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Good Evening All,  I had a chance this afternoon to go through and read this blog from the beginning.  There were several interesting points that I wish I had been able to comment on at the time.  I hope that you won't mind if I interject a few thoughts here as I am sure that there are other gunboat builders that may be reading this.  First of all, there was a comment and a question on "two books" on the Philadelphia and I did not see an answer to that.  I am guessing that the two books in question are John R Bratten's "The Gondola Philadelphia & the Battle of Lake Champlain" and the other would be Philip K Lundeberg's book "The Gunboat Philadelphia and the Defense of Lake Champlain in 1776"  Both being worthy companions to a build.

 

I have attached a couple of pictures here, the first concerns the hawse pipe.  In talking to a old shipwright, he explained that often the hawse pipe back in the day was a lead pipe that was fitted into a hole in the bulwarks and then the ends were hammered and peened over the edges to secure it.  I decided that a bunch of barn builders and detachments of army soldiers probably would have done something expedient just like that, so I used some brass tubing with solder on the ends and just hammered the edges over with a pin punch, the painted it with Vallejo Oily Steel. 

 

I wanted to add a comment on cannonballs also (Particularly in a larger scale as the Philadelphia is.)  Below is a picture of an old shotgun pellet training tool or paper weight depending on usage.  My point being, that there are printed cards, etc that show exact sizes of shotgun pellets and one shotgun shell of the correct shot size will certainly arm at least a small brig with more than enough cannonballs! 

 

(PS  I read somewhere in my research that the bottom planks were tarred, so I did just smear on a thick coating of that tannish tarry color that you see on sun baked asphalt roofs, but was still asked in Manitowoc if that was a water line model..........)

 

Enough of this for the night.  Sam      

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Sam,

    There were several PHILLY builds going at the same time.  Sometimes the discussions shifted from one to another.  I believe I discussed both books in my log.  I also covered them as well as "Benedict Arnold's Navy" in my scratch PHILLY build log.  All excellent resources.

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Sam,

 

I, for one, would like to see your posts on this any other discussion in it's own place.  It a) deserves it and B) it won't be lost in Steve's build.   Can you be persuaded to put your tips, tricks, methods into say... here:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/24-wood-ship-model-kit-questions-and-reviews/  

 

If the moderators think it should be somewhere else, I'd hope they will move it.  But you do have some seriously excellent suggestions, ideas, and methods.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Here are a few pics.. my humble offering! Been so busy with our new album..(I am a jazz drummer). Say Chuck, we are getting a lot of air play on KSDS 88.3 in San Diego. We are working to get down there soon for a gig!

Anyway, working on the rope coils, getting set to get some rigging started.

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  • 3 weeks later...

post-13761-0-60054800-1441248692_thumb.jpgpost-13761-0-47939900-1441248604_thumb.jpgpost-13761-0-28946700-1441248605_thumb.jpgpost-13761-0-27294900-1441248606_thumb.jpgSo I decided to make real bricks as in Kurts article. It was actually fun to do. I removed the wooden bricks and used it as the mold. I even sprayed with cooking spray after testing one with and without. The spray works great. I used ca glue to assemble the cookstove. There were enough bumps etc to elevate the bricks for the morter. I used Sculpey terracotta clay for the bricks. For the morter Liquidtex modeling paste. I added a drop of walnut stain to the Liquidtex and was happy with the color. I simply "caulked" the bricks. I wll add the burnt wood etc.  

Good time on that project!

Edited by Steve.Y
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