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Are those electric plank benders worth it?


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I think there are mixed feelings.  Some use them and like them, others not so much. 

 

When necessary, I use a plank bender that cuts a small notch on the inside of the plank to promote a clean bend.  it looks like pliers but has a triangular ridge, but does not have a very a sharp edge.  Of course you have to be careful not cut the plank into pieces.  It is a very gentle pressure that creates and indentation in the wood.  I only use it when wet bending does not get what I need or if I need small corrections to an existing bend.

 

For wet bending, I tend not to use heat if I can avoid it.  I build a bending jig that matches the curve I am looking for.  With clamps, I slowly bend the plank to fit the shape then let it dry.  It worked well for the bends and did a good job on the cap rail of the stern transom which is a right angle bend. 

 

We all have preferences for tools and methods that work for us.  My philosophy is to try it and if it doesn't fit my style, sell it on E-bay.

 

Richard

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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I have been using my electric plank bender for over 20 years and would be lost without it.  I did buy a solid state soldering iron control unit to be able to adjust the temperature.  Over time i have accumulated a number of forms I use to control the shape and I have also managed to burn myself a number of times.  

 

Not only do I use it for bending, it is quite useful as an aid for setting the PVA glue quicker. For example, when planking, I will use soak the plank and use the bender and forms to approximate the shape I want.  I then coat the back of the plank with PVA as well as place some drops of CA on the frames or bulkheads where the plank will reside. Using the CA eliminates needing clamps or nails to hold it in place.  Once the plank is in place I then run the bender over it to heat up the plank and speed up the drying of the PVA and getting a good seam with the plank already in place.  Using that method there is no wait time between applying planks and if done carefully, it helps to eliminate a lot of the bulges and dips that seem to occur between planks.

PROWE

 

If someone says something can't be done, it only means they can't do it.

 

Building:Shipyard - HMS Mercury card madel

 

Completed Builds:

Wood Models; AL Bluenose II 1989, Corel Toulonnaise 1995, Corel Flying Fish 2000, AL Scottish Maid 2005,

Sergal President 2010, Mamoli Beagle 2011, Corel Eagle 2013, Mamoli Constitution Cross-section 2014, Victory Cross-section 1/98 by Corel 2015, Occre San Francisco Cable Car 2018, Model Shipways Armed Long Boat 2021

Card Models

Christmas Train by PaperReplika 2012, Yamaha DSC11 Motorcycle 2013, Canon EOS 5D Mark II 2014, WWII Tiger I Tank by Paper-Replika 2014, Wrebbit Mercedes-Benz 500K Roadster 2014, Central Pacific no. 60 Jupiter card model 2015, Mirage III 1/30 converted to 1/33 card model 2017, TKpapercraft 1912 Mercer 2021

 

 
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I use a discarded curling iron that the Admiral no longer needed.  I clamp it into a vise and freehand, can do many complex shapes.. a few are even repeatable. :)

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Hi,

Sometimes it helps to soak the wood in ammonia.
It is not pleasant but the end justifies the means.

 

Tadeusz

 

My models:

From kits

Vasa, HMS Victory, Le Solei Royale, Friesland

From scratch

HMS Warrior 1860, Esplanade, Grosse Yacht

Norman’s ship, HMS Speedy, La Royale

Peter von Danzig

Polacca XVII cent.

Current project:

SS Savannah 1818

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I have always found a steam iron (after soaking the planks) to be a very successful way of bending planks. Probably best not to use the Admiral's good iron though! These days I use a miniature travel steam iron - it works a treat.

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I thought I would never need one then I needed to bend some 2x2mm strips of walnut. I tried every method and finally had to buy the plank bender. Worked like a charm, I bought it off eBay for $20.

Casey

 

"I drank what?" - Socrates

 

Current Builds:  

                                  

Finished Builds: 

 

Future Builds:        

  • Mamoli Golden Hind
  • Mamoli Black Prince
  • AL Swift
     

 

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I also use the hair curling thing. I have that electric plank bender also but prefer the hair curler.

post-975-0-63240200-1404000565_thumb.jpg

post-975-0-81944400-1404000577_thumb.jpg

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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I've used an electric plank bender for years. I don't know how anyone can NOT bend wood with it. I soak the plank a little, then use the plank bender and it heats the water in the wood to steam. And it does allow you to ben the wood in more than one direction and easily twist the wood too. I don't remember ever getting burned and never understood why anyone had problems with it.

 

Clare

Clare Hess

He's a -> "HE"

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It is like any other tool. It is a matter of preference as to how one does any task. If it works for you, then it is a good tool. If not, then it is not for you. Any tool is only as good as it is useful to the craftsman. I have been bending planks for 40 years and have done it many ways. The electric plank bender in my opinion is the most efficient for me. You have to use it properly and treat the wood before bending, but you can make complex bends and twists as well.

 

Vince P.

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I have been using this electric plank bender for many years. It was made by Aeropiccola. It is basically a 50 watt soldering iron with a head shaped like a comma & an adjustable clamp so you can make the bend as tight as you need to.

 

post-4600-0-66055900-1404016041_thumb.jpg

 

/Mark

 

 

current build - HMS Vanguard - Model Shipways

 

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I'm convinced that dry heat is best for bending planks and if you don't mind spending the money for an electric plank bender you won't regret it for convenience and effectiveness.  I've been using the Aeropiccola bender that Mark showed for 29 years and it's still serving me well.  I'd echo AVS Jerome's comment--don't grab it anywhere but on the handle!

Tom

 

 

Current: Sergal Sovereign of the Seas

Previous builds:  AL Swift, AL King of the Mississippi, Mamoli Roter Lowe, Amati Chinese Junk, Caesar, Mamoli USS Constitution, Mantua HMS Victory, Panart San Felipe, Mantua Sergal Soleil Royal

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I too have been using the same bending iron as Mark and have had it for a very long time. I use it along side all of the other methods listed here. It really depends on what I am trying to do. You can get a very smooth bend in the wood using it and as bogeygolpher mentioned you can quickly get your planks attached to the hull without having to pin them. I also find it useful in setting something that it difficult to clamp. A small amount of CA and hit the strip with the iron.

 

It is not a perfect solution to everything. You can also overheat the wood, burn it, or burn the CA enough to keep it from adhering so it is certainly not a perfect one size fit's all solution. I have found alongside all the other methods, it is a good tool to have in the arsenal. Can you do without it, certainly, but you might find you do like using it.

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

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I too have been using the same bending iron as Mark and have had it for a very long time. I use it along side all of the other methods listed here. It really depends on what I am trying to do. You can get a very smooth bend in the wood using it and as bogeygolpher mentioned you can quickly get your planks attached to the hull without having to pin them. I also find it useful in setting something that it difficult to clamp. A small amount of CA and hit the strip with the iron.

 

It is not a perfect solution to everything. You can also overheat the wood, burn it, or burn the CA enough to keep it from adhering so it is certainly not a perfect one size fit's all solution. I have found alongside all the other methods, it is a good tool to have in the arsenal. Can you do without it, certainly, but you might find you do like using it.

Well, I learned something new! This is a great site. :) I have that plank bender too and use it for bending, but what I great idea for setting CA glue. I always have to hold the piece down and use a hairdryer to set the glue. Using the plank bender to apply pressure and heat is a great idea!

 

Thanks, Robnbill

 

Vince P. :piratetongueor4:

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