dgbot Posted September 3, 2015 Share #211 Posted September 3, 2015 A job well done Canute and bebopsteve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share #212 Posted September 3, 2015 Thanks guys.. And thank you Kurt! I received rigging rope, 5mm hooks and the block kit from Syren today. Kurt, you were not kidding about how outstanding the rope is. It is superb! and it is easier for me to work with. The blocks and hooks look great too! And the customer service at Syren is the best! I even started some rigging tonite. Anyway thanks for all your help! Canute and Chuck 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Seiler Posted September 3, 2015 Share #213 Posted September 3, 2015 Steve, That stove looks great!!!! bebopsteve and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share #214 Posted September 3, 2015 Thanks Chuck!.. I think Building the cookstove was the most fun part of the build so far. Just started rigging this evening.. That is... uhhh... relaxing? Canute 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Seiler Posted September 3, 2015 Share #215 Posted September 3, 2015 Have you been practicing your rope coils? One thing you will have to think about is at some point you will be building the canopy. Make sure your blocks, etc are either above or below the canopy line (as appropriate). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share #216 Posted September 3, 2015 Yes I made a jig to help with coils. Good tip about locks and the canopy! Canute 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nirvana Posted September 3, 2015 Share #217 Posted September 3, 2015 Now that is a true brickstove, you better get the pig roasting as well. Canute and bebopsteve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share #218 Posted September 3, 2015 Now that would be awesome to put together a miniature pig on a rotating spit! With a miniature apple! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share #219 Posted September 3, 2015 The brick thing is so easy, I was thinking of a brick pedestal to display the finished model. Make a wood form and apply bricks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Seiler Posted September 4, 2015 Share #220 Posted September 4, 2015 You'll be scratch building next. Galley WASHINGTON is calling. <Steve...BUILD ME!!!, Build me!!!!> Canute and bebopsteve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share #221 Posted September 4, 2015 Scratch building? I think not yet! Canute 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share #222 Posted September 4, 2015 So for the large spar I used 35mm rope for the parrels and halyard. For the top spar should I go with the thinner 25mm? Any thoughts? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Seiler Posted September 4, 2015 Share #223 Posted September 4, 2015 When you say 'spar' do you mean 'yard'? I am looking at my PHILLY 1 right now and I cannot tell if the lifts for the upper yard are smaller than the lower. It appears so, but I need to wait until I check the plans to be sure. HOWEVER..... I would recommend you move the blocks for the upper lift lines further up the mast. From what I recall from the plans (and what I see from PHILLY 1) these blocks were too close to the yard. The whole set up didn't look right and in my opinion (as well as others) would not have allowed for proper lift of the yard. I think it should be 3/4" to an inch above where the yard is. Again, I will check my plans when I get home. bebopsteve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share #224 Posted September 4, 2015 Thanks Chuck. Yes the yard.. (terminology challenged). Also, in the manual it says to pin the yards to the mast. Is this a permanent pin? I wouldn't think one would actually glue the yard to the mast. I am a bit cautious as the plans seem to assume one has experience with rigging. Anyway thanks! Steve Chuck Seiler 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted September 4, 2015 Share #225 Posted September 4, 2015 Steve: Yep, they are referring to a permanent pin. The yard isn't all that heavy and pinning it to the mast allows the lifting rigging to be tightened so that it looks like the weight of the yard is pulling down against the rigging. A pin isn't seen and is easy to undo if needed - unlike glue. You can rely on the other rigging lines for downward pull w/o pinning. The nice thing is that you can check how you like it w/o the pin as long as you don't secure the control lines (as it tells you not to do until after the awning structure is complete) and if you are happy - fine. If not then you can pin the yards to the mast. Kurt bebopsteve, Chuck Seiler and Canute 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share #226 Posted September 4, 2015 Thanks Kurt! Did you use the same size rope for both the yards? (halyards) Thanks, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Seiler Posted September 5, 2015 Share #227 Posted September 5, 2015 Steve, I would say the lift lines for the upper yard is smaller than the lower yard. This is based on the fact that the associated blocks for the lower yard is 7mm while the upper yard is only 5mm. I pegged my yards into place using small wooden (bamboo) pegs, about 1mm in diameter. Since your model is twice as big, you have a bit more leeway. bebopsteve and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted September 5, 2015 Share #228 Posted September 5, 2015 I agree with Chuck's opinion on the line size - the blocks are smaller. I am sure I used the thinner line on the upper spar. Kurt Canute and bebopsteve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share #229 Posted September 5, 2015 Thanks Guys! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diajud Posted September 8, 2015 Share #230 Posted September 8, 2015 Hi Steve, I sumwhat have finished my Model Shipway's Philadelphia a couple of months ago. Lots of fun to build, Its also a good build to get into rigging as its pretty simple. I didn't like the cleats in the kit (way to modern) so I replaced them with home made wood cleats as were on the real boat. All I have to do now is find a 3 inch high figure to add a bit of scale, and of course a display case.-----------------good luck on your build bebopsteve and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canute Posted September 8, 2015 Share #231 Posted September 8, 2015 Check a model railroad shop that stock garden railway items. They may have people in 1/24 scale. The garden RRs are anything from 1/32 to 1/20 scale cars & locos. They use the same track gauge. Very confusing to us more conventional model railroaders. bebopsteve and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share #232 Posted September 9, 2015 Hi, Any pics of you Philadelphia? Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share #233 Posted September 23, 2015 Starting on the rigging..progressing pretty good.. dgbot, mtaylor, Ryland Craze and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share #234 Posted September 23, 2015 (edited) Another shot...coming together pretty good. The rigging is actually holding everything together better than I thought. This photo is before lines are tight. Edited September 23, 2015 by Steve.Y mtaylor, Canute, GuntherMT and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 26, 2015 Author Share #235 Posted September 26, 2015 Continuing with rigging.. Canute, GuntherMT and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 26, 2015 Author Share #236 Posted September 26, 2015 I used the rope and blocks from Syren.. Great stuff! Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 26, 2015 Author Share #237 Posted September 26, 2015 However, the port and starboard shrouds.. I am not really sure what they attach to. Any ideas? Chuck? (Thanks)!! mtaylor, Canute and Chuck Seiler 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 26, 2015 Author Share #238 Posted September 26, 2015 I found that the mast is very solid..without glue. So the rigging actually works! Kind cool! Canute 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Seiler Posted September 26, 2015 Share #239 Posted September 26, 2015 Steve, I'm not sure I understand the question. From your picture in post 235 it looks like your shrouds are already attached. The model is looking great!!! Next step....the awning assembly. Remember, it's not symmetric. It looks kind of cock-eyed...but that's what happens when army guys build boats...er, ahh...I mean.... Canute, bebopsteve and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopsteve Posted September 26, 2015 Author Share #240 Posted September 26, 2015 Thanks Chuck. I meant the topmast shrouds. The starboard ones look like they attach to top of ladder. Plans are not clear. mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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