Jump to content

Best way To install gudgeons and pintles and the rudder?


Recommended Posts

I am at the stage of installing the rudder.  Ship is the Lively from the Lumberyard.  The fittings are very flexible and I am not sure what is the best way to proceed.  Do you install gudgeon first, then mach up the rudder or do you glue both together and attach?  Also, what is the best adhesive? Epoxy, CA, etc.

The fittings are blackened and the hull is painted and poly varnished.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahoy JD 

 

Jack Tar has a great trick here 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1579-bluenose-by-jack-tar-model-shipways-scale-1100/?p=66207

Edited by JPett

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

J

If you want the rudder to be able to move, you will need to make working "hinges"  The rudder can be completed first then the hull straps with the gudgeons temporarily  tacked to the pintles on the rudder and then held to the hull to mark hull strap locations.   I would not use glue as you will be gluing to the varnish, not the wood.  Or, scrape off the paint and varnish to expose the wood.   I  prefer to "bolt" the straps with tiny brads.

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm ...  I am on that stage too, and banging my head a bit ... I also prefer "bolting" but hinges have to be 1,5-2mm wide only in scale ... working under magnifier ... soldering under magnifier ... wish me luck as I am something like beginner  

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nenad,

 I have the magnifier on more than off these days.    Silver soldering and drilling and  bolting 2 mm is not bad so bad.  1mm, now that is getting more difficult!  You can make bolts with 0.010 brass wire which is 1/2" at 1:48.  Even with 1mm, there is plenty of room for this size "bolt".

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just today I make tests with 2mm wide piece and hole of 1mm.

 

post-4738-0-77500300-1409337351_thumb.jpg

 

My "mentor" ( R.Vlahovic World champ in modeling 2014 in Bulgaria) poke me on my ribs and  forced me to make them as on drawings (1,5 mm wide with holes of 0,5 mm) ...

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all for the solid advice.  I am going to do the brads/brass nails with some adhesive.  I was going to just put them in shallow holes for effect, but now will use them in their structural intentions.  The wire idea is good also, but will try this way first

 

JD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just a quick update to the original question for those weighing the different option.  I drilled "bolt" hole on the straps and tacked the gudgeons first to the roughened hull with the gel CA.  I then drilled shallow holes and inserted cut down brass spikes also with CA..  I fit the middle set first, both gudgeon and pintel, then the rest.  The only thing I would do on my next build would be to drill and fit them before blackening the metal.  I had many smudges which forced repainting, but not too bad.  Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...