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HMC Sherbourne by Dubz - (Pimp my Sherbourne)

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Dirk,

 

You are certainly a master at this art. Beautifully articulated details. A real pleasure to follow and to learn from you as well. 

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

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Thanks a lot for your nice comments!! Like that :D

 

Okidoki, it's time to think about the rigging I guess. 

Yesterday I checked the plans and some of my sources, that will be mainly Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft by Lennarth Petersson, with additional books like the AOTS Alert, Masting an Rigging by James Lees and a (great) german book Rundhölzer, Tauwerk und Segel by Klaus Schrage.

 

This will, btw, not be a 100% accurate scientific work with every detail researched ;)

 

First conclusion after checking what caldercraft wants is: Way to less belaying points ... what a surprise :D

 

So I fixed this with longer pinrails.

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_493.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_494.jpg

 

And some knees. I saw these on some models and like the detail even it might be not correct for the Sherbourne. 

But this build does not claim to be perfect anyway. Remember it started as a "Ok, let's build this ship fast OOB" ;)

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_496.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_497.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_499.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_498.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Dirk

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This will, btw, not be a 100% accurate scientific work with every detail researched ;)

 

Dirk,

 

Ok, only 98% then!

 

You came to the same conclusions that I did. However, I opted to use the pin rails supplied (I now wish I had changed them) and am thinking of using shroud cleats for the lighter rigging. I also placed a small pin rail on each quarter, with two belaying pins in each. One (together with a lead block) is for the spread yard braces, the other is now a spare – it had originally been for the gaff vangs, until I learnt that cutters supposedly didn't have them at that date. 

 

She's coming on a treat! :)

Edited by Stockholm tar

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Thanks Kester, I still need to figure out how to get more belaying points at the bow ...

 

After removing the masking tape ;) Added the traveler for the boom sheet. Don't worry, the brass pins won't stay brass ;)

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_500.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_501.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_503.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_504.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Dirk

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Dirk,

 

Yes, you have to tone down that brass, and I like the traveller.

 

Again, I thought the same when it came to the bow area, and decided on fitting a pinrail between the catheads, which passes over the bowsprit. Due to the position of the latter you end up with more rather pins on the starboard side, but at least it's a help. I have a feeling though it won't be enough!

 

There's a shot of it in one of the photographs on page three of my log, about half way down.

 

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This is how I solved my missing bow belaying pins problem ;)

 

Usually I start with making a cardboard template.

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_505.jpg

 

Then adjusting the woodmade piece ... btw, when I know I will paint something so that I can use filler I'm not 100% accurate in building a piece.

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_506.jpg

 

Finally (one last coat of paint is needed)

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_507.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_508.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_509.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_510.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_511.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Dirk

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I'm just looking and looking at your newest additions, and enjoying it, Dirk, even if it leaves me slightly worried when I think of how I should follow you there …

If I might ask a question: Would shroud pin rails be a valid alternative to your longer pin rails? The Brig Badger shows this detail (I think it would look good also - and I could avoid destroying my bulwark, my pin rails already being glued on quite strongly).

At the shrouds there should be also room for six more pins on each side - but would they work? I'm sure you (and Kester) have an opinion on this subject.

Always grateful,

Gregor

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Thanks a lot for your continues support guys!

 

Gregor, I thought a while about and I checked your pictures. I would suggest expanding your pinrail at least (maybe you can just add another one and fill the gap with filler and then repaint). Even with all the belayingpoints I have now, it would be still not enough for a full rigged cutter like in this picture by K.H. Marquardt I guess and would then have to go to e.g. shroudclamps.

 

post-224-0-85239100-1391016311_thumb.jpg

 

cheers,

 

Dirk

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Out of curiosity and ignorance, Dirk, are the extra belaying pins required if full running rigging and sails are to be added as in the Marquardt drawing? Or do you think the existing number would be ok for the standing rigging. I have yet to study the rigging plans, but I thought I'd take a shortcut!

 

Tony

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Thank you, Dirk, for this advice. I will try to expand the rail (there should be room for five more pins this way). I really have to improve my theoretical sailing skills, so I will get a better understanding of what I'm doing.

Many thanks for your help!

Gregor

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Tony,

 

I think I understand your question. However a large part of the rigging, both running and standing, would most likely remain aloft whether the sails were present or not. When sails were unbent, the upper sheets, halliards, buntlines, leechlines, etc., would still remain rove through their blocks and be belayed to their pins at the rail. This, of course, would also be the case if the sails were just furled. Probably the only time the rigging would have been completely removed is when the vessel was in refit, it was being replaced, or perhaps when the vessel in harbour for a length of time.

 

I'm not sure, therefore, that you can afford to take the shortcut – if you want to get it right! :P

 

Regarding extending the pinrail, this would seem quite feasible, but I am not sure that I can do it now on my Sherbourne. Access would be difficult, and the rails would ideally need pinning as well as glueing. I really don't feel like trying it either, with the mast, shrouds, and everything else already in place – and I'd probably have to turn the model on its side.  :o  I suppose I should really have thought about this earlier. However, I think that shroud cleats for the lighter rigging, is the way to go. As Gregor has pointed out with the Badger, they were also quite common – so I feel justified in using them.

 

As it is, the smaller pinrails are already filling up. I have two pins on the larboard rail and three on the starboard taken up so far, and I have barely started the rigging process! All of them, by the way have purchases, the lower block being fitted to the deck, so they need to go to the pin rail. (Btw, the pins are quite close together, and it is a challenge to belay the rigging to them, let alone fit the coils!) I think it might be a good idea to work out what rigging actually needs belaying on each pinrail, logically going through the sails and rigging. Some of the rigging I think we can safely ignore – the sheets for instance normally belay at the bottom of the mast, and where I have fitted a small pinrail forward of the mast for them. These early yard halliards too, seeing that they are rove through single blocks on the fore side of the mast, would logically seem to go to the base of the mast. I have fitted some cleats on the mast for them. However, I am sure there are plenty of other lines to belay near the shrouds, not forgetting of course the halliards for the headsails!

 

Oh, what fun! :)

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Very, very good work Dirk. I'm impressed most of all by your ability to go back and fix mistakes most would not detect with no apparent resultant damage to the crispness of the build. Remarkable!!!

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Yes, I can see you're totally right, Kester. I had been wondering whether all the buntlines, leechlines etc would still go down to the deck. I suppose I was thinking that they were somehow kept with the sail -- I even thought they might be wrapped round the sail when furled against the yard! Anyway, I am glad you have (silently) excused my ignorance. I can see that I'll have to think about taking off those pinrails which are epoxied and pinned. I don't yet have the experience with filler, but I might try that out.

 

Sorry for disrupting the flow of your log, Dirk!

 

Tony

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Hi Guys, You could just make a 2nd pin rail a short distance forward or aft of the original, Dirk could simply extend his as he is at the building stage, but I'm sure a 2nd or even a 3rd Pin Rail would be fine (small ones even with only 3 or even 4 pins each would help) then use Shroud Cleats too for leftovers.

Just a thought, so don't all gang up on me.. :P

 

Eamonn

aka 'Future Sherbourner'.. ^_^

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By The Way I just spotted that it's Dirks Birthday.. :D

 

'Happy Birthday Dirk, hope you have a brilliant day, and treated yourself to loads of boatbuilding presents'

 

'Oh and Drinks.. drinks are always good too.. :P '

 

Eamonn

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Clever lad, Eamonn. Yes, Dirk's is most definitely worth a celebration.

 

Here's to you, Dirk (as I hold my glass up high) -- and may you have many years of happy build logging left!

 

Tony

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Just a thought, so don't all gang up on me.. :P

 

Eamonn,

 

Perish the thought! :)

 

Dirk,

 

Very Happy Birthday, have a great day!  My apologies for hogging your log! :unsure:

Edited by Stockholm tar

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Happy Birthday, Dirk! Wishing you excellent celebrations both today and throughout your coming year! :)

 

Cheers,

Jay

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Hej guys,

 

thanks a lot for your birthday wishes!! :) Made me smile :) My boatbuilding present will hopefully arrive soon, I'll show you then ;)

 

And btw, no need to apologize for the rigging discussion in here, I for myself think this is an appropriate place here as it is directly related to the build.

 

cheers,

 

Dirk

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Small Update. I blackend the pins, I know they are wood but I like the look ;)

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_513.jpg

 

I then redid the bitt before the main hatch. As on the Alert (and in Gregors log ;)) I like to have, guess it makes sense, the windlass there. It's not finished yet but anyway some pictures ... ;) I used boxwood. Love the sharp edges you get :)

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_515.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_517.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_518.jpg

 

Sherbourne_Baubericht_523.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Dirk

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Dirk,

I like your Sherbourne sub-waterline clinker so much, my fingers are itching for trying out this on a model in the future,

 

lovely work !

 

Nils

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A real marvel Dirk and such a treat for the eyes. I love the combination and harmony of colors with the various woods that you use.

 

Yves

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