peewee Posted October 4, 2014 Share #1 Posted October 4, 2014 Hi, After selling my large WM-18 mill I am in the market for a more practical size machine for modelling. I have to confess that I also used my mill as my drill press to save space and costs. My question is whether the following is practical? Purchase the Proxxon http://www.satberlin.de/en/PROXXON-machines/Table-top-tools/PROXXON-Bench-drill-press-TBH-NO-28124 With compound table http://www.satberlin.de/en/PROXXON-machines//PROXXON-Die-cast-aluminium-compound-table-KT-150-NO-20150 or would the MF70 mill be better http://www.satberlin.de/en/PROXXON-machines/Table-top-tools/PROXXON-MICRO-miller-MF-70-NO-27110 The tools would only be used for milling wood and very small metal items as needed. My issue is whether the drill press could handle the lateral force? Into the mix could also be http://www.satberlin.de/en/PROXXON-machines//PROXXON-Mill/drill-system-BFW-40/E-with-controller-NO-20165 any thoughts from experience? regards ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornet Posted October 4, 2014 Share #2 Posted October 4, 2014 (edited) I have the proxxon TMB 220 which runs up to 8500 rpm. I have the KT 70 attached. Great little drill press but Still not quick enough I think. Brian is right, go with the MF 70 it runs at up to 20 000 rpm. Edited October 4, 2014 by hornet Brian the extraordinaire 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponto Posted October 4, 2014 Share #3 Posted October 4, 2014 Just received my MF-70 yesterday through Amazon after struggling with the same questions....there are many ways to accomplish any task related to this hobby but the mill will certainly add a degree of accuracy to many of them. I saw some You Tube videos with the unit being automated through a connection with a computer...something I will definately look into! JP Brian the extraordinaire 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peewee Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share #4 Posted October 4, 2014 cheers all, looks like a clear result on the MF70. therefore the final piece of the puzzle i is it any good as a drill press? i think i already know the answer to this one, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornet Posted October 4, 2014 Share #5 Posted October 4, 2014 FYI - I was actually talking with an Australian distributor for proxxon yesterday. Had to pick up a couple of new 'toys'. The MF 70 has just been upgraded and is now equipped with step motors instead of hand wheels ( CNC ready) . May be worth a look???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peewee Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share #6 Posted October 4, 2014 interesting indeed http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27112.php?list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornet Posted October 5, 2014 Share #7 Posted October 5, 2014 Time to upgrade Brian???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornet Posted October 5, 2014 Share #8 Posted October 5, 2014 I'd have to agree. I have the KT 70 compound table on my TMB 200 drill press. The hand wheels would be much easier to adjust if they were 50% bigger. Brian the extraordinaire 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornet Posted October 5, 2014 Share #9 Posted October 5, 2014 There is enough clearance to do the same thing on the drill press as well. Brian the extraordinaire 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeaidanh Posted October 5, 2014 Share #10 Posted October 5, 2014 Brian, I hope you will post details of your solution when you find it. I would be very interested. Mike. Brian the extraordinaire 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thibaultron Posted October 5, 2014 Share #11 Posted October 5, 2014 Drill presses are not setup to handle the lateral forces, nor are the drill chucks or chuck to spindle attachments designed for the end mills tendency to pull downward into the work piece. Get the real mill. Been there done that, with larger pieces. hornet and michael mott 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMBROOK Posted October 5, 2014 Share #12 Posted October 5, 2014 If contemplating CNC control for your MF70,check out this German company,offering conversion kits and also lots of other parts for this miller. http://www.usovo.de/shop/CNC-Machines-accessories/CNC-Conversion-kits-Proxxon/Conversion-kit-for-Proxxon-MF70-into-MF70-CNC::274.html?language=en&MODsid=7ftmjahdc2u9hv1rue00e2tbq3 Kind Regards Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeaidanh Posted October 5, 2014 Share #13 Posted October 5, 2014 Though not a complete solution increasing the diameter of the finger spindles on the wheels seems to improve sensitivity. I just wrapped some tape onto the spindles to double their diameter for testing purposes. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q A's Revenge Posted October 5, 2014 Share #14 Posted October 5, 2014 Brian, I hope you will post details of your solution when you find it. I would be very interested. Mike. Do a search for hand wheel with revolving handle on the net, dozens of companies make these. It may take some time to find the size you need but I'm sure someone out there will make something suitable. Don, Brian the extraordinaire and mikeaidanh 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponto Posted October 5, 2014 Share #15 Posted October 5, 2014 If contemplating CNC control for your MF70,check out this German company,offering conversion kits and also lots of other parts for this miller. http://www.usovo.de/shop/CNC-Machines-accessories/CNC-Conversion-kits-Proxxon/Conversion-kit-for-Proxxon-MF70-into-MF70-CNC::274.html?language=en&MODsid=7ftmjahdc2u9hv1rue00e2tbq3 Kind Regards Nigel Nice,.... and just as I feared....with any hardware purchase, the accessories one may accumulate will likely surpass the cost of the original investment ---LOL--- the software to run the CNC enhancement is not even included with the hardware----a pricey adventure me thinks--- JP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q A's Revenge Posted October 6, 2014 Share #16 Posted October 6, 2014 Looking at Brian's picture again I can't tell if the calibrated collar is a separate part or integral with the hand wheel? If it's integral then another solution may be required. I'd probably turn a piece of alloy and make a recess 35mm diameter so it could be slipped over the existing hand wheel and locked in place with a socket (grub) screw. It may be possible to modify an existing product in a similar way but would of course require the use of a lathe. In both cases you'd need to remove the rotating handle from the old handwheel. Brian the extraordinaire and hornet 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMBROOK Posted October 6, 2014 Share #17 Posted October 6, 2014 I think the easiest solution for the MF70 would be to remove the handle from the handwheel and fit it to a larger disc.Then glue the disc to the handwheel.However,having machined pieces recently that overhang the table,whilst they may be enough clearance,it would be nigh on impossible to turn a larger diameter handwheel in this instance.I struggled with the standard setup.The only other option would be to pack the workpiece up,but then you reduce the height capacity. Kind Regards Nigel hornet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q A's Revenge Posted October 7, 2014 Share #18 Posted October 7, 2014 (edited) Acrylic is quite brittle Brian. Polycarbonate sheet would be better. Other suitable common plastics are Nylon or PVC. Acetal is often sold as an "engineering" plastic as it can be machined to quite close tolerances but I've seen this stuff snap under modest load as well. If I was going to have someone make one up for me though I'd go for Aluminium Alloy. There is another option if you can drill and tap a couple of holes in the existing handwheel, and that's to bolt a metal strap across it with a rotating handle on it. Edited October 7, 2014 by Q A's Revenge hornet and jud 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeaidanh Posted October 7, 2014 Share #19 Posted October 7, 2014 Nigel, I like your approach. As you probably know there are some heavy duty double sided tapes available these days so it may not be necessary to look beyond them for a fix and this would allow reversion to the original state if a particular job required full clearance. Mike. NMBROOK 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtropp Posted October 10, 2014 Share #20 Posted October 10, 2014 A question about the stepper motors mentioned above. Do they have to be used with cnc computer or can they be used manually. I am not ready to go into a learning cycle for CNC but would like to be able to move/adjust the x-y-z axis using power vs. cranking by hand. Thus far I have not found a solution. I would like to be able to set the power feed to specific x-y-z motions and depths, perhaps with some repeatability. For instance, a set up like that would have helped when drilling pin holes for a copper plating stamp I recently made. I appreciate any thoughts. Richard Ponto 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyshipwright Posted October 10, 2014 Share #21 Posted October 10, 2014 (edited) Yes I do believe that Sheerline is well worth the cost and enjoy ever minute I get to use mine. Tons of extra to. Gary Edited October 10, 2014 by garyshipwright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtropp Posted October 10, 2014 Share #22 Posted October 10, 2014 (edited) There are a number of threads about this topic in this forum. One that might be helpful is called "milling machine" and was last used in Nov of 2013. One difference is that the Sherline is known for working both metal and wood parts. I am under the impression that the MF70 may be for wood only. ( I would appreciate someone who owns one chiming in.) Another difference is the range of accessories available for the Sherline. These are important if you are going to do more than just basic woodwork. An additional difference, and an important one, is the highest speed each can attain. The MF70 is listed at 20,000 RPM while the top speed of the Sherline (standard unit) is about 2,800 RPM. Big difference... but, there is a split opinion among the users. Some say you need the higher speed when working wood. Others say that you don't, just feed the piece slower. I have an MM micro mill that has specs similar to the Sherline's and I have not had any problems with splitting etc. That said I not used a high speed wood mill so cannot give a hands on comparison. I would be interested in hearing from those who have used both machines. Richard Edited October 10, 2014 by rtropp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPett Posted October 12, 2014 Share #23 Posted October 12, 2014 Ahoy Brian I do not have the mill but do have the same XY table on my Vanda lay set up. I was thinking of having the outside of the wheel knurled so you could grip it and turn them with your fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtropp Posted October 12, 2014 Share #24 Posted October 12, 2014 Brian, What speeds do you use on brass or aluminum? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin P. Posted December 5, 2014 Share #25 Posted December 5, 2014 I have the Proxxon MF 70 and its very nicely made. I also purchased their pantograph attachment. The admiral sent down a memo that Ill be receiving the MF 70 for Christmas... What is the pantograph attachment? Does it go by another name? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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