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HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...

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Thank you SIrs!


Happy new year!

And what better way to celebrate than with a proper demolition, something I had already planned for some time. In September 2010, I was quite happy for one more rare occasion again, to be able to glue a part coming straight from the casting branch, just as the god of molds created it, directly to the model without pimping or without any further fuss.


See here it is, the little crown ...




... by now I'm pretty sure that was not placed there around 1805. Probably an invention of 1920, when restoring to the Trafalgar state, for lack of better knowledge at that time. As the beam is called cathead, there usually was a cat's or lion's head on it in the initial phase. At the time of the Victory's construction, however, a kind of compass rose was common, sometimes also an anchor. Since the 1765 model of the Vic shows this compass rose and also the 1805 model, which was wrongly called "Victory", had such a rose, I felt quite confident to skip my sweet little crown with a light heart.


I made a compass rose out of modeling clay, and since the dimensions were tiny and tight, I printed the outlines on baking paper and was thus able to easily form to the true dimensions and to detach the fragile structure.




Once fit test on a replacement cathead with a specimen that proved too thick ...




... and I bravely swung the blade.




The new part was quickly glued in place ...




... and still a little paint was put on it. 




And as a gif it gives a little impression of the depth effect. Enjoy 🙂




I know I've had other demolition orgies before, I just got out of practice 😉


All the best, Daniel

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Before resuming the main trail, I had to clean and look for parts.


I was also asked how big my little one could get, and to my shame I have to confess that after more than 10 years I didn't even know ...

So I put in the jib, the flying jib and the gaff boom and hung up the mainsail yard with the stun´sail spars. So the dimensions were taken: 105 cm x 52 cm x 73 cm. Good that I know now 🙂


Here are some pictures of the actual state.














But you guessed it, setting main yard was not done so quickly. 1805 was in the middle of the war and Lees describes that the lower yard slings were replaced by chains during this war periods. As I had a piece of chain of the right length, this was immediately used for this purpose. But in the process it was noticed that the two scuttles for this were still missing in the main fighting top, as was the nailing ...




... so this was quickly done.






Here the comparison with the fore top: brown is the kit, white the new structure, as the tops were to be built in two parts from 1802 onwards to simplify repairs.




And then the main yard could be finally set, correctly with chain 🙂








Note the following detail: On the starboard side, the stopper cleat of the square rig is shaped like a bow, as it is on the Vic today. On the port side it is formed as a shoulder, as shown by Lees, Schrade and some contemporary models. I have not yet been able to find out which variant was used when.

As always, questions about questions.


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And in order not to frighten the suspicious and spoiled audience, we continue with another dismantling. 


First, a look at the scene of crime, the middle battery deck.




The normal tiller is located in the lower battery deck under the deck beams. The picture shows in the foreground how the rudder head protrudes into the middle battery deck, with the slot for the emergency tiller in case the lower one is damaged. Handy in times of storm and battle.




On the Vic in P., the rudder head is covered with an 8-cornered oval cowl. So far I haven't found such a part in the contemporary records. The contemporary model of the Princess Royal and other models show a cowl that goes all the way to the rear seat under the windows.




So snap away the current cover ...




... and new window seats, using a figure to determine the seat height, the total height was determined by the lower edge of the window.




The depth is based on the model of the Princess Royale. After some fiddling, the cover and the two benches were built.




Another cutter blade was profiled to be able to score the surrounding profile ...




... and the whole lot adjusted in place. That's when the great depth caught my eye. Even though it was certainly used for storage, it was much too deep.




In case of battle, both the bench and the cover would have been dismantled to get to the hidden stern chasing ports. And you can see now on the gun how much space is wasted in this version with the bench. 




Here again the rudder head ...




... with the slot for the emergency tiller. So I shorten the bench a bit in depth.




Here the port side has already been shortened ...




... and here the other side as well.




And our master is having a good time 🙂

Then another blade was profiled and a drawing iron made for the frame lining of the window frames.




And this is how it looks now 🙂






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Here still on request as a supplement the hidden stern port from Goodwin's "operating manual"....






The other day - about 8 years ago or so - I had the companionway installed next to the capstan.




But as is so often found on English ships, there was a companionway just inside the capstan bars´ turning circle.




But how was this companionway closed when the capstan was operated? The first thing to notice was that the already made coaming on the model was not complete. As what do you do in such a case? One swings the blade ...




... and builds a new coaming 🙂




Of course, the sharp-eyed observer will not miss the fact that there is a small 90° twist here in coming n#1. So I had to do it again and here it is the new quadruple coaming combination, from left to right: In the first field comes the rope for the tiller cable, then the companionway, a free coaming and the enclosure of the capstan.




Today in P. there is a grating underneath the capstan. However, since the contemporary models I know have a solid two-piece wooden plate there, I decided to use one as well. The adjacent panel I have provided with a grating, so there can be a visual and auditory contact between the decks. The companionway here is covered by simply planks. Quick and effective to set up and clear away.


Possibly the companionway could also have been covered by a grating. Therefore I covered the field in the direction of the capstan with planks.




Or as seen on the Amazon class Frigate model in the NMM SLR0315 https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66276.html a double leaf flap. Very elegant solution. Closed it's good to walk on, open it also serves as a railing and doesn't need to be stowed anywhere else.








Also the flaps can be opened when the capstans bars are fixed.




Could this be a way of solving the mystery of how to close the companionway?  ...



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Thank you!


Profiling the coaming: First a slight curvature analogous to the camber, and then the edges rounded. 




Still tinkered some more gratings,  ...




... and all fitted together. Here in a closed state, ...




... and here open.




The whole set open in situ 🙂









Here the slots in the grating for the rudder rope.






And closed in situ.









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  • 2 weeks later...

Small intermezzo - gadgets


Tweezers fitted with a small angled groove, so I can hold and place my deck pillars angled and canted 45°.






My collection of converted wooden clothespins is also growing.




And for works within the hull, always put a cotton pad underneath and the dirt gets caught.

Also no parts can escape down through companionways if sealed with cotton.




And if you need to get things out of obscure corners, the shish kebab with double-sided tape on its tip has proven itself - gets into places that tweezers have never gone before.





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And here we go again. 


Short positional test of the guns in interaction with the capstan.


Guns run out ...




... stowed ...




... cleared out of the radius of the capstan bars.




The next stages of construction will require the missing deck beams. Here is the status. The missing beams give a spaciousness and light that never existed.




Beams pre-bent in a template. Supports prepared. Yes, you might be amazed, actually these are parts of the kit 😉




Because of the main mast, no deck beam can be set at this point. Therefor, two strong carling bridge the gap and also give guidance to the mast. But alas, there's my double-deck pump in the way. This mystery, the haunting specter of all plans between 1790 and 1860.***






Either the mast does not fit through ...




... or they are too far apart.




A quick look at the model of the Princess Royal reveals that the pump cases are built around the carlings, so one inner tube lies to the left and one to the right of the carling. 




So pump torn out, a through hole was dug into the case, carling fitted.




A cotton pad was put as dirt trap underneath and the groove for the carling was carved.




And done.





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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Sometimes I am stupid ...


I had already described the initial situation a long time ago. The bits of the kit were "a bit" strange in their shape. Thereupon I had fiddled new ones ...




... and because I need some of them for different tasks, I casted them. A complicated mold with two-component silicone putty inlets - top tec




The other day, I noticed that the bits are still pretty low, even though I had my scale mate with me when I took the photos ...


... grrrrr...


Here again the summary:








Version 1 anno 2016:






So consulted the McKay and printed the parts in these dimensions.






And since I want to be a model builder, i tinkered around with the printed parts, and got this 🙂






For the belaying pins I made a template to cut to length, with wire feed from the left, and catch basket underneath, goes smooth and

quickly and well cut to 6 mm.






Then a montage holder with through holes - needed print wise - taped with mirror tape to a wooden stick and filled with the cut offs.




The mirror tape actually secures the wire pieces against falling out. After that I leveled the lengths a bit ...




... it looks like this:




Then prepared the pin head. White glue in cup 1, water in cup 2 and the mixture in cup 3. And for that the brush does not dry out when the pin is left to dry, it is brought to the right height with a clothes peg so that its tip is in the water.




Then the glue is applied in several layers on both sides of the head. The thinner the glue, and the more layers there are, the more uniform the result. So do not make the first layers with a too thick glue-water mixture! And always let it dry befor the next touch up. That's why I use the white glue "express" version, so that work can proceed quickly.




In my case it was 6 to 8 layers. When the head has the right size and form, let it dry well and paint it 🙂




Then paint the bit itself with the base color ...




... and keep the holes open.


After that I like to put thinned ink in all the inside edges, it adds depth. Next a light wood color on all scuffed edges and finally some white brushing on all outside edges, it just always gives a good look.

Then inserted the pins, secured with white glue - which dries transparent - level the top side, bring it to a leveled length on the underneath side where necessary to adjusted the lengths and added the color.

And what used to look like this ...




... then becomes like this. So even printed parts need a lot of love and affection from a tender modeler's hand 😉





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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the Likes gentlemen.


In the meantime, it has turned out that I have a nice challenge as I had only sketched out all the inner structures at the beginning of furbishing the lower gun deck and was that I was only going by sight ...


But as soon as one has to handle reference or chain dimensions, it becomes tricky ...





The mast partners and carlings of the main cargo hatch had to be moved several times until they finally fitted. And the deck beam cemented in so tightly that it was too difficult to replace it for a fresh one without scars ...


So first I had to define reference points for further work. You can't get in there any more with a caliper or a measuring compass.

Therefore, a thin strip of paper with some excess length placed on the beam, one side to the stop and something sharp pressed into the bend edge of the excess on the other side. Thus the respective length was fast determined. Then fold the strip in half and you have the exact center. Put it back on the beam and mark the middle spot. This quickly determines the center line of the deck.




Or, as with the hatch, place a piece of paper on top and mark the width with a scalpel. Hatch dimension quickly and accurately determined.




Fortunately I was able to clean up the messed deck beams, uffz!





Then the sequence of hatches were determined.






And also the Brodie stove has finally a prospect of a home 🙂






Then started working my way forward starting at the back capstan. As to be expected, there's a second companionway in the way of the capstan bars.




Marking the place of the companionway was useful, when I took it away it turned out that the removed deck stanchions from the lower deck batterie were stored right where the stairs is coming down.





So the stanchions were to be turned 90° and placed under the stairs.




It's looking better already.



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Why I always make so many test installations and pictures of it? Because sometimes I'm just stupid ...


Test fit of the companionway: coaming and stairs




- check - fits! Other side ...




- check - fits! Other side ...




- check - fits! Door flaps inserted, since the companionway is below the radius of the capstan bars ...




- check - fiiiiiiiiiiiiiieeeeeeeehhhhhhh...


Crap, find the mistake ...






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Ok, looks a bit better now 🙂


The sailers will be able to pass in between the flaps and do not have to jump them 😉






Now the support fold in the coaming, so that the flaps do not swing down, the plug holes for the iron corner posts of the guardrail, the stairs correctly aligned and good it will be.





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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Once again the typical Dafinist shift of the scene of crime. Since I know that I soon will need another stern for the Vic, I dared to tackle an issue that I could only solve by clever colouring when I created the last one.


But one after the other. Here are the parts of the kit as they fell out of their box.




First the courageous cut to separate the lower part, which makes the assembly immensely easier later.




Then I filed out the name cartouche and levelled it with a matching sanding block. The wood structure also went to wood-structure-heaven.




Then a cut between the profiles above the pilasters ...




... and one below.




Then using the chisel to discard of the old pilasters.




Then trimmed the profile from the top side ...




... and cut it so deeply from below that it came out in one piece.




And everything smoothed out with the small files and the matching sanding blocks 🙂




And then *tata* the new pilasters came out of the hat 🙂








And in situ.




Fits 🙂




I also re-pilastered the side galleries. Here the comparison with the originals of the kit.








And the parts are so fine that I only saw in the super macro that the volutes of the pilasters had slipped up a bit during the first adjustment, or better saying that the upper volutes had not moved down with the rest when they were shortened ...






So I went back to the computer, moved the volutes in the 6 panels and reprinted them ...


So, as a little titbit, the following picture. I wanted to know if this resin can be moulded under heat like the cast resin. And I was surprised, a short dip in hot water and you can almost tie a knot in the pilaster ladder. Honestly - I swear!




The reason for this action is that the kit parts are getting on in years and have plenty of sink marks in the area of the pilasters that are very difficult to iron out. But admittedly, it also looks nicer. I am already looking forward to do the the painting.


This is how it will look like.




Ok, and the printer is already running, more pictures soon.



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Posted (edited)

After this short side walk, I continued on the middle deck....




Now with all parts, so also etching supports for the fall protection.




Then with paper strips determining center and left and right edges ...




... aging parts and glueing the coaming in place.




Note that the staircase will not fit through the top because of the rabbet, so it must be pulled up from below with thread ...




... flaps inserted ...




... and the thread pulled with surgical precision and ready the open version 🙂




Then closed the flaps, removed the supports and inserted the capstan.




Here is the whole thing then finally with my small scaling companion.




And in the overview 🙂




All the best, Daniel


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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

To once again contradict all those who think that the printer is the solution to all trying and an easy way to the part ...




In the meantime I have converted some of my resin castings into printed parts. The form is just a bit more sharp. Here are the timber heads.






And the anchors now have their shape according to Steel and other contemporary sources.  The edge between the shaft and arm is sharp by now and not as rounded as in modern sources as AOTS and others.










The shaft has the nut in the area of its head, the stock has the matching counterpart.




I was particularly taken with the small kegde anchor. It was probably stowed on the aft starboard best bower.






With the pin lock and the pin securing line.




And a very, very small detail after Steel: The anti-slip device of the shaft. Simply split the end of the arm and bend it open. Can be pressed together again for repair purposes and then again fits through the hole 🙂




Still missing the family pictures of the anchors 🙂




Stowing of the Stream Anchor on the aft port Best Bower.




The head of the shaft with its characteristic bevelled corners and the indicated woolings of the rings.




And anchor buoys and anchor shoes were also redone.






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Posted (edited)

Of course it tickled my fingers and was already overdue, but finally I could slap some colour on the pilasters 🙂

First some ochre, then a bit of heavily thinned ink for the depths and finally some white brushed over it for the heights, and then the whole thing on a black background - oh how cool 😎








This is the area as I did it with the original part to compare.



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