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Schooner Ingomar by Omega1234 - FINISHED - 1/278 - Hereshoff designed

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Hi all. Recently, after finishing my miniature model of "Dorade" I started on my new model, a 1/192 scale model of the 54m long schooner "Ingomar". Built in 1903 and designed by Nathaniel Herreshoff, Ingomar was one of the fastest and most successful racing schooners of its day. Such is the beauty of this boat, that it has been recreated now by Graafships; the only problem being that the person funding the project, unfortunately ran out of money and only the hull has been built. The hull is currently for sale. Hopefully someone rich enough will buy the hull and complete the project; thereby creating a modern full size version of this beautiful ship. Any rich people out there?


Anyhow, back to my model! Given the small size of the hull (13 cms approx), I agonised about what sort of material the hull should be built from. Whatever I chose had to be structurally strong enough to be cut into small enough strips to simulate the frames, etc. Also, the fact that the full sized ship was steel framed, basically meant that I couldn't use wood. Much to my distaste, I reluctantly settled on plasticard to build the keel and hull! I've always shied away from plasticard, but this time, it was the only logical choice. I will paint the hull's frames and keel later to make it look like it authentic.


The hull will be built with as much of the internal accommodation as possible installed in the hull and visible through large cutaways of the hull and exposed deck beams.


I hope you enjoy the photos. More photos will follow as work progresses.









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Happy Easter everyone!!!! I hope all of you that celebrate Easter have a wonderful festive season. To everyone else, have a great day, too.


Here are the latest photos of Ingomar. I've used platicard strips to simulate the frames, which, as you can see, look reasonably convincing. Once the side of the hull is completely "framed" using this method, I'll then set about selectively framing up the other side of the hull, whilst leaving large parts of that side of the hull unframed; thereby resulting in large open areas to view the internal accommodation. The trick is to make sure that the hull remains structurally rigid once it is removed from the jig. Afterall, leaving too much open on one side of the hull could result in a warped hull. So, it's always a balancing act, but the rewards are worthwhile.


Anyhow, hope you enjoy the photos. Comments and feedback are always welcomed.










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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone


Well, tonight I finished building the bent frames! It's a tedious job, but the effect is worth it in the end. At least now, Ingomar's hull finally looks like it's taking shape.


What's even more important is the fact that I was able to remove the hull from the building jig and build a working stand for her to sit upright in. The hull looks a bit rough around the sheer line, but that's only because it requires trimmimg, sanding etc.


The next job will be to do the planking and then cut out the sides of the hull so that the interior accommodation can be viewed. Long way to go, no doubt.


I hope you enjoy the photos.






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Thanks Michael. Yep. It's tiny. To be honest, I've spent more time building large RC ships over the years, that my house has ran out of room. I've really had to down size to a smaller scale (hence building miniatures), just to be able to fit them in. Not only that, but I always think that there's a particular satisfaction that building at this scale brings.


Thanks for your compliments and all the best.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all


Just finished plating the starboard side of the hull. The port side is only partially plated (ie only plated at the bow and stern) because the frames inbetween the bow and stern will be cutaway so that the internal accommodation can be viewed. Hope this makes sense. If not, then it will all start to make sense as progress continues!


Needless to say, also, the hull requires fair bit of fairing and sanding to get it perfectly smooth. Once done, then the hull will eventually be painted.


Hope you enjoy the photos.









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Sorry to be late to this log, but I'll add my kudos to the others. I think it's particularly difficult to recreate the lines around the stern which are so fine, and at a scale of 1:192 is even more remarkable.


You mentioned earlier that the completion of the full sized boat would require a lot of money, which is certainly true, but then to sail it would require a pretty good sized crew as well. Any volunteers?



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Hi Tom


Many thanks and yep, you're right...the stern is always the bit I find hardest to capture perfectly.  There's something about the complexity of modelling the sterns of ships that makes it so much more challenging.


Like you, I'd also love to see the full sized replica get completed.  That'd definitely be something to see and enjoy.


All the best.

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Thanks Elmer Cornish and everyone else!


Here are some of the latest photos. The first few show the hull with the deck template and the side of the hull being prepared for opening up, so that the internal accommodation can be eventually viewed. The rest of the photos show the hull after the frames have been cutaway. Luckily the hull is structurally strong enough to withstand the hull's side being cut open in such a way. Not for the faint hearted, because, once it's cut, there's no turning back!


Anyhow, enjoy the photos.









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Hi David


Many thanks. To be honest, I'm not a great fan of working with the plastic. It may be easy to bend, but because it's so thin, I'm finding that too much super glue, strangely enough, can sometimes make it brittle and prone to cracking!!! Needless to say, I need to be extra careful not to overdo the super glue, other wise, I'm in trouble. At least once the hull's done, I'll be back to using wood for the deck and internal work.  Can't wait, because I love working with wood. It has more 'soul'.



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Thanks for the tip David.  I'll definitely need to get some Holly next time.  One of the reasons I reluctantly resorted to using the plastic was because I wanted to simulate a metal hulled and framed hull and hence felt that, at this scale, wood would still be too hard to pass off convincingly for metal.  Maybe, you're right; I should've stuck to wood, because, after all, that's where my comfort zone lies  Oh well.  Gotta think positively..

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