Virginia 1819 by cmann - FINISHED - Artesania Latina

[Grimber]

What i've found, so far, that helps me is when working with wood and I'm worried the ends may split or fray, shred  or some such I would hit that end of the wood with some glue and let it dry completely to strengthen it first.  just like you would do with string to keep it from unraveling.

[cmann]

What i've found, so far, that helps me is when working with wood and I'm worried the ends may split or fray, shred  or some such I would hit that end of the wood with some glue and let it dry completely to strengthen it first.  just like you would do with string to keep it from unraveling.

Thanks, that's another useful tip I will try to remember.

[dgbot]

While not a big fan of ca In a situation such as the one above I would use a couple drops to pin the plank down. and then follow up with white glue on the rest of the plank.  I try to avoid using nails at all on the outside planking as they entail more work after the planking is finished. 

David B

[cmann]

While not a big fan of ca In a situation such as the one above I would use a couple drops to pin the plank down. and then follow up with white glue on the rest of the plank.  I try to avoid using nails at all on the outside planking as they entail more work after the planking is finished. 

David B

That could've worked nicely, luckily though the small crack doesn't really bother me, and I actually like the small detail added by the nails.

[shoule]

Very nice work. It's coming along great.

 

 S

[cmann]

Very nice work. It's coming along great.

 

 S

Thanks.

 

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A small update, I have completed the next step and added the rudder:

 

I forgot to file down the grooves for the hinges before varnishing the first, but it was quick and easy to fix:

The rudder blade they provided was too short so I had to make another one; I used a scrap piece of plywood from one of the boards that came with the kit.

The rudder attached: I had to drill new holes in the hinges that attach to the rudder blade for most of the pins. The instructions say to use the brass pins for the hinge pin but they were far too small so I had to cut my own pins from some scrap metal I had. Nailing the hinge to the rudder was also surprisingly difficult.

The gap between the rudder and the stern is not uniform but it's not too bad.

[cmann]

Here are a few updates in a row:

 

The companion, held together with elastics while the glue set:

 

Completed, before and after varnishing:

      

 

The inside with extra structural supports:

Edited June 22, 2015 by cmann

[cmann]

The barrels before and after adding some details:

I copied this guy's barrels since it looked so good.

 

The deck with most of the details attached:

 

 

Painting the metal rings on the barrels was more difficult than I thought it would be and did not come out very well, I thought of removing the paint and starting over but it became very messy and I had trouble getting some of it off.

 

     

 

The posts supplied by the kit were all metal and didn't look very nice so I redid them with some wood:

[cmann]

Some detailed shots of the cannon:

   

[cmann]

And lastly the anchors installed:

   

[cmann]

Part of the masts sanded and varnished:

 

The bowsprit attached:

[dgbot]

Very bice,

David B

[cmann]

Very bice,

David B

Thanks

 

Since the ship is close to finished, I decided to build a case for it next.

I used 3mm glass and silicone for the case; after some searching it seems that people recommend 4mm glass but the 3mm seemed sturdy enough to me at that size.

After watching this video (

), glueing the sides together was extremely quick and easy.

Originally I was going to attach wooden edges around the glass similar to this guide:

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/furniture/Building_a_Display_Case.pdf

but I found that I preferred the plain glass so I left it as is.

 

The base was made with spare wood that I already had, the base was a piece of plywood and I used strips on the outside and quarter rounds on top to create a lip for the glass to sit in, these were attached with wood glue and panel nails. The top is covered in black felt that was attached with a thin layer of wood glue.

 

The finished case:

[cmann]

Next I have shaped and varnished the masts:

 

My brother also found a problem with the way the anchors were attached, originally the thread attached to the anchor ran underneath the thread attach to the cleats; if you were to throw the anchor over the side the rope would wrap around itself.

I fixed it by opening and removing the brass rings attached to the anchors and the reattaching them again after I fixed it.

Before: 

After:  

 

Next was the clump blocks. The manual said to use the wire for this but I didn't like the way it looked so I instead used brown thread:

To attach the thread I just twisted it around the pin and the block and carefully applied a small amount of super glue to the back, then trimmed the extra thread.

The manual never specified  how they should be attached to the hull so I used the brass nails.

 

 

I also got a nail tool which made attaching the nails extremely quick and easy.

[mrshanks]

Excellent details on this model!!!  Thanks for sharing.

 

Mike Shanks

[GuntherMT]

 

Next was the clump blocks. The manual said to use the wire for this but I didn't like the way it looked so I instead used brown thread:

30-Clump-Blocks-1.jpg

To attach the thread I just twisted it around the pin and the block and carefully applied a small amount of super glue to the back, then trimmed the extra thread.

30-Clump-Blocks-2.jpg

The manual never specified  how they should be attached to the hull so I used the brass nails.

 

 

To add to your lexicon of ship stuff - the round blocks with the 3 holes are called "Dead eyes", and the wire (or rope) that connects them to the hull are the "Chain Plates".  In some models they are wire, in some they are actual chain, and in some they are iron (usually brass in the models) bands.

 

Your rope solution looks quite good actually, and connecting them with the brass nails is a very common way of attaching them.  Nicely done.

[cmann]

Excellent details on this model!!!  Thanks for sharing.

 

Mike Shanks

No problem.

 

To add to your lexicon of ship stuff - the round blocks with the 3 holes are called "Dead eyes", and the wire (or rope) that connects them to the hull are the "Chain Plates".  In some models they are wire, in some they are actual chain, and in some they are iron (usually brass in the models) bands.

 

Your rope solution looks quite good actually, and connecting them with the brass nails is a very common way of attaching them.  Nicely done.

Thanks, that's good to know, didn't know that they were actually meant to be metal and in the manual they just refer to them as "clump blocks". 

[GuntherMT]

Click this link, and scroll down a bit past those single-hole things at the top and you'll see quite a few different types of chainplates used in kits.  These are all from Amati.

 

http://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/Amati_Deadeyes.html

[samaka]

Amazing finish in the details! I want to build this one...

 

 

...a...

[cmann]

Click this link, and scroll down a bit past those single-hole things at the top and you'll see quite a few different types of chainplates used in kits.  These are all from Amati.

 

http://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/Amati_Deadeyes.html

 

Thanks, that site might be useful if I want replacement parts; I'm assuming that you have ordered from them, but are they trustworthy? and do you have any idea what the international shipping rates might be like?

 

 

Amazing finish in the details! I want to build this one...

 

 

...a...

 

I don't have much experience with these kits as this is my first one, but I am happy with this one; besides for one or two small parts that I didn't like I haven't had any problems.

[samaka]

Thanks, that site might be useful if I want replacement parts; I'm assuming that you have ordered from them, but are they trustworthy? and do you have any idea what the international shipping rates might be like?

 

 

 

I don't have much experience with these kits as this is my first one, but I am happy with this one; besides for one or two small parts that I didn't like I haven't had any problems.

I just finished my first build - Albatros kit from Constructo so I am right in the beginning with very little experience as well. I am impressed by your result.

 

...a...

[GuntherMT]

Thanks, that site might be useful if I want replacement parts; I'm assuming that you have ordered from them, but are they trustworthy? and do you have any idea what the international shipping rates might be like?

 

No, I've never dealt with them, I just did a Google search for images of chainplates & deadeyes, and that page worked quite nicely to show multiple types.  

[cmann]

Next I will be working in the sails; the manual suggests dying them in tea to give them a more realistic look but I don't know what this will end up looking like, should I do this this?

[shoule]

 Your look is kind of clean and bright, so aging the sails might contrast, a little, but maybe you want that. You could always try some tests on a similar fabric, from the rag bin to see if it suits you.

 Also, once stained, if you don't like them, you can soak them in a, oh, 10% or less bleach to water solution and they will go back to normal without the bleachy color.

 I've been tinkering with this kit for quite some time, but made all but the hull planking, gun, and anchors from scrap. Mine looks more like a used ship than clean model. I colored the sails a couple of times, thought about rigging it furled like everyone just left the boat for shore leave, but went back to the original, color and sail plan.

 I think you are doing a great job and have no doubt that whatever you do, it will shine.

 

 Steve

[cmann]

 Your look is kind of clean and bright, so aging the sails might contrast, a little, but maybe you want that. You could always try some tests on a similar fabric, from the rag bin to see if it suits you.

 Also, once stained, if you don't like them, you can soak them in a, oh, 10% or less bleach to water solution and they will go back to normal without the bleachy color.

 I've been tinkering with this kit for quite some time, but made all but the hull planking, gun, and anchors from scrap. Mine looks more like a used ship than clean model. I colored the sails a couple of times, thought about rigging it furled like everyone just left the boat for shore leave, but went back to the original, color and sail plan.

 I think you are doing a great job and have no doubt that whatever you do, it will shine.

 

 Steve

Thanks. I think you're right, after holding the sails up against the ship I think they look fine as is.

I will keep your advice in mind though if I ever do want to dye sales in the future.

[cmann]

I have started looking at the sails but the manual doesn't show a lot of detail so I am having trouble figuring out exactly where everything goes; maybe someone here could help me.

 

Here are some photos of the instructions:

  

 

The manual list the following parts:

• 65: Two-hole blocks
• 98: Three-hole pulleys
• 109: Pulleys

Below I have a picture showing my problem, it is obvious enough at the top but I cannot tell what is happening in the corner. It seems like the line highlighted in blue goes through the two-hole block (65) circled in green but I am not sure. Is the line attached to it and from there where should it go?

[GuntherMT]

The line highlighted in blue should go all the way to a belaying point at the base of the mast.

 

The block circled in green is part of the tackle to support the foot of the boom (throat halliard), and attaches to the pulley directly above it.  If you look carefully in the inset photo, you will see that there are actually two blocks next to each other above it, one of them is the one this one attaches to, and the other (probably a single block) is taking a rope from the lower left which is probably belayed to the deck also.

 

I've tried to highlight the green 'pair' of pulleys here, as well as the second one, and it's rope, in orange.

 

 

Here is a drawing of the Throat Halliard - credit to Lennarth Petersson.  Anyone that is rigging ships should really buy both of his books, they are fantastic.

 

[aviaamator]

Dear colleagues! Realize I'm late with the advice, but I built the "Virginia," not exactly according to the instructions from the manufacturer( artesania latina). Knize anchor biting need to deploy 180 degrees. Other inaccuracies while quiet. To my regret, can not use the expanded form of the answer to show photos, alas...  

Edited July 25, 2015 by aviaamator

[aviaamator]

The best helper for us, this book is Peterson.  Also there are no scuppers, there is no radius on the deck. Etc. P.S.Sorry if this was rude...

Edited July 25, 2015 by aviaamator

[cmann]

The line highlighted in blue should go all the way to a belaying point at the base of the mast.

 

The block circled in green is part of the tackle to support the foot of the boom (throat halliard), and attaches to the pulley directly above it.  If you look carefully in the inset photo, you will see that there are actually two blocks next to each other above it, one of them is the one this one attaches to, and the other (probably a single block) is taking a rope from the lower left which is probably belayed to the deck also.

 

I've tried to highlight the green 'pair' of pulleys here, as well as the second one, and it's rope, in orange.

 

Virginiablocks.jpg

 

Here is a drawing of the Throat Halliard - credit to Lennarth Petersson.  Anyone that is rigging ships should really buy both of his books, they are fantastic.

 

ThroatHalliard.jpg

Thanks, that clears everything up.

So you would recommend buying Lennarth Petersson's books? Someone has already bought me another model as a gift: the San Juan, also by Artesanía Latina, and the rigging is a bit more complex, maybe a book would be helpful.

I see he has two books, Rigging Period Ship Models, and Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft, what's the difference?

 

Dear colleagues! Realize I'm late with the advice, but I built the "Virginia," not exactly according to the instructions from the manufacturer( artesania latina). Knize anchor biting need to deploy 180 degrees. Other inaccuracies while quiet. To my regret, can not use the expanded form of the answer to show photos, alas...  

The best helper for us, this book is Peterson.  Also there are no scuppers, there is no radius on the deck. Etc. P.S.Sorry if this was rude...

Thanks, any help is appreciated but I don't quite understand what you're saying.

What do you mean by Knize anchor biting need to deploy 180 degrees and there are no scuppers, there is no radius on the deck; and I am not sure why it would be rude.