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USS Maine by dgbot - HMV - 1/250 - CARD


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Well after 3 kits I think I am up to the challenge.  The Maine was commissioned in 1895.  She was sent to Cuba during their revolt against Spain to protect US interests.  Despite being out of date when  built the Mainh was considered an advance  in American naval design.  In 1898 the Maine suffered an explosion which killed most of the crew.  At the time the explosion was used as an excuse for the US to enter the conflict.  Now it is believed that dust from the coal bunkers caused a flash explosion. 

  The first thing I did was look over the plans and the instructions.

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David B

 

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Hi David,

 

Wow straight in to the next build!

 

Looking forward to this.

 

Cheers

Slog

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

HM Bark Endeavour (First Wood, On Hold)

Borodino (1:200 Card, Current Build)

Admiral Nakhimov (card 1/200)

Mazur D-350 Artillery Tractor (1:25 Card) 

F-8 Crusader (1:48 Aircraft, Plastic)

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I think I'll pull up a chair in the front row..   This should be an interesting build.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I might have to get a German to English dictionary.  The first thing I did was cut out and fold the bottom hull. 

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Once the spine was cut out I added a reinforcing strip to make it a little stiffer.

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The spine was then glued to the bottom hull.

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David B

 

 

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Once the spine was glued into place I proceeded to cut out and fit the bulkheads.  Making alterations as needed as each one was dry fitted before hand.  Another thing I learned was to use the glue sparingly.  It dried faster and less chance of warping the paper.

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Dry fitting the part

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Making the alteration as needed

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So far so good.

David B

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I'm pulling up a seat too. Fascinating ship and I'll enjoy seeing this built from card.

 

Steve

completed models:

Shenandoah (Corel)

 

waiting on the shelf:

La Sirene (Corel)

Half Moon (Corel)

Puritan (Mamoli)

 

 

 

Patsy (derisively): "It's only a model."

Arthur: "Sshhh."

 

 

 

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Just found your new build and joined to public

 

Nenad

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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After double checking the bulkeads I started on the hauptdeck or main deck. 

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It came in two parts, the bow and the stern.  I decided to work on the stern first.

The first thing to do was seperate them from the sheet

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Then came the dry fitting,  This is important never glue anything until you are really sure you are going to be happy with the results.  It was through this process that I discovered an error in the plan.  It was missing the slots for one of the bulkeads.

After marking out the location I made a slot

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Then came the fun part of moving and flexing the paper without tearing to get it to fit aft section.

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The rest of the part was then fitted, then came smoothing it out so that it lies evenly.

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No glue has been used yet.

David B

 

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Once the aft deck was dryfitted I did the same with the front part.

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Once I was sure of the fit I then glued the decks down.

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So far so good.

David B

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The next piece I worked on was the Aufbauwand hinten.  In place of photo etched parts extra panels were added to give a 3d effect.  So the first thing I did was cutout these pieces and glued them to the main piece.

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Then came the fun part of gluing it to the deck.  This took some time.  Once more the old saying less is more came into play for the glue.  Just a light touch gave me all the tack I needed.  Plus no overage and weakening of the part.

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So far so good.

David B

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I'm really glad you're posting this, David. This is the first card model I've watched come together. How rigid is the structure at this point?

 

Steve

completed models:

Shenandoah (Corel)

 

waiting on the shelf:

La Sirene (Corel)

Half Moon (Corel)

Puritan (Mamoli)

 

 

 

Patsy (derisively): "It's only a model."

Arthur: "Sshhh."

 

 

 

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Hi David -

 

Nice progress on the card model.  I did not know that it existed, or I might have looked at it when I was building my Maine (1:72) for the Brooklyn Navy Yard Museum.  The card model looks accurate, which is not easy, because none of the known plans of the Maine are "as built".  They are all earlier or later examples in the design process and differ in large or small details from the actual ship.

 

If you want to see what she did look like, go to the site for the US Library of Congress and search the site for the USS Maine (you will get a few hits for the second USS Maine, but these are easily distinguished and can be ignored).  During her 2 year career a photographer from a Detroit newspaper or organization got access and took a number of large format photographs.  Some are of the entire ship and some were taken on board with groups of officers or crewmen.  They show lots and lots of details that do not appear on the plans. 

 

The LoC has had them scanned at several resolutions.  The largest is 1200 dpi, which means that each square inch of the photo has over 1 megabyte of information.  You can download them free if your system can handle it.  If you do, you can take a photo of the entire ship and zoom in until you can see the facial expressions on individual sailors, as well as all the fittings, weapons, railings, decorative details, and even the rivets on the hull plates.  There is no better resource than this.

 

Some photos of my own model can be seen on the NRG website.  I have others if you think they might help.

 

Best of success with the project, she is coming along very nicely.

 

Dan

Edited by shipmodel

Current build -SS Mayaguez (c.1975) scale 1/16" = 1' (1:192) by Dan Pariser

 

Prior scratch builds - Royal yacht Henrietta, USS Monitor, USS Maine, HMS Pelican, SS America, SS Rex, SS Uruguay, Viking knarr, Gokstad ship, Thames River Skiff , USS OneidaSwan 42 racing yacht  Queen Anne's Revenge (1710) SS Andrea Doria (1952), SS Michelangelo (1962) , Queen Anne's Revenge (2nd model) USS/SS Leviathan (1914),  James B Colgate (1892),  POW bone model (circa 1800) restoration

 

Prior kit builds - AL Dallas, Mamoli Bounty. Bluejacket America, North River Diligence, Airfix Sovereign of the Seas

 

"Take big bites.  Moderation is for monks."  Robert A. Heinlein

 

 

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The basic hull is starting to become more rigid so I cannot manhandle it.  The biggest trouble I have now is making sure everything is cut properly.

David B

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Hi, David.  Just got back from Mexico and saw you were on your way with this model.  A couple of things to keep in mind with this model: 1) HMV design tolerances are very tight, so be very careful about positioning parts.  With so many pieces, cumulative 'error creep' can be a problem.  2)  I believe HMV has a laser-cut detail set for this model available now.  If so, it is well worth the money.  3)  Be prepared for some design glitches.  I have this model about half-built, so I may be able to help you when you run into snags.

 

Cheers!

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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Thanks for the advice Chris.  I looked into the laser set but it is unavailable.

Thanks for looking in Dan.  This model is a great learning experience.  And as Chris has stated it has a few wrinkles that I have to watch out for.

David B

Edited by dgbot
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Before I finished the house I cut out the Aufbauwand hinten and started building it up.  The first part was the easiest just fold and attach to the wall.

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David B

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The next part or front turrets I am not sure of the terminolgy were cut out and built up.  Once the part was dry I used a bamboo skewer to form the folds and bends.  This was then glued into place.  One of the things I was worried about was alignment so the assembly was not glued down yet.

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This might seem a little childish but I have already learned the hard way plus the warning from Brian C to be careful.  Down the road I am glad I did.

David B

 

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The next piece of business was the roofs of the for and aft cabins.  Basically cut them out and put in the plugs for the holds.

This was straight forward just keep a steady hand and a sharp knife.  The holds were put together by folding them and adding a piece of paper to the back to aid in the glue up.  Then everything was glued together

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David B

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Hi David -

 

I haven't appreciated card models very much before this, but this one seems to be quite accurate.  You are doing a very neat job too.  Looking good.

 

The curved front pieces that you just assembled are not the turret itself.  They are a set of six hinged doors.  A 5 inch gun is mounted on a rotating base behind them.  The barrel extends snugly through the large black dot (hole) at the corner of 4 of the doors.  In combat the doors would all be opened to allow the barrel to traverse and elevate.  There is a matching pair at the stern as well.

 

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I am following your progress with great interest.

 

Dan

Edited by shipmodel

Current build -SS Mayaguez (c.1975) scale 1/16" = 1' (1:192) by Dan Pariser

 

Prior scratch builds - Royal yacht Henrietta, USS Monitor, USS Maine, HMS Pelican, SS America, SS Rex, SS Uruguay, Viking knarr, Gokstad ship, Thames River Skiff , USS OneidaSwan 42 racing yacht  Queen Anne's Revenge (1710) SS Andrea Doria (1952), SS Michelangelo (1962) , Queen Anne's Revenge (2nd model) USS/SS Leviathan (1914),  James B Colgate (1892),  POW bone model (circa 1800) restoration

 

Prior kit builds - AL Dallas, Mamoli Bounty. Bluejacket America, North River Diligence, Airfix Sovereign of the Seas

 

"Take big bites.  Moderation is for monks."  Robert A. Heinlein

 

 

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Thanks Dan, like I said my German is not that good. This was gift from the clubs in Chicago and I want to do it justice. I will probably be begging for help on detail down the road to enhance it. I already picked up some raw umber and plan on getting some black watercolor paint as well. Hobby Lobby has what I am looking for. Question what kind if stock is this paper?

David B

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David -

 

I don't know what kind of paper your model is made from.  Chris would be a better one to answer that question.  My one suggestion in dealing with paper decking that I use is to give is several coats of clear satin finish.  If I don't do that the paper changes shape and size when I apply water based glue to put it down.

 

Feel free to ask about details of the ship as you continue the build.  Happy to help.

 

Dan

Current build -SS Mayaguez (c.1975) scale 1/16" = 1' (1:192) by Dan Pariser

 

Prior scratch builds - Royal yacht Henrietta, USS Monitor, USS Maine, HMS Pelican, SS America, SS Rex, SS Uruguay, Viking knarr, Gokstad ship, Thames River Skiff , USS OneidaSwan 42 racing yacht  Queen Anne's Revenge (1710) SS Andrea Doria (1952), SS Michelangelo (1962) , Queen Anne's Revenge (2nd model) USS/SS Leviathan (1914),  James B Colgate (1892),  POW bone model (circa 1800) restoration

 

Prior kit builds - AL Dallas, Mamoli Bounty. Bluejacket America, North River Diligence, Airfix Sovereign of the Seas

 

"Take big bites.  Moderation is for monks."  Robert A. Heinlein

 

 

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Thanks Dan. One of the things I have learned is you do not need a lot. Plus rubber cement can be used for super large pieces.

David B

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been able to get some more into the Maine and was able to finish off the two cabins.

And here is where I found that rubbing alcohol can be your best friend. 

While fitting the roof of the forward cabin I noticed that the walls were not fully aligned.  By using a brush and a drop of rubbing alcohol I was able to reposition everything for a better fit.  Plus the alcohol evaporated quickly and did not stain or damage the material.  Once the roof was placed to my satisfaction I glued it down using a weight to hold it until the glue dried.  Then a little touch up with a brush and it is about as good as I can make it.

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David B

 

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David -

 

It's looking really good!  It looks like you are using the most important tools, a sharp knife and patience.  Keep up the good work, and keep those photos coming.  Your shipmates in Tri-Club will expect a full presentation when you come home.

 

BobF

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The aft deck was pretty much the same way but once more the alcohol saved the day.  One of the items I found usful for applying glue is a dental pic.  Not only will it apply glue it helps to put pressure on the joint as well.

  On the aft deck to help with the tabs I used a ruler and some weight to get an even edge

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Then after reworking the cabin sides I started to fit the roof. Dry fitting it first.

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And once more a weight was used to help keep everything straight.

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Then I proceeded to touch up the edges.

David B

 

 

 

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The next item was the hull.  The sides were two parts each. The first thing was to cut them out and glue them together.

I used a piece of scrap on the back at the joint and a straight edge to make sure it was lined up properly.

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Then I cut out and applied the accents.  This part was the nerve racking part where a steady hand and a sharp scalpel came in handy.

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David B

 

 

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Once everything was added to the side panels they were glued into place.  The first thing I did was to tack the bow sections in place so I could make sure everything was even on both sides.  And glued the sides to the hull.  I then noticed that one side was about a 1/16 to short.  So I cut a section and added a strip to make it fit.  A little pressure and the seam is hardly noticable.  I will proceed to hide it as I proceed with the model.

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David B

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Edited by dgbot
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Possibility of card models in good hands supprise me over and over.

 

Keep a good work, my friend

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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  • 2 weeks later...

Time for another update.  I started working on the center house.  Once more I cut out the panels and applied the extra panels.

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I also cut out the deck and started to fit them into place.

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So far so good

David B

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