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Ulises Victoria

Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French Vessel- 126 cannons- Started in April 10 2014

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Hi Ulises, thanks very much for sharing the results of your finish experiment.  I'm actually thinking of building the Charles Morgan whaler with a weathered appearance, and recently placed an order for Weather-It and a few other weathering applications.  I was worried that adding a finish could affect the results of the application, and it seems like that might the case unfortunately :(  Thanks for sharing, and wonderful build!

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Ulises,

 

I'm known to be skeptical (seller claims new), this price is probably even below mainstream vendors cost IMO. "If its too good to be true"....The seller does have an excellent history however. Certainly a beautiful ship. As some say its a crap shoot. Again I'm a very doubtful type.

 

Michael

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I only posted it here in case someone seeing your build likes the model and would like to build it. It's not my auction, I would be building it instead of selling it if it were mine. I don't know if the seller in a vendor or just some guy who thought the model looked cool in the hobby shop and paid the retail price only to realize it was more than he could handle and is now just trying to unload it and recoop some of his money back. This kit retails for like $900.00-$1000.00 in a hobby shop, but there's no way they would get any where near that selling it on ebay or after market.

 

But sorry to hijack your thread. Back to building

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That's OK, Michael, but I am not the one trying or wanting to buy the kit. I already have it.   :)

Yes you do. And I am really enjoying following your build. Excellent work....

 

Michael

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Nice choice for a build! I was wondering where you found it?? I am interested in French designed vessels but know nothing of where to find good kits. Presently working a Xebec and dare not to show photos as of yet since this is my first build I believe I will finish.

 

Best wishes on your new journey!

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They have the Royal Louis kit on Ebay right now for $490.00 + $25.00 shipping. I'm sooooo tempted. But I have built a few Mamoli kits in the past and their quality seemed a bit lacking.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271478783703?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

 

Ulises,

 

I'm known to be skeptical (seller claims new), this price is probably even below mainstream vendors cost IMO. "If its too good to be true"....The seller does have an excellent history however. Certainly a beautiful ship. As some say its a crap shoot. Again I'm a very doubtful type.

 

Michael

 

 

Nice choice for a build! I was wondering where you found it?? I am interested in French designed vessels but know nothing of where to find good kits. Presently working a Xebec and dare not to show photos as of yet since this is my first build I believe I will finish.

 

Best wishes on your new journey!

I have to say that if I'm building this ship it's because I had the opportunity to buy it really cheap. I paid $450 USD at Model Expo in May 2010. 

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Update June 25 2014

 

I used balsa blocks to fill empty spaces. This is the first time I attempt something like this.

I know it's not the cleanest of the jobs, but I think it will serve its purpose

 

 

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I had to modify the slots where the cannon frames go. They were not aligned properly.

This is a job that has consumed a lot of my time because I know it's a very critical step.

 

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Here I am dry fitting the cannon frames to check that their height is correct so the carriages/cannons assemblies are properly aligned and that the cannons can fit through the openings. A lot of extra trimming/refilling had to be done here.

 

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post-975-0-41779300-1403704997_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Hi Ulisis, that is taking shape nicely - these hidden fillers don't have to be neat just serve a purpose; the shaping is the more important.  You are probably aware (but just in case) that balsa is very porous and as a gluing surface for planking can be problematic.  The solution I was made aware of (I use balsa fillers also) is to coat the balsa with a diluted PVA / water solution to seal it but retain a good adhesive surface - I used 50/50 but this may not be the optimum.

 

cheers

 

Pat

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Great start - as I recall the gunport frames were a real pain.My biggest problem was getting them filed down to the contour of the frames.

 

/Mark

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(Hmmmm I could swear I had posted this before!)

 

Thank you all for your comment. Really appreciate it.

 

Pat: Thanks for the tip. Will take it into account. I hadn't think of that.

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Arthur: Yes...the lugs are a bit offset from the center of the frame.I try to put them all in the position where the frame is higher to get a better clearance for the guns. I am aware that they will not interfere with the laying of the upper decks afterwards.

 

And also yes...I will have to carve a few holes there, but being balsa I don't see it as a major problem.

 

Good observations Arthur.Thank you for your comments. :)

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Update July 1st.

I finished gluing the metal cannon frames for both sides of the upper deck, and those of the starboard side of the two lower decks. They are different in shape. They seem to follow a reasonable smooth line across the hull, except at the point of the frame number 9 from right to left where it seems to be a slight jump. Hope this will not be too noticeable once the hull is planked, as it's supposed to follow a smooth curve following the wales.

This is new stuff for me. It's taking me much time.First I had a really hard time trying to understand what the instructions were trying to say. After several tries, the light shone upon me and finally managed to decipher what they meant. :)

 

(Some further alignment is still possible)

 

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Testing for proper height against a gun carriage

 

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Edited by Ulises Victoria

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The metal gunports have a bracket at the back with a hole in the middle which you attach the dummy cannons to.

 

The stern most gunport on the lower gundeck does look a bit too low i think.

 

Did you run a couple of timber strips along the length? I actually didn't use the tab system and instead glue the top strip along the length, then glued the gunport to the bulkhead and then put on a wood strip along the length of the ship to touch the bottom of the gunports, then attached a vertical strip on the side opposite to the bulkhead. It seems sturdy enough and i found it easier than lining up the tabs.

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WOW, you are right, that is quite a jump up from #9. Have you tried to temp lay a couple of planks and see how it was going to run? Mamoli Constitution uses these same metal gun ports. Trying to align them using the tabs was such a pain in the ____ I just decided to break off the tabs and then align and glue the gun ports myself and it turned out beautifly. But with all those gun ports, I can't see that being an option for you. But it looks like a good 1/8th inch jump up.

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Well... thank you guys. Appreciate your comments. So some say that sternmost port is too low but didn't see the jump at 9th frame, which other saw.

:huh:  :huh:  :huh:

Well this is a work in progress, and much to be done yet.

 

In any case, this may be another possibility: Since I'm planning not to leave all and every gunport open, but leave them randomly open, closed semiopen...(sorry I don't remember whos I took this idea from, which made look his ship much more realistic) it may be possible to "fake" an unaligned gunport with an aligned closed door. I think I'm going to study this other possibility. It will have an effect on the way second planking will be laid.

 

Thanks again for visiting and your comments. :)

Edited by Ulises Victoria

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Many an alteration has hidded a mistake.  Been there as well.  Long before I joined a club I did a model of a Thames barge,  not my greatest piece of work.  All I remember was the bottom of the hull looked pretty bad.  So I made a diorama and made it a waterline model.

David B

Edited by dgbot

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Gunports redux.

 

Okay. I decided to re-do the upper gun ports using a strip of plank. They are now more precisely aligned with the deck above. Not perfect, but seems like perfection is still beyond my capabilities :rolleyes: 

 

So now I made the ultra-super-high-tech jig you see below to measure the distance between high and low frames, and will start re-aligning them tomorrow, once the glue is dry.

 

These frames are obviously a bit too low.

post-975-0-96246500-1404394489_thumb.jpg

 

After some work, they lay now parallel to the temporary plank. Inclination is easily fixed.

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Jig

 

post-975-0-37166200-1404394710_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

Cheers.

 

 

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Update July 4. Happy 4th of July to you USA citizens!!!

 

I modified the placement of many of the gun-ports. Not all of them, mind you. I think they look better now! :)

 

The first planking will be laid so that the frames protrude and then they have to be filed/sanded down to level with the planking, so a lot can be corrected before that in terms of inclination, etc. Micro alignment is still possible without having to remove and re-install the frames, thanks to the flexibility of the soft metal lugs.

 

As usual, comments will be very welcome.

 

Cheers!

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Edited by Ulises Victoria

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