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HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft


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Vasileios, yes - parts sometimes appear multiple times on different plans.

 

Stergios, hopefully picture below helps. Took a while for me to figure it out.

- The hull plans typically show the part number (this should match the instruction book).

- On the rigging plans, the numbers you see refer to the number assigned to the line/rope, and these are referenced on multiple sheets (sometimes just the start, the end or the whole)

 

In this case, one of part identified as 165 appears on sheet 1. However, if you look at sheet 3, you can see the bulwark cleats identified (circled below). There are 6 identified (for lines 50, 5 and 55), but only 4 supplied. If you look closely on sheet 4 you can see that line 5 does not require a bulwark cleat, and this I believe is an error. I installed the bulwark cleats (part 165) in the positions indicated by lines 50 and 55 on sheet 3.

 

I haven't completed the ship yet to know whether this is correct and others may have interpreted this differently, but I spent a lot of time thinking about this.

 

If it would be helpful I could try to send a photo to illustrate what this looked like.

 

post-891-0-43998200-1382536335_thumb.jpg

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Anytime Stergios, I hope I'm actually helping and not leading you astray - this may be a case of the blind leading the blind!

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Sorry for another add on - just occurred to me. Don't believe you've installed the channels or chains yet, that is something to consider doing as well before mounting the cannons - especially as the barrels protrude slightly and could be easily knocked when installing the chains. The channels also give a bit of protection, I'm sure others would have advice here as well.

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Sorry for another add on - just occurred to me. Don't believe you've installed the channels or chains yet, that is something to consider doing as well before mounting the cannons - especially as the barrels protrude slightly and could be easily knocked when installing the chains. The channels also give a bit of protection, I'm sure others would have advice here as well.

Don't worry!

My next, consecutive steps are: the pinrrails, the channels and finally the guns.

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I will echo Jason here again. Get your channels and pinrails on first. Don't know about Jason but my channels required a couple of friendly taps with a hammer to get the pins fully home both in the channel and the hull.

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

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Vasileios, yes - parts sometimes appear multiple times on different plans.Stergios, hopefully picture below helps. Took a while for me to figure it out.- The hull plans typically show the part number (this should match the instruction book).- On the rigging plans, the numbers you see refer to the number assigned to the line/rope, and these are referenced on multiple sheets (sometimes just the start, the end or the whole)In this case, one of part identified as 165 appears on sheet 1. However, if you look at sheet 3, you can see the bulwark cleats identified (circled below). There are 6 identified (for lines 50, 5 and 55), but only 4 supplied. If you look closely on sheet 4 you can see that line 5 does not require a bulwark cleat, and this I believe is an error. I installed the bulwark cleats (part 165) in the positions indicated by lines 50 and 55 on sheet 3.I haven't completed the ship yet to know whether this is correct and others may have interpreted this differently, but I spent a lot of time thinking about this.If it would be helpful I could try to send a photo to illustrate what this looked like.attachicon.gifIMG_0509.JPG

Jason,

 

The way I read the plans, it looked like the cleats for lines 50 and 55 were larger than for line 5. Therefore, I installed the four bulwark cleats at 50 and 55, and two deck cleats at 5.

 

This could be wrong also but hey ho.

 

Jim

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

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Jim, you probably took a safer, wiser course!  This is the picture I was referring to below (from plan sheet 4) which shows how "line 5" terminates, some sort of arrangement tied or hooked onto eyebolts on the channels.  If I'm misinterpreting this please let me know as I'm still not 100% confident I know how to read the plans.

post-891-0-86931600-1382705653_thumb.jpg

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Line 5 should terminate on the cleat an line four should end at a belaying pin.

There are only three eyepins at the place on the channel and I read that the hooks and a single block attach to these.

The rear eyepin is for a top gallant stay I think.

Jim

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

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I've tried to improve the gunports profile this morning adding a second layer of red ochre paint.... Bedides the fact that I placed tamiya's tape for security, the accident of leakage to the outer (natural wood) bulwarks has happened thrice... :(

After a couple of efforts to handle this problem I really felt that I liked that cherry-wood like "camouflage" appearance of the wood. Took the decision to extend that looking to the rest of the bulwarks using 1-2 drops of red ochre diluted in matt vallejo's varnish.

I like the short-time results, I'll wait to apply a second layer tommorow trying to have a more uniform coverage of this strange-mixture and I'll see...

In case of unwanted results, a more formal (walnut ?) painting of the wood will be one-way solution.... 

post-944-0-78476600-1382981603_thumb.jpg

post-944-0-80610700-1382981620_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stergios
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I've attached temporarily the channels in place.

Learning all the time from your experience, I'd like to ask you my friends about the order of channels, deadeyes and chain-links assembly.

I've read a relative post by Jim, but I did not realize exactly the right conscecutive steps of the whole procedure.

Thank you in advance!!

post-944-0-04291100-1383397185_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stergios
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If I were to do this section again I would pin and glue the channels in place, solder all the strops and chain assemblies together and then fix in place in the channels. Finally once secured, start pinning the chains to the hull.

Hope this helps.

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

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If I were to do this section again I would pin and glue the channels in place, solder all the strops and chain assemblies together and then fix in place in the channels. Finally once secured, start pinning the chains to the hull.

Hope this helps.

Copy that, Jim.

Many thanks!!

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No worries. My main issue is that my strops and chains aren't soldered and so are a potential weak point. Fortunately only one had failed whilst rigging the shrouds. Managed to fix with black rigging thread and is unnoticeable.

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

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No worries. My main issue is that my strops and chains aren't soldered and so are a potential weak point. Fortunately only one had failed whilst rigging the shrouds. Managed to fix with black rigging thread and is unnoticeable.

Basically, now I'm thinking to attach the wire-stropped deadeyes and chain assemblies to the channels and afterwards glue the channels on the hull....  

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Stergios, I'd add the following.  Like Jim, I didn't solder mine - I tried and failed!  You can bend the metal strops so they close pretty well, but the chains can pop out if there is undue pressure.  To alleviate this concern, I ended up putting some epoxy in the slots when all was complete to eliminate this risk.

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/509-hms-snake-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-scale-1-64-first-wooden-ship-build/page-14#entry64038

 

I'd also suggest you consider the following points, I thought I'd documented what I did pretty well at the time, but going back and reading it afresh there is fair bit omitted.

 

The chains want to be in line with the shrouds and stays.  You can get the correct line by tying some thread to a dowel at the appropriate height and then trace where the various fixing points should be.

post-891-0-46162200-1383426902_thumb.jpg

Given than the two end fixing points are defined (most of the chains attach to the wale) and the deadeyes sit on the channels, the length of the chain is then defined.  Using the kit supplied pieces will at best result in a gap.  Making your own is an options using thick wire and bending manually - you can get a more authentic look as each chain is custom fit for its position.  The kit supplied pieces are all the same size even though the lengths needed vary.  Takes longer but for me had more satisfying result.

post-891-0-91160600-1383427230_thumb.jpg

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Hi Jason, and thanks for typing so much helping info....

Yes, I saw your previous post but I thought the chain length discrepancy as a theoritical complication which I should be solving away...but given that the chains are all of the same size, yes this might be a cause of concern....

I'll start to place the deadeys first and I'll see...

Thanks again.

 

Stergios

 

PS: Why to use some epoxy and not some cyanoacrylate ?

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I believe that the epoxy is a much better solution if there are gaps to fill as here, and it seems to have worked fine.  I've always assumed that CA is just a surface-surface adhesive - others with more experience here can probably comment....and yes, I did use the supplied metal strops.    Personally I didn't find this the most fun task but the results are highly visible and its worth spending the time to get it how you want it.  Best of luck Stergios, looking forward to seeing your progress.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Another today's question: have you stropped the deadeyes using the standard kit wire?

Thanks

Well, I just have realized that I don't have to create my own wire-strops for the dead eyes.!

These are already included in the standard kit...  :D

post-944-0-29173100-1383489061_thumb.jpg

post-944-0-53057700-1383489102_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stergios
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