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I'm starting building this and before I get too far have a couple of queries.

 

Firstly - mast taper. All the instructions say is to "sand down to give them a conical shape at one end" . This end has a 2 mm shaped dowel attached to it. So do I just effectively taper the last centimetre, gently taper from the foot of the mast or start the taper at some other point. The finished boat illustration seems to taper from about 2/3rds upwards. Does this als apply to the bowsprit? I assume the booms don't taper at all.

 

Second point is the rowlocks - these appear as a single pin when constructed, this to me is mechanically unsound as it would not secure the oar when in use.

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This photo clearly shows what they feel is correct. 

 

Any comments, hints, advice gratefully received.

 

Rick

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Rick,

I apologize if this comes out badly, but there seems to be a couple mistakes in this kit designed boat from what I can see in the photo.

 

There would not be belaying pins as shown, but rather thole pins to keep the oars from sliding forward or aft or space between splash boards' supports.  Also, if the boat was single banked (one rower per thwart), the thole pins would not be directly across from each other port and starboard but would alternate for thwart to thwart.  If it was double banked (two rowers sitting side by side on a single thwart) there would be thole pins on each side in line with each.  Double banked boats were the largest and usually found on much larger ships than the Endeavor.  My guess is that it was a single banked boat.  

 Most long boats used one mast, although some did have more than one. I have some doubts that there would be two on a long boat for Endeavor but have no hard evidence to the contrary.

There are no frames showing in the model.  They would be pretty much exposed.

The stem is much to high.

The planking does not look at all right.

The mast would taper as shown on the attached as well as towards the top.  I suspect all the other spars/sprit, etc. would taper as well, but I may be wrong and some one else can confirm or correct.

The attached are from Lavery's Arming and Fitting 1600-1815

Allan

 

 

 

 

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PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Attached are some photos of a long boat model from NMM that may be of help.   Based on the locations of the tholes, it is probably a double banked boat.  You may want to take a look at 18th century long boat build forum here at MSW for lots more details

 

Allan

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PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Thanks for the assist - my knowledge of 18th century boats is practically nil but even after a single read through the instructions I felt that some items just weren't correct. I've already ignored their planking "instructions" and started work based on the "Beginners guide" here. I'l also go through the 18th century longboat build and use that as a base for the model. Pity they can't get it correct, it's my first attempt at wooden ship modelling and it would be nice to have had a little more confidence in the kit.

 

Rick

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Rick,

That is why many builders like to scratch build.  The biggest problem with scratch building though is that there is no one to blame for mistakes!

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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