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HM Cutter Alert 1777 by catopower – FINISHED - Shipyard - 1/96 scale - CARD


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Ken,

 

The parts I'm having the issue are unprinted, thick laser cut cardstock. That's what Druxey's replying to. I'll be priming both sides.

 

Actually, I regularly have to paint over printed parts. The paint I'm using, the stuff that Shipyard sells, is pretty transparent, which works out kind of nice, unless you're trying to hide some flaw. 

Clare Hess

He's a -> "HE"

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Thanks for letting me know about your experience of blackening, Clare. I had a chuckle of sympathy when you described how you began to feel more confident once you started up again. I have the same experience with each new step of the model. At first I believe I simply can't do it. Then I start thinking how I might do it. Then I experiment and find I can do an approximation of what I'm attempting. Then with a bit more practice I find it actually looks ok. Then I start worrying about the next step and start all over again!

 

Tony

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Tony, that's exactly it. You almost have to build with your eyes closed so you can't see what's coming at you next  :)

 

I'm on a roll at the moment it seems. I decided to make a simple sliding type hatch cover for the wardroom companionway. At 1/96 it doesn't have to be that sophisticated. Needed planking, so I printed out 0.25pt lines 1/16" apart. I'm using Adobe Illustrator for a number of other tasks, so it was easy enough to fire it up and make the pattern. I'll probably add some kind of handle, either bent wire or a simple block type handle from paper. The completed piece was painted and set into place.

 

I also found an old screen in the garage. It turns out that the mesh is the exact size I need for the mullion pattern for the companion way over the captain's cabin. I pulled out a bottle of canopy glue, which I bought for another project, but didn't like the way it worked. For this one and the small glass panes, it worked great – Just squeezed a little out to fill in all the holes in the piece of screen material. Once dried it looked perfect, so I cut down to the exact size I needed and dropped it into place.

 

Lastly, I cleaned up the deck pumps after adding the "iron bands". I decided to give them natural wood looking handles instead of leaving them their printed color, which was red.

 

 

The skylight for the captain's cabin ready to trim and install.

post-693-0-28373800-1429581407_thumb.jpg

 

 

Everything in place. The deck pumps were quite a challenge and I'm REALLY glad they're done. I will be burning incense and making offerings to the god of thin CA glue tonight. Also visible is the installed skylight and sliding hatch cover forward of that.

post-693-0-61771300-1429581430_thumb.jpg

 

 

Small accomplishment here was adding the stern timberheads. You probably can't see it so well in the photo, but the rudder is also mounted.

post-693-0-27591600-1429581564_thumb.jpg

 

 

So, what's next? Good question. I have no idea. Time to look at the kit drawings and get intimidated back into seclusion... But, I'm thinking about cannon barrels (make them from paper or buy or turn them?), deadeyes and chainplates, the taffrail at the stern, and the windlass assembly.

 

Oh, and I noticed that the AOTS book shows two ships boats: A 16' longboat and an 18' cutter. Don't know where these would go, but I also found that the HMS Mercury parts I'm using includes a boat that's just about 16' long. I'll look at the details of that and see if it might be useable. Not knowing where to put it, I would probably mount it as in tow behind the ship. That is, IF I decide to try building it – It seems like a whole project by itself.

 

Clare

Clare Hess

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The (automotive) primer is solvent based, so that paper or card is not affected by moisture, and a waterproof coating results.

Edited by druxey

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Ken: Yes, I'd treat both sides of the pieces as insurance, even if one side is not to be painted. I assumed that a part to be painted would mean hiding the printed surface. I suppose one could use a clear matt acrylic spray (carefully!) if the paintwork was to be transparent, but I've never tried this myself.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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I have been building in card for some years and have a vast collection of kits.  Shipyard and HMV are my fav's  not counting GMP.  I have also ordered numerous times from GMP and have never had a issue one with them.  Sometimes it seems like 2 wks and you have and then again it might take 4 weeks,  You just have to be patient when ordering.  I try to make mine pretty large when ordering to keep the shipping down per month.

I like the paint that comes w/Shipyard kits, it is a water base gauche paint.  This translates into a medium that one can layer to get many variations of the color and effects.  However, it is not a easy paint to use and takes a bit of practice to get down.  Looks to me, you have mastered it well.  One of the down sides is this is a water base paint and water and card are not friendly.  Here is a tip I learned from modelers from Poland, clear base then paint.  I use good ole model airplane dope for this.  Another way is Future Floor Polish.  Once all is dry and ready, you will find you are not plagued with raised or swelled card.

Hope this has helped.  I also seal all my paint w/sealer from Hobby Lobby.  The stuff that protects your paint job from UV that artistes' use to protect the paintings from sunlight.  Look forward to more of your build.  You fired me up to get out a project I started some time ago..........Santa Maria, Shipyard, all laser cut kit.   

Edited by Ship Shape

Wherever I am at...........there I am

 

KARTONIST in the making.......... B)

 

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Druxey, thanks for the advice. Today, I went right out and bought a can of primer and started spraying everything in site! Well, all the card stock parts that I have issues with anyway... 

 

ShipShape, thanks for the tips. I've actually starting thinking of using the artist's protective spray on stuff on the pre-printed parts. I've got some on-hand from old projects, but I actually don't have any issues with the thin printed paper as that paper is coated.

 

In any case, I'm looking forward to seeing that Santa Maria build moving forward again!

 

Clare

Clare Hess

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  • 2 weeks later...

For anyone interested. The HMS Alert 1/96th "kit" is presently being offered on Ebay. Item 111603301795, for about $40 with shipping. I just bought one and wanted to pass on the information.

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Hi Ron,

 

Thanks for the info. Ebay is always a comfortable way to buy things from overseas. It's a little more, but is probably beats checking the dollar to zloty exchange rates to make sure you're getting a good deal.

 

Looks like that seller has a few of these. Are you going to be starting a build soon? Hurry up so you can show me how to put this thing together!

 

Clare

Clare Hess

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This week, I decided to push ahead and make some more progress. There are so many tiny pieces to cut out!

 

I decided to work on the windlass as that seemed like a good project goal. I got a little ways along and a tiny piece of paper with a bunch of parts on it went missing. I searched high and low, swearing I had just seen it hours before. Next morning, I see it on the armrest of my chair. I must have leaned on it and it stuck to my elbow and got deposited on the chair! I've never had that kind of problem with wooden ship model kit parts. 

 

Well, pressing ahead with my report here. I finished the main part of the windlass barrel, which consisted of approximately 31 parts... A 1/96-scale windlass barrel with 31 parts! Am I crazy? Well... maybe. It was a daunting task, but it actually went by fairly quickly and it IS pretty cool that I only needed scissors and knife and some glue...

 

 

Here's part of the barrel under construction and some other parts too. Sorry about the short depth of field on the macro focus.

post-693-0-59439700-1430450227_thumb.jpg

 

When you build something, you gotta try it for size on the model immediately. It's a rule. The barrel came out just a tad long, which wouldn't be a problem except that the deck has thin black outlines where the bitts are expected to fit in place. These will show, but the lines won't be very noticeable when it's all done.

post-693-0-15375700-1430450302_thumb.jpg

 

 

Here's a closeup of the completed windlass barrel assembly before cleaning it up.

post-693-0-15317100-1430450482_thumb.jpg

 

 

And one of the same assembly after some touch-up painting. Again, I'm using the paints sold by Shipyard, which is fairly opaque, so I could paint it on without losing the black printed details.

post-693-0-96249400-1430450629_thumb.jpg

 

 

Here's another view of the skylight, gratings and hatch I made last time. I went back and added a piece of fine gauge wire for the handle on the sliding hatch.

post-693-0-56888900-1430450717_thumb.jpg

 

 

I was on a roll, so why stop? I'd cut mast hoops from brass tubing on my last model and thought about doing the same for the Alert. In the end, I decided to make my own mast hoops from a piece of a brown paper bag. I did this for another model years ago and it worked out great. So, I thought I'd refresh the skill.

 

I used a piece of brass tubing slightly larger than the diameter of the mast and wrapped the paper around it, applying white glue to it throughout the process. Once dry, I used a razor blade to cut thin rings off. It's been a long time since I've done this, and it took many tries to get even, thin slices. But, I managed to get enough for my purposes.

post-693-0-66388800-1430451377_thumb.jpg

 

 

So, what did I learn in paper ship modeling school this week? There are a lot of frickin' little frickin' tiny little frickin' pieces that have be cut. The hardest part is really looking at the work ahead. Yeah, it's like ship modeling that way. But, once you start, all you have to do is cut, cut, cut and cut and cut and then glue. As long as you keep your head down and don't stop to count how many more pieces you need to cut, projects finish up pretty quickly.

 

Clare

Clare Hess

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Interesting about the US eBay. I looked it up for the UK and it's on the UK eBay site too, ref 311275446173, for £21.97 plus £4.35 p&p in the UK.

 

Tony

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No it will be a little while before I start on the Alert. I am expanding my shop, and until that is finished, I'm only working on a few plastic models. about 1/2 my shop is electrified and insulated. Now I'm finishing the rest, and I can barely move in the original 1/2, as everything from both halves is piled in it.

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Ha!  Love the story about the paper sticking to your elbow.  The tips on my fine-point tweezers, with which I do most of my fiddly bits work, have a bad tendency to suddenly slip past each other while grasping tiny parts, the result being tiny parts flung into the Great Void.  It happened again this week after I had already applied glue to the tiny part.  I searched all over for it, to no avail, so I had to scratch-build a replacement part.  I found the original hours later - stuck to the front of my t-shirt.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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Ron, you don't need a shop for this model, just a cutting mat, knife with blades, a little glue, good desk lamp and 5 bottles of Visine.  :)

An Optivisor or similar magnification device would be nice, too. Unless you're 20 years old with 20/05 vision. Those of us with a case of Too Many Birthdays (TMB) will require such a device. :rolleyes:

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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True, but my house has several cats, who like to "help", so I do all my modeling in the shop. The workbench presently has 3 plastic models in progress (I'm trying different methods to simulate the look of wood on the plastic, for them). Also the reconstruction of a 144th scale Type V sub with interior that I built, admitidly from a prepainted kit, that fell and broke at the seams. Trying to locate the deck piece for the bow now. If I can't find it, I have another kit I can raid, but do not wish to ruin a complete kit for that. It is one of the Takara series kits (came in I think 7 boxes). I had to buy a box of 2 complete kits to get it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's kind of funny writing a paper model build log. It's all about cutting some paper, gluing paper and painting parts. And then in the next step, cut paper, glue paper, paint parts. But then it gets difficult: cut paper more carefully, glue paper very carefully, and with a very steady hand, paint parts.

 

Okay, there's more to it than that, but not much to report except basic progress.

 

 

post-693-0-67677300-1431666191_thumb.jpg

 

I assembled and added what Anatomy of the Ship calls the jeer bits. I couldn't quite gather what the instruction sheet was trying to indicate regarding the windlass handles. The kit includes tiny paper pieces that I would never be able to make use of, so I just used some 26 gauge black annealed steel wire.

 

 

post-693-0-01748800-1431666162_thumb.jpg

 

I also assembled the bowsprit bitts. Somehow the space between the bitts came out the right size to fit the heel of the bowsprit. That, I made from birch dowel. I wanted a square-stock piece, but all I had were dowels. Since the bowsprit was to be 3/16" diameter, I had to work backwards and do a bit of math in order to determine the width of dowel I'd need to start with since the diameter had to equal the widest cross-section of the square heel of the bowsprit.

 

 

post-693-0-17033900-1431666179_thumb.jpg

 

Here's another view of the bowsprit bitts and main windlass. Both are actually only temporarily in place, not glued. For all the bitts, I've embedded straight pins into them for strength.

 

 

post-693-0-28096900-1431666207_thumb.jpg

 

Here's a view of the mast with mast hoops. I used a small piece of blue painter's tape to keep from losing the hoops. 

Edited by catopower

Clare Hess

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  • 2 months later...

I realized that I hadn't posted any updates on HMS Alert (HM Cutter Alert) in some time. Also, I notice that I haven't posted an overall shot of the project. Time to remedy the situation. The project is still one of those "in the background" projects, as I've got other projects that have a much higher priority. I only work on the model in between other work, so it's slow progress.

 

Most recent work on it includes working on the yards, boom and gaff. But, the big project was making the gun carriages. There are a dozen in all. Because of large amount of small detail pieces, I'd found that the laser cut add-on detail part set that I used for the gratings also had cannon carriages of about the same size. So, I used those to make mine. I've had to learn how to work with the laser-cut cardboard and still working on figuring out best practices. The laser-cut cardboard is a lot softer than the paper parts I build up using layers of printer paper, which is a lot denser in the end. So far, I've just found I have to be a lot more careful with the cardboard. But, it helps to hit with some CA so that it stiffens up. Makes it easier to cut.

 

post-693-0-39670600-1438629783_thumb.jpg

 

Now, I just have to decide what I want to do about the cannon barrels. I rolled them up, but they're so small, I managed to get them a little gluey and spoiled some of the pre-printing on them. I'll probably have to just paint them black. But, each barrel also has a round muzzle pieces and 3 round cascabel pieces. More really tiny round parts! One option has been to, at minimum, turn a master in brass and just cast them. I'd have to do the same with the swivels. 

 

Oh wait, I'd better get back to one of those priority projects! :0)

 

 

In the meantime, here's a view of the model as it sits on my shelf awaiting the next steps...

 

post-693-0-24213100-1438629758_thumb.jpg

 

Clare

Clare Hess

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  • 4 weeks later...

Have been too busy with projects that are "due" to do much here. But, working with swivel guns on one model, I came to discover that these 1/4" scale swivel guns from Syren Ship Model Company were the perfect size for the cannon barrels for this 1/8" scale model of the Alert. Anyway, the look visually correct and they look nice – a lot nicer than my rolled up paper barrels were looking. Also, saves me from having to turn or cast my own. So, why not?

 

The brass barrel actually looks really nice, but I'll probably blacken them. 

 

post-693-0-49965200-1440741203_thumb.jpg

 

post-693-0-39852100-1440741214_thumb.jpg

 

I know this is not much progress to report. But, it is a solution to one issue on this model. I'm considering just leaving off the swivel guns since they'd need to look like this, but about half the size, and my understanding regarding swivel guns is that they were often stowed until needed. 

 

We'll see. First thing's first.

 

Clare

 

Edit: Forgot to mention that I went ahead and ordered the gun barrels from Chuck a couple days ago. Should be here tomorrow or Monday.

Edited by catopower

Clare Hess

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Okay you ship modelers out there, paper or otherwise, here's a question. The basic model is all paper: hull skeleton, hull planking, deck planking, deck furniture, etc. I know this is a "Card Model", but how much of it really has to be paper?

 

Already, the masts, gaffs, boom, yards, bowsprit on this model are all wooden dowels, and I'm already going down the path of using commercially available brass cannons. The reason for this is that I just don't think I can do a good job making such small cannon barrels, especially in paper. 

 

Now, I'm starting to look at the blocks, deadeyes and such and now wondering if I should just use Syren blocks and such, or if I should make them from paper. It's not difficult to make the paper blocks using the laser cut sets that Shipyard sells and I have enough on hand for this model. My initial plan was to make a paper model using the Shipyard kit as much as possible. But, I want the model to look nice too.

 

Still, I feel like I'm taking the easy way out to some degree here. I certainly don't have any qualms about using commercially available metal cannons on a wooden ship model, or metal blocks and deadeyes if they served the model well. 

 

Any thoughts?

 

Clare

Clare Hess

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How much indeed... I'm looking at some of the paper with the thought of scratch building them in wood.  For example, the Wolf.  It would cost a small fortune just for the plans...  Some go "all paper/card" and some use alternatives.   I daresay it's your choice, Clare.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Hi Mark,

 

Thanks for the quick reply! I appreciate the input, even if it is to tell me that I have to make the call myself! 

 

On HMS Wolf, not sure what you mean about a small fortune for the plans. The plans package is on Ages of Sail for just under $50. I have a set myself. They're beautiful plans. They don't have any "Model Details", but they have all the plan drawings in 1:72 and 1:48 scale to easily build in wood.

 

Clare

Clare Hess

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Clare,

It's real easy to spend $200 on plans.  $200 for the kit gets everything you'd need to scratch it from wood...including the details since they're all printed out or laser cut.  Just a matter of transferring them to wood. :)

 

As for how much to change, it really has to be your call.  Do it your way and dont' sweat what anyone else thinks because they don't have see the model everyday after it's finished.  That my take....

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Hi Mark,

 

Ah, I get your meaning now.

 

Okay, I'm not really trying to be a salesman here... But, what about the non laser-cut 1:96 scale paper model? You should easily be able to scale it up by 100% to get a 1/4" scale model and it's less than $40. It's all the same parts, just not laser cut. Of course, you don't get to use the cast resin figurehead that's included in the boxed kit, if that was your intent.

 

Ages of Sail should has them (I'm sure I've seen them on the shelves), the staff is just really bad about getting products online where people can actually buy them...

 

Clare

Clare Hess

He's a -> "HE"

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I dare say most models are multi-media affairs.  Even 'wood' models normally include lots of metal work and/or other materials.  They're still considered wooden models.  A paper model with wooden spars and blocks and metal guns is still largely a paper model.  And how much you choose to substitute depends in large degree on your comfort level.  I've seen unbelievable guns here on MSW made entirely out of paper, but if I personally have the choice, I'd probably go for metal guns, too.

 

Cheers!

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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I'm tempted, Clare...  Let's see where I am when and if I get the current project finished.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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 I know this is a "Card Model", but how much of it really has to be paper?

 

Clare

 

 

Some go "all paper/card" and some use alternatives.   I daresay it's your choice, Clare.

 

 

I dare say most models are multi-media affairs.  Even 'wood' models normally include lots of metal work and/or other materials.  They're still considered wooden models.  A paper model with wooden spars and blocks and metal guns is still largely a paper model.  And how much you choose to substitute depends in large degree on your comfort level.  I've seen unbelievable guns here on MSW made entirely out of paper, but if I personally have the choice, I'd probably go for metal guns, too.

 

Cheers!

 

Hi Clare,

 

I would go with the comments from Mark and Chris. Unless you are a purist, go with whatever is suitable to achieve the results you desire with-in your skill set.  

 

I am in no way a purist and ultimately will use or substitute with whatever I can as ultimately I want the model to be a decent representation of the ship regardless of how I got there.  I consider myself a rank amateur when it comes to modelling and have the same concerns as you when it comes to rolling tubes for barrels etc.

 

Looking forward to more progress shots.

 

Cheers

Slog

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

HM Bark Endeavour (First Wood, On Hold)

Borodino (1:200 Card, Current Build)

Admiral Nakhimov (card 1/200)

Mazur D-350 Artillery Tractor (1:25 Card) 

F-8 Crusader (1:48 Aircraft, Plastic)

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