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plank entire second layer length with one strip?


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Be carefull if cutting the planks to scale length that your planks are all the same width ,have read where people got into problems because of only minor variations in plank widths . One solution is to cut one plank at a time ! Can also depend on scale 

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I have done it both ways and found it much easier to shape the plank for the entire length.  As was also pointed out, the width of the planks supplied in kits is not very consistent and when applying subsequent rows of planks cut to scale length it required constant adjustment in order to get a smooth line without gaps.  

 

I agree with Chuck, score the planks to scale to simulate the length.

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Greetings,

 

Either way, but if you plank with scale plank lengths, make sure you follow the planking protocol regarding butt spacing. Since you will be planking over the first layer, you won't have to worry about butt blocks for butts that don't land on framing. Also, I never bother with trying to simulate trunnels in decks or hull planking, or dimpling copper sheathing because the scale never works and the end result is not worth the effort, in my opinion.

 

wq3296 

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I'm not sure if wq3296 was saying you don't need to worry about th elocations of the butt joints or that you didn't have to structurally worry if the joint fell on a bulkhead or not...however...   you should ensure that the joints fall on actual bulkheads or 'notional frames' and are not just randomly scattered around the hull.

 

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Greetings Chuck,

 

Did you see the reference to planking protocol in my post? Planking protocol means that the butts are properly spaced according to convention and not randomly placed. See the many articles that have been written on this subject. Since Vossy already has the first layer down, he won't have the concern of butts falling between two bulkheads and having to use butt blocks to support the plank ends. By all means, randomly placed butt ends should be avoided.

 

wq3296           

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WQ,

    Sorry, I missed that.  No offense intended.  I wanted to emphasize the point because I found many new modelers (including myself) don't necessarily consider that.  It wasn't until I started studying ship's internal structure and how ships were really made that I fully understood the process.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hmmmm....

 

but what can I do, if the hull is longer than the planks are added to the kit? Buy longer ones - but that means double pay for single result... Or are there always planks that are long enough (sorry - I am quite new, had only one model yet)?

 

Cheerio

 

Max

 

:10_1_10:

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Vossy,

Whether you use one  long strip or in shorter lengths, the width is an issue in that it is supposed to change, especially between the dead flat and the bow.  Each plank should narrow as the space for the planks reduces the closer you get to the bow. Look at the cross section at the dead flat and another cross section toward the bow. If you do not do this there will be too many drop planks.  The stern has the opposite issue in that the planks often need to get wider, or stealers need to be added.

 

Check out http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf  This should help.

 

Allan

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It's really up to you, vossie.  But Allan has pointed you in a good direction.  If you are using strictly kit-supplied wood you may not have the freedom to adjust the plank widths at the stern but the tutorial he gave you will give you the concept of how it's done.  Personally, I prefer the look of scale length planks.

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One last comment.  Width variation on kit-supplied planks is often the most pronounced near the ends of the plank.  For that reason, I generally cut off the very end and discard.  As Chris mentioned, almost every one needs to be tweaked anyway. 

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