HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set

[foxy]

Thanks guy's,' yep', on the mend.
 
Well with the lower shrouds done its to the tops we are.
 
Using Dafis etched parts and Heller deadeye's.
I have glued the deadeyes to the etched frames, no need to worry about size as there all the same,'phew'.





Note the hooks below, these are for the futtock shrouds, will attach ropes to these before hooking to the main frame of theDEs.

 

One other thing you may need to file the Heller tops to fit etched parts, Dafi does suggest gluing these in in his hints and tips.

Very good advise.

Frank. 

Edited September 30, 2015 by foxy

[JerseyCity Frankie]

Speaking of adding detail to the tops: I had used the kit supplied little plastic eyes (Part#40)  for the ringbolts on the after end of the Fore Top. This is where the lashing for the Main Topmast Stay is made off and it turns out this ringbolt takes a lot of tension, any motion of the mainmast focuses a lot of tension right at that eye and mine pulled right out, broken off at the neck. My advice is to use a loop of wire and secure it very well to the top and discard Part#40 here.

[foxy]

Thanks for the advice JCF.

 

Not using any of the plastic ring bolts(P40), but the use of wire at this point is!. 

 

'So thanks for that'.

 

 

Frank.

[foxy]

Well its to the tops I be going.
Removed the DE etched parts from Dafis  fret and found some of the deadeyes loose.


So after making sure all was fixed down ship shape I then filed the burrs off both ends of the etched parts.
Drilled out the holes in the tops so the etched futtock shrouds would push fit through the holes.


Left loose till later.

Then its six aside for the Fore and Main tops.


four aside for the Mizzen.


Now I know why I did not complete the ratlines yet, is most fiddly at this point to secure ropes etc to the belaying pins.


With that in mind and having Dafis etched motives for the fire buckets, its to that I am next working on.

.

More soon shipmates.

Frank. 

Edited October 4, 2015 by foxy

[dafi]

A great joy to follow this build. Not because of the etch you use, but because of what you make out of them!

 

Great job, Daniel

[foxy]

Thank you Daniel.

Tis to the fire buckets using dafis etched KG parts.

First how NOT to remove fire buckets from spru.

Note bad cuts to the rear of the buckets.
Use a proper cutting tool and leave a little to file to shape.

The KG etched parts were formed with round pliers.

Should look like this.


Twenty one are needed for the quarter deck, but a few extra will help later for the crew to carry maybe.


The buckets come in black plastic, but to make a difference I painted them leather(as new).
They were tarred inside and later outside.
'My choice'!!!!.

 

Frank   
 

Edited October 6, 2015 by foxy

[foxy]

Well its been a bit hard going, as I should have done the fire buckets earlier, anyone having a go at this should think on this.
Now having enuff KG etched crests(thanks to Daniel)I started thinking on how to place them with the shroud ropes done.

I added a strip of plastic from the tops left over part, stuck this behind to the top of the plastic rear bulkhead of the poop deck.

Then used plastic glue to hold buckets, later will add CA to the handles.





Later when all settled will paint handles and surrounding area black.

Next its on to the upper shroud ropes.
Used .63mm for the lower and for the upper will use .30mm black.

For both shrouds I will use .08mm for the ratlines.

Frank. 

[ronald305]

supper job on the Victory Frank 

        will read your build over and over untill I get this kit I have two questions 

     where did you buy the little lathe you used for the mast and also where did you get the wood planking for the 

     decks and what size are they, I will ask you more later thank you 

                               Ronald 

[foxy]

Thanks Lawrence, There are so many good builds here its a job to take them all in.

Yours is no exception. 

Hi Ronald.
 
The deck planking are 2mm and 3mm, mostly 2mm wide maple.
I got mine from Cornwall model boats(England), there 1'000 in lengths, but they cut them down to export.
 
The lathe is of German make and I believe I got this from Axmister tools in England. 
 
I am sure you could also get these in the States too.
 
Hope this helps.

Moving on a touch with the top shrouds.



Keeping them loose on the running rigging till all done, then its the stay's to tension up and then tighten up the shroud runners.



You could if you wanted to make all adjustable, but as this is a static model all will be fixed.

Frank. 

Edited October 27, 2015 by foxy

[foxy]

Thanks very much Lawrence, much better now thanks  .
 
Well have been busy of late with all the top ropes strung.



Left loose till main stay ropes have passed over mast/shroud.

Then tightened up.



With the main stay ropes in place.



One point is the main stay ropes to the bowsprit.
As all know they pass through the bowsprit and then attach to block and tackle.
For those doing this build, its advisable to add the blocks near the knights head before adding the netting and booms.
This will be a lot easier.
The blocks I used for this were of Syren manufacture and can move if ness.



Next its the stay ropes from masts to channels etc.

This is the sequence I am following for this static build.
Having good plans of the rigging helps, so far its standing rigging I am working on.

Thanks guys for all your imput and likes.

All the best Frank. 

[foxy]

One question on the last picture, this shows a raised part block on the sprit bow above the marine walk.

 

Looking at many pictures, there does not seem to be this item.

 

Can anyone help weather this needs removing or not.

 

What's its purpose if so.

 

Frank 

[dafi]

I think it is meant to be something like this :-)

 

The  fairlead saddles.

 

 

 

                                          #86                         

 

XXXDAn

Edited November 2, 2015 by dafi

[foxy]

Cheers for that Daniel, well can remove ok and will add your version.

Well its Organised Chaos at the moment with one side of the stay ropes done.

For the blocks I am using Syren 3mm and 2mm for the lesser ropes, with Dafis eyelets already positioned.
The main top.



Running down to the channel.



Some of the chaos on the deck.



The shrouds on the top masts are run through the top and left loose at the moment.





The tuther side is next with the blocks made up, so should be faster.

Frank. 

[ronald305]

Great job on the victory

may ask where did you get the

Photo etched parts gif the kit and

the wood planking and what size did you

Use

Ronald

[foxy]

Hi Ronald.
The photo etch comes from Dafis wonderful etched sets.
If you contact him I am sure he will help you.
Just hit on his sig and send a message.
As for the wood deck, well its 2mm and 3mm I used and came from Cornwall model boats.
Just type this in and you should be able to find there site.
I used maple wood for this build.
 
Moving on with the stay's done for standing rigging its time for the ratlines to be done.
 
I thought in this scale that if I tied them it would be oversize.
So the simple way seemed the best.
Just glue to the shrouds.



To save time and glue I did all the shrouds with three rows, then left to dry and cut off the excess.



This is time consuming but it works!!!.



One other thing I did was to move the Anchor rest forward between the first two chains, this allowed the anchor to sit right later.

Frank.  

Edited November 11, 2015 by foxy

[dgbot]

Your shrouds came out nice keep up the good work.

David B

[Blue Ensign]

Looks good on the photo's Frank, I think I used 0.1mm line for the ratlines but used a simple overhand knot which is less bulky that clove hitches given the 1:100 scale.

 

B.E.

[riverboat]

What a great!! build...... just loved what you did on the stove ( plus everything else )...... I'm a big fan of LifeColor too !

 

Frank

[foxy]

Thanks Frank, Mark.

Yes the stove was fun to work out and thats half the fun, ain't it.

Well moved on a tad with the overhanging shrouds(futtocks).



Used a small piece of brass rod and Dafis etched parts.



So as not to bore you I will finish this side and the other before more pictures.

Frank. 

[Dimitris71]

Hello Frank, just came through your build log.... and i have not much to say... I'm speechless ... AMAZING DETAILED WORK!!!! It's seems you've been very intent for every step you take throughout your perfect build... Well done!!

 

Kind Regards

Dimitris

[riverboat]

Very nice rigging skills !! 

 

Frank

[ronald305]

Hi Foxy

    I went to the web site where you got your little lathe couldn't find yours would you know the

       model number  wasn't able to find one in the states thank you

                           Ronald  

[ronald305]

Hi Foxy  I have another question for you would you have the paint list for this kit since it is in French  or would it be the same paint colors

    for all Victory kits rather it's a big kit  or small

                                Ronald

[foxy]

Hi Ronald.
 
The Paints I am using are APS9014W HMS Victory Set.
 
These are water based and very good, you get all the colours needed for this ship.
I used a primer first on the plastic hull and then sprayed the colours needed.
 
I got these from Cornwall Model Boats Ltd
Unit 4D, Highfield Rd Ind Est.
Camelford. 
Cornwall.
PL32 9RA
United Kingdom.
Phone- 044-01840211009
I am not sure if the first three numbers are right, so maybe check these when phoning from the states.
 
I also use Life color water based paints for this project.
 
For the Lathe.
Its a Proxxon- DB 250.
They do a fantastic range of tools that are use full for modeling.
 
Frank. 
 
Hope this helps you find what your looking for.

Two more pictures of the hanging(futtocks)shrouds.
Foremast

Mizzen mast.

Some tidying up to do, then other side.

Thanks again folks for all your Interest, most appreciated.

Frank. 

Edited November 19, 2015 by foxy

[ronald305]

OK Thanks  Foxy

                Ronald

[ronald305]

Hi Frank

    I was wondering and didn't about till today could the Unimat Lathe work for the job required

     because I have a Unimat 3 it's stored away and it still works

                         Ronald

[ronald305]

Hi Frank

      besides the Lathe question  which I still want to know for future builds, is it possible to get the realism and the affect you are putting in the Heller without the extras as in out of box category for now incase I'm unable to afford the photo etch set and resin, But I will try to

 get the extras for the kit

                                        Ronald

[foxy]

Hi Ronald.
 
Well as for getting a good representation of this ship from OOB, its up to the modeler.
 
I started this project because of the challenge in producing all three fighting decks with there detail.
 
After seeing Daniels  etched/resin set and liking scratch building, I decided to take the plunge.
 
Having little or no experience of sailing ships I purchased some books after chatting with more experienced ship builders.
It is from this that I have got so far in the build.
 
Weather it be larger scales it means more detail.
I started with the Airfix 180 scale Victory.



From that experience I went onto the bigger 1/100 Heller ship.
I messed around with all sorts on that earlier build.
Thus made a diorama with it in the end.








So what I am trying to show is anything is possible.

Just have ago.

You would of course be better with an English speaking plans, but if you have some books, then they will help out.

I hope this helps you in deciding which way to go.

Frank. 

[ronald305]

thanks Frank

  I tried the 1/180 scale airfix kit and was doing fine until I got to the  part where I tried to put the top deck on with out breaking off one or two columns off or a cannon off it's carriage it was a disaster, all that time I put in to that kit wasted the kit fortunately  was free so  if I do the 1/180 scale kit again, I will need help from you and everyone on this forum that built the airfix Victory successfully especially when It will  come to part when I have to install the top deck I tried to get help from Airfix triburte forum  but one fellow no names mention gives me a hard time never nice me so I'm only going to come here for help from now on, so if you can remember that build I would appreciate your building skills on that kit

                        Ronald

Edited November 22, 2015 by ronald305

[Old Collingwood]

This is the friendliest, most helpful site I have ever used so you  will only ever get help on here not abuse...

 

OC