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Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75

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Hi guys,


Thanks for looking in and the encouragement and ideas. It's much appreciated!


After lots of consideration on where to start, I decided to tackle the after cabin roof of all things. I thought I would make the deck planking the first job on the build. And then I was thinking about the camber the deck has and how the deck houses would be installed. With the absence of the deck planking I could assemble the various deck structures and sand the cambers into them. I will demonstrate later with a picture.


So, here goes....



I have decided to use as much of the material supplied with this 50 year old kit and build it much as Mr. Billing intended. The "pieces" are not laser cut but inked onto sheets of mahogany, which must be cut out manually. I have a modern day version of Billing's instructions for the current Cutty Sark kit which you can see in the photo. The instructions that came with the kit I have are minimal.



I prepped the various pieces for assembly. This entailed adding blocks of wood to the edges of the sides so that there would be more surface area to glue the pieces together. Also the cabin roof was a bit warped so I glued some "beams" on to straighten it out.



Here, the sides, front and rear coamings are added to the cabin roof, using high tech clothes pins. I have also purchased the clamps recently and they are awesome! My new favourite tool!

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The coamings of the cabin roof did not fit flush onto the aft deck so some modification was required. Here's how I did that..



Here you can see the gap between the deck and the coaming.



Then I laid a sheet of sandpaper on the deck and skidded the coaming fore and aft along the sandpaper to introduce the camber into the coaming assembly.



Now the coaming makes full contact with the deck.

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Time to dress up the cabin roof with some planking and trim...





The advantage of a 50 year old kit and its wood become apparent when you're looking for some planks with a curve along their horizontal length! I needed them to follow the fore and aft contour along the sides of the cabin top.





Here the deck planking is being installed along with the "caulking".



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 Hello Peter ,  thanks for alerting me to your build. As always you will manage to create a silk purse out of a sows ear. Thanks for sharing.


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Contrary to popular belief, I am still involved in model boat building. I took a long break over the summer months, and then once I got going again, held off posting until I had something to show.


I have decided to alter my construction order somewhat. In the past, the decking and hull planking were the first orders of business, once the bulkheads were attached to the keel. With this build I decided to complete the deck houses and hatchways first. This is because I have access to so much and the bulwarks and hull planks are not in the way. Once these are completed and the deck furniture is prepped, I will then plank the decks and then the hull.


Here then are some fruits of labour. First of all, I was to discover that the 50 year old wood is not as moist and pliable as it once was. I am trying to use as much of the original kit as possible, only because this is what Mr. Billing provided. However, I soon learned that this might not be possible as the photos show. The wood was only too eager to split and crack.





These are the original sheets provided with the outlines of the deck house components inked on.





Because there was so much flex involved along the grain of the wood, I suspected that the sheet might split. Therefore a couple of battens were glued to the edges of the sheet to prevent it from doing so. A waste of time and glue as it turned out...





I then attempted to cut out the panels and include the 3D aspect of the wood panelling. It didn't take long to realize that the exercise was hopeless. But hey, I had to try.

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Plan B. I decided to fabricate the deck houses using plywood bulkheads, but utilise the printed deckhouse tops, as there was not issue with them. Enter the MicroMark table saw. It sure was handy cutting the panels used for the sides of the deck houses. In the past, I used a ruler and Xacto knives. Not the best...


















Stay tuned, more tomorrow.







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The hatches were also constructed along with the deck houses. These were pretty simple to construct as can be seen by the photos.







I dispensed with using the printed "hatch covers" and made my own hatch boards.







I then painted the hatch boards and booby hatch top before adding some trim to simulate coamings.

Edited by petervisser

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Hi Peter,

Nice work and nice recovery regarding the old wood components.



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Nice neat work peter will enjoy following this


Hof I also came across you cutty sark today excellent build

This ship is really starting to grow on me and I'm geating a real feel for it perhaps a future build for me

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I didn't put a like to the results of your trying to cut out the designs.......I can sympathize with you......I know what petrified wood cuts like  ;)   but after seeing what you did........I don't feel so bad for you........you did a far better job,  IMHO!   very nicely done.....the rest of your structures look splendid as well.


can't wait till you do more  ;)

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Thanks guys for the encouraging comments. They have not gone unnoticed.


Work resumed in the ole dockyard this past week. It was spent building more components of the deck furniture in the forecastle area of the ship. I noticed that although the old kit included the paint locker and pig sty under the fo'csle deck, the modern instructions don't include them. Oh well, I thought I would build them anyway. there were some interesting angles and I built them somewhat oversize on the outboard sides, so they could be trimmed just before the hull planking is installed. Here then are some progress pictures...












I measured the angles for the various sides first which could then be transferred directly to the little table saw I have. The square stock would then be used as a suitable backing for the bulkheads faces.


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The heads which attach to the sty and paint locker were then constructed. Billing supply small plugs that can then be faced with a suitable veneer. I have lots of scrap wood for that. Again, they are built slightly oversize on the outboard side for later trimage...











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I never would have guessed when I started this hobby that I would ever have to build chicken coops for a model I was constructing. But hey, this hobby takes us down many roads and the birds have to go somewhere I guess... The Billing kit does include these little sub-assemblies, but again they are printed on an ancient sheet of mahogany and so I had to go with Plan B in assembling them. Here's how I did it...












They were actually fun to build and turned out ok. I can't wait to see them installed on the model.



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Here is the collection of deck furniture that wa assembled this week. I have yet to put some varathane on everything. I am waiting to finish the companionway before I do that. The pig sty and paint locker aren't that detailed. Because they are hidden under the fo'csle deck, I didn't spend alot of time detailing them.





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As mentioned earlier, I have decided to get as much prep work done while there is no deck or hull planking. This makes everything easier to access. So the next operation was to step the masts. This was a bit of a nail biter, because everything had to be gotten right the first time. I am happy to say that it did for the mizzen and main mast. However things went sideways with the foremast because there wasn't enough clearance under the drill bit when the model was positioned on the drill press table. Hence the collars at the base of the masts to hide the "whoops" around the base of the foremast.

 I managed to clamp the model on the drill press and adjust the model transversely and adjust the drill press table longitudinally to allow for the rake. I found the rakes for the masts in Longridge's book "The Cutty Sark" and used a digital protractor I purchased from Lee Valley. With everything in place and securely clamped I simply had to turn on the drill. As mentioned this worked for the main and mizzen masts. The foremast did not work so well, and I have to confess there was some foul language used.

At any rate, the mast collars on the deck hid any messy hole drilling and all is well in my little world. Here are some pics of the progress...





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