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HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft


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Following your advice, started to solder the strops...

Bonding the edges of the strops is'nt so easy, propably my technique is not the appropriate one, as is the first time I'm trying to do this, but step by step it's getting better.

Hope that solder bonding to withstand the tension of the shrouds/chainlinks....

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Nice job Stergios those looked to turn out nicely.  Did you just use a regular soldering iron? 

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Thats how I did mine Stergios, the solder holds very well and if done carefully is easily covered with a dab of black paint once the flux has been cleaned away. I used a small 10W iron.

 

Norman

Norman

 

 

Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck.

Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake.

Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon.

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Thats how I did mine Stergios, the solder holds very well and if done carefully is easily covered with a dab of black paint once the flux has been cleaned away. I used a small 10W iron.

 

Norman

Hi Norman, is it important the level of power (ie 10W), in this case ?

Thank you.

Edited by Stergios
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Stergios, I'd add the following.  Like Jim, I didn't solder mine - I tried and failed!  You can bend the metal strops so they close pretty well, but the chains can pop out if there is undue pressure.  To alleviate this concern, I ended up putting some epoxy in the slots when all was complete to eliminate this risk.

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/509-hms-snake-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-scale-1-64-first-wooden-ship-build/page-14#entry64038

 

I'd also suggest you consider the following points, I thought I'd documented what I did pretty well at the time, but going back and reading it afresh there is fair bit omitted.

 

The chains want to be in line with the shrouds and stays.  You can get the correct line by tying some thread to a dowel at the appropriate height and then trace where the various fixing points should be.

attachicon.gifchain1.JPG

Given than the two end fixing points are defined (most of the chains attach to the wale) and the deadeyes sit on the channels, the length of the chain is then defined.  Using the kit supplied pieces will at best result in a gap.  Making your own is an options using thick wire and bending manually - you can get a more authentic look as each chain is custom fit for its position.  The kit supplied pieces are all the same size even though the lengths needed vary.  Takes longer but for me had more satisfying result.

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Hi Jason

How didi you close the loops of your own (custom made)  wire chains? Using epoxy or cyano glue?

Thank you again.

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Dry fitting of the deadeys of the right main channel...

Next step is to secure the soldering adding a micro drop of cyano glue, black paint touch up and glue/stabilize the deadeyes to the channlel's slots with cyano.

Final step is to fix and glue the pinned channel on the hull.

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Hi Jason

How didi you close the loops of your own (custom made)  wire chains? Using epoxy or cyano glue?

Thank you again.

 

Stergios, didn't close the chains with anything, creating the chain with the 'joint' down a side like the PE part gives them a lot of strength.  Your strops look great.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Strops soldering is quite difficult.

Their material is 'nt copper, so bonding the edges with solder is a real headache for me....

Well I've found the solution....

A little bit of filling was needeed to emerge the undercover copper-material of the strops.

The rest of soldering works pretty well now.  :)

Thanks Vasilios !!  :dancetl6:

Edited by Stergios
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I had no problem soldering my strops but you do have to ensure the area to be soldered is very clean and I used some extra rosin flux, they are of a copper metal. I have used either a 12W or 25W iron and old fashioned lead based electrical solder.

 

Make sure your wales are in the correct position as mine where out and I had to take out the slack in the chains by building them up with solder. You cant see the error once painted.

 

Norman

Edited by normanh

Norman

 

 

Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck.

Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake.

Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon.

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I had no problem soldering my strops but you do have to ensure the area to be soldered is very clean and I used some extra rosin flux, they are of a copper metal. I have used either a 12W or 25W iron and old fashioned lead based electrical solder.

 

Norman

Yep, I believe that additional rosin flux could help better....

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Started to shape my own chain loops. Temporary placement of the chains...

The measurement, assembly and above all closure (by soldering or gluing) of the loops on the model (as the deadeys of the right main channels are permanently glued with cyano) are pretty challenging.

My basic concern is the visual appearance of the solder/flux knot that bridges the edges of the loop...

Thinking of leave the edges of tha e loops touching each other without any bonding.

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Edited by Stergios
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That's looks great Stergios, makes a big difference to the look of the ship doesn't it! The loops are pretty strong without any bonding, and even if there is a small gap they are pretty well hidden if you put them at the back like you've done.

 

Something I found helpful (I took the exact same approach as you with the nails to bend the loops) was to add a number of nails in a circular pattern each with a slightly different distance from the center - that way you can measure the gap and then make a loop of correct size quite quickly.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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That's looks great Stergios, makes a big difference to the look of the ship doesn't it! The loops are pretty strong without any bonding, and even if there is a small gap they are pretty well hidden if you put them at the back like you've done.

 

Something I found helpful (I took the exact same approach as you with the nails to bend the loops) was to add a number of nails in a circular pattern each with a slightly different distance from the center - that way you can measure the gap and then make a loop of correct size quite quickly.

Thank you Jason for the feedback!

 

The problem was the stropped deadeyes of the main channel (starboard) which I had glued permanently, so trying to assemble the custom made loops on it was a very painfull story especially for the occasion of soldering and closing the loops.

From a "biomechanical" point of view I was told that only minor pulling forces could be applicable on the loops. I believe that this is not a serious problem even for the next, rigging period....

That's way i tend to not close the loop-rings just to gain a more cosmetic result.

Edited by Stergios
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In the other hand I have to assemble five more channels...

I could try to assemble and solder the deadeyes and all the channel's "accesories"  in advance and finally place and fix them on the channels and the hull respectively, like Jim suggests.

That's all for today, I'm leaving the shipyard after the permanent gluing of all the channels on the hull. 

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Edited by Stergios
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Today's progress: all the channels permanently glued in place.

Starboard  chain links and custom made long chain (closed) loops hanging from the relative channel.

Next steps: primer application, painting and final pinning on the hull.

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Edited by Stergios
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...as I'm ready to place my next order (propably to cornwall model boats) I'd like to ask your suggestion my friends.

Except the aftermarket next 14 pieces of 32's carronade kits I'm about to order what kind of other fittings (I'm concerned especially for the guns and deck tackling ropes (size, color, etc)) do you suggest to ask for?

Thank you as always in advance.

 

Stergios

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Good question Stergios!  I'd suggest looking at the pump kit, its very cheap and offers a big improvement on the kit supplied items - C87160 Elm Tree Pumps, 1:64 Scale

 

Can't remember whether you had decided to use the aftermarket belaying pins (they are a huge improvement in the kit supplied stuff) - C86001 Belaying Pin 9.75x1.5mm Walnut

 

Also consider getting some of the small eyebolts, these are pretty useful (for making hooks if you want, handles on the carronade screw, etc).  - C83505 Brass Etched Eyelet 0.3mm (250)

 

Part references are from the CMB site.  Just a few suggestions...

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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...as I'm ready to place my next order (propably to cornwall model boats) I'd like to ask your suggestion my friends.

Except the aftermarket next 14 pieces of 32's carronade kits I'm about to order what kind of other fittings (I'm concerned especially for the guns and deck tackling ropes (size, color, etc)) do you suggest to ask for?

Thank you as always in advance.

 

Stergios

Hi Jason and thanks

all the above mentioned aftermarket fittings are already in my shipyard.

Wanted to ask especially for the ropes. Ropes for gun and deck assemblies and tackling.

Cheers.

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They look nice Stergios.  The pricing seemed rather complex so difficult to know how expensive this would be.  Why not give them a go?

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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