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Mike Y

Oliver Cromwell by Mike Y - 1:48, 1777, POF (Hahn style)

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Carl, it is more than big enough, at least for my little apartment. Will build a bigger once once I get a villa :D


Kurt, planing epoxy is quite easy. WestSystem epoxy that I use does not harden to rock-solid mass that plane will have problems with, it has a bit of elasticity, probably because it is designed for marine applications and it should not be brittle, and should handle temperature variations. 


Steve, Druxey - thanks!

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Final touches on the display case.

Installing the pear "skirts". They needs to be thinned down a bit, and they are too wide for my thickness planer. So I planed them manually. Was a bit too aggressive, and, whooops!



Argh! I do not have any spare wood, did not expected to break a simple flat sheet :)

Luckily, it broke quite clearly, and it was easy to glue it back together:



The crack is barely visible on the finished product.


Installing the skirts. They are glued with epoxy, to avoid any cupping / warping due to moisture. It was a breeze, epoxy is so much better for that kind of work!



Now I can fine fit all pieces together. A bit of planing:



And then a lot of sanding. I love sanding, it turns ugly into smooth and beautiful, hiding all mistakes :)



Now the part that made me nervous - cutting a hole for the LED control knob. There is only one chance to do it right, and no spare wood to cover mistakes.

So I scored the circle to reduce tearout (breaking the wood fibers that could be teared apart by the drill otherwise):



And then applied tonns of masking tape and started to drill, slooooooowly. The hole saw is adjusted to the precise diameter with a zip tie :D 



Few nervous minutes later - the hole looks pretty hole-ish! Phew, no screw-up.



After a bit of sanding magic:



And the final result: 



I'm a bit scared to pull all that plastic away, already got used to it :) 


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Thanks everybody! :)


Kurt, it is not explicitly vented, but the wall is not ideally flat and the wallpaper is textured, so there are enough gaps on the back side of the case for air to flow in and out. Not planning any extra air holes (gaps), they will let too much dust inside.


druxey, yes, a good forstner bit would make it easier and safer, but it is too expensive for a one-time operation. Also, could not find a bit of a right diameter (36mm), they are sold with pretty big diameter increments in that size range. Hole saw of this type could be squeezed with a ziptie to adjust the diameter +/- few mm.

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Phew, it's done!

The film removed, no scratches underneath it. 








No more display case photos, I promise! :) This log will finally get some model updates.


To summarise the experience from this case build:

1) Designing your own construction is fun and adds a lot of experience. It is difficult to estimate the proportions in SketchUp, I should have done some 1:1 mock-up with cardboard and sticks. If I do it again - I would make it flatter and lower.

2) Same for LEDs - test how the light hits the model. Both top and bottom strips are angled incorrectly (top one is hitting the wall, while bottom one is highlighting all the dust on the floor). Not a super big deal, but not as nice as I planned. 

3) Epoxy is a blessing, holding together tiny crossgrain-to-crossgrain joints well enough.

4) Be super pedantic about square angles, even a tiny misalignment sums up to a big skew on a long distance.

5) Pear wood is nice.

6) Sanding is magic!

7) The Admiral is a keeper for tolerating that "hamster hut" in our living room :D Though I secured my daughter's support by promising her that her model would also be in that case. 



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Very nice--great noted comments. I will be using pear wood for the first time. Lovely color - much to like with this wood.


PS: I was in your neighborhood a few weeks ago - ride back many hours of just white. Wonderful indeed.








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Michael, nice photos! Looks like you was there at a right time, when the sun is out :) 

Note that the pear wood colour changes a bit depending on a finish you use. I am now experimenting with some sanding sealers, to keep the wood in its original colour instead of a darker shade that different kinds of oil lead to. Will post the test results once it's done.

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Hey Mike,

On a piece of furniture that gorgeous you may want to consider this finish - classic French Polish using thin coats of shellac.  




Or even a simple wax finish would work well.  




I know many use sanding sealers on their models - but on furniture its not really considered a final finish its more of a sealer before applying a finish from my research.  

Edited by ChrisLBren

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Thanks everybody!


Chris, it is a Danish oil - pretty popular furniture finish. I tried tung oil, danish oil and osmo polyx - for this particular wood and application danish oil looked a bit better. Thanks for the advice, but french polish is a bit above my skill level at the moment, it requires quite a lot of time and effort to apply...

Sorry that I confused you, the sanding sealer experiments are for the model scale only, not for the furniture. 


Gaetan, the case is designed to open easily - the front glass panel is just pulled out by hand, it is held in place with magnets. There are some detailed photos showing it in this comment: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/7297-oliver-cromwell-by-mike-y-148-1777-pof-hahn-style/&do=findComment&comment=540399 

Just need to be careful when pulling the panel to avoid leaving fingerprints on the glass :) Apart from that - that part of the case design works as intended, opening / closing the case is easy. I start to love magnet mounts more and more, they are easy to make and are fully invisible. The only nuance is picking up the right magnet size/strength for the job. With this case, I started with magnets that were a tiny bit too weak, but it was easy to solve - I just added a pair of stronger magnets into each top corner, and now it is quite strong. At the same time, you do not need to use a lot of force when removing the front panel.




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Hello Mike


You did a great job of building your display case, just love that very light stain that you used as it sure did come out great. I built my display cases out of cherry wood that was stained and varnished a black cherry when it was given to me many years ago, so I must live with the darker wood.


Well, I finally got my kitchen cabinets painted with three coats of paint with 24 hours of drying time between coats along with a very light sanding and a lot of new trim to boot. Oh, I will paint the insides but that is no great deal a couple at a time. Got my garden tractor converted over from a snow blower to a lawn mower with a set of sharpened blades. Also got our front yard black walnut tree trimmed back and under control again as it was getting out of hand and also a bit of gardening work so the end is very much in sight.


I have been milling over my set of plans for the Oliver Cromwell and have decided to follow in your footsteps of gluing the framing segments to cardboard templates and cutting them by hand. Harold’s method could be much faster but much more compilated and very confusing, at least to me. I am hoping to start making some saw dust in around a week or so if all goes well. I ordered a masking and rigging plan from Chris Hahn for the HMS Druid so I may have to tweak them a bit to fit but that should be no great deal. Should have them this coming week.


Looking forward to your return to your ship yard work ant to see just what great surprises that you do have in store for your ship mates,                                                                                                                                                 ENJOY.


Regards   Lawrence

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Kees, Lawrence, thanks!


There is no stain, it is a natural colour of pear once it is oiled.

19 hours ago, canoe21 said:

I have been milling over my set of plans for the Oliver Cromwell and have decided to follow in your footsteps of gluing the framing segments to cardboard templates and cutting them by hand.

Hmm, not sure what you mean, there is no gluing involved. Just cut one set of framing segments, fine tweak them to make sure they match the drawing, and then use these as templates to transfer sizes and rough angles to the framing stock. No gluing required.

Then same templates are used to set a correct angle on the disk sander. Then you do not need to worry about precision when cutting the pieces on a bandsaw or a table saw. Just leave a margin of a millimiter or two, and finish it on a disk sander.

Sorry for the brief explanation, hope it makes sense. Please PM me otherwise.

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Finally back to the model building. To prepare, I need to make a set of Jorgensen-style clamps (also locally known as Tosti clamps on MSW for Ed, who popularised them in his Naiad build ;) ). I bought a pair in Lee Valley, but they are way too big for the modelling purposes. But I loved the way they work, and I quickly got used to them.


It is also my first time using tap & die (since that clamps require a mix of left-hand and right-hand threads) - I know the basic theory, but never had a need for cutting my own threads. So it was definitely a learning curve! More experienced man will chuckle reading that, so enjoy :) Bought a high quality tap&die tools from Völkel, famous Swiss manufacturer. So at least I am sure that my troubles are not because I was using a cheap chinesium tools. 


First drilling the holes in the round bushing. It went surprisingly ok with just a mill and a Proxxon metal cutting drill bit. I thought it would slip and bend, and was ready to pre-mill the flat surface first, but it was ok even without it:



Second is tapping:



And threading:



Threading was harder than expected, the force required is quite high, so it was not easy to find a way to clamp the brass rod without damaging the thread that is already cut on its other end. I followed the rule of rotating it back every now and then to break the chips. 

It also took forever! 


To my surprise, the result was not good, especially on the left hand side - the bushing was rotating properly on some part of the rod, but getting tight or even jammed on the other part of the rod. I could not find a problem with a bare eye, no particles and the thread was looking quite even. Few extra runs of the die back and forth improved the situation, but just a bit.


The next test rod I cut with a lubrication. That was easier, but lead to the same quality of the thread, and much more mess (also brass chips not falling out but getting stuck because of the oil).


It helped to clamp the rod into a screwdriver and make a few passes with the bushing instead of a die. That way the rod and the bushing kind of adapted to each other, I guess..

Few more passes - and I ended up with a thread that is too loose. Whoops!


Then I tried to use the screwdriver to cut the threads instead of manual cut. That was much better! 5af3580bf07cb_Foto2018-05-06183221.thumb.jpg.0d769c848f7426987355d57480a55901.jpg


So the next test rod was cut much faster and had a good fit from the start. Maybe a bit on a loose side, but I suspect it is because I was cutting too fast, and die and rod became too hot -> hence they expanded a bit -> and the thread ended up too loose because too much material was cut. But at least it worked!


Few more cuts on a mill - and the test version of the clamp is done:



It works, but needs some tweaking of proportions to look good. Once I am satisfied with its proportions - will start cutting the real clamps out of pear, lined with a super soft basswood on the inner surface, to avoid damaging the model parts.

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I’m no expert on this and I’m sure there are others who can provide more/better advice, but my experience to date in cutting threads with a die led me to learn that the die (at least good quality dies) have an adjustment screw that sets the “depth” of cut. Basically, it forces the cutting jaws apart. If you start with the cutting jaws as open as possible, and take a light threading cut first, it will be much easier/faster. Then adjust the “depth” of cut and go over it again. Repeat until you have a thread running “just right”.


Hope this helps.

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Grant, thanks for the info! Google says that it is a special die design, the ones that have a split and an adjustment screw. Like this:



And here is my die, no split:



So it is probably more related to the feeding speed (and, hence, temperature). Will try to feed slower and see how it goes.

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The rod diameter is 3mm, bushing has a 2.5mm hole. 

Both tap and die are the M3 size, DIN 223 standard. 

The rods are from the same batch, but I will doublecheck their diameters carefully. Everything is possible! :) 

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