Jump to content

Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French Vessel- 126 cannons- Started in April 10 2014

Recommended Posts

Thank you all who commented and gave advise.

I pre bent the beams as advised.The stanchions relieved a bit of the tension anyway.

The beams are more even in person than in the photos, believe me.

The metal window needed some sanding down especially at the edges.I over did it a bit in the middle, but no big deal. The gap between the window frame and the beam looks bigger because the frame is curved, not flat. This will go totally unnoticed once the false deck (shown already marked with 17mm lines to line up the planking) is nailed and glued over the beams.


Really appreciate your input, my friends.







Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ulises,


Great build, it looks great.  If you want to look at the Minwax Aged Oak that David B mentioned take a look at my Oseberg log (post # 162).


I definitely agree with Mark and would pre bend the beams to unload the bulkhead tops.  


Thanks for sharing.

Thanks Jack. That Aged Oak looks great on your hull, however, that's not the look I'm looking for in my decks. I want something more like a grayish-worn-aged wood. I have to keep looking. So far that Weather-It stuff is more closely to what I want.

I thank you for your input and your kind words! 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice work Ulises and great discussion on the various issues you have encountered and the remedies applied.  Have you thought about installing any LEDs to highlight those windows? 





Thank you Pat.

Actually no. Seems like electronic stuff is still out of my league! :) But may be in the future!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Arthur: The stanchions are cut to fit. No way to use the top of the window frame as a guide as it was way too high originally. I had to sand it down to match the camber. Dang. I'm going to have to lower those beams.  :(


Edit: I decided against redoing those beams. I tried to pry one of the stanchions and it was so well glued that I was afraid it would tear out the planking. So I just sanded down the tops of the beams to reduce just a bit of the camber.That will have to do!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Update August 16


Planking of the upper rear deck at various stages.

Gluing of a piece of wood that is going to shape the stern galleries.

Next step: GULP!!  Hull first planking!!! 

I'm under the impression this is going to be a real challenge!!!


Wish me luck!


Thanks for visiting.












This is how far the planking will go until now. The remaining will be planked once the first hull planking is finished, the bulwarks built, and the tip of the bulkheads removed and planked over.









Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Update Sept 12 2014

On Tuesday 9th started with the first planking. You will see not much progress in 4 days, but this has been a real challenge for me. I definitely don't like this system of the metallic gun port frames. It makes things harder instead of easier, *in my opinion*. You are forced to plank the hull in segments between frames, and it's harder to do an even planking job. I prefer the method of "cut your own".

Anyway, I thought before starting that this was going to be a nice challenge, and I wasn't wrong. However, if I manage to do it right, the sense of accomplishment will be equally big. :)


I keep telling myself that first planking is some sort of "training field", so things are easily patched and fixed.


Thanks for visiting.









Link to post
Share on other sites



You have to help me with this....

The first plank goes under the metal gun ports.....

The second one above , you have to glue that against the lower one......because there is no other support.

Then you are working to the top...

But when I see it right, you have to cut the final plank that goes between the gun ports....

That one has to be glued to the 2 planks in between.....

That's gonna be precise working then......



Link to post
Share on other sites


I just don't understand the instructions, so I'm working just following my gut. I had to tear apart a few planks of my first attempt.

In my second try, I placed the plank that goes over the frames (painted red), then the one that goes under, and then 6 frames that go in-between those, which you can see in the second photo and are unpainted. Then I started cutting pieces of wood to the precise length to fit between frames. A snug fit to make the frames more stable, and glued side to side of the bottom plank . The metal frames will have to be sanded/filed down later to make them flush with the first planking. The problem I am seeing now is that the vertical distance between the top and bottom planks is not exactly the width of 2 of the planks, so a gap is going to happen between the upper plank and the next. I foresee a lot of wood filler to be used here. (sigh) 

I hope this makes sense!!!


Thanks for your comment.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nigel. Indeed. What you say about the vertical planks is something mentioned in the instructions. I did not do it because I felt the frames were epoxied and very firmly placed that I though there was no need to reinforce them, BUT... you are quite right regarding the support for the in-between planks. I may not be too late to start doing that.

Thanks for your comment.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Ulises,


And thanks Nigel.


I understand all of it.

And I must say...I love the idea what Nigel is telling you.

So let me see the final result  :D  :D



Thanks Sjors. I just placed the vertical supports behind the planks I already have. Photos to follow pro'lly tomorrow.


One of the things you might try is filling in around the ports.  Using balsa or another soft wood as a filler.  I might take awhile but would probably be worth it down road.

David B

Thanks David. My problem will be to fill the gap that certainly will be between the top and next plank. I'll post some photos later.


Hello Ulises


If I remember right I think I first filed the metal frames down to the level of the bulkheads - then laid the planking on top of the edges of the metal frames. It seemed easier to me to "fair" the metal frames first.



Thank you Mark. I think I will have more trouble with your approach. It may be more work, but I think that filing the metal frames after the first planking is laid, will allow me for a smoother finish.


I sincerely thank all and every response.


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK Some photos of the fix suggested by Sjors and Nigel above. Thank you guys!!!


You can see some of the small vertical planks I added as suggested. (This wood splinters so bad.)





Also, here is a photo of a plank I just place momentarily there for the purpose of showing the other problem I mentioned before: the gap that is going to be between the top and the next plank. I'm thinking to fill with with planks put sideways.



Link to post
Share on other sites



Maybe there is something else what you can try....

Instead of a very small piece at the top, you can cut two planks the size you need to get to the top.

So bottom plank has his own size, two next a little smaller.

There is a next planking goes over it ?

Then they hide the two smaller planks.

But you are on the right track!



Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Create New...