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General Scroll Saw use


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I saw where one of our members got a steal on a Dewalt.  I too looked at a new one, but it was $400 - 500 and did not want to spend that much.  I also went to the Wood Crafters store locally, but theirs were also too expensive for my budget.  I browsed the Internet some more and found a Craftsman for $120 and after checking the specifications, thought it would work well for model ship building.

The main problem I have with the saw is the hole in the table where the blade passes is too big to work with parts made for smaller ships.  I was able to rig a piece of wood with a small hole that the blade can pass through and that helped a little.

 

I am wondering about the Dewalt and other scroll saws:  Do they have smaller holes in the table, and are they able to handle smaller pieces?

 

Thanks

Current Build:       Model Shipways MS2015 - Fair American Kit bash

Previous Build:     J-Class Endeavor

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Here is what was done to my Ryobi to solve the problem - and it is adaptable to any scroll saw.  A piece of plexiglass was cut to size (effectively enlarged the table size) and a small clearance hole was made in the center for the blade.  It is permanently mounted - but removable - with flat head machine screws.  One might have to tap the saw's table top but as most are aluminum this isn't a big problem - or the plexiglass can be attached with double sided tape.  The protective paper was left on the underside of the plexiglass to brighten up the top and provide contrast to the piece being cut.  The plexiglass is a very smooth surface and cuts down on resistance to moving the subject.

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Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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I have a Craftsman, probably 20-25 years old.  I put a 1/8" Masonite table on it but instead of drilling a hole I used the scroll saw to cut a slot from the back until the table was in place.  Then I used flat head screws to hold it in place.  The opening around the blade is the saw width which is great.  The drawback, which I'm willing to live with, is I have to remove the top to change blades.

 

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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Here's what I do to make a zero clearance insert...  it's a piece of scrap plywood close to the thickness of the lip inside the hole.  I level it and bring it up to the table level using tape on the bottom of the insert.

 

I really need to make a new one for these particular blades but it works for the parts I'm cutting.  The hole was originally drilled to take a larger pin-type blade.

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Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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One big help to me was a book I bought.   The Big Book of Scroll Saw Woodworking from the publishers of Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts Magazine.  ISBN  978-1-56523-426-0.  The first 17 pages are gold mine of info on blades and setting up the saw. 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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kurtvd19,

Thanks for the plexi info.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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