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Niagara 1813 by JustBlowinInTheWind - Model Shipways - 1:64 - First build


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Welcome back. I'm no ship expert, but I did not put any coating over my paint. But then, I didn't put anything on the deck, either. Not sure why it's needed as the deck is supposed to be dead flat (finish wise). I airbrushed the hull, so I only put on one coat of paint. It covered very well. I used the ME paint.

 

As for the waterline, it actually is on the print. Page 3, bottom hull profile. Look below the forward channels. I taped a pencil to a scrap block of wood to mark mine.

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I found it, thanks. I'm blaming the tri-foculs. Plane as day. I'll probably do the same with the block of wood and pencil, because I like tools, so I bought ME's fancy water line drawer thing-a-ma-bob. Which is a POS like their fair-a-frame. It's good to BE back. I love this site!

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I bought the paint kit that belongs to this model from model-expo. It was supposed to come with 11 bottles, but I have nine. I have no blue's. When I look back at their site at the colors that belong in the kit, I see there are no blue's listed. (Where BB King and Eric Clapton when you need them?) Anyone know what MS numbers are required for this ship?

 

Example, Yellow Ochre (yuck) is MS4829. What do I need to order for this ships hull?

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Here is what came in my set:

 

2 ea MS4801 bulwarks dark green

2 ea MS4830 hull spar black

2 ea MS4839 primer

1 ea MS4828 iron cannon black

1 ea MS4829 yellow ochre

1 ea MS4831 white

1 ea MS4821 house light buff

1 ea MS4802 bulwarks gun red

 

There are no blues in the set, nor are any listed as belonging there.

 

I didn't use the red because it looked too orange & the buff just isn't right. I have knowledge of the green since I have never seen a photo of the lower hull. I did use the ochre, green, light buff & blacks, but only three colors are really useful, the green, buff & ochre.

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Yes, black above the waterline.

 

You know, I painted mine bass-ackwards. I painted the upper part & lower part first. Then I painted the waterline. Waterline should have been done first. That being said, I used blue painters tape for the upper/lower hull & tamiya tape for when I did the waterline.

 

Glad my pictures were helpful. I was hoping someone would get some benefit from them

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I primed and spray painted a piece of waste from around the lazer cut parts and applied electronics tape. Didn't pull any paint off so that's what I'm using. I've used electronics tape on plastic models for some 45 years, so I'm very comfortable with it.

 

However, I'm getting little chips in my paint on the hull... This was my first air gun experience, but it all seemed to go well. Took 4 coats, and I sanded with 600 grit between coats. SO... I think I do want to put something over the paint of the hull. Any ideas? I'll leave the deck as is, unless someone expresses a concern that the wood may warp or something at a later date.

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  • 2 weeks later...

How does one mount the ship when drawing the water line? If I mount it on the stand as show, the stand rocks just a tiny bit and doesn't make for a straight line. I can't imagine the ship is laid upside down, because the deck has a slight curve.

 

If the hull doesn't look good, try cleaning your monitor :rolleyes:

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Edited by JustBlowinInTheWind
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I'm really not liking this air-brush stuff. Too thick, clean the brush, too thin, it doesn't cover. Beats the heck outta a brush though. Yet I am going to the hobby shop tomorrow to see what they have for a better brush.

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Tell me more about dual action if you would please. The viscosity is what I'm having trouble with. There seems to be no real ratio since all paints are different. I have model-expo's paint for this model specifically. The black applies perfectly. The green is killing me. Sorry for any typos, I can;t find my glasses:(

 

Thanks Tim. That's my son's name.

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Thanks Laxet. At the rate I'm going it;s going to take 5 coats or more. Is that normal? I'm adding only a couple drops at a time. It's either clog the brush, or barely cover. I'll upload some pics tomorrow to show what I mean. The black went on beautifully in only 3 coats.

Edited by JustBlowinInTheWind
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No, not normal. What are you thinning with? I thought I thinned mine with alcohol, but when I thinned my tan with alcohol it turned to sludge. I would test it first, but the rule of thumb for airbrushes is thin to the consistency of 2% milk. If you drag a stick with paint up the side of the jar, you should not quite be able to see through it. I generally shoot at between 10 & 20 psi. I don't know what brand airbrush you are using, but any name brand single action should be good. Maybe you should completely disassemble it & clean the snot out of it.

Edited by Laxet
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I understood water should be used for acrylic. I just happen to have some 2% milk. (lactose free) I'll do some more experimenting. I had a 2x4 I tried it on and it seemed okay. Any chance the primer has an effect? It's the primer that came with the rest of the kit of pain we both got from model-expo.

 

Trust me, I take that brush apart every time I use it. Even between coats. I just don't understand why the black went on so well, and not the green.

 

Brush is a badger 150. No idea what the PSI is. It's a kit I got from my mother for my birthday. Only gift I ever got that didn't come with a belt:

Edited by JustBlowinInTheWind
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The Badger should be fine. I did not use any primer. Distilled water for thinning is good. I have always used rubbing alcohol without problem until the ME buff.

 

Just make sure the needle is pulling back far as you pull the trigger back. With a large area, I often pull the needle back from the nozzle with the trigger all the way forward & tighten the nut there.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Brian the Badger brand single action airbrush should be fine. I used one for years on my plastic models. The Badger comes with 3 interchangeable heads, fine., medium, and heavy. The fine head is for paint with a very fine pigment - like the original Floquil paints.  The medium and heavy heads are for the thicker pigmented paints. I would classify ME paint as THICK or HEAVY. I've used it with a [paint] brush and have had to water it down to the consistency of weak tea to get the brush control I wanted. (BTW ME paint is NOT my preferred paint brand).

 

Check your airbrush and see what tip it has. You should be able to buy the extra heads at any good art supply store (not Michaels). I used to interchange mine depending on the paint I was using at the time.

 

Of the top of my head I don't remember the thinning ratios - it has been too long now. But it has to be very thin, maybe even the consistency of 1% or even skim milk.

 

I do remember they are "tricky" to use but once you get the hang of it they work really well and do a nice job of coverage.

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We live in central california. Pretty much a desert. We have 2 seasons. Brown and browner. Dust is a HUGE problem for me. Worse is the pile of hair that comes from the problem dog. I'm thinking about pouring contact cement all over the floor and letting her make carpet.

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2 and 4 coats respectively. The problems I mentioned. I sanded it back down again and played with the viscosity on a 2x4" 'till I was happy. There is also an adjustment at the back of the badger that controls how far the needle is pulled back. That needed adjustment as well. The finished product is 3 coats. I sprayed a satin lacquer over the paint because I was having problems with my finger nails gouging the paint if an end of the tape stuck to the hull and I had to pick at it to get it loose to pull off. 

 

Also I will NOT use vinyl tape ever again. It leaves a residue of adhesive behind. That came off with mineral spirits.

 

I'm re-finishing the inside (bulwarks?) for the gun ports and sweeps. I had painted it black according to another build I follow. (Done now) I like the green better. Simply more colourful. I also hated the yellow I used, so I added some white to the yellow ochre (Cowardly ogre) and am repainting that. REAL shame, because I had pre-painted the planks and 1/32" square end pcs, and I thought for a beginner it looked pretty good. I used a yellow enamel from testors. Now I'll have to tape it off to paint the gun ports and sweeps and that'll never look good.

 

What's most bothersome is that I never did intend to spend the time making this as well as I can. Which is evidently not very) My intent was simply to learn. I do NOT want to keep going back over things like paint colors and perfecting straight edges of painted parts.

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