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Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale (POF)


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Thanks for all the likes and concerns for Judy, it will take a while but I'm confident all will work out well.

 

Been a long week, but it is snowing and the roads are bad so since I had to stay home today I did manage to work a little on the hinges, picking up where I left off on Tuesday. Feels like I'm using up way too many electrons to show 32 holes in a few bits of brass. But here goes.

 

The hinges were clamped and cut to size using the vice as a guide for the saw blade.

 

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I made a simple clamping jig so that I could drill all the holes with just 2 positions of the table. first I milled a relief slot with a 1/16th end mill in some hard aluminum scrap and clamped this in such a way as to give me the ability to use the small toolmakers clamps on the hinges.

 

The hinges were then drilled first in the bottom left and rotated so that the top right was next.The drill diameter was .032"

 

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This shows the clamp to drill the top left which when rotated becomes the bottom right.... Are you confused yet? also the home made precountersink

 

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All drilled the drill in the picture was used between my fingers in a twirling motion to set a bit of a countersink for the 1/32 flat head rivets which will represent the screws and hold everything together.

 

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Now I just have to sort out the sequence for attaching them.

 

Michael

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Thanks everyone.

Druxey I had not thought of burs probably because they really have not been part of my modelwork tool chest agency. I shall have to look into what is available from the jewelers tool shop in Edmonton when I have a few pennies to spare. I do have a Dremel with a flex shaft, but mostly it never occurs to me to use it. Perhaps I should do a bit of out of the box thinking and plug it in occasionally.

 

PS it is still snowing traffic is evidently rather snarly in Edmonton till this system passes.

 

Michael

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Again Thanks for all the positive support and likes.

 

I mounted the hinges today first on the ridge.  small awl first made a location for the drill and then drilled with the #68 drill mounted in a pin chuck to drill the holes then one of the rivets pushed home.

 

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Once all the hinges were mounted I used tiny drops of thicker ACC glue Gorilla brand to temporarily hold the hinges onto the lights I will wait till the morning before opening them to add the rivets to them once they have set.

 

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The blue tape is just to hold them overnight from sliding until the glue completely hardens.

 

Michael

 

 

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again,  your metal work astounds me.......hinges look really neat!   skylight is looking great!  ;)   didn't know Judy was in the Hospital........so sorry to hear.  I hope she is doing better and on the road to recovery.

 

snow.........oh, the word be deaf to thy ears.........we haven't seen it yet.

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Thanks for all the positive comments and likes they are really appreciated.

I just got home from the Hospital, Judy is improving.

This morning i had a little time before heading into Edmonton to work on the skylight. I created a crude jig on a sheet of paper with a couple of blocks stuck down with some masking tape. This was to enable working on the light while temporarily attached with the glue. 

 

When the lights were opened up one of the temporary glue joints let go so I started the hole drilling with the hinge that was still glued to ensure that the position of the light remained fixed relative to the ridge and central divider between the lights.

 

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Because of the set up angle I was able to drill the holes for the rivets in the lights.

 

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The rivets were pressed in and then glued with some thin Acc glue

 

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After completing the lights on the first side I set it up to see how they looked......not good they did not sit down fully

 

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This was one of those moments that had intuitively crossed my mind earlier when making the slots for the hinges in the top ridge. one of the thoughts was to set the hinges into the ridge the full depth of the folded hinge to eliminate the hassle of getting the notches perfect on the lights. It also allowed the lights to seat up fully well almost fully to the ridge.

 

The thing that I had completely failed to really understand was the minute amount of the rivet heads was enough to prevent the hinges from fully closing....what to do?  the hinges were set with pins and glued. I decided to deal with this later and made a change with the second side. The change involved setting up the lights so that the hinges could be mounted so that from the top when the light were closed thee looked clean, but that they would be slightly open underneath to allow for the heads.

 

The second side was drilled as the first side and the countersinks were made just a little larger then the hinges were unglued with a number 11 blade after marking their positions.

 

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Then using the jewelers saw I cut them back at an angle from the topside to the bottom side.

 

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then using the #11 I removed the slight wedge and cleaned it up with a needle file.

 

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The next pic shows the one on the right has been modified and the one on the left is next to be done.

 

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After fitting the first one and testing it to see if my fix would work I was satisfied that it would.

 

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Then completed the second one, all that remains is to un-glue the well glued ones that I did first. the next pic shows the lights seated down fully on the second set.

 

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Moral of the story... do a test first! but then you all knew that didn't you ;)

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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It all turned out beautiful in the end. 

 

 

 

Moral of the story... do a test first! but then you all knew that didn't you

 

Oh yes and "measure twice, cut once"  and all the other hard earned lessons we all learned over the years. Still I tend to forget them very quickly and I don't know why. Maybe a shipwright is stubborn, luckily I'm very skilled at redo's ;-)

 

Remco

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Sorry to hear about Judy, but good to hear she's improving, give her my best wishes. Take care driving though!!!

 

I'm enjoying the build of that skylight tremendously!!! It does look stunning ... the nice thing about an 'end product', people can't see those oops moments, they just see that marvelous build ...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks everyone for your well wishes for Judy. All is well now.

I have to hunt through my scraps of thin lexan for the "glass" in the skylights, I did have some 1/16th cell-cast acrylic that was left over from some architectural models. The interesting thing about cell-cast is because of the nature of the manufacture it is not super consistently even as far as thickness goes varying about 25 thousands over the sheet in random ways. we used to call it thick or thin whatever the main denomination was. 

The reason I used the cell cast is because It cut much more cleanly without gumming or fracturing the way the extruded acrylic did.

 

So I need to find a bit of thin 1/16th failing that I will buy some new 1.5mm lexan

 

Michael

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Hi Michael

 

Pleased to hear your good lady is on the mend and will be home for Christmas.

 

I'm don't know what lexon is but for for my windows I use a CD case.

 

I make the windows with a front and back which are identical then make a ply piece which will go between these two which is cut out slightly larger than the window apertures and left open at the top, this allows for the clear plastic to be slid down between the inner and outer sheet. One big advantage of this particularly on wheelhouses is that the whole thing can be painted or stained without getting it on the plastic, it also rules out having to glue them in and avoids the risk of fogging.

 

To both of you and anyone else who reads this Rosemary and I wish you all a very happy Christmas and a fantastic New Year..............Happy building and sailing in 2016.

 

Mike.

 

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