tppytel Posted August 30, 2014 Share #1 Posted August 30, 2014 I am a complete newbie to model ship building. I've built some plastic models long ago, have painted gaming miniatures and terrain to a good standard, and have some basic carpentry and woodworking skills and tools, so blending all that together into model ship building seems approachable. For my first build, I wanted something small and simple - small so that I could be absolutely certain I'd complete it in a reasonable time, and simple so that I could concentrate on learning the basic skills well. Some web searching brought me here and also turned up a detailed tutorial on building Midwest's Flattie at themodelshipwright.com. Even though that tutorial is basically just an illustration of following the directions, it's nice to have a few extra pictures and tips. I also attended college in Annapolis (St. John's) and have spent some time on the waterways of the area, so the little Flattie speaks to me a bit. So, the Chesapeake Flattie it is! Again, a big reason for going with a small model is to focus on a doing an excellent job of the basics. So I'm especially appreciative of suggestions for improving my technique for the future. Let's get to it... here she is, fresh from Amazon: I lay the parts out for an inventory. Everything is here, and there are no obvious miscuts or damage. I read through the first few pages of instructions thoroughly at this point, and skim the rest. Nothing too surprising or intimidating here, and I'm comfortable with the flow of the build and how the various parts should fit together. Very newbie-friendly. I cut out the frames carefully, sand the edges lightly, and do a quick dry fit and inspection: Some problems show up right away. Frame F4's slot is too narrow to slide on. Frame F3's slot is too wide and allows the frame to wobble. Frame F1 rides a bit too high above the top of the keel... The quality of the die-cuts varies. Some frames are fine, but some are clearly asymmetric. F4 is the worst of the bunch - though the pic is crooked too, you can see the cuts at the bottom clearly don't match. All of these issues are resolved easily enough with a little time, either taking off extra wood with a needle file or adding a tiny shim with CA glue and filing that down. After those adjustments, the frames match the plans well and don't show any obvious asymmetries when examined against the grid on my cutting mat. (Link to a future post about Mastini's method.) I cut the square stripwood according to the plans, trace the extended lines from the plans onto the frames, glue them in place with wood glue (applied with a paintbrush), and clamp with a micro-clamp to dry: The frames prepped to go: They look pretty good. You can see a jaggie at the bottom of F4 - I didn't cut the shim to the full length of the edge because it was only the outside corner that was short. I should have just done the whole length, but I think this will be fine. F1 fits the keel correctly now: The braces on F3 and F4 are close, but not quite flush with the keel where the cabin floor will sit: The brace for F4 just needed to be glued a tiny bit higher, but I wasn't seeing clearly at the time how the brace was going to fit with the keel. The F3 brace, on the other hand, is dead flush with the side slots, but the die cuts for those slots don't quite match up with the center one. I could try to clean this up by sanding down the keel line between those frames, or by using a shim to shorten the center frame slots. Bbut I'm not sure if it's going to matter or if that could throw off the fit of any other pieces. Suggestions welcome. That's all for now. I probably won't be able to get back to building until next weekend. johncole and ccoyle 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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