the decorative strips (above the top wale) and I will post these when I get a chance.


I have just looked at this post and the photos have apparently gone up in reverse order. As well I was only able to load 9 files to the post, rather than the 10 that was advised elsewhere. The new format will take some getting used to. I hope my next attempt will be a bit less chaotic.


I have tried to add some more photos with comments and have tried to preview the added post. I'm afraid it looks like a dogs breakfast.  I'm going to submit it and see what turns up. It is VERY frustrating.



post-823-0-49526800-1361422008_thumb.jpg This photo and the two below show my solution to the placement of the last timber strip to the main wale.


post-823-0-64379000-1361426903_thumb.jpgHere is the stern view of the completed main wale.


post-823-0-51146500-1361427226_thumb.jpg Starting the top wale.  I first soak the first strip for a couple of hours, then clamp it in the correct position, leaving it overnight. This gives the correct curvature,  I then glue it to the model complete and then cut the holes for the gunports. The remaining strip can then fitted easily below the first. 













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  • 1 month later...

1. I have not looked at my log for a while, but it seems as if some photos have been lost. Has anyone else had this problem?


2. I am now painting the side galleries (I will be updating the log in the next few days) and am using Humbrol satin black as suggested in the kit instructions.  The colour seems to me to be too shiny.  I am now considering using Matt black instead.  Has those who have used the satin found it satisfactory?

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On the paint, this may seem silly, but did you really really really stir it? I've found that with non-gloss paints the mattefying stuff tends to separate to the bottom in a nearly solid clump so it doesn't re-integrate with shaking. you need to stir it with something solid like a toothpick vigorously and then shake it vigorously to thoroughly mix the paint. then do a test strip. if it is still too shiny then go for matte.


As far as pics...check the forum on site problems and questions...if other people are having that problem there would be posts there...I'm personally not.


Also not everyone checks the forums daily so it might take over 24 hours to get an answer to a question within your log....

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Thanks for your reply.  Yes, I stirred the paint with a piece of 3x1mm timber strip. At this stage it's not really a problem as the black paint on the side galleries will be mostly covered by decoration. I guess I will use the satin for a couple of coats and if I don't like the effect, put a couple of coats of matt over it. I will then put 2 or 3 coats of matt estapol over that and hope that it turns out acceptably.

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I have finally got around to finishing the second layer of planking, the wales and the decorative strips.post-823-0-27092800-1364619790_thumb.jpgThe next few pictures show the steps and the decorative strips. I am not all that happy with the steps.  Looking at the plan (too late) I realised the steps are superimposed on the decorative strips.  With hindsight I should have cut the strips leaving space for the steps.post-823-0-22436700-1364620888_thumb.jpgHere are the quarter galleries.  They need a couple more coats of matt paint.post-823-0-15955900-1364621114_thumb.jpgI have decided to try Kristal Klear for the windows.  The windows pictured show some in the process of drying (showing white).  Once dry, they become completely clear. It takes a bit of time to get the knack, but the results seem to be really good (so far).






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The wood is wallnut   I wasn't too pleased with its quality. Much of it still had milling marks, there were some knots,  and there was a wide variation in colour. I tried to match the colours of the strips on both sides of the model.  It turned out well, but as I will paint it, it was probably a waste of time. Looking at it now, it does seem a shame that the timber will be coverered with paint.


Thanks for your interest.



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Yes is it ashame paint will cover that beautiful wood. Looks like its a mix of heart wood and sap wood with those colour variations, if its walnut. I know historically many of the ships were painted for preservation purposes. I just dont know if I could paint that beautiful wood. Personally I like the grain and colour variation more then if in all matched, but then I'm a wood-a-holic. I've been scraping the hull on my Swift, I just got a schmoo shaped scraper and I loving the way it fits nearly all the concave parts of the hull.



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When adding the photos I put them in the correct order, but in looking at my post they are all over the place.  I have no idea why.attachicon.gifmsw203.jpgThis one seemed to get lost in the shuffle.

 Bob - once you load the pictures you want , you should click the 'add' button next to the file name, it will add the picture name into text, that way you can control how and where the photos show.


Will watch your build with interest now I've found it, she has lovely lines and you're doing a great job.  Just out of interest, how does the 'crystal clear' work?

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I have finally completed and fitted the screen bulkhead assembly. The 'glass' turned out well.  The two pillars closest to the sides need to be trimmed a little (about 1/2mm ech ) to fit which was a bit awkward.


Incidentally I have found Super Glue Gel (CA) is ideal for positioning pieces of decoration. It doesn't run, and a few small drops applied by a pin gives you time to position the piece. In Australia you can get it at Bunnings (Selleys Quick Fix in a small green tube) or ZAP Gel at hobby shops.  For most other things I now use slow setting (it's still fairly quick) CA (either ZAP or Delta with the yellow labels).


I have now decided to paint the hull before coppering the bottom.  I will follow Arthur's method in layng the plates with the vertical nail impressions towards the stern and the horizontal impression towards the bottom.








Edited by RMC
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  • 4 weeks later...

My comments on the first few pictures I have just posted have apparently disapeared into the ether. The first three show marking out the water line using an Amati marker (good but expensive and probably not good value).  The other picture is a piece of decoration which has been carved to provide more depth (copied/inspired by Arthur (AEW) than the flat and unrealistic ply as supplied.


As well the pictures have gone up in reverse order.  Very odd.

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The Nelson checker.  I'm concerned about how I can get nice clear boundaries between the black and the yellow, particularly over some of the decorative moldings.  I will use Tamiya masking tape.  I've used it in the past and it works well.  I've also bought some Humbrol Maskol which I haven''t used before - so here's hoping.


I'm off for a few days down the coast south of Sydney and I'll put the yellow on while I'm down there.

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Hi Arthur

Just got back.  We've had some amazing weather over the last couple of weeks and I'll post a photo of the huge seas taken from our place.  It may give some idea of the conditions these ships had to face every so often.


I've put three coats of yellow across the gun ports of the upper gun deck. I have found that it needs a full day for the Humbrol paint to dry sufficiently to sand back (I've used 800 and 1000 glass paper).  It's very awkward around the steps and the skid beams (thanks for the tip on the all-black colouring), and it looks as if another two or three coats of yellow will be needed to give a really good finish.


Did you use an airbrush?  I'm thinking of doing the matt black with a spray can of ordinary enamel so I can cover all the paint work with Estapol ( a type of clear matt polyurethane).  I found out after buying the Humbrol varish, that it is unsuitable for spraying over enamel.


The Maskol did a fairly good job but I'll still have to do some touching up of the gun ports.  As well, you can only leave the Maskol on for no more than 3 days so I'll have to do the masking again.

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I have just lost  a post in the ether. I accidentally hit the right mouse button and that was that.


So here I go again.  I have completed putting on the waterline battens.  I used lime wood as it is flexible and, as it is light coloured, shows up any mistakes. With a few adjustments here or there it has come out quite well. As some of the curves are quite tight it was easiest to put the battens up in pieces making the joins wedge-shaped to make them unobtrusive.  The battens will be painted black later so that any minor blemishes should (I hope) disappear.


I have put four coats of yellow over the upper gundeck ports, sanding between each coat. It took a week as the Humbrol takes about 36 hours to dry sufficiently to sand.












Edited by RMC
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been painting the yellow 'stripes' for what seems like weeks.  The Humrol paints need 4 to 5 coats, sanding between coats, to give a good finish.  Each coat needs at least 24 hours to dry properly for sanding (800 - 1200 grit). I have used Humbrol maskol for the first time.  Once you get the knack (put it on quite thickly), it's very effective, though I missed some bits, so there are a few minor paint marks on the gunports. The stuff must be taken off after 3 days  - I cheated and left it on for 4 without ill effect - but given the number of coats required and the time needed, the time limit is a bit of  pain.  The following pictures I hope will give you some idea of how the stuff looks when you take it off. The painting has not yet been touched up.







I have now finished the roudhouses, painted (there's still some masking tape shown in the picture) and attached the decoration.




I made a mess of the gundeck stairs - put them at too steep an angle and I have one 'half' of the stairs bigger than the other. For some inexplicable reason I left them as they were when I glued them to the hatch.  Moreover I didn't make provision on the lower deck for the stanchions (I know I am not alone in that). But I did come up with a solution to all but the problem of the badly divided stairs  As you will see I tacked on two pieces of previously drilled wood to the bottom of the stairs. Fitted all the stanchions  and the rope - and so the whole assembly is complete and ready to fit whenever it is least likely to be damaged.  The picture showing it on the ship shows it dry-fitted.








Finally, for those who may be interested, here are the ship's boats that I completed some time ago.
















Edited by RMC
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I am beginning to think of making the masts and yards as separate projects to do when I am away from home.


I have been looking at small woodworking lathes and it seems that the Proxxon DB 250 is a good one and not too expensive.  The problem is that the centre-distance is only 250mm and many of the masts and yards of the Vanguard are far longer than this.  I know nothing about  lathes.  Is there a way of turning longer masts/yards with this machine?


Any advice would be welcome.



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